7mm David Andrews Princess - 6206 Princess Marie Louise

Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Thanks Simon,
I had noted that and corrected it, but better to have it pointed out than head scratching later trying to work out why it won't run right.
 
Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Thanks Ian,

I do like your idea for ride height adjustment too. Simple but effective.

This is to pick up one side from the loco and the other from the tender at the request of the gent that I am building it for.
 
Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
The last few days have been spent assembling the chassis frames ready for detailing.

I had to trim away sections of some the frame spacers to accommodate the thicker cast spring hangers, the horn guides and the gearbox. Most of this adjustment was done prior to assembling the frames but the cut out for the gear box was done afterwards. The mill came in handy for removing the bulk of the cut out, I just needed to square up the round corners of the slot with a file.









 
OzzyO

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Nice looking build.
But I think that if you changed the colour of the background of you photos they could look better as you are getting a lot of reflected light onto the job. A dark green can be a good background colour.

ATB

OzzyO.
 
Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
After a bit of fiddling about I got the cylinder front and motion plate for the inside motion made and assembled.

The fiddling about was my own fault, I initially made the motion plate too shallow and therefore it would only accept the slide bars at their very ends and I needed to mount it further along. I was also considering adding the valve guides and after spending some time fettling the rather misshapen castings, I realised that they wouldn't actually be seen so decided not to go any further. After considering them I had started to remake the cylinder front plate in order to accept them but in the end used it for the replacement motion plate so it worked out perfect in the end if a little convoluted getting there.

One beauty of having a mill is that cutting out the centre section of the motion plate was so much easier than using a piercing saw and files as I have done in the past.





Then I needed some pins for the cross heads, so I went the whole hog and made some castle nuts.





 
Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
The last few days have been one step forward and two steps back...

The wheels have been drilled 8BA as the guy that I am building it for prefers the thicker material.

I didn't have any steel 8BA screws so I turned some rod down and threaded it 8BA. Next on auto pilot I made some 8BA crankpin nuts.



Then of course I did what I should have done first and looked at photos...





So far I have made a pair for the rear.



I have also made some rear plates for the balance weights but I haven't taken any photos yet.

While I was at the lathe, I decided to make a replacement vacuum cylinder. The casting supplied was actually one of the better castings but it was not quite the right shape and undernourished when compared to the drawing.









A fun time was had turning a new one and dressing it with studs/nuts. Those who are paying attention will note the odd arrangement of studs which I took from the drawing. I had an interesting time working out all the different angles which equated to: four at 45 degrees and the other three at 56.25 degrees from those.
 
michael mott

michael mott

Western Thunderer
Lovely work on the Vacuum cylinder, what is the dimension of the hex on the nuts? did you have stock or did you machine them/ file them?

Michael
 
OzzyO

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Rob Pulham said:


A fun time was had turning a new one and dressing it with studs/nuts. Those who are paying attention will note the odd arrangement of studs which I took from the drawing. I had an interesting time working out all the different angles which equated to: four at 45 degrees and the other three at 56.25 degrees from those.
Click to expand...

Rob,

a nice job on the steam (not vac for the engine) brake cylinder, but some thing looks to be wrong with your maths. 45 x 4 = 180, 56.25 x 3 = 168.75 added together = 348.75 deg. not the 360 deg. that it should be. If it's seven equally spaced bolts it would be 51.43 deg.
I did go to have a look at my Princess Anne G/A drawing but I could not got to them, but I would have expected them to have used a six or eight pattern for the bolts. Six is at 60 deg. spacing and eight at 45 deg. spacing.

Glad that you have changed the background colour.

ATB

OzzyO.
 
