Templot Plug Track Developments

[Hayfield1]

I had a little project going on from before the last update, had I known and waited it would have made the build much easier



We have been saying Templot 3D at the moment, well that is true for those with basic skills, but earlier in the year Martin in one of our Zoom meetings showed us a workaround to use until the obtuse chairs have been designed, which hopefully are weeks away not months away

Anyway if you build a 2D plan (its automated so easy to accomplish) of any diamond then move it into Templot 5 and then apply the 3D program, the two ends will come out fine but the center timbers will have no chairs on them, the workaround involves adding a thing called partial templates. But I will not either bore ot confuse everyone



Testing time under power and both RTR and kit built locos run through fine



Templot goes scenic, in that we can easily print chairs without plugs, these chairs have had the keys removed



Jumbled up covering most angles

 

[simond]

Another step forward!

I do think a resin printer would make a nicer job of those loose chairs.

We have an Ulitmaker at work, which we use for various “fag packet size” parts. I am hoping to get an FDM printer at some point, but at this point (sorry) I haven’t tried printing small things such as chairs using FDM, though as you know I’ve done them using resin.

Assuming resin chairs, I’m not sure what would be the appropriate adhesive.

best
Simon

 

[Dog Star]

Assuming resin chairs, I’m not sure what would be the appropriate adhesive.

Which is one reason why I asked about opinions relating to resin sleepers printed with chairs.

BTW - I stick FNG resin chairs to plywood sleepers with Loctite super glue.

 

[simond]

I’d expect resin sleeper to curl up a bit. I use a raft to hold a batch of parts like lamps or finials when printing, typically a couple of mm thick, and a few mm wide, so sleeper section more or less, and they always curl up after a few days.

Long thin things seem to print best on end, but offset lumps like chairs are likely to cause them to print with some distortion.

I'm inclined to go down the FDM route, as the parts that we print at work don’t seem to suffer in that way.

 

[magmouse]

I'm inclined to go down the FDM route, as the parts that we print at work don’t seem to suffer in that way.

Having recently got an FDM printer (Bambu A1 Mini), I tried printing a section of COT sleepers and chairs just to see how it would come out. A few weeks later and there is no sign of warping or distortion. I would expect that - FDM printing involves heating plastic until it melts, then letting it set again, so no risk of long term chemical changes.

For me, I would rather have wood for the sleepers, whether laser cut or in individual strips. There are more options for colouring them (dyes as well as paints), and the FDM printed sleepers have very slightly rounded corners, which means they don't look quite crisp. I have nothing against the COT and Plug Track projects - I think they are great additions to the possible ways of making track, and are opening up the possibility of proper track geometry via Templot to more people.

Nick.

 

[simond]

Nick,

thanks for that insight. I have a laser and wooden sleepers are attractive, so plug track is a distinct possibility, but I’d like to try COT too.

the Ultimaker at work is showing signs of nearing the end of its useful life (it self-disembowelled two nights ago, since rebuilt and working, but why???) and Bambu are high on the potential replacement list - so any feedback about your machine is welcome.

cheers
Simon

 

[magmouse]

so any feedback about your machine is welcome.

The Bambu lived up to the company's reputation for being 'plug and play', unlike many other printers, according to reviews and online discussion. Clearly other people get excellent results from other makes of printer, so it isn't a black-and-white situation, but I was keen to get something that 'just works' while I learn about 3DP - I don't need another hobby in the form of printer tweeking.

My son runs a product design business in Sheffield, and he has been moving more and more to the larger Bambu machines for his prototyping and short-run manufacturing. Again, the benefit is less time futzing with the machine, and more time getting stuff printed.

Having said all that, I get the impression Bambu's relatively recent entry into the market is making other manufacturers up their game, so the competition should be good for end users. In other words, do look at other products, but for me the Bambu was the right starting machine - not the very cheapest, but at a very reasonable price.

Possibly the main downside from a commercial perspective is that the easiest way to send a job from the slicer software to the printer is via Bambu's cloud servers, which may be an issue for commercially sensitive work. You can put the stl file on a memory card and stick it in the printer, but that is not ideal in a production environment. For home use, I'm not worried - if someone wants to hack the Bambu servers and steal my design for a 7mm scale auto trailer bench seat, they're welcome.

HTH

Nick.

 

[Hayfield1]

Another step forward!

I do think a resin printer would make a nicer job of those loose chairs.

