7mm Building JLTRT diesels - marker / tail lights for flat front diesels
- Thread starter Dog Star
- Start date
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
As the sides, roof and floor form a rigid structure after the sides have been glued to the roof I was able to prepare both cabs before fixing either cab into place.
Araldite 5 minute epoxy is a strange beast when mixed and the setting / curing behaviour can be used to our advantage. I like the stuff in the double-syringe as I can squeeze out equal portions of the two components. I use a cocktail stick for mixing the glue on a piece of white card... between one and two minutes of stirring / folding to try to get an uniform consistency. I use the cocktail stick to apply enough glue to coat each bonding surface with a thin and even layer of adhesive - I try to avoid too much glue as the surplus can spill out onto the surface of the parts. Press the two parts together and hold... or apply masking tape... or clamp. After 10 minutes the joint ought to be strong enough that the clamping pressure can be remove and I can check alignment of parts - in spite of what the product packing says this adhesive is flexible for up to 30 minutes after mixing so some adjustment is possible. If there is any glue on the visible surfaces of the parts then I use a wood scraper - make an angle cut across a cocktail stick - to remove the bulk of the glue using a gentle pushing action to raise the glue from the surface. When the bulk of the excess glue is removed I wipe the surface with Butanone on a piece of cotton... this may need repeating several times to ensure complete removal of the glue on the surface.
Removal of excess glue by use of wooden sticks and solvent needs to be done between 30 and 60 minutes after mixing the adhesive... sooner is a risk to the integrity of the joint whilst later can be awkward as the glue becomes difficult to move / impervious to the solvent.
Although I have not tried to establish the point at which a joint is "sound" I leave parts for several hours before working on the assembly - fixing parts with Araldite as described here is worth doing around 7 to 8pm as the joint attains maximum strength overnight.
Cleanliness of the parts is a necessary precursor when using this glue and I use Synthetic Cellulose Thinners, on a cotton bud, to clean all bonding surfaces. There are other degreasing agents which are available to modellers, the stuff I use comes from a local car paint supplier and is fairly cheap.
regards, Graham
I have edited my post above to include details of achieving a fit between cabs and sides such that filling/fettling is minimised.
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
There are a couple of Wizzos on the bench at the moment... and an envious eye has been cast over the driver's desk of our Cl.37/4 because that model sports some natty transfer for dials and cab niotices (from @Pugsley). A similar set of transfers for the Westerns is desirable and, unfortunately, Martin has no current plans for such delicacies.
Given the number of JLTRT Westerns, Wizzos, Cl.52s which have featured on WT topics, what have other builders done for either the cab dials or the handbrake notice (on the cab rear bulkhead)?
thank you, Graham
Given the number of JLTRT Westerns, Wizzos, Cl.52s which have featured on WT topics, what have other builders done for either the cab dials or the handbrake notice (on the cab rear bulkhead)?
thank you, Graham
alcazar
Guest
Not done mine yet, but I have one from JLTRT and one from Heljan awaiting me having the mojo to do something with them.
I'd be up for some transfers, if anyone else wants some, we could get some done together? I got some nice speed-in-gear ones for my stable of 03's from @Pugsley ........perhaps we could band together and get some Wezzie ones done?
On another note, MMP kits contain laser plotted dials for the cab instruments etc, and you can illuminate them from behind to make a fantastic display.
Is there anyone on here who could make those for us? I am unsure what their making ensues? Laser cutting? Laser printing?
I'd be up for some transfers, if anyone else wants some, we could get some done together? I got some nice speed-in-gear ones for my stable of 03's from @Pugsley ........perhaps we could band together and get some Wezzie ones done?
On another note, MMP kits contain laser plotted dials for the cab instruments etc, and you can illuminate them from behind to make a fantastic display.
Is there anyone on here who could make those for us? I am unsure what their making ensues? Laser cutting? Laser printing?
Pugsley
Western Thunderer
Are you two ganging up on me? 
