Another MOK 8F !
- Thread starter Lancastrian
- Start date
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
As I'm building this to S7 standards. I decided to widen the ashpan by making some overlays out of scrap etch. At the same time I looked at producing the rear of the ashpan as per the prototype.
by Ian Allen, on Flickr
The sides held in place with Blu-tac so that I can adjust them if necessary to check clearance once the unit is offered up to the frames with the horn guides in place.
by Ian Allen, on Flickr
20171105_154513[/url] by Ian Allen, on Flickr[/IMG]
One side has holes drilled ready to accept 0.8mm brass wire for the damper operating linkages. Yes, the one you can see is in the wrong place !
Ian
by Ian Allen, on FlickrThe sides held in place with Blu-tac so that I can adjust them if necessary to check clearance once the unit is offered up to the frames with the horn guides in place.
by Ian Allen, on Flickr
One side has holes drilled ready to accept 0.8mm brass wire for the damper operating linkages. Yes, the one you can see is in the wrong place !
Ian
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Len Cattley
Western Thunderer
I will have to do that on my ashpan on my rebuilt Scot, (when I get round to starting it)
Len
Len
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Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
After another busy couple of weeks, I've managed to get some more work done on the frames.
Firstly, the final link has been made and fitted:
by Ian Allen, on Flickr
This means that the frames can now be made up. Additional frame stay from brass T section added which sits just in front of the firebox.:
by Ian Allen, on Flickr
For comparison, Finescale on the left, S7 on the right:
by Ian Allen, on Flickr
Ian
Firstly, the final link has been made and fitted:
by Ian Allen, on FlickrThis means that the frames can now be made up. Additional frame stay from brass T section added which sits just in front of the firebox.:
by Ian Allen, on FlickrFor comparison, Finescale on the left, S7 on the right:
by Ian Allen, on FlickrIan
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
The extensions to mount the motion bracket and expansion link assembly have now been fitted, and the left hand side now has the hornblock keeper plates installed.
by Ian Allen, on Flickr
A close up showing the modification made to the keeper plates so that they can be swung out of the way to drop the horn blocks without having to remove both screws. The right hand screw is soldered to the nut behind to allow this.
by Ian Allen, on Flickr
Ian
by Ian Allen, on FlickrA close up showing the modification made to the keeper plates so that they can be swung out of the way to drop the horn blocks without having to remove both screws. The right hand screw is soldered to the nut behind to allow this.
by Ian Allen, on FlickrIan
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Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
adrian
Flying Squad
Thanks for posting - it'll be a useful reference when I get round to my kit. Do you know what the holes were for? Is it for pipework or accessibility?
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Hi Adrian,
Not 100% sure as I haven't compared the drawing to a pipe and rod drawing yet. If you have the Wild Swan book, they are on the sectional drawing showing the stretcher detail differences for the NBL engines and those in the later 83xx series onwards. It is the lower of the two drawings. I also have a print from the NRM of the works drawings for locos built from 8319 (IIRC) onwards and it also shows the two holes.
From memory, holes are 1'6" and 1' 9" in front of centre line of third axle. Larger hole is 2 & 5/8" and I think smaller hole is 1 & 1/2"
Ian
Not 100% sure as I haven't compared the drawing to a pipe and rod drawing yet. If you have the Wild Swan book, they are on the sectional drawing showing the stretcher detail differences for the NBL engines and those in the later 83xx series onwards. It is the lower of the two drawings. I also have a print from the NRM of the works drawings for locos built from 8319 (IIRC) onwards and it also shows the two holes.
From memory, holes are 1'6" and 1' 9" in front of centre line of third axle. Larger hole is 2 & 5/8" and I think smaller hole is 1 & 1/2"
Ian
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Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
Adrian,
The 2 & 5/8" hole(s) are for the vacuum brake train pipe - yes there is another hole which needs drilling, 14" behind the centre line of the leading axle.
The other hole is for a shaft which has a lever on the outside of the frames connected to an operating rod from the cab which controls the cylinder drain cocks.
I have a low quality print of Derby drawing 16582 of 1943 which is pertinent to the Horwich built engines, and others. I might order it as a TIFF from the NRM.
243 D43 16582 Pipe & rod arrangement elevation & plan Mar 1943 2-8-0 freight LMS
243 D43 16583 Pipe & rod arrangement end views Mar 1943 2-8-0 freight LMS
Having drilled the second hole, I've made the first of three oil traps:
by Ian Allen, on FlickrIan
Keeping a watchful eye,
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
I've mocked up the vacuum brake train pipe for inside of the frames:
by Ian Allen, on Flickr
What is obvious is that it will have to be made up in separate pieces to get it between the frame stretchers, so I'll take the opportunity to fashion the connecting elbows for the pipe run.
Additionally I noticed last night that there is an additional stay between the two sandboxes mounted inside the frames to which the train pipe is clipped, so something else to make up.
Ian
by Ian Allen, on FlickrWhat is obvious is that it will have to be made up in separate pieces to get it between the frame stretchers, so I'll take the opportunity to fashion the connecting elbows for the pipe run.
Additionally I noticed last night that there is an additional stay between the two sandboxes mounted inside the frames to which the train pipe is clipped, so something else to make up.
Ian
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
More work on the vacuum brake train pipe:
by Ian Allen, on Flickr
Turned up one end of the elbow joint then soldered to the brass rod. The second half of the elbow joint, which is longer, along with the pipe is from nickel silver rod.
More work after Christmas as I now have to make the triangular pipe joints either side of the oil trap !
by Ian Allen, on FlickrTurned up one end of the elbow joint then soldered to the brass rod. The second half of the elbow joint, which is longer, along with the pipe is from nickel silver rod.
More work after Christmas as I now have to make the triangular pipe joints either side of the oil trap !
Lancastrian
Western Thunderer
SteadyRed
Western Thunderer
Got an MOK 8F in the pile, grabbed it a couple of years ago when Dave said that the batch he had would probably be the last, didn't want to miss out. (Shame I didn't put a JLTRT 24 & 25 in my pile.)
Spoke to Dave yesterday, he told me has had a new batch of fireboxes cast, so the MOK 8F live on, at least for the short term.
My kit was missing the smoke box door, if you have one in your to do pile may be worth a look.
Dave
Spoke to Dave yesterday, he told me has had a new batch of fireboxes cast, so the MOK 8F live on, at least for the short term.
My kit was missing the smoke box door, if you have one in your to do pile may be worth a look.
Dave