7mm Gladiator LMS/BR Fowler/Stanier 4P 2-6-4T

P A D

Western Thunderer
Been away for a while so progress has stalled. However, back at the bench I decided to leave the body for now and assemble the bogie and pony trucks. Both are of a simplified design but I've built them out of the box as they will look the part from most viewing angles.
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Cheers,
Peter
 

Genghis

Western Thunderer
Peter,

I found it necessary to add some weight to the leading pony truck. Also lengthened the slot in the rear bogie.

Coming on nicely!

David
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Thanks David.

Progress is still slow, but I've got the steps on all round.
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And I've made a coal plate for the bunker so the rear bunker plate is now fixed. I should have prepared the the plate before the sides were in place and it would have been easier to do and a better fit would have been achieved. I'll either fill the gaps with Isopon or add a depleted coal load after painting to hide them.
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Cheers,
Peter
 

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
Lovely work, Peter.
Can i just suggest creating something to fill the gap between the front truck and the chassis, as a view blocker?
Dave.
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Lovely work, Peter.
Can i just suggest creating something to fill the gap between the front truck and the chassis, as a view blocker?
Dave.

Hi Dave,
Many thanks. As t'other Dave says, the cylinders etc will do that.
Cheers,
Peter
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
I was referring to the gap directly over the pony truck axle - I doubt the cylinders will cover that.
Dave.
Ah, I see what you mean Dave. I've just realised I left off the top spacer on the truck to allow for cleaning inside the frames and have forgotten to put it on. Duuurh!
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
I was referring to the gap directly over the pony truck axle - I doubt the cylinders will cover that.
Dave.

Here's the truck after the missing top spacer has been added
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And with the truck in place. The spacer slot on the top edge of the truck is now filled. However, if you mean the remaining gap above the spacer which is not on the real thing due to the bolster bearing down on the truck to support the weight at the front, then no I will not be adding anything to fill or reduce this gap. I'm quite happy that when the cylinders etc are in place this gap will not be visible from normal viewing angles, if at all.
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This is a low angle view of my Stanier 4P which has a similar gap to the Fowler. To see the gap with the naked eye I had to put my nose on the table, so I'm sure the gap won't be an issue. Thanks for pointing it out though. All grist to the mill.
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Cheers,
Peter
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
I've been adding more of the details to the body which just leaves the tank beading, buffers, cab door handles and fire iron brackets to complete the work on the body exterior. Here's the ejector and associated pipework.
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At the front, the lamp irons, the hand rail on the smokebox door, grabrails on the running plate plus the heating and brake pipes have now been fitted.
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As have the heating and brake pipes at the rear, plus three of the four lamp irons. I ran out of time so the middle lower one still need to go on
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There is a lubricator and oil pot to go on the running plate each side of the smokebox, but those are 3D resin parts and will be added after painting along with the oil pipes.
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Finally, I've added the roof vent cover, the boiler band cleats and the whistle. The latter is just glued on and will be removed along with the safety valves for painting. They are not included in the kit but I'll add the fire iron stowage brackets from waste fret to the top of the tank on this side. With hindsight I should have done that earlier in the build.
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Cheers,
Peter
 

dibateg

Western Thunderer
Very nice, neat work as always Peter..

No - I'm not tempted by one of these, they didn't run on my line!

Regards
Tony
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Very nice, neat work as always Peter..

No - I'm not tempted by one of these, they didn't run on my line!

Regards
Tony

Many thanks Tony.

They are big immpresive beasts but not as handsome as the Stanier version. As to them not running on your line, you could always cite modeller's licence!

Cheers,
Peter
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
After a near three month break from the workbench, I finally got back in the garage with the recent spell of warmer weather.

Support brackets for the sandpipes are provided on the etch, with a suggested shaping as per this diagram.
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It seemed like a complex way to do it so I went with this simpler method.
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I didn't take any images after fitting but the results will be visible in the later images of the build.

Next the cylinders and motion bracket. The parts for the valve piston glands were miss cast so I ended up removing them and replacing later with parts I turned up in the lathe.
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The cylinders and valve gear are designed as a removable unit. Here are the cylinders and motion bracket screwed to the frames.
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And a test fit with the body on the frames, also showing the sand pipes.
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A dry run with the slidebars and crosshead in place to check the clearance with the front crankpin.
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The inspection panels on the cylinders were made from scratch as the kit parts were too small
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Here the slidebars are soldered in place and the connecting rod added to the crosshead.
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The replacement piston valve glands can be seen in this image.
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The centre drivers after fitting the return cranks.
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The valve gear parts prepped readyfor assembly.
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And after pinning together.
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The right hand gear after fitting.
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Maxed out on images.

Cheers,
Peter
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
The left hand valve gear after fitting.
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And the cylinders and valve gear demounted.
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All the parts are now added apart from the door handles and backhead. The bodywork has now been completed with the addition of the tank beading plus the injector and pipework.
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The cast valve slides are cosmetic only and are fixed to the underside of the running plate. The drain cock castings are fixed too close to the frames, so I'll be removing and refitting on the cylinder centre lines to give more clearance for the truck wheels on the curves.
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Here's a close up of the injector.
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And a few gratuitous shots taken in the evening light in the garden.

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The chassis and valve gear run very smoothly so I'll get the motor in next and check that all is OK before stripping for painting.

I need to do the same for the Gladiator Horwich Mogul and the Oakville Ivatt 2 tank so I've got a lot to do this summer.

Cheers,
Peter
 
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