spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Little bit more progress:
Wantage Tramway No.5
- Thread starter spikey faz
- Start date
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
As you can see my modelling skills are not up there with the best, but I'm finding it quite enjoyable and therapeutic.
I have given up on trying to engineer the springing for the self-contained buffers as I lack microscopic eyes and necessary skills!
Will have to rely on a bit of springy rubber instead.
Mike
I have given up on trying to engineer the springing for the self-contained buffers as I lack microscopic eyes and necessary skills!
Will have to rely on a bit of springy rubber instead.Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Hi Ade
Please do resurrect your project. I'll be interested to see how you get on. One thing I've discovered is that when it comes to soldering it is handy to have some extra heat! I can't remember when I last used my 20 watt iron - I use my 100 watt iron all the time. It's probably a bit of an overkill with maybe 50-80 watts being optimal.
All the best
Mike
AdeMoore
Western Thunderer
Hi Mike, I was about to have a go at lunch hour at work now I’ve finished my Airfix wagons! As home spare time is on Meldon at present. Then Covid19 hit and put an end to that. So I’m sure come the end of this and back to work that will happen.
The iron I do know I need one been looking at DCC concepts dear but probably worth it?
Impressed by your piercing saw, I do need one of those too what was the source of that one please?
Looking forward to more from your build nice work.
Cheers.
adrian
Flying Squad
I think I got mine from Cookson Knew Concepts | Jewellery Tools – Cooksongold
Although to be honest I'm still a little ambivalent towards it. It's a nicely balanced saw but sometimes I wonder if it is a little "too" rigid. When a blade snags from time to time as they do I usually end up snapping the blade. Whereas my trusty old Eclipse Fixed Saw Frame, Eclipse 3 has that little bit of give to the frame. I certainly seem to snap fewer blades using the eclipse compared to the Knew Concepts saw.
Peter Cross
Western Thunderer
The saw blade normally snags because the teeth are further apart than the thickness of the material.
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
No broken blades so far....
simond
Western Thunderer
My “peg” has been upgraded by the addition of some abrasive paper to the upper surface; it reduces the tendency of the metal to slip, and thus is another step in the avoidance of broken blades. It seems to help, though I can’t quantify the value of it.
However, I don’t have the rather natty “U” shaped recess on the side. Is it useful?
cheers
Simon
However, I don’t have the rather natty “U” shaped recess on the side. Is it useful?
cheers
Simon
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Hi Simon
Interesting tip about the abrasive paper/ non-slip surface. I might try that.
I haven't used the 'U ' shaped recess on the peg yet, so can't vouch for its usefulness.
Mike
Interesting tip about the abrasive paper/ non-slip surface. I might try that.
I haven't used the 'U ' shaped recess on the peg yet, so can't vouch for its usefulness.
Mike
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
I subscribe to the abrasive paper on the top of the peg. In fact it was probably Simon who suggested it to me.
I use a 200/250 grit emery paper fixed with double sided tape but I guess that's a personal choice.
In fact, for possibly the first time ever I didn't break a single blade during the building of the Q1. I changed the blade only when I realised that there was no cutting occurring, just friction heating the saw blade and the brass! The new blade in the frame was a revelation! So far, notwithstanding the complexities of the "King Arthur" I've broken only one, and that was down to incompetence.
Brian
I use a 200/250 grit emery paper fixed with double sided tape but I guess that's a personal choice.In fact, for possibly the first time ever I didn't break a single blade during the building of the Q1. I changed the blade only when I realised that there was no cutting occurring, just friction heating the saw blade and the brass! The new blade in the frame was a revelation! So far, notwithstanding the complexities of the "King Arthur" I've broken only one, and that was down to incompetence.
Brian
John57sharp
Western Thunderer
Looking very good so far. I’m following with great interest!
John
John
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Just placed the boiler, smokebox and cab sheets in position - not soldered yet. So far there doesn't appear to be any major alignment issues, so the club-hammer can stay in its box!
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
P A D
Western Thunderer
Hi Mike,
An interesting little prototype and very nicely built. You seem to be posting one image at a time or 2 or 3 one after the other in separate posts. Is that by choice or are you not aware you can load and post up to 15 images per post?
As to a 100watt iron being over kill, no reason not to use it. I got by with a 50 watt Antex TCS for about 30 years building 7mm kits in brass and nickel silver, but recently moved up to a 65 watt Hakko FX 888d. It's not got the power of the Ersa 80 watt favoured by many, but I'm very impressed so far. All things considered, I nearly went for the Ersa, but read lots of good things about the Hakko and to be honest, the quirky appearance of the station appealed to me.
Cheers,
Peter
An interesting little prototype and very nicely built. You seem to be posting one image at a time or 2 or 3 one after the other in separate posts. Is that by choice or are you not aware you can load and post up to 15 images per post?
As to a 100watt iron being over kill, no reason not to use it. I got by with a 50 watt Antex TCS for about 30 years building 7mm kits in brass and nickel silver, but recently moved up to a 65 watt Hakko FX 888d. It's not got the power of the Ersa 80 watt favoured by many, but I'm very impressed so far. All things considered, I nearly went for the Ersa, but read lots of good things about the Hakko and to be honest, the quirky appearance of the station appealed to me.
Cheers,
Peter
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
Hi Peter
Working off a Kindle is a bit fiddly sometimes and I tend to just prod the screen and hope for the best! I shall certainly try loading multiple photos in one go in future.
I think my 100 watter iron is probably a bit to powerful at times as the solder can literally boil away! I like the look of the soldering stations, especially as I reckon 80 watts would be perfect for my needs. Just need a lottery win to fund it.
Mike
spikey faz
Western Thunderer
The MRJ article advocates soldering the chimney on to the somebody using a small blowtorch. I don't have a blowtorch and in any case I prefer to bolt the chimney on as this allows small adjustments to be made. Can then solder it up solid later without fear of disturbing the position.
I soldered a brass bush in the bottom of the chimney to allow a free floating bolt to protrude without pulling all the way through. There's a captive nut soldered into the smokebox.
Mike
I soldered a brass bush in the bottom of the chimney to allow a free floating bolt to protrude without pulling all the way through. There's a captive nut soldered into the smokebox.
Mike