adrian
Flying Squad
Fairy nuff - you've obviously done your homework - but that said it still looks odd to me.Simon, Adrian have some faith in me
Banana shaped scan
Designing For Laser Cutting
- Thread starter 28ten
- Start date
westernfan
Western Thunderer
Coming on a treat 
Maybe a clump or two of moss in the guttering ,and is it east facing sides that attract algae ?
Maybe a clump or two of moss in the guttering ,and is it east facing sides that attract algae ?
28ten
Guv'nor
Alge will be coming later along with some stinky waterComing on a treat
the window side is SW facing so most of the moss and damp will be on the rear, along with the down pipes.Its one of those where you need a picture handy
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
The local army base at Welford park have helped to remove the ply boarding, I believe it is now on the way to Bath...
no doubt they were 'yanked' off
cheers
Mike
Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
I like the boarded up windows, if this box was out of use you could justify it being partially boarded up by having the rest of the boards leant against the box as if someone was actually in the process of doing it.
Have you though about some broken windows ?...... I was lucky enough to visit a few closed stations in the early seventys & most glass was smashed by then.... BTW rusty corrugated steel was popular for boarding up windows & doors then.
Phill
Have you though about some broken windows ?...... I was lucky enough to visit a few closed stations in the early seventys & most glass was smashed by then.... BTW rusty corrugated steel was popular for boarding up windows & doors then.
Phill
28ten
Guv'nor
My original plan was something like this (from http://www.abingdonbranch.co.uk/ )
But i got distracted by the idea of the interior
But I could board it up like this (without the blutack!) which would look the part beside a MFYP Warship 
To be honest now I have all the parts drawn it would be easy to do both
But i got distracted by the idea of the interior
But I could board it up like this (without the blutack!) which would look the part beside a MFYP Warship To be honest now I have all the parts drawn it would be easy to do both
28ten
Guv'nor
I have been experimenting with broken glass panes bur its WIP at the momentI like the boarded up windows, if this box was out of use you could justify it being partially boarded up by having the rest of the boards leant against the box as if someone was actually in the process of doing it.
Have you though about some broken windows ?...... I was lucky enough to visit a few closed stations in the early seventys & most glass was smashed by then.... BTW rusty corrugated steel was popular for boarding up windows & doors then.
Phill
28ten
Guv'nor
I think it is my preferred option now. I have a nameplate which I can paint out in black
Its only 20 minutes to cut another set of parts to do another version anyway
iploffy
OC Blue Brigade
Hello Boss, I assembled the box and have come up with a few modifications see scan below
The drawing may look confusing but suffice to say the plates are full size so you can move the holes to the correct position. The 2 plates are spaced with 4 spacers between them. There is a problem with the lid it does not seal at all even with the poly run into the gaps so could you cut a thinner piece of plastic that would cover the top cover to seal it. The second smaller plate ( the motor base plate) has had the end removed this allows the bottom plate to be secured to the baseboard with the motor and spacers in situ it also removes the need for a slot to be cut into it for the motion.
The small cut out in the base plate at the back allows the base to be slid under a screw and then it is fixed into position by the 2 holes (countersunk) at the front. The whole assembly is raised of the base board by a spacer and this will keep the assembly out of any standing water. The electrics can be routed up into the box via this plate suitably sealed from underneath. This brings me to the major problem, how to transfer the drive to the point. I have surmised that if I put a Rain porch over the rod as it leaves the box this should ( if the hole is tight enough) keep it water tight.
Cheers OBIWAN
Ian
The drawing may look confusing but suffice to say the plates are full size so you can move the holes to the correct position. The 2 plates are spaced with 4 spacers between them. There is a problem with the lid it does not seal at all even with the poly run into the gaps so could you cut a thinner piece of plastic that would cover the top cover to seal it. The second smaller plate ( the motor base plate) has had the end removed this allows the bottom plate to be secured to the baseboard with the motor and spacers in situ it also removes the need for a slot to be cut into it for the motion.
The small cut out in the base plate at the back allows the base to be slid under a screw and then it is fixed into position by the 2 holes (countersunk) at the front. The whole assembly is raised of the base board by a spacer and this will keep the assembly out of any standing water. The electrics can be routed up into the box via this plate suitably sealed from underneath. This brings me to the major problem, how to transfer the drive to the point. I have surmised that if I put a Rain porch over the rod as it leaves the box this should ( if the hole is tight enough) keep it water tight.
Cheers OBIWAN
Ian
Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
You could have the base two or three inches longer at the front & have the indentations of the sleepers from where the track used to be