7mm David Andrews Princess - 6206 Princess Marie Louise

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Lack of modelling mojo not withstanding I have managed to progress this a little in between life getting in the way.

First, I modified all the etched hangers in the kit to accept the brake 3D printed shoes

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Then having stripped all the previously built brake gear down into components parts as needed, I started to fit the new shoes/hangers to the tender first

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More to follow as it happens.
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
More progress has been made this week and the loco and tender brakes are now complete.

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The loco brakes were a bit more interesting in that I didn't have to re-drill the mounting holes. However the brake hanger etches have a square hole in one end and a round one in the other so using some 1mm square bar, some tube and some 0.9mm rod I made up some mounting brackets

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These fitted nicely except for the rear pair which wouldn't fit between the rear wheelsets without touching. Not to be deterred I rounded the end of a couple of pieces of 1mm square bar and fitted that instead. I also had to shorten the brake cross beams by approximately 1.5mm either side so that the brake hangers didn't splay out beyond the wheels.

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The red bits are electrical sleeve, there to retain the brake hangers until I am confident that I can solder them up.
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
After fitting the brakes I decided to return to the loco body to move that forward.

That started out as a one forward one back because I had to re-solder the boiler section as for some reason the soldered seam had failed. Still better that it failed now than when the loco is finished. That little job done I looked in the box and sighted the chimney casting so decided to tackle that.

There was quite a bit of discussion about the David Andrews Chimney, or to be more accurate about all the chimneys in the kit's that are/have been available for a Princess Royal with the consensus being that none of them were accurate. Mike Hopkins was commissioned to draw up and have cast an accurate replacement (by David Hill at Gladiator I think). Noting that I was building a Princess Mike dropped me an email and asked if I would like a replacement for the kit provided casting and I took him up on it.

Now I have to confess, having used one of Mike's chimney castings on the Class 5A, that I am not wild about the way that Mike designs the flare/inner chimney. I understand that being 3D printed the chimney needs to be supported and that those supports have to be cleaned up so adding them at the bottom makes sense I much prefer to remove the usual screw thread/stub from the bottom of the chimney, drill it out and them use the smoke box wrapped in wet and dry to smooth out the flare to make it sit on the smoke box properly.

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Although I forgot to take a photo of the Princess chimney before I started I had a J63 chimney in stock (for when I get around to swapping the lopsided one off my J63). The Princess chimney was similar to the photo above in that it had the remains of the casting sprue attached to one edge of the hole and the remains of the supports around the bottom of the inner chimney and the flare.

I started by cutting off the casting sprue and then had made a start on the laborious job of filing out the rest when I thought that I could pop it in the lathe and use a tiny 3mm boring bar to remove the remains of the sprue from inside the chimney. To stop the rim getting marked I wrapped it in a strip taken from an aluminium drinks can (I have a few cut down cans in the workshop for just such tasks). Suitably protected I put the chimney in a collet and centred it as best I could (it still had a slight wobble). Then working steadily taking 0.1mm cuts I bored out the remains of the sprue. I also shortened the inner chimney by approximately 2mm which took care of the stubs of the supports.

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That done I used a diamond coated mini drill attachment to grind of the remains of the stubs on the base of the flare.

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At this point the hole in the smokebox is only about 1mm in diameter and I was wonder about the best way to enlarge it as the inner chimney is just over 10mm in diameter. I decided to use the practice smokebox that I ad created to ensure that I could successfully roll the thick material of the smokebox.
As luck would have it I have a 5mm centre drill which up to now has been too big for anything that I might have needed. It was perfect to drill a hole and then use the countersink part of the bit to slowly open out the hole in the smokebox until the chimney would fit.

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This confirmed that the chimney would sit flush on the smokebox so now I just need to open out the hole in the proper smokebox to suit.
 

neaston

Western Thunderer
Why not just use a 3d print rather than a casting?
You won't be able to tell the difference under paint as it's much easier to fit to the smokebox.
No use for some GWR locomotives though.
Nick
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Hi Nick,

I had a similar discussion with Mick Davies (Mickoo) at Stafford (albeit not about this specific model).

The simplest answer in this case, is that I wasn't offered a 3D print, only the brass casting. I must admit it's some time ago and it never occurred to me to ask for a resin print instead.
 

Paul Tomlinson

Western Thunderer
Hi Nick,

I had a similar discussion with Mick Davies (Mickoo) at Stafford (albeit not about this specific model).

The simplest answer in this case, is that I wasn't offered a 3D print, only the brass casting. I must admit it's some time ago and it never occurred to me to ask for a resin print instead.
Hello Rob. I'm a traditionalist and would greatly prefer a brass fitting compared to a resin one, it's more robust and I have no doubt over it's long-term stability. I'm a big fan of what Mike Hopkins is doing, using a 3D print to provide a superior master.
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Hello Rob. I'm a traditionalist and would greatly prefer a brass fitting compared to a resin one, it's more robust and I have no doubt over it's long-term stability. I'm a big fan of what Mike Hopkins is doing, using a 3D print to provide a superior master.
Hi Paul,

I must admit, that I lean that way myself but Mick did put up quite a convincing argument when we discussed it.
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Since my last update the loco seems to have fought back a little. I am not sure whether it was that I had folded the sides of the cab floor too tightly but the sides needed trimming down to fit. That said it's a snug fit in the cab so it's probably unlikely.

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My next task which again needed a lot of work for very little to show for it was the upper frame sections that fit between the splashers. Each piece was between 1mm and 2mm two long so they had to be patiently cut and filed until they fitted in the space between the splashers and seated properly.

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Still a bit of cleaning up to do.

