Mickoo's American Modelling Empire

Stephen

Western Thunderer
Needless to say it arrived today and looks great and the OMI SD70ACe fits a treat, sadly the Veranda with tender does not so I'll be calling back to see if they'll consider a bespoke unit 200 mm longer.

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Surely, you'd want this sound fitted, and sat on a countersunk rolling road for 'operational display'! :D

Another OMI model I presume? Cracking bit of kit, and utterly worthy of display rather than sat snug in a box. Have you measured up a display cabinet for the Cab Forward yet?!?

Cheers,

Stephen
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Surely, you'd want this sound fitted, and sat on a countersunk rolling road for 'operational display'! :D

Another OMI model I presume? Cracking bit of kit, and utterly worthy of display rather than sat snug in a box. Have you measured up a display cabinet for the Cab Forward yet?!?

Cheers,

Stephen
Hadn't thought of that, not so sure on the rolling road, little point on a diesel but sound would be good and you can run up in EO for the same effect.

To be honest I don't want to touch the ACe and have no great desire to 'drive' it, for me it falls into the collection category and not the play category, that's what the HO is for. With that in mind I may tweak the sand lines so that they line up between the chassis and trucks a bit better.

I've not even powered up the ACe or any of my OMI diesels/electrics so have no idea if they even work or not.

What would sound good is the T4 with it's thumpy 4 stroke, I've not heard/seen one in real life but the audios I have heard don't disappoint; sadly no one makes a T4 in O or HO as yet and they're not gaining many sales in the real world.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Mick

Can you share details of the case vendor please

Thanks

Richard
Sure, it's Decorfab O Gauge Model Train Display Case - Illuminated - 600mm O Gauge don't believe the deliver schedule, it's complete bunkum, takes about three weeks to arrive. If you want one without holes in then probably best to specify that on the order or give them a ring, use the contact details at the bottom of the page and you should get through to Warren in sales, if he doesn't pick up he'll ring back, usually within a few minutes.

My first one wasn't built very well, so even if it hadn't broken it was going back and after sending these photos to Warren he fully accepted it had failed their quality control, but the second one was pretty darn good. He did also accept that the site images with no ventilation holes was misleading.

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Don't worry about the burn marks, that's just from the laser cutter and only on the protective film; you can see the seven (not five as I mentioned before) holes in the end piece and it's the same the other end.

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For £125 it's rather good value and they will be at Stafford show, both the O gauge and the general scales one a few weeks later.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
It appears Whiskas cat food boxes are made to measure for HO 53' containers, a dozen per layer four high fills a box with minimal wastage.

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Handy hint, make sure you find a replacement box (not suitable for HO containers) to put the sachets in before the wife gets home :oops:
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Some more HO Pacific North West, with a dash of Canada sprinkled in.

I'd hoped to get more terrain laid down but most/all of the day was spent on fascia boards and backing boards, some takes a leap of imagination to see the final form but without the bones there can be no flesh.

First job was to blank off the entrance to the removable section and tidy it up, once that's all nice and secure I'll back fill with insulation and terra form to blend in with what's already there.

Second was the retaining wall at Tunnel 2, it's a placeholder really and the real wall will be....actually no idea yet what material is best but it'll be a sectioned concrete wall affair.

The biggest job was completing the fascia around the far end transition from level one to two as well as backing pieces in the corners. I've also added place holders for the two scenic features.

On the left a rock slide cover (think CP concrete covers in Kicking Horse pass or Thompson River etc) and on the right a wooden snow shed based on the Cascade route; both will be open on the leeward side to see the train pass through, though the rock slide may have the scenery (rock faces) extended over a small part of it.

On the left hand side I'm limited in width to the rear of the trackbed as I need to leave a slot for the heater to vent up past the layout.

Below the layout is a bit of a pigsty so I took the man's way out and airbrushed it out, wish it were that simple in real life.

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Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
It appears Whiskas cat food boxes are made to measure for HO 53' containers, a dozen per layer four high fills a box with minimal wastage.

