timbowales
Western Thunderer
It's probably more to do with elf'n'safety as a lot of the old ingredients that actually worked have been found to be bad for the continuation of the human race.......
Hayfields 7mm 3D Printed Turnouts
- Thread starter Hayfield1
- Start date
simond
Western Thunderer
True. You might use Gorilla glue at home, but you’d think twice about using it at work…
Hayfield1
Western Thunderer
I have never used any Gorilla glue products, but please explain your comment further please
Stephen Freeman
Western Thunderer
efoam supply it in various thicknesses right up to 100mms! though for us the 5mm thickness is probably the best option. Experience suggests that the self-adhesive version is perfectly adequate. Perhaps more important to choose the right hardness EFP30. I have had a quick look but cannot find it on C&L any more, I think someone (possibly Brian Lewis) may have mentioned he got it from Norman Solomon at one time.
Stephen Freeman
Western Thunderer
Perhaps it doesn't smell as bad?
timbowales
Western Thunderer
If it doesn't smell as bad then there's a good chance something, most likely whatever makes the old version work so well, has been replaced by a less potent ingredient
simond
Western Thunderer
you use a drop for a job at home, fine. The thought of it being used as a continuous process, hence ongoing exposure, gives my H&S team the eeby jeebies
adrian
Flying Squad
As my better half has a very strong latex allergy Copydex is extremely unpopular in our household. For a similar contact adhesive I now use the Soudal Neoprene contact adhesive, you can get it easily in liquid or gel form. For sticking the foam then I find the gel a lot easier to use than the liquid form.
Back to the 3D printing track - great to see the developments and following when I can. I've simply not had time to check out the Templot Club updates recently but perhaps you know the answer. I was thinking about this sort of development and potential. If you are printing the track base then for curves can Templot automatically factor in the inclination for super-elevation? So the sleeper base can be printed slighter thicker on the outside than the inside and include the graduation from that to straight and level.
Could I respectfully ask people not to use terms like "Gorilla Glue" as it is really unhelpful! "Gorrilla" is a (US) brand - it is not a type of glue. They retail several types - including what we know as PVA, plus "Aliphatic Resin" (which is a modified PVA) but are best known for being early in the field with moisture-setting polyester glue (the "Original" in Simon's link). They also make a heavy duty double sided tape which is really handy for mounting almost anything!! So when 'we' say "Gorilla Glue" 'we' might know exactly what 'we' mean but everyone else has a different idea in their head! I discovered this the hard way when I recommended "Gorilla Glue" to a friend - I meant Polyester, they used PVA - "Gorilla" PVA - but useless for the intended task!
Copydex is also a brand of course but since (as far as I know) they only make latex glue we are reasonably safe - until someone buys them up and mis-uses the brand name ... I used Copydex on my first "proper" layout in 1968 because the experts of the day said "use white glue" and Copydex was white. Only later did I discover they actually meant PVA ... ... Big disadvantage with Copydex is that it has a limited shelf life and it stinks when it goes off! It also leaves a very elastic 'skin' when it sets - if you try to drill through it, it wraps round the drill bit and pulls up everything in a 50mm radius - then breaks the bit ... ...
Copydex is also a brand of course but since (as far as I know) they only make latex glue we are reasonably safe - until someone buys them up and mis-uses the brand name ... I used Copydex on my first "proper" layout in 1968 because the experts of the day said "use white glue" and Copydex was white. Only later did I discover they actually meant PVA ... ... Big disadvantage with Copydex is that it has a limited shelf life and it stinks when it goes off! It also leaves a very elastic 'skin' when it sets - if you try to drill through it, it wraps round the drill bit and pulls up everything in a 50mm radius - then breaks the bit ... ...
jonte
Western Thunderer
That’s interesting to know, Adrian.
May I ask whether the liquid can be diluted like Copydex or Pva? I’m thinking along the lines of ballasting.
Jon
martin_wynne
Western Thunderer
Always stab a hole through dried Copydex before trying to drill through it. e.g. with a sharp nail or scriber or centre-punch.
adrian
Flying Squad
For me the elastic skin of Copydex is a big advantage over PVA. I've never quite understood the reasoning of laying track on a foam underlay to give it a little bit of give and suspension only to then lock it all solid as a brick by fixing the ballast with PVA. The elasticity of Copydex holds the ballast in place but still allows that flexibility with the foam underlay.
I don't know to be honest, however I have a test piece that needs ballasting so will be testing it in the near future.
simond
Western Thunderer
I was very specifically referring to the brand, so using its name seemed the easiest way…. I realise they make multiple products!
I do not use PVA for ballast as it reacts with granite and gives a green cast which looks most odd. I use Mapei latex. This does not seem to have a drill problem.
I was not having a go at you Simon - but this is a general problem and I have seen confusion reign in more than one thread from this cause. It is a particularly insidious American trap which I try to avoid at all costs. Looking in my local DIY shed, I saw a glue called "Sticks like sh*t" - sounds like a load of cr*p to me ...
Now please excuse me I have a carpet to Hoover ...
Personally, I would never use granite as ballast - appearance-wise it offers no advantage over anything else and it does untold damage to expensive gear boxes when just a single particle comes adrift and gets in the wrong place.
I have a thing about ballasting as I think it lets down many an otherwise good layout.
Here is my own (then unfinished) effort:-
... and it necessitated my own special method which my whole track-building approach was geared towards
On the subject of glues, I would say that method involved PVA - however, I tried two different brands one expensive and one cheap and the expensisve one did not work for me ...
Since that is 4mm and injection moulded chairs, I must apologise for dragging this thread over a ploughed field and back, and just say how interesting I am finding the whole process.
martin_wynne
Western Thunderer
jonte
Western Thunderer
Hayfield1
Western Thunderer
Adrian
Transition curves yes but not printed superelevating as far as I know. But nothing stopping you superelevating the track, Just use the medium or thicker sleeper/timber thickness
Hayfield1
Western Thunderer
Also if you want to remove excess glue, cut the boundary of the glue to stop stringing under the piece yoy want to keep in place
As for making a hole, I tried a sharp scriber and it worked some of the time