4mm Llanfair ....
- Thread starter LarryG
- Start date
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
As far as proof reading is concerned I'd have agreed with you five years ago. Now I've done some I realise how easy it is to miss something. In fact as far as I can see all instructions are a work in progress becoming more refined as time goes on and as customers comment on areas which are less easily understood. I assure you that I take great pride in endeavouring to get them right first time but doubt I've ever achieved it.
Apologies for the diversion, Larry.
Brian
Apologies for the diversion, Larry.
Brian
LarryG
Western Thunderer
The component parts are okay so they need better and more explanatory exploded diagrams (the artist couldn't make his mind up on orientation within the same drawing). It is the important matter of being able to identify component parts and see how they go together. But when it comes to assembly of wagon brakegear etc, some streamlining is needed to reduce the number of parts.
paulc
Western Thunderer
Parkside kit instructions were one of the better ones but since Peco took them over they have been 'modified' .
Not for the better .
Stephen Freeman
Western Thunderer
The brake gear that I have always found tricky is the Parkside Toad (Not the Peco one) and I have made more than one but always found it difficult to interpret the diagrams hope they have improved. Oh and I think the yokes on the righthand axle maybe should go under the axle so the pull rod connects to the crank over the axle.
Thinking about it I think that the yokes should go under the axles in all cases and the pull rods and cranks should be inboard.
When maintenance or building was being carried out the wheel sets should be able to be dropped out, makes it easier to model too. There is a prototype photo of how things were done (in this case not GWR) on RMWEB on the thread for Bourton on the Water.
Thinking about it I think that the yokes should go under the axles in all cases and the pull rods and cranks should be inboard.
When maintenance or building was being carried out the wheel sets should be able to be dropped out, makes it easier to model too. There is a prototype photo of how things were done (in this case not GWR) on RMWEB on the thread for Bourton on the Water.
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LarryG
Western Thunderer
Thank good ness the underside will be in shadow 
. The black parts are a tougher plastic and do not adhere well, which is why they're dropping off. Ah well, plastikard to the rescue.....
Finished as far as I can go until I order some lost wax fittings.....
Have left the lavatory top window open. Plenty of lessons learned.........
. The black parts are a tougher plastic and do not adhere well, which is why they're dropping off. Ah well, plastikard to the rescue.....Finished as far as I can go until I order some lost wax fittings.....
Have left the lavatory top window open. Plenty of lessons learned.........
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Stephen Freeman
Western Thunderer
I think the black parts are probably from ABS which is why MEKPAK won't work terribly well, best to use Butanone (Methyl Ethyl Ketone), cheaper as well.
Stephen Freeman
Western Thunderer
Yes and you can actually make them work too
...
LarryG
Western Thunderer
I cut a piece of thick glazing to fit the aperture of the fixed window but did not apply glue. Instead, it was trapped in place by a piece of glazing that covers the droplight as well. Bigger glue area!
Finished as far as I can tell. It represents a horsebox not long in traffic after a BR repaint.....
Finished as far as I can tell. It represents a horsebox not long in traffic after a BR repaint.....
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LarryG
Western Thunderer
7mm equivalents of the 4mm lorries are required but I decided to go 6mm seeing as road space is limited. First dealt with was the Scammel mechanical horse, a neat Corgo model and not expensive....
The areas where I wanted to apply Methfix transfers were sprayed over with Halfords Rosso Red so the trasnfers would 'key'. 'British Railways' and the numerals came from an HMRS 2mm sheet. The trailer was resprayed with my carmine red mix and both units were weathered underneath...
The areas where I wanted to apply Methfix transfers were sprayed over with Halfords Rosso Red so the trasnfers would 'key'. 'British Railways' and the numerals came from an HMRS 2mm sheet. The trailer was resprayed with my carmine red mix and both units were weathered underneath...
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LarryG
Western Thunderer
Which couplings do you 7mm guys use......?
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Cliff Williams
Western Thunderer
Try painting the window frames black and cutting some Vivak sheet to make new windows?
simond
Western Thunderer
I use Premier, same as yours, but I metal-black them - an alternative is a rub over with a permanent felt tip pen, anything to lose the brass / bright silver colours.Which couplings do you 7mm guys use......?
the other thing I do is to crimp the last couple of threads on the screw, prevents frustration, particularly on garden railways!
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Focalplane
Western Thunderer
I have bought blackened couplers at Dapol’s shop in Chirk. I think they sell packs of 5, both screw and 3 link. And while there they can also supply lost parts such as buffer springs. Just don’t look at the expensive items,
Paul
Paul
Go careful with the Dapol couplings especially the screwlink versions. Some of them are only cosmetic and when you couple up a decent train the links start falling to bits!
Cheers
Dave
Focalplane
Western Thunderer
Dave, not sure how long a decent train is! I have rakes of 20 all Dapol vans wagons and bolsters on Moor Street, pulled along by a large Prairie with no problems. However, the springs supplied are too weak to be realistic with stretching taking place. Some regular maintenance is always a good idea, though.