Having sorted the cab floor I looked at the upright pillar that support the cab doors. These have a pair of slots in them to take a half etched tabs on hinges of the cab doors. Again I am not sure if it was me but once I had folded the small section that is bent at right angles the slot was completely closed. To be fair that wasn't an issues as I had already decided based on past experience to make the cab doors removable.
This I did by soldering a couple of short lengths of micro bore tube in between where the holes should be (even though the holes were no longer visible, there was a half etched recess). Then I used a small broach as a spacer and folded the half teched tabs on the doors around to make a hinge and inserted a cut down dressmakers pin to hold the doors in position while leaving them free to move and removable by lifting out the pin.

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Next I fitted the rear cab roof arch and started to form the cab roof.

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The cab roof was a challenge in it's own right and required quite a bit of coaxing to get it to curve to the right shape being half teched nickel I was very conscious of it wanting to crease across the top where the two strips either side of the opening are.

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In the end to get it to stay in shape with a chance at being soldered to the top of the cab I used a piece of scrap etch as a former/stay. this fits just inside the rear arch frame. I dropped lucky in that where one of the sections of arch was removed from the etch left this strip which was at exactly the same curvature as the front/rear so perfect for the task once the cusp etc was cleaned up.

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Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
More work on the roof in the last few days, starting with the roof shutters. You get a pair of half etched pieces to represent the shutters which you can solder in position open, closed or somewhere in between. Looking at the GA in the Wild Swan volume and a really good photo that I found online of Princess Margaret Rose I thought that it shouldn't be too difficult to make the shutters slide.

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While I was at it I added the really prominent riveted strips across the middle of the roof and a pair of handles for the shutters.

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Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
My next plan was to dress the back head, a part of the model that I always enjoy. Sadly when checking the parts it seems that we are missing a sprue or two which contain many of the bits need. The plan is to source replacements from Ragstone and until I get those I did a bit more of the cab internals.
There are a couple of took boxes within the cab which David has done the same size however the trusty GA reveals that the right hand side box was only half the size of the one on the left. A fact that I didn't discover until I had folded and soldered it together. A quick bit of piercing saw action soon had it the right size.

The left hand box has a nice half etched representation of the door to which I added a 4mm scale handrail knob as the door knob (I filled the hole with some rod first). The other box didn't have anything supplied so I added a false top and hinges to it.

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It was my intention to fit the backhead to the floor and have it removeable as one unit but the toolboxes as they are don't sit close enough to the cab side sheets. I will probably end up removing them them from the floor and fixing the floor and them in permanently leaving the backhead to be fixed later.

I also fitted the fall plate which is a nice design and easy to fit while making it rise and fall.

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Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Following my previous post fellow Guild member Chris Simpson contacted offline me to tell me how he had articulated his doors both to the body and in the middle. Chris's method was to use a piece of tube and a piece of rod. Never one to shy from the challenge I used Chris's method to articulate the middle of the doors which is a massive improvement in my opinion and one I shall use again in the future.

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Here's a shot of them in situ in the cab.
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Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
More done on the Princess in the last day or two.

Fitted the window stays above the windows in the cab these are extra from now extinct HobbyHorse Range.

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I also fitted the Chimney and the boiler bands. Normally Warren doesn't like boiler bands fitting as he prefers to do them to scale using transfers. The problem in this case is that they are designed to be fitted to hide the joints between the smokebox and boiler and once you add one you need to add the others...
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Finally I am working on cleaning up the top feed casting which although nicely shaped had quite a castings step in it which is taking a bit of work to clean up. Here it is part way through the clean up process.

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Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Next I added some details to the boiler, starting with the boiler band cleats. The instructions advise you to tie them together with 0.5mm brass rod but I couldn't resist adding some adjusting nuts to finish them off.

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A curios fact picked up from the Wild Swan GA drawings is that on the Combustion Chamber boiler fitted to 6206 in the time period depicted (and others at various points) the front two cleats which were fitted under the boiler, were offset by 3" from the centreline.

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The one at the rear of the boiler and the front band on the firebox were fitted on top.

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I then added some of the details to the smokebox

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OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Rob,

photos of brass on a white background don't really work more so if your using flash. But what I can see looks nice.

ATB

OzzyO
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Rob,

photos of brass on a white background don't really work more so if your using flash. But what I can see looks nice.

ATB

OzzyO
Thanks Paul, I'm using studio lights rather than flash but I am playing around trying to get things better lit and as you observe what works for some subjects doesn't work for others.
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
This week has mainly been about returning to the elephant in the room, the Firebox. There had been some discussion on here some time ago about issues with the resin casting and I must admit I didn't get 'it' and after a (very!) rudimentary measure up, it didn't seem far out so I left it at that.
Fast forward to last week and Nick Dunhill posted on my thread on the GOG forum and mentioned how far out his had been on all the ones that he built (he built four in total) and how much work it had been to rectify the problems.

The talk also mentioned a whitemetal cast firebox produced by DJH for Gladiator (prior to David and Trisha buying the range). After seeing the discussion the guy that I am building it for rang me and told me that he had one of the Gladiator/DJH fireboxes which he would send me.

Once I had it in hand, I imported some GA's into Fusion from the Wild Swann book scaled them and started to compare the castings to the real thing.

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Once I had done the comparisons it all clicked into place.

Because the ends of my casting were at 90 degrees to the footplate I thought that I had better castings once I realised that Nick had lowered the front by circa 2mm and raised the back by another 1mm it made sense why his front and rear face were no longer at right angles to the footplate and why the subsequent chopping and gap filling.

Nick's advice was to scratch build one or get Mick Davies to draw one up and print it for me. I have initially opted to have a go at drawing it myself.

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This is where I got to after the first session. Subsequent study made me realise that I needed to bring the curve under the front down a bit.
After my second session I had this - I did a short video capture of Fusion as being easier than taking multiple renders which I was struggling with.

 
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