7mm David Andrews Princess - 6206 Princess Marie Louise

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Further to my post on the MOK 8F thread I also made front lamp Irons for the smokebox door on the Princess and the 8F

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Once milled I put the bracket iron part down in the vice then annealed the support bracket and gently bent it over at an angle. I left two of them soldered together at this stage. I have another 8 to cut out for stock so I will do the same to a couple of them.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
That firebox looks very good, Rob.

I guess it begs the question of “where to stop?”

Smokebox? With chimney? Barrel? dome?

I guess @Giles has already pretty much done a whole loco. It’s a case of working out which technology to use for each component. And I think that’s where @mickoo was a few months back. The world is changing again. At least my Scotch is 12 years old…
 
Rob,

Did you use any dimensions that you pulled from the DA firebox other than the overall length and barrel diameter? I'm in the same situation you with the slope on my resin version is much greater than the drawings in the Wild Swan book. I'm currently trying to draw it in Fusion 360 using the actual dimensions shown on the various diagrams and cross-sections but I'm worried that I will end up with a prototypically accurate drawing that won't fit the model.
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Hi Gavin,

Not from the resin firebox specifically, but I did double check that the cut outs in the bottom of the ring would ensure that it fit between the splashers. I also checked that where I had my upsweep of the base at the front sides would again fit over/between the splashers.

It is very much a compromise between prototypical accuracy and working with what you have already in the kit.
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
It's all been a little quiet on the Princess front. I got the second test print back and to my dismay there was a large* gap between the front ring and the front of the firebox

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*I say large it wasn't that big in reality but certainly too big too disguise.

I returned to the drawing board and then discovered that I had misread the drawing so I drew it again. After my redraw there was still a 0.3mm gap at either side so I took a copy of that design and hacked it to correct it.

Although I managed it I wasn't happy with the way I had gone about it so I took a second copy and tried to adjust the sketches but because I had made the fundamental error of adding all the details before the adding front ring which fits inside the kit boiler and checking the interface between that and the firebox front. The net result of altering the sketches to make them wider created so many errors that in the end I gave up trying to correct them and started again.

This time I drew the basics and made sure that the overall dimensions were correct and worked together before I added the details. It's now on it's way for what I hop will be the final print.

The good news is that I didn't need to redraw the lower sections of the firebox because I checked that they still fit as I was going along.
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
I seem to have been really busy with real life and there's not a huge amount to show for the work on the Princess (other than the drawing of the firebox).
I have returned to the chassis while I await castings for the back head and the firebox print - Royal Fail seem to be keeping their reputation intact FB posted a week last Saturday and replacement castings from Ragstone posted a week yesterday, no sign of either yet.

On the rear axle which is to be driven there isn't a great deal of room on the axle for the gearbox, hornblocks and taper pin. It turned out that after trying everything the taper pin actually sat under the left hand hornblock. Initially I tried cutting down the taper pin so that it just went through the axle and would spin inside the horn block. I obviously didn't make it a tight enough fit as it went walk about. Thankfully I do have a few spare taper pin so I was able to replace it but I didn't want the same thing to happen again so after some thought I hit upon the idea to thin down that hornblock. I took it out and milled 1mm off the rear of it. Which you should be able to see from comparing the first two photos

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Next I moved onto fitting the representation of the inside motion. I had to solder the eccentric straps together and then make some location points for the slide bars and lotion plate.

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I have done this with a couple of strips of scrap etch and the plan is to mill a couple of small angle plates to allow the cylinder front to be screwed in place. I will take some more detailed phots once I have finished this.

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Subject to retaining it, I have achieved what I set out to, you can see the cross heads through the openings in the frames, with a small amount of visible movement when the axle is rotated.
 

Richard Gawler

Western Thunderer

Please Rob, a question - this is not meant to seem critical but rather to help me to get a sense of proportion for my own attempts.

In your first photo (above) the solder hasn't flowed completely between the frame and the bearing plate inside the hornblock. Obviously the job is perfectly sound, but would you usually expect to leave this, knowing the paint will hide it, or perhaps reflow it later? I have some gaps like this on my own efforts. Many thanks.
 

Chas Levin

Western Thunderer
Morning Rob, lovely work on the inside motion (still on my to-do list) but can I please ask what is the function of that taper pin? Is it there to retain the wheel and its quartering? It looks in the photo to be too far inboard for that to be its purpose, but it may be the view's perspective and is the pin in fact aiming at quite an acute angle outwards and through the wheel boss...?
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Rob, Looks like you might have to take off a little bit more to fully clear the taper pin?
Dave.
Hi Dave,

Yes it needs further trimming, there is about 5mm of pin sticking out the other side. The photo was taken on first fit when I was checking to see if I had milled enough off the hornblock.
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Please Rob, a question - this is not meant to seem critical but rather to help me to get a sense of proportion for my own attempts.

In your first photo (above) the solder hasn't flowed completely between the frame and the bearing plate inside the hornblock. Obviously the job is perfectly sound, but would you usually expect to leave this, knowing the paint will hide it, or perhaps reflow it later? I have some gaps like this on my own efforts. Many thanks.
Hi Richard,

When looking at it at normal viewing distances it's barely noticeable so I didn't plan on doing anything further with it - I will probably give the solder residue a bit more of a scrape now that my missing scraper has turned up. Said scraper is ground from an old needle file and where did I find it, yes you guessed it in a jar with files in....
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Morning Rob, lovely work on the inside motion (still on my to-do list) but can I please ask what is the function of that taper pin? Is it there to retain the wheel and its quartering? It looks in the photo to be too far inboard for that to be its purpose, but it may be the view's perspective and is the pin in fact aiming at quite an acute angle outwards and through the wheel boss...?
Hi Chas,

Yes it's to retain the wheel and quartering. The wheels are Alan Harris and have been turned and mounted directly on the axles unlike Slaters/Markits types where they have square ended axles to take care of the quartering. I must admit to them being a first for me. Although I have two or three sets of wheels in kits that are turned/mounted on axles with taper pins I haven't actually fitted any of them yet so I am feeling my way along with it especially on the driving axle.
 

Chas Levin

Western Thunderer
Hi Chas,

Yes it's to retain the wheel and quartering. The wheels are Alan Harris and have been turned and mounted directly on the axles unlike Slaters/Markits types where they have square ended axles to take care of the quartering. I must admit to them being a first for me. Although I have two or three sets of wheels in kits that are turned/mounted on axles with taper pins I haven't actually fitted any of them yet so I am feeling my way along with it especially on the driving axle.
Thanks Rob; I entertained myself during a dental check-up this morning by trying to think what else that pin might be for. I suspect the dentist must have wondered why I looked so thoughtful...
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
I am still working away on the details, some time back John Dale pointed out that I had the front boiler slightly band too far from the smokebox so having checked photos and seen what he meant. I moved it as far as I could. It's now sat on the very rear edge of the smokebox/boiler joint rather than straddling them as I had it initially.

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Next I turned what are probably the smallest part I have done to date. A challenge but satisfying.


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This is the working drawing - Fusion in it's wisdom seems to get a few of the sizes slightly under or over when creating drawings despite having defined dimensions in the sketches. So they are rounded to the full size i.e. 1.75mm for the overall diameter.

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Finally with my obligatory 5 pence coin.

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