View attachment 243873

Handy hint, make sure you find a replacement box (not suitable for HO containers) to put the sachets in before the wife gets home :oops:

What if you don't have a cat and you don't have any HO 53' containers?? Asking for a friend.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
A little more Pacific North West time these past few weeks, first off a new acquisition, CP SD70ACu on load tests up the hill, ran well and the extra weight helps but still need a 2 x 1 set up for all the full length trains.

Second, it was becoming ever clear that six storage sidings were never going to be enough and extending the existing yard at the tail end due to the mish mash of levels was not going to be practical. It took awhile for the solution to formulate and the end result is the 'trench' from the head end of the yard to drop all the way down and around under the river section giving a further five or six sidings for storage. I have no practical means of a turn back from either yard so have resigned to stop end sidings and manual skycrane engine removal where necessary.

Although this section isn't part of the main scenery I will be adding ballast and some basic yard clutter so the foreground trench will have concrete sides and the overhead concrete beams as seen in UP's LA Alameda trench; nothing overly exciting but enough to distract from whitewash baseboards.

The track bed needs some more fine tuning to level and get rid of that sag midway.

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mickoo

Western Thunderer
Managed my monthly visit to the train set, really need to organise my time priorities a bit better ;)

Not a lot happening except I won some brand new TOU's in an auction, enough to do the whole planned layout with a couple spare.

Ideally they should be mounted under the baseboard but that would take some sort of forward planning, of which most of you will have gathered by now is not happening a lot on this train set, someone once called it busking, I call it making it up as you go along.

Needless to say I had pretty much planned on surface mount switch motors but had no idea the TOU's were so big, good job I hadn't planned on below board mounting as they'd have poked down into the next level several inches if fitted vertically. You can get adapter plates but none were in this lot and it seemed silly not to use the 3D printer for exactly this sort of thing. I'll be honest I've never fitted a TOU in my life or any other switch unit, simply relying on Mk I sky finger so it was a bit of a trial here and there but once I'd worked out a way to fit and connect the first, it didn't take long to do the rest.

Although they're surface mounted they're outside of the main scenery area, having said that this part is basically a storage area so it doesn't really matter but I will add some basic scenery like ballast, ground clutter as it seems a waste to leave such a vast expanse as bare bones.

On the outer edge the two units will be vertically mounted and that adapter plate is in the printer at the moment.

For power I've found an old 5V 2A plug top PSU module for some long lost gadget sent to the great recycling centre in the sky, there's enough grunt there to power all the switches on the planned layout. Five volts gives a nice steady 6 second throw and very low motor noise.

I suppose now I'll have to get some DPDT switches and start making up a basic panel with route and switch indicators an then figure out how to get the track occupancy units integrated.

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simond

Western Thunderer
Mick, appreciating that you have resin printers, I think this is a job I would target at an FDM machine.

I suppose once they’re made and installed they’re unlikely to suffer, but the FDM just seems more robust.

Simon
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Robust you say.....

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But I'm sure FDM would be infinitely better.......

If I hit my switch motors with a force greater than 4.196 Kg and the brackets fail then I'll blame my clumsy backside and not the material.

Learn your material, understand your material, work your material, trust your material.
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Mick

To control the motors I prefer to use 2 12 volt power packs wired together, then you can use single pole switches.
I think you get less wiring. The tortoise instructions have the wiring details.


Richard
 

simond

Western Thunderer
I’m quite impressed by that, but I can imagine the tap with the toffee hammer and it shatters.

Though I suppose that’s about as likely as hanging four kilos of lead on it…

:)
Simon
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
I’m quite impressed by that, but I can imagine the tap with the toffee hammer and it shatters.

Though I suppose that’s about as likely as hanging four kilos of lead on it…

:)
Simon
This is not FNG, much too expensive resin for blocky objects like this, this is SunLu and it does flex as the load is applied; I don't think FNG would flex as much but I'm pretty confident it'd also take the loading or at least more than I'll ever need to apply in this application.

I Picked SunLu on cost, material flexibility, print time and application.

The images perhaps belie how chunky these mounts are.
 
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