Building an MMP RMB - a box of delights

djparkins

Western Thunderer
I rather think there won't be another one.

Thank God for That!!! I don't think my nerves could stand it. How you have come to grief with the droplights I cannot even begin to imagine.

In fairness, I did point out to you right at the beginning of this thread that I did not think they could be a commercial proposition for a professional builder [unless on 25p per hour!]. No one is going to pay £2000.00+ for a coach!

They are designed to be built by the end-user, with the build process as important as the end product - so no time pressure.

Regards,

DJP/MMP
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Thanks Lee! I guess the owner will be pleased, especially as there were times when it really looked like I would have to throw in the towel. To see it sat there on the test track in final paint, with the windows glazed and the roof almost in place cheers the heart.

While I consider how far I've come, I thought I'd consider the final internal details, being the luggage racks and the lamp shades.

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There are two kinds of rack provided. This one, the smaller, is for over the end seating. The longer variant fits over the back-to-back pairs.

To come clean, knowing how much the body may have to flex while installing the roof at the end, I am worried such details will be very vulnerable. The more I look at the coach, the more I think for all the effort to assemble them (the above is six components) they will be barely visible in the end.

I'm going to ask Richard what he thinks. Part of me would like to fit them, but the practical side thinks they're a step to far.

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I wrestled the roof on, though it's not fully seated at this stage, because I wanted to check clearances and how hard it would be to fiddle the central banana-restrainer into position. It's beginning to look the part, I think.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I thought I'd try fitting the luggage rack and a light, to see how they'd look, and assess how long they might stay in place.

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Without internal lighting fitted, sadly you'd never see these were fitted from most normal viewing angles.

Anyway, I am pending client choice, so I shall lay the build aside for a spell and get on with something else.
 

mth

Western Thunderer
Hi Heather,
Just wondering if the quarter lights are the parallel vane type or the angled ones?
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Angled Vane type

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Parallel Vane type

Reason for asking is, to my eyes, they look upside down. Please tell me I need an eyesite test.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
You don't need an eyesight test. I believe they are upside down. My excuse is I was following the instructions. :oops::rolleyes:

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Even though there are photos that show the drawing is incorrect. D'oh!

Right. The roof'll have to come off again. Just as well I used PVA to stick 'em in. :(
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
The decision from Mission Control was no-go on the luggage racks and lampshades. That's a bullet dodged, then.

Fitting the roof showed an annoying tendency to push the WC end of the body outwards slightly. A little judicious hotting stick action shifted the inner end inwards a gnat's crochet, and now things settle much better.

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While the roof was off to refit the ventilator panels, I also satin varnished the table tops so a little variation in tone can be seen through the windows. All that remains is to seat (and attempt to glue) the roof in its final position, fit the ETH connectors to the body, and persuade the gangway top covers to sit neatly.

Then, I think, we shall be all done bar the appointment with the official photographer, and delivery to the patient client.
 

40126

Western Thunderer
Very nice Heather, Think you should consider model building as a career :oops:.

Coat on, sprinting for the nearest exit :p

Steve :cool:
 

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
Hi Heather,

Having spent the last 10mins drooling over that superb RMB that you have built.... I noticed how the underframe has a great finish. Please could you explain what you did to achieve that?

Cheers
Lee
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Great finish. I'm not sure it's that great, but thank you anyway! :)

Well, it's what I generally term my Patent Underframe Grot. This is a mix of matt enamels, roughly 60% black to 40% earth brown. I vary the mix a little, depending on how mucky the underparts need to be.

I've since found a chocolate brown Humbrol, no 98, which I find just needs a dash or two of black to darken it enough for the job.

Ironically, the original colour specs for the BR Corporate Blue livery was a chocolate brown underframe and bogies. Someone had obviously spotted that when you paint things black, they go brown from track dirt and brake dust anyway!
 

Healey Mills

Western Thunderer
Thank you for that info, that's very useful. I wish I'd thought of that before spraying my latest class 40 underframe. Why is it I keep missing the obvious :headbang:

But at least with an all black finish I can just do as BR do..... coat in dirt!
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Heh! I originally started using the grot mix to give weathering a leg up. In the end, the finish is usually adequate that only a light dusting with rust and a little dry brushing is required.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
There always seems to be an endless list of little jobs to do at the end of a build.

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In the end, I've decided to leave the roof unglued. There's been too much subtle deformation to ensure it sits absolutely neatly on the little body side tabs. From normal viewing distances you can't see the slight gap, and I'll live with it. Anyway, fitting the filler/handrail pipes, secured with a dab of Kristal Klear in case they ever need to come out again, after which they'll get a quick coat of suitable colour paint. The gangway rain covers are also fitted. Not as neat as they could have been, but you can only do your best.

