7mmMick's Wagon Workbench - A BV for Love Lane + 3 for me

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Finally this is where I have left the build for now as the next job is to fit all the running gear. And a picture of what evergreen I have used for the end stanchions;

2014_0814MickIphone0018.JPG2014_0814MickIphone0017.JPG

Not great photo's I know but hopefully it'll all be dry enough tonight to crack on a bit,

ATB Mick
 

Railwaymaniac

Western Thunderer
What a wonderful place WT is ! :)

A treatise on figure painting and now a treatise on scratch-building a wagon, and all in one weekend :thumbs: :bowdown: :bowdown: :thumbs:

Ian
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Thanks everyone, should have an update here Tuesday or Wednesday as the kids will be back at school and modelling will re-commence. There has been a little progress and a slight issue, which I will report then. I do love WT Ian and the thread on figures has been great and a lot of use to me,

ATB Mick
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
I know JB, just you wait when baby JB arrives, there'll be zero modelling going on :)) that said I could have finished it ages ago if I'd have got my fingure out! Here she on a quick I-phone pic, No.1 shelf queen, tarnished and neglected. However not forgotten as I'm hoping to bend Steph's ear at the weekend as to a gear box solution,

image.jpg

ATB Mick
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
And Breath.................. And relax........................The kids are back at school:D

So without further a do back to the bench and on with the Hickleton 7 plank. I left the last update with a trial fitted under frame and was ready to crack on but having left the body overnight the 'bowing' had seemed to shrink back a bit so I thought I would have another go and leave it in the boiling water a bit longer this time........

No it didn't all melt, the bowing effect was increased slightly and has until now lasted so i'm happy with that. However it has blown the 10thou corner plates. Where they were not glued they seem to have blown slightly. I'm not sure you can tell from the pictures but in any case I'm going to try and hack them off and redo them, that's unless anyone can offer further advice as I really don't fancy doing it.

2014_0902MickIphone0010.JPG

In addition to this work I have dressed back the end stanchions but have yet to mark and file the profile. To the bottom end I have added some MMP bling (not finished but nearly) which I had built up in stock.

2014_0902MickIphone0007.JPG

W-irons and wheels have been Casey Gun Blued and some exactoscale axle boxes thrown in for good measure. Now this is fitted I can accurately add the bolt detail to the solebars in line with the W-irons etc. Finally an underside picture showing the removable units and the beginnings of the frame bracing, still some to fit;

2014_0902MickIphone0009.JPG

Now off to do some washing to kid the wife I haven't been on the bench all morning :thumbs:Hopefully an update to follow tomorrow?

ATB Mick
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
While i'm on can anyone help with this livery please?

Atkinson and Prickett Cropped.JPG
Not a great scan of the picture I know but you it shows all you need to know. I have three pictures like this and would like to replicate the livery on my own models, with my usual addition of grime and a 'P' number. However I'm not sure how long the livery lasted ? On the three pictures I have are the inscription 'Empty to Maltby Main Colliery' and 'Empty to Upton Main Colliery' which is right up my street ( so to speak ). So could the livery have lasted until 1950 of was it taken over by the more generic ' Maltby ' as per other smaller companies before the war and then never have survived post war? Any historical help here would be greatly appreciated,

ATB Mick
 

Overseer

Western Thunderer
No it didn't all melt, the bowing effect was increased slightly and has until now lasted so i'm happy with that. However it has blown the 10thou corner plates. Where they were not glued they seem to have blown slightly. I'm not sure you can tell from the pictures but in any case I'm going to try and hack them off and redo them, that's unless anyone can offer further advice as I really don't fancy doing it.



ATB Mick

Don't hack off the corner plates, just apply more solvent either through the plank grooves or make small holes and apply some pressure to readhere the corner plates. 10 thou is a bit thick for the corner plates so you can sand them flat again and lose a bit of thickness at the same time.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Mick,

As a source of localised heat, try playing a hair dryer onto the body side. Safer than dunking a body in a H&S hazard.

regards, Graham
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Don't hack off the corner plates, just apply more solvent either through the plank grooves or make small holes and apply some pressure to readhere the corner plates. 10 thou is a bit thick for the corner plates so you can sand them flat again and lose a bit of thickness at the same time.

Great stuff, I'll give it a go, anything to save hacking them off. Do you suggest a thinner material for the corner plates ?

Mick
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Mick,

As a source of localised heat, try playing a hair dryer onto the body side. Safer than dunking a body in a H&S hazard.

regards, Graham

Not a bad idea Graham, I only went with the near boiling water method as I'm following the John Hayes book. The hair dryer could work though and as you say has to be safer and more controllable ?