Jeff - If you put my decals over some clear styrene, sprayed white, you should be able to illuminate them from behind, although not too brightly as it will wash out the black parts.
I think most of what I've already done is suitable - I'd need to do the RPM gauge and the handbrake decal, but all the other gauges are common to the existing sheet. The only other notices in the cab, from memory, are the ones about the track circuit clips - all of the other notices such as no smoking, etc, are in the cross corridor behind the cab, so not visible.
I'll do them, it just might take a little while and I'll probably need some measurements from you. Prompt me in January
Jeff - If you put my decals over some clear styrene, sprayed white, you should be able to illuminate them from behind, although not too brightly as it will wash out the black parts.
I think most of what I've already done is suitable - I'd need to do the RPM gauge and the handbrake decal, but all the other gauges are common to the existing sheet. The only other notices in the cab, from memory, are the ones about the track circuit clips - all of the other notices such as no smoking, etc, are in the cross corridor behind the cab, so not visible.
I'll do them, it just might take a little while and I'll probably need some measurements from you. Prompt me in January
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Our Cl.37 has been running around for some months with "naked" ABC motor bogies and the time has come to clad the brass bogie frames with the resin mouldings from the JLTRT kit. I have removed the bogie end-beams from the JLTRT bogie inner moulding and assembled, temporarily, an outer bogie frame from two ends and two sides (from the JLTRT resin mouldings). Enter "the problem of the day".
The distance between the resin end-beams is less than the distance over the ends of the ABC motor bogie... by between 2mm and 3mm. This observation is as likely to impact Finescale modellers as those who build to S7 standards... being independent of wheel B2B. I could remove material from the inner face of each end-beam to give the necessary clearance... although that action does reduce the strength of the beams. The design of the motor bogie is such that reducing the overall length of the brass frame requires serious engineering and that is beyond me.
Anyone here motorised a JLTRT Cl.37 with an ABC motor bogie?
thanks, Graham
(going to jump in and get going, if the deep end then.... progress continues here )
The distance between the resin end-beams is less than the distance over the ends of the ABC motor bogie... by between 2mm and 3mm. This observation is as likely to impact Finescale modellers as those who build to S7 standards... being independent of wheel B2B. I could remove material from the inner face of each end-beam to give the necessary clearance... although that action does reduce the strength of the beams. The design of the motor bogie is such that reducing the overall length of the brass frame requires serious engineering and that is beyond me.
Anyone here motorised a JLTRT Cl.37 with an ABC motor bogie?
thanks, Graham
(going to jump in and get going, if the deep end then.... progress continues here )
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Dog Star
Western Thunderer
I have added photos of the ABC motor bogie and JLTRT bogie inner / outer frames to my workbench topic.
When life gets tough with one of the models being built currently then a visit to the Shelf Queens Store is always a good thing. So this weekend some thought has been given to the next JLTRT diesel to visit the workbench - a re-furb Class 50 to be out-shopped in Large Loco Blue.
Fitting "lights" to a Cl.50 looks like a nightmare compared to a diesel with a bonnet / nose such as a Cl.37 and that is down to the limited space between the inner face of the cab front and the control desk. The Cl.50 cab appears to have around 2.5mm of space between the nose and the desk, that measurement compares unfavourably with the 4.5mm depth of some 2mm lighthouse LEDs which are being used for the marker lights of the Cl.37. I might consider making recesses in the control desk moulding - not high on my list of "things to do". So what other options do I have?
I recollect that Martin (@Pugsley) has used other products for his JLTRT diesel, such as coloured lenses from 'Little-Cars', fibre optic pipe, and surface mount diodes. Might this collection of parts be a way of providing lighting for a Cl.50?
* Red lenses inserted into holes drilled through the cab moulding;
* A short section of 2mm light guide behind the lens;
* A SMD mounted on the rear face of the control desk and in close proximity to the inner-most end of the light guide.
Thoughts on this approach?
Alternatives?