In other news, I think I have solved a niggly wobble on the underframe/bogie interface, made worse with the surprisingly weighty body on top. I do have a further fix if my solution doesn't solve it fully.
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
In other news, I think I have solved a niggly wobble on the underframe/bogie interface, made worse with the surprisingly weighty body on top. I do have a further fix if my solution doesn't solve it fully.

Hi Heather,

make the mating bearing surfaces as big as possible (a disc of brass shim perhaps on the top of the bogie bolster) and that should take out the wobble.

Great build by the way:bowdown::thumbs:

cheers

Mike
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
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The soldering iron action yesterday inevitably caused the paint to bubble. Rather than bother with a total repaint, I've added random patches of fresh paint around to give the impression of in-service repairs. I think I'll get away with it. ;)
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
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I keep looking round in case there's something obvious I've missed. Aside from unused parts, I don't think there is.

The marathon is over. It is complete. Just now I nervously fitted the body in place on the underframe, wheedled the nuts into position and tightened them as far as I could. The final operation was to fettle and fit the ETH connectors - like so many final parts, stuck with Klear so if the need arises they can be prized off without lasting harm.

So, that's it. Very nearly three years since I set out. Thank you for sticking with me, offering advice and help when I needed it. When I have recovered from the excitement I shall make an appointment with the official photographer and get some nice photos done. I shall then compose my closing thoughts on this build.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Gallery shots can be found on this link...

So, summing up.

I approached this build with a degree of trepidation. It's a lot of kit, and appears very daunting when you first open the box. Making the first cut is the start of a lengthy, occasionally frustrating, but ultimately enjoyable process.

This is the point. If you want a fast way to a Mark One coach, this is not the ideal route. This is a kit designed to be accurate when finished, but also to be savoured during the construction. It's a builder's kit. Everything about it encourages you to take your time and enjoy the process.

Now I have an MMP Mk1 notched on my soldering iron, what have I learned?
  • Read the instructions, then read them again. Don't try to digest and understand them all in one go. Read a section, then read it again, perhaps even again. Some of the instructions only really begin to make sense once you are forming the metal parts. It becomes apparent that each paragraph also forms a section of construction.
  • Take your time. Realise there are whole sections that may not be important or relevant for the build in question. Importantly, read, and read again, the section you're working on while you're fettling parts. I also found it a help to go through the instructions to cross out sections that were irrelevant to this build. All of a sudden, the seemingly complex instructions don't seem quite so daunting, and it becomes easier to find your place again while working!
  • The instructions are for guidance, and you are free to go off piste - if you think you are clever enough. The construction sequence doesn't have to follow the instructions, but for a first time builder it helps.
  • For this build I was using third party bogies, and adding extra complication for electric train heating, air braking, door corrosion strips and other modern changes. Initially this was a worry to me, but once I started - admittedly with a lot of willingly given guidance - it worked out just fine.
  • Know your prototype. Whether you get the information from published sources, the web or a combination of both, you can never know enough about what you're trying to build. The kit has been designed to be an accurate 1/43rd scale recreation of the real thing, allowing for scale and materials, but sometimes you need to see what the real thing looked like to understand how some components go together. There are loads of heritage lines running Mk1s, so there's no excuse for not being able to find a real one for reference. By the bye, don't forget preserved vehicles don't always have the features they were built with. It helps to understand the way they changed during service so you can interpret what you see.
If I build another MMP coach kit - and it is a very big "if" - there are some things I would approach differently.
  • I'd make better allowance for fitting the body to the frames earlier in the build. Having to hack about a finished underframe is no fun.
  • I would assemble the gangways before fitting them to the body. This would make them easier to build, and makes it easier to paint. In fact, I'd leave the gangways off until all the fiddling about with internal details, roof fitting and mounting on the frames, hell, why not even leave all the fiddly end detailing off until the last minute, so you don't keep damaging it during the rest of construction! There are other sections I might work on out of sequence, too.
  • I wouldn't worry so much. I spent a long time worrying about this build instead of just getting on and building it!
  • I shouldn't be afraid of using adhesives instead of solder. While I prefer solder for strength it's not always the best way to fix things.
The end result certainly looks like a Mk1 RMB. All the extra fiddly bits that have been added to the kit make for a nicely fussy underframe. Could I have done a better job? Yes, of course. I made some proper hoohahs during the build, many of which came back to haunt me. The roof will live with me for many a year, and was probably the single point where I almost threw in the towel. It took over a year of worrying at it before I found workable solution, and that's no fun. I was determined to complete the model once that issue had been overcome, and it's been gratifying to see it move rapidly to the finale.

Finally, a big thank you to @Bob-65B for all his assistance with various details and information provided, and to @Dog Star for pushing me when I needed it. Thanks also to everyone who has commented on the thread during this rather protracted build. I couldn't have done it without you!
 
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