ATB Mick
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
The hair dryer could work though and as you say has to be safer and more controllable ?
Mick,

I started using a hairdryer when I discovered what happens to a JLTRT carriage underframe when immersed in hot water, or rather what happens when trying to cool the underframe. The heat from the water causes the moulding to become floppy and removing the item from the tray produced a banana. OK, I got the underframe back to shape by more hot water, waiting for the underframe to relax and then adding copious quantities of cold water to the tray (done in the bath because the amount of cold water required to lower the water temperature was greater than the tray volume).

Nowadays I assemble the body "dry" and then play the hair dryer until the moulding relaxes... tighten the fixing bolts a bit and heat again. Repeat as required.
 

Tappa

Western Thunderer
Mick,

Re your wagon query, Dave Larkin is probably the person who would know if any got renumbered with a P number as he is currently attempting to catalogue all P fleet numbers. However, my 1958 Reduction of Wagon Fleet published by British Transport Commission still lists three Atkinson & Prickett Ltd wagons allegedly carrying original numbers. Numbers listed are 874, 1024 & 1259 in traffic somewhere. Logic says that if they are listed to be condemned on sight, they must exist. However, I wouldn't like to say how accurate the list was or how the list came to be put together.
Interestingly, the same book also lists six Maltby wagons still with original numbers.
As an additional note, Atkinson & Prickett still exist in Hull. Maybe worth an enquiry to see if they have anything in their archives?
Jeff
 

Overseer

Western Thunderer
Great stuff, I'll give it a go, anything to save hacking them off. Do you suggest a thinner material for the corner plates ?

Mick
Yes, I use 5 thou styrene. As far as I know it is only available from Evergreen. As well as being close to prototype thickness it matches the thickness of the moulded corner plates on Slaters kits well. The 5 thou styrene does tend to sag into grooves etc after solvent is applied so either fill the grooves with slivers of styrene and file flat before applying the corner plates, or use filler afterwards.
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Mick,

Re your wagon query, Dave Larkin is probably the person who would know if any got renumbered with a P number as he is currently attempting to catalogue all P fleet numbers. However, my 1958 Reduction of Wagon Fleet published by British Transport Commission still lists three Atkinson & Prickett Ltd wagons allegedly carrying original numbers. Numbers listed are 874, 1024 & 1259 in traffic somewhere. Logic says that if they are listed to be condemned on sight, they must exist. However, I wouldn't like to say how accurate the list was or how the list came to be put together.
Interestingly, the same book also lists six Maltby wagons still with original numbers.
As an additional note, Atkinson & Prickett still exist in Hull. Maybe worth an enquiry to see if they have anything in their archives?
Jeff

Cheers Jeff,

I didn't know they were still up and running, however after reading this a PM from Dog Star explained the company history and details of their wagon fleet. In short it seems the livery above would have lasted until pre war days so I can probably get away with it. I'll send an email off to Dave Larkin as well as he is a wealth of knowledge as you say and he has helped out in the past.

Mick,

There's a description of a photograph of an Atkinson & Prickett wagon in the HMRS archive which gives details of the livery

http://www.hmrs.org.uk/photograph-collection/photoinfo.php?id=ACK311

Jim.

Thanks for the link Jim, interesting as it lists the main body colour a grey but in my minds we I pictured red oxide? Thanks for the help everyone the majority of the pieces of the puzzle are now in place,

ATB Mick
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Yes, I use 5 thou styrene. As far as I know it is only available from Evergreen. As well as being close to prototype thickness it matches the thickness of the moulded corner plates on Slaters kits well. The 5 thou styrene does tend to sag into grooves etc after solvent is applied so either fill the grooves with slivers of styrene and file flat before applying the corner plates, or use filler afterwards.

Great stuff, I'll pick some 5thou up at Telford at the weekend. Would this do for the washer plates as well. It may be an optical illusion in some pictures but the washer plates on the side doors seem thicker than the other washer plates on the outside of the body? Is this the case ?

Cheers Mick
 

Overseer

Western Thunderer
Great stuff, I'll pick some 5thou up at Telford at the weekend. Would this do for the washer plates as well. It may be an optical illusion in some pictures but the washer plates on the side doors seem thicker than the other washer plates on the outside of the body? Is this the case ?

Cheers Mick
The washer plates on the doors are inside so use the 5 thou there. The external 'straps' on the doors are the hinges and they are usually tapered, so thicker at the bottom than the top. I normally file down from 15 or 20 thou to form the hinges. The original hinges were forged iron so often taper slightly in elevation as well. I think they show in the photos in the 16 ton NBR wagon and scratch building in styrene threads last year. Reminds me they are still in raw plastic and need finishing.
 
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