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Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
OzzyO said:
Rob,

a nice job on the steam (not vac for the engine) brake cylinder, but some thing looks to be wrong with your maths. 45 x 4 = 180, 56.25 x 3 = 168.75 added together = 348.75 deg. not the 360 deg. that it should be. If it's seven equally spaced bolts it would be 51.43 deg.
I did go to have a look at my Princess Anne G/A drawing but I could not got to them, but I would have expected them to have used a six or eight pattern for the bolts. Six is at 60 deg. spacing and eight at 45 deg. spacing.

Glad that you have changed the background colour.

ATB

OzzyO.
Click to expand...

Hi Paul,

They are definitely not evenly spaced. My mistake, I misread my notes when I typed up the post.

From the remaining 180 degrees, I moved around 13.5 and then did the three holes at 51 degrees from each other leaving the remaining 13.5 to centre them in the 180.

Thanks for the note on the steam rather than vacuum cylinder.:thumbs:
 
Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
michael mott said:
Lovely work on the Vacuum cylinder, what is the dimension of the hex on the nuts? did you have stock or did you machine them/ file them?

Michael
Click to expand...
Hi Michael,

The hex on the cylinder studs is approx. 1.2mm. I say approximately because they were hand filed from microbore tube using a hex headed pin vice.

The hex on the wheels nuts was done on the mill using a collet block.
 
michael mott

michael mott

Western Thunderer
Thanks Rob, I am not familiar with the micro-bore tube, but the hex headed pin vice is a real boon I have a couple of them one with loose collets inside and the other with fixed ends.

Michael
 
OzzyO

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello Rob,

I think that we are both right and wrong. The steam cylinder does indeed have seven bolts but I don't think that it's for holding the end plate in place. I reckon it's for holding the cylinder in place on the frames, having the bolts at such a pattern you could not fit them the wrong way around. I've looked at the tender frame plan with no cylinder in place and it has the same pattern of holes. This is the drawing that made me start thinking about the fixing bolts.
IMG_4271.JPG

The part of the loco frames that I think we are both talking about. Looking at this part of the drawing again this is only the frame plan so it's only showing the hole drilling points. When you look at the full pipe and rod drawing you can see that steam pipe from the footplate enters on one of the front quarters.
IMG_4270.JPG

Just for completeness these drawings are how the brakes work on a L.M.S. and B.R. standard loco. This is the book that I got the drawing from, they do turn up on Flea bay at times if you get chance to get one do it.
IMG_4272.JPG

So you can understand the colours.
IMG_4267.JPG

The brake gear.
IMG_4268.JPG

The standard L.M.S. dual brake valve.
IMG_4269.JPG

Hope this helps,

OzzyO.
 
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Rob Pulham

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
Thanks Paul, your input is much appreciated.

I do have a copy of the Handbook For Railway Steam Locomotive Enginemen but I can't find the first drawing in your post (fig19 in my copy is of a water gauge with test cocks so I wonder if I have a different edition - mine is dated 1957). I can find figs 63, 67 and the colour identification chart though.

The second drawing snip is the same as the one that I took the number/placings of the studs from. Now you have pointed it out, I agree that it does depict the mounting bolts rather than those on the top (or bottom) of the cylinder but I am not going back to change mine now.

Thanks again.
 
OzzyO

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
I've been looking at the G/A frame drawing a bit more to try and figure out what some of the drawing marks are for and this is what I've come up with but I could be wrong.
+ a riveted joint.
O looks to be a bolt hole.
O with a small o inside is a tapped hole on a modern drawing, but on these drawing it could be one of the following
1) a counter sunk hole,
2) a fitted rivet,
3) a tapped hole with a lock nut on the back.

More digging is required to be able to be sure.

ATB

OzzyO.

PS. sorry for the confusion Rob but Fig. 19 is in this book,
IMG_4274.JPG

IMG_4273.JPG

The bible for all ex L.M.S. steam men, it some times turns up on Flea bay if you see a copy look at getting one.
 
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OzzyO

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello Larry,

so B.R. were still issuing the L.M.S. book into the 1960s? That must show how good it was.

ATB

OzzyO.
 
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