7mm 7mm Mick's Workbench - JLTRT Royal Scot

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Oh no, you've forgotten to fit the ends of the tube plate stays in the half etched nuts... That'll make you swear! Haha..

Looking lovely though matey..!

JB.
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Thanks for the kind comments everyone :thumbs:

Oh no, you've forgotten to fit the ends of the tube plate stays in the half etched nuts... That'll make you swear! Haha..

Looking lovely though matey..!

JB.

Bloomin eck mate you're lucky I put those in :)) :)) like you say mate you can't see a great deal in there in any case so as long as at a glance it looks ok that'll do me. On that note does anyone have any inside smoke box shots of a similar loco, maybe the preserved J72 would be close. I have a rough idea of the blast pipe profile etc but a picture would be great

ATB Mick
 

Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
Mick,
Some of the shot's you took of the J69 at the NRM have smokebox interior detail that would be similar to your engine.:thumbs:

ATB, Col.
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Thanks again for the kind comments everyone and you're right it will be a shame to paint it :)) :thumbs: the closest i can find to interior smoke box detail for the J73 is this picture here;

http://m.flickr.com/photos/60631240@N02/8188822560/lightbox/

I also have a drawing so I may get on with those bits next, oh and finish the templates for the pantograph mill. Today though is house cleaning and painting as we have a viewing later, more time away from the bench !!

ATB Mick
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Progress !!! How time flys when the summer holidays are here, six weeks, it's seems like six months :)) Anyway in the holidays I managed to get down to see Col to get the J73 frames and coupling rods milled out. A thoroughlty enjoyable outing and thanks to Col and Liz for making me so welcome. Below is the template I made up for the frames and the raw plates cut out. I have to say I really think that pantograph milling, if you're building from scratch is definately the way forward. I was hugley impressed with how easy Col made it look and I'm positive I will use this method again,

Copy of 2013_0901S7J730106.JPG

Copy of 2013_0901S7J730100.JPG

Once the frames were cut out I marked and drilled for 12BA screws to hold the axle box springs. These are supplied by LG and once cleaned up they can be added and removed when ever needed and will retain the axle box. Plus they really look the part and although the whole assembly differs somewhat from the real thing I think overall it's a good representation:

Copy of 2013_0901S7J730101.JPG

Copy of 2013_0901S7J730103.JPG

I know I've made a bit of a balls up with this casting but once a 12BA washer and nut are on there it'll do the job. So using some frame spacer material supplied by the S7 Society I cut out a front and rear spacer and got the frames together. I borrowed my Dad's Hobby Holidays Jig which I hadn't used before and managed quite well without up until now and had a go with it. I must say I'm over the moon with how it went. After about an hour I had as set of frames tacked together and no binding at all, happy days :)):thumbs:

Copy of 2013_0901S7J730108.JPG
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I'm also quite pleased how the spring looks behind the driver. The Axle boxes and hornguides are Meteor Models by the way and thanks again to Col for a lovely set of coupling rods. And finally if it'll a work a little video, camera in one hand, pushing with the other hand. Crap I know :headbang:


Still lots to do but a rolling set of frames is a real leap forward. Now off to solder up the frames and cut out the footplate, get her looking like a loco,

ATB Mick
 

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Hi Mick

Big moment when the chassis first comes together. Good stuff! Flanges look a bit weedy to me though:D

Did you make the pattern out of plastic card?

Must get the Heyside pantograph miller sorted.

Cheers

Richard
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Flanges look a bit weedy to me though:D

:)) :)) Hi Richard,

Flanges look just right to me :thumbs: the template is 60 thou platikard (both black and white). I think if you get your miller fired up you'll get plenty of use out of it. Getting my fingure out and getting to this stage has definitely rekindled my mojo!

Cheers JB :thumbs:

ATB Mick
 

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
So my next job was to cut the footplate out. This would have been much easier done at the begining but to be honest I probably didn't have the confidence to take the saw to it then. Here it is marked out and ready for cutting;

Copy of 2013_0915J73S70001.JPG

Once this was cut out I set about securing the boiler and the tank/cab assembly to the footplate, this is done with 12BA screws so that the parts can be removed for working on and painting etc. Here's the work complete and she's starting to look like a loco at long last :thumbs:

Copy of 2013_0915J73S70016.JPG

Still loads to do and lots of cleaning up but you get the basic shape. I wanted to really crack on with the frames and valve gear, first job the cylinder back plate. Heres what I made up and the slide bar cross head castings which are LG and very nice
Copy of 2013_0915J73S70003.JPGOn studying the GA I realised that the Joy valve gear ( as discussed elsewhere ) intrudes high in the smoke box and as such I really had to think about how I would tackle this issue as it could not be part of the body. I settled on this solution;
Copy of 2013_0915J73S70012.JPG
Copy of 2013_0915J73S70013.JPG

The cylinder back plate sits proud of the frames to carry the valve guides in the correct place and is also set at an angle as the GA gives this dimension it made life easy and you can see where the valve rod tails protrude through the front of the smoke box, which is a real characteristic of these powerful tanks. Here's what it looks like with the body fitted;

Copy of 2013_0915J73S70008.JPGCopy of 2013_0915J73S70020.JPG

I know the front splasher is yet to be fitted but I'm quite pleased with how it has gone. Here's how I got round the body section;

Copy of 2013_0915J73S70014.JPG

Not the neatest ever but it seems to work ok. The angle on the buffer beam is where the front of the frames fit and are retained which means I only need one screw to hold the frames in position ( an idea pinched from Eastsidepilot ) cheers Col :thumbs:

I really need to get on with the Joy valve gear now, motion plate first and the rest will follow :)

ATB Mick
 
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