dibateg
Western Thunderer
Thanks for the kind comments, I blame Mr Lambert for the fanatical cleaning up!
I've been tootling away on the tender for a week or two. Getting the tender sides straight took a little effort, as they seem to bow towards the half etch. Some determined rolling with a bar on on the carpet resolved that. I didn't like the white metal casting over the coal doors, so I fabricated up a brass replacement. I'm also not sure the coal space is right, the floor is a flat slope down towards the coal door, Johnson style, I've a feeling it should be a hopper shape, so the coal will be above that level. I took the hinges off the LHS of the coal doors and fabricated some locking bars up from scratch etch as the etched representation was a little flat looking. Redundant Sidelines etched trussing was ideal for making the coal bunker re-inforcing plate backings, an omission from the kit.
It pays to keep all those left over etches!
I've been tootling away on the tender for a week or two. Getting the tender sides straight took a little effort, as they seem to bow towards the half etch. Some determined rolling with a bar on on the carpet resolved that. I didn't like the white metal casting over the coal doors, so I fabricated up a brass replacement. I'm also not sure the coal space is right, the floor is a flat slope down towards the coal door, Johnson style, I've a feeling it should be a hopper shape, so the coal will be above that level. I took the hinges off the LHS of the coal doors and fabricated some locking bars up from scratch etch as the etched representation was a little flat looking. Redundant Sidelines etched trussing was ideal for making the coal bunker re-inforcing plate backings, an omission from the kit.
It pays to keep all those left over etches!
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
I must admit I never throw any of the etched bits away.
But be careful you don't get too carried away hoarding - a guy who I know at work has just had the first floor of his house collapse with him in bed and is now in hospital being treated for hypothermia. This was caused by his mania for hoarding things and he just overloaded his upper floor. Have a look at some of the things that he hoarded.
dibateg
Western Thunderer
One of my friends who builds kits on a comission basis, saves the brass up and gets it weighed in at the local scrappie for cash! Perhaps railway modellers are natural hoarders, fortunately most my hoarded stuff is in athe railway room, which is a seperate building - single storey!
Cheers
Tony
Cheers
Tony
dibateg
Western Thunderer
After seeing Andy Beatons delightful Midland 4-4-0 with it's full inside working motion, I felt somewhat obliged to do the same on my 2P. So an order was duly placed with Mr Griffin. Now the tender is finished I have back tracked a little to ensure the crank axle can be accomodated in the frames. Following that work, I 've now started on the crack axle, and a rainy lunchtime has given me opportunity to drill 0.7mm through the crank webs and axles to provide a positive position for them. It took 3 drills as even the soft steel seems to take the edge of the drills pretty quickly. The next step is to clean up and check the fit of the eccentrics, before chemically blackening them, so as they wont pick up any solder when the whole lot is put in front of the blow torch to solder up.....
28ten
Guv'nor
Is that a Heyside special?
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
This is a delightful photograph of Nutmeg considering the truth of the old saying "if you build a better mousetrap..." although in this case Nutmeg might just be thinking "I can see the bit that clobbers the mouse - just where do I put the cheese?
regards, Graham
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Not quite as neat as work by Colin the eastsidepilot, but a couple of hours work has seen the crank axle made up. I need to thank Dikitriki for showing me how do do it the first time for my 4F. So with a little more cleaning up to do - though this is pretty hidden by those 6'9" wheels, so it won't be immaculate:-
dibateg
Western Thunderer
A rainy day on call is always a good opportunity to make progress. I botched the connecting rods by making them to short, so after getting replacements, they ar enow fitted.. Most of the inside motion cannot be seen, but is is nice to see the crossheads working. So todays effort has been those seemingly endless minor tasks to complete a chassis, working motion with no tight spots, pick ups not dragging. Coupling rods prepared. Reverse curve test to get it to this stage:-
dibateg
Western Thunderer
The 2P is awaiting testing, so I've been doing battle with a Pow Sides 14t tank wagon. Not the easiest of kits and when it came to the tank I almost gave up as the resin one in the kit had a slight taper to it. Maybe I should have sent it back, but I went on a hunt for some suitable size plastic pipe in all our junk, but to no avail. Then I remembered that the MMP tanks have a brass barrel, so why not this one. There wasn't any scrap sheet big enough to do the whole tank, so I made up 3 rings in the same manner as the prototype.
So the rings after passing through the rolling bars:-
And a test fit to the wagon:-
So the rings after passing through the rolling bars:-
And a test fit to the wagon:-
7mmMick
Western Thunderer
Great stuff Tony. I think I prefer the brass tank in any case. I will watch closely as at some point I need to put some serious research into tank wagons and especially Air Ministry types built in the 40's. My planned layout will have a train worked block load from the refineries at Saltend and your build of this Pow sides kit is a great place for me to start,
ATB Mick
ATB Mick
S
SteveO
Guest
Likewise, I'm really looking forward to see this develop. Eventually I'll need 3 or 4 milk tanks and was holding off the plastic kits. Are all the Powsides kits brass underframes?
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Yes - the underframe is brass, but it does'nt fit quite a well as an MMP ( Yes I know I've been spoilt ). The brakes were no where near the wheels, so I cut them apart and soldered in a washer to reconnect them to the cross shaft, remounting them further apart. I also used used Ambis brake levers and guards as I didn't like the Pow Sides ones.
Apart from that the whitemetal castings are quite tidy, but I didn't find the discharge pipe in the kit and scratchbuilt my own.
Best Regards
Tony
Apart from that the whitemetal castings are quite tidy, but I didn't find the discharge pipe in the kit and scratchbuilt my own.
Best Regards
Tony
S
SteveO
Guest
Thanks Tony. Powsides don't have the best reputation but I like the all-brass (and WM) underframe and much prefer it to the plastic ones on the Slaters tanks. Your tank looks superb so far!
I'm after your ABS wagon on RMW Marketplace, by the way (Nth Degree). If you have any others and want to swap them for a Slaters BR Brake Van, I'm all ears.
Cheers, Steve
I'm after your ABS wagon on RMW Marketplace, by the way (Nth Degree). If you have any others and want to swap them for a Slaters BR Brake Van, I'm all ears.
Cheers, Steve
Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
I would be interested if anyone has experience of the Powsides Milk Tanks too, as the only finished ones I've seen look a bit rough & ready TBH compared to the Slaters Tanks, but they do some of the different diagrams.
Apologies to Tony for wondering off topic!