We have an Ulitmaker at work, which we use for various “fag packet size” parts. I am hoping to get an FDM printer at some point, but at this point (sorry) I haven’t tried printing small things such as chairs using FDM, though as you know I’ve done them using resin.

Assuming resin chairs, I’m not sure what would be the appropriate adhesive.

best
Simon

Simon

We use the same file in Templot for chairs whether they are to be printed in resin or FDM (the label still states resin chairs), since my post one of the Templot club members has shared files for both 4 & 7mm chairs with out bolts, freely available on Templot club and I think for both resin or FDM,

As for the Neptune 4 printers they are at a reduced price at the moment and you can see the quality of prints. For the likes of myself I benefit from Martins tweaks to the print files to maximize Templot 3D prints

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Still selling for £172, £152 if you don't mind an opened box

If you intend to make a few turnouts then its self funding, certainly in 7mm scale COT track / FDM printing is still revealing its versatility

 

[Paul_H]

Bambu are high on the potential replacement list - so any feedback about your machine is welcome.

Another vote of confidence from here for Bambu, in my case an A1*. Problem free and great prints straight out of the box. The supporting software (Bambu Studio) is a refined version of Orca and has a great set of filament presets which together with it's automatic flow calibration means no faffing with dozens of test prints.
Of particular interest to modellers is the ease of swapping nozzles. The 0.2 nozzle is capable of decent fine work. Not as good as resin, but worth the extra wait over a 0.4.

Unless you're really stuck for space, go for the A1, not A1 mini, the extra build volume would be very beneficial for track work.

 

[simond]

Nick,

thanks, that’s very helpful. We have the Ultimaker on the intranet, but tend to use memory sticks (old habits).

Having to use some dubious cloud server otherwhere is an absolute no from me, and I imagine my IT manager too!

(I haven’t even enabled the internet features of the robot vacuum cleaner, I have suspicions that some people call me paranoid )

Following further investigation, by the aforementioned IT manager, we have established that the Bambu printers will do "LAN Only" mode so that's no longer a concern.

Paul

thanks also - I suspect we will get a P1 of some sort - tbd when the Production Manager returns from his hols next week.

ta
Simon

 

[Hayfield1]

Templot COT track has taken another step in making track building much easier for the average modeler.

The common crossings have been altered by printing three outer chair jaws separately making fitting the wing rails very much easier, simply carefully slide the wing rails into position.



Then glue the loose chairs in place, good looking 1 piece wing rails with curved knuckles

Turnouts now can be printed as an easy to assemble kit,
If required easy to use filing jigs can also be printed

It is just as easy to print and build a bespoke turnout as a straight one

Best of all you end up with a turnout visually only previously available by either scratch building or ordering one to be professionally built.



I also finished off the wiring yesterday and the crossing ran without all the jump leads. The wiring is very simple, but as I have used 8 plastic fishplates a few extra joins are required. Unlike the turnouts doth the design of the print files and build process are a lot more difficult. Not one for the casual Templot user yet (will be once the obtuse (K) crossing chairs have been designed and implemented into the system. But simply shows us what is required and for the users what in the future will be available.

What's next, I think both a test track then a cameo layout.

Perhaps making the odd print available simply to see if they are as easy to build as we think

 

[Hayfield1]

My current project with Plug track is to build an 0 gauge test track, equally to assist me in loco building (which I hope to get back into this weekend and obviously trial the system

Where Templot 3D is at the moment is debatable and Martins worse fears is for those who are not used to Templot getting disappointed with both the way it currently works and its current limitations. Which is fair comment, so treat my experiments as my experiments and I am happy to deal with any questions through this thread

Recently I have both printed the updated format for turnouts, which will be the starting place for my test track and my latest print is for an A5 turnout which may in turn be of use in a small cameo I plan to build later in the year

Anyway what I think has been a boon in track building in any scale are the filing jigs Templot produces



Here is the unassembled 1 in 5 vee crossing angle for code 125 bullhead rail, these are a very easy tool to use especially in 7mm scale where the rails are so big and need a lot of filing.



This is a jig to file the backs of an A switch, I could never get what I believed was good results from the society jig I had for 4mm scale.

Again these jigs are so easy to use, a very clever design concept. Easy to use and reusable for a few times



Just to remind you the two halves are connected to each other and either fitted into a vice or clamped on to the bench. At the same time the rail is threaded through the slot

These jigs can be used in whatever building method used.

Anyway my test track is on the way