Whilst I am asking this question in respect of a Class 50, I suspect that other "flat-front" diesels from JLTRT have similar problems (for example, Cl.24, 25, 26, 27... maybe even Cl.22).
regards, Graham
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
Hi Graham,
many thanks for raising this topic as I shall probably be facing a similar situation when I get stuck into the 22 that I ordered at Kettering on Saturday. When I put the red/white LEDs into the Class 121 I filed them to shape/fit to suit the hole that was already in the bodywork. Whilst only a small amount was removed from the sides, I needed to file a goodly amount off the end so that there was only a slight protrusion into the bezel to hold them in position. I had mounted the LEDs onto a piece of veroboard faced with black plasticard as a light baffle and the resultant board acts as the vertical face of the control desk
What I am trying to put forward is that dependant on where the filament is within the LED, you might be able to reduce the length of the LED to suit your situation without resorting to an involved wiring exercise.
I trust that you managed to stay awake reading this rambling.
cheers
Mike
many thanks for raising this topic as I shall probably be facing a similar situation when I get stuck into the 22 that I ordered at Kettering on Saturday. When I put the red/white LEDs into the Class 121 I filed them to shape/fit to suit the hole that was already in the bodywork. Whilst only a small amount was removed from the sides, I needed to file a goodly amount off the end so that there was only a slight protrusion into the bezel to hold them in position. I had mounted the LEDs onto a piece of veroboard faced with black plasticard as a light baffle and the resultant board acts as the vertical face of the control desk
What I am trying to put forward is that dependant on where the filament is within the LED, you might be able to reduce the length of the LED to suit your situation without resorting to an involved wiring exercise.
I trust that you managed to stay awake reading this rambling.
cheers
Mike
richard carr
Western Thunderer
Graham
Heljan use surface mounted LEDs for theirs on the 26 and 31.
You can buy these with wires attached, I have a few and I will take a picture of them when I get home. They came from Germany but I think it was someone on here that provided the contact details, but it may have been RMWeb.
You could take the easy route and not bother thats my favourite !
Richard
Heljan use surface mounted LEDs for theirs on the 26 and 31.
You can buy these with wires attached, I have a few and I will take a picture of them when I get home. They came from Germany but I think it was someone on here that provided the contact details, but it may have been RMWeb.
You could take the easy route and not bother thats my favourite !
Richard
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Thank you, yes please.
True.
However:- I would know... you would know... and so would a fair number of WTers.
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Thank you Mike,
My first attempt at solving this problem was to obtain some 2mm lighthouse LEDs so that the circular portion of the housing goes through the hole in the cab front with the LED filament in the rectangular portion of the device... and carefully bend the two plated wires through 90 degrees. This approach needs about 5mm behind the rear surface of the cab nose to accomodate the filament and the curved portion of the connections, that space might be achieved by producing a recess in the control desk.
Any suggestions as to how to produce a 5mm wide by 3mm deep recess in the control desk moulding?
Pugsley
Western Thunderer
That was probably me, and they're available from here:
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/ledbaron?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
On a flat fronted loco, I'd do exactly what I did with the 37 - there's no fibre optics, though, the light aperture was opened out to fit the LED straight in with the lenses fitted in front. I wanted to capture the look of a lens with a bulb behind it - somehow the lighthouse LEDs always just look like LEDs to me!
OzzyO
Western Thunderer
Have a look in this link it may help you,
http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Infrared-LED-Devices
If your doing a refurb. 50 you will also want the lazer "beam" head light. IIRC the head light and the tail light were in the same holes so you will want red/white LEDs and please only use the red lights when the loco is running light or is at the back of a train, not when it's the train loco.
OzzyO.
http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Infrared-LED-Devices
If your doing a refurb. 50 you will also want the lazer "beam" head light. IIRC the head light and the tail light were in the same holes so you will want red/white LEDs and please only use the red lights when the loco is running light or is at the back of a train, not when it's the train loco.
OzzyO.