1/32 LMS Milk Tank

[Dan Randall]

I see your point entirely, and the pursuit of finescale perfection cripples many a project. im starting to re examine  my ideas on scales and there is a lot of merit with the idea of EM for large roundy roundy and 1/32 for the finescale fix, quite where that leaves me with 7mm I dont know 

Out of pocket by the sound of it....

Some wise words from Neil, but I'm a bit of an obsessive and given the physical size of 7mm, I feel compelled to incorporate details that might well go unnoticed in the smaller scales.  Given the price of 7mm stuff in general though, there won't be too much of it, so I can afford to indulge a little! 

Luckily, with the advent of the home PC and suitable software, I've been getting some CAD knowledge under my belt and am able to design the stuff I need to improve my models.  It's just a shame it eats up so much precious time though and if I was still 25 years old, it probably wouldn't bother me quite so much. 


Regards

Dan

 

[28ten]

Something else - my squares are too small and i had a nice sheet of N/S for the wrapper and that is too small  :scratch: 

 

[Steph Dale]

Something else - my squares are too small and i had a nice sheet of N/S for the wrapper and that is too small  :scratch: 

Hehe, I remember that one when I went up from HO to 0... 

Steph

 

[Ressaldar]

Something else - my squares are too small and i had a nice sheet of N/S for the wrapper and that is too small  :scratch: 

doea that mean that you will also need a larger workbench - when do you tell SWMBO that you need to move house to accommodate the change of scale?

cheers

Mike

 

[28ten]

A large sheet of 10 thou brass arrived today so I have made the tank. It probably says more about me than the kit, but I found this a much easier process than gluing 5 pieces of plastic together. The brass is scored with a stanley knife to form the development of the boiler then it is simply a matter of rolling it and using a bit of scrap to reinforce the join - job done in about 30 minutes. next steps  for the tank are to solder the filler in place, put some ballast in and glue the in place.

The tank complete with ends which are a nice push fit

 

[Rob Pulham]

That's a top tip, I hadn't thought of reinforcing the joint like that - much neater than mine on my tank too

 

[Dikitriki]

Messy soldering inside

Nah, that's not messy. I've seen outsides of boilers worse than that.

Richard

 

[28ten]

That's a top tip, I hadn't thought of reinforcing the joint like that - much neater than mine o n my tank too

The other trick - assuming you have rolling bars - is to roll it tighter at the bottom so you can press on a bit of ply as you solder it up and it will become round rather than oval.

 

[lancer1027]

Exellent work Cynric Im looking forward to this build. BUT more pics please ;D

Rob :wave:

 

[28ten]

To be honest Rob, there isnt much to see yet! most of my time has been spent unraveling the mysteries of ex LMS milk tanks on the WR.

 

[Phill Dyson]

Watching with interest    8)  8)  8) (I have two 7mm ex-LMS tanks in the queue )

 

[Simon]

A large sheet of 10 thou brass arrived today so I have made the tank. It probably says more about me than the kit, but I found this a much easier process than gluing 5 pieces of plastic together. The brass is scored with a stanley knife to form the development of the boiler then it is simply a matter of rolling it and using a bit of scrap to reinforce the join - job done in about 30 minutes. next steps  for the tank are to solder the filler in place, put some ballast in and glue the in place.

The tank complete with ends which are a nice push fit

 

[28ten]

Not a huge amount done today as I went on quick 80 mile ride this morning, but I have managed to prepare the hornblocks for the ballraces

 

[lancer1027]

Great work Cynric . Have you sorted the relavent info for this tank?. Which diagram is it to be? :scratch: I know there is alot of variations on these, i have done a little research myself for when i do mine
Keep posting those pics mate

Rob :wave:

 

[Eastsidepilot]

Excellent work Cynric, I like the idea of ball races . I must admit that I have not taken an interest in 1/32 scale until I signed up for WT , I take that ball races are the norm, I wouldn't mind doing this on 7mm scale stock, we have fitted them on loco's but not wagons and I wonder if there available small enough to fit sprung W irons and still have enough meat on the axle ! :scratch:

ATB, Col.   

 

[28ten]

I take that ball races are the norm, I wouldn't mind doing this on 7mm scale stock, we have fitted them on loco's but not wagons and I wonder if there available small enough to fit sprung W irons and still have enough meat on the axle ! :scratch:

ATB, Col.   

Im ballracing my 1/32 stock  but I suspect most peoople still use brass bearings. but I do intend to give them a fair bit of ballast as I think heavier stock moves so much better and this big stuff is all about getting up close to the stock and feeling the mass - Oh err 
There are two options for wagons in 7mm 1.5 i/d or 2mm i/d both of which require work on slaters axles are 1.8 mm iirc. i think the 1.5 are a better bet as the od is less than the 2mm, the bearings are also quite expensive but I do have some if you want to try them.
3/16 loco axles are on the other hand much easier and I have used flanged and plain ballraces with great success.

 

[Simon Dunkley]

...in 1/32 scale... ...I take that ball races are the norm

Hi Col,

Not really. I am quite keen on the idea (but have left it to others to try out, no point in being a guinea-pig myself) as the scale is big enough for them to fit (most bearings are 4/76mm (3/16") o/d, and 2mm i/d ball races are generally 5mm o/d, so there is not a lot of difference.
Slaters' wheels sometimes come with brass bearings, and sometimes with PTFE. I have never worked out why they vary, but with PTFE bearings there isn't really any need to turn down axle ends for ball races, as properly weighted stock tends to travel some distance without any further help...
The one thing I haven't seen is pin point axles and bearings - thankfully (only a good idea if you have a rigid chassis and can adjust the bearings infinitely).

 

[28ten]

These bearings are 1/8 and they are fairly common so much cheaper than the smaller sizes.
I have been too tired to concerntrate on turning the flanges tonight, but the next major decision is if I am going to modify the axleguard to allow the wheelsets to drop out or leave it.  :scratch: once the races are pressed onto the axle they wont be coming off again without major damage

 

[28ten]

Some progress in that I have turned the wheel flanges down and glued the axleguards in place

 

[Phill Dyson]

God that Warship is going to look mighty impressive hauling a rake of 6 wheelers  8) 8) 8)

Phill