4mm An EM Workbench: Mini-Signwriting (rough)

AJC

Western Thunderer
Who's brake lever guides do you use Adam?

Wagon looks great!

The one from the Rumney etch for 10' Morton braked wagons (B.114). Yes, I know this is 10' 6". The 9' wb minerals have these too. All sorts of useful bits on those. And thank you, it's scrubbed up quite well, despite PECO. If it ever dries out, I can paint all these soon and catch up with weathering and lettering.

Adam
 

matto21

Western Thunderer
The one from the Rumney etch for 10' Morton braked wagons (B.114). Yes, I know this is 10' 6". The 9' wb minerals have these too. All sorts of useful bits on those. And thank you, it's scrubbed up quite well, despite PECO. If it ever dries out, I can paint all these soon and catch up with weathering and lettering.

Adam
Thanks - I'm trying to find a source of etched brake lever guides that a) don't involve buying all other bits I may or may not use and b) aren't too fiddly to assemble!
 

cctransuk

Active Member
Thanks - I'm trying to find a source of etched brake lever guides that a) don't involve buying all other bits I may or may not use and b) aren't too fiddly to assemble!

In my experience, etched brake lever guides are, by definition, fiddly to assemble.

I decided, years ago, that life is too short and I therefore use cast levers / guides.

John Isherwood.
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
True, however on the hierarchical table of fiddliness, some are fiddler than others (Ambis for example)!

Oh yes. They are a pain, I agree, and the Rumney bits are better.


For me, a degree of fiddliness is what I want of an evening so that's what I do. I use cast levers on occasion (the pair of LNER vehicles a page or two back), but not often. Nothing wrong with them, if you can get them for your prototype, and cast Morton brakes from ABS are great, I've used dozens, but I like the finesse of etched levers. My models, my choice.

Adam
 

Overseer

Western Thunderer
I like fiddly etched bits too - or I do now I can actually solder them!

I can't even work out how to assemble the Ambis ones!
Hobby Holidays have the 7mm instructions on their links page which should help with working out how to assemble them. Most are obvious once the logic is explained.
 
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AJC

Western Thunderer
Another ready for paint. The only detail worth noting are the steps atop the buffers. Parkside give you a couple of bits of moulded plastic but these are fiddly and vulnerable. This arrangement, made from a couple of pieces of scrap etch, are pinned through the buffer stocks and glued in place. Will it be warm/ dry enough?

IMG_8089.jpeg

Adam
 

Lyndhurstman

Western Thunderer
It seems that even the Scalefour Society claims that anyone that details anything using a Masokits part is described as a fanatic. I wonder what that makes S4 society members then? LOL!!

Tony
It makes us content :D
FWIW, I like the Craig Welsh 'stand alone' NS etched brake loops. They came (and are still available) from S4 Stores. The instructions are here
I've described them before as 'pan-dimensional origami' but they do fold up into something neat, and strong (once you've dabbed some solder into the bends.)

Cheers

Jan
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
It makes us content :D
FWIW, I like the Craig Welsh 'stand alone' NS etched brake loops. They came (and are still available) from S4 Stores. The instructions are here
I've described them before as 'pan-dimensional origami' but they do fold up into something neat, and strong (once you've dabbed some solder into the bends.)

Cheers

Jan

Oh yes - I've used them on the minerals. They'd be easier/more resilient while being folded in brass, but they work well.

Adam
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
It seems that even the Scalefour Society claims that anyone that details anything using a Masokits part is described as a fanatic. I wonder what that makes S4 society members then? LOL!!

Tony

I think that’s just Mike Clark’s sense of humour, having met him. His components have the very great merit of working and fitting as designed… it’s not his fault that someone named a street Crotch Crescent.

Adam
 

cctransuk

Active Member
Another ready for paint. The only detail worth noting are the steps atop the buffers. Parkside give you a couple of bits of moulded plastic but these are fiddly and vulnerable. This arrangement, made from a couple of pieces of scrap etch, are pinned through the buffer stocks and glued in place. Will it be warm/ dry enough?

View attachment 223485

Adam

Sorry - but, unless my eyes deceive me, you have suffered the same 'sag' in the wagon deck / sides that happened to me.

If I were to build another, I'd superglue a 10×3mm. steel spine below the floor.

John Isherwood.
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
Sorry - but, unless my eyes deceive me, you have suffered the same 'sag' in the wagon deck / sides that happened to me.

If I were to build another, I'd superglue a 10×3mm. steel spine below the floor.

John Isherwood.

Having just held a steel rule up to it, you're absolutely right - I guess that a bit of differential cooling as the moulding came out of the tool. Now, since the underside of the floor is partially clear, and the deck will be covered with a container, there is something I can do about this... Thanks for pointing it out.

Adam
 

cctransuk

Active Member
Having just held a steel rule up to it, you're absolutely right - I guess that a bit of differential cooling as the moulding came out of the tool. Now, since the underside of the floor is partially clear, and the deck will be covered with a container, there is something I can do about this... Thanks for pointing it out.

Adam

Nowt to do with the moulding process; all to do with the effects of solvent adhesive when applied to only one side of thin mouldings.

The model almost certainly looked fine immediately after assembly, but the drying process has induced expansion at the joints between the solebars and the floor.

The provision of a rigid 'spine' below the floor would prevent the bowing.

John Isherwood.
 
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AJC

Western Thunderer
Instant (or close enough), gratification. One of Rapido’s LNWR vans, ‘30s freight for the use of. This slightly bends the self imposed rule that this train is a cheap/rescue exercise, but it was on a fair discount! It's also a rather fine model, of course.

IMG_8128.jpeg

Conversion to EM was simple: unscrew the NEM coupling mounts, ease the chassis out, prise out the wheels. If you tuck a flat bladed screwdriver under the weight that will ping off and you’ll be able to see the mounting pegs for the brake gear. I drilled those out and then prised the mouldings out of their rebates before slicing them away from the vees.

Gently pull the metal safety loops out (they bend, but bend back), and then remove the brake mouldings. Trim the spigot off the front near flush. Open the existing rebate out a bit (just over half a mm will do), and refit the brake mouldings. Being lazy, I melted the safety loops back in with the soldering iron. Job done, pop the new wheels in, re-assemble, and, in my case, secure body to chassis using new coupling hooks.

IMG_8129.jpeg

Adam

PS, I’ve added an etched works plate (the printed one was lovely, but obviously flat). The roof came off on mine - as you can tell - which is helpful if, like me, you want a van long in traffic.
 
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LarryG

Western Thunderer
Who would have thought we'd be offered rtr LNWR wagons. I know now't about wagons and so I don't know when the last ones left revenue service.
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
Who would have thought we'd be offered rtr LNWR wagons. I know now't about wagons and so I don't know when the last ones left revenue service.

Astonishing isn’t it really? I guess - in common with most other pre-Group vans - they’d have been gone by 1960. More lingered in departmental stock, but those that have entered preservation all seem to have been in the hands of the forces (batches were built for the ROD in the First World War). I think the example Rapido looked at is at Chatham dockyard, there’s a couple of others in Israel courtesy of the ROD connection. A really nice model of a distinctive and fairly common design.

Adam
 
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