Designing For Laser Cutting
- Thread starter 28ten
- Start date
28ten
Guv'nor
Just to show how it will work, here are the parts for a door assembly, this might also be of interest to anybody making coach sides 
btw the 5 door pieces took 45 seconds to cut 
Door components- the center piece has an enlarged hole to trap the glazing for the door light
Assembled
From the side to show the panels
A couple of MDF wall sections center on the left and outer on the right, there should be another outer but I forgot to cut one
Layer cake
The assembled door will slide in from below
and align itself...
Turn it over and the money side
You can see the panelling and door surround and it would be easy to add another moulding ifneeded
In quite pleased with this, it is quick to assemble, easy to paint both the wall and door as it can be fitted after. full detail inside and out. I want to try a test with Basswood as that might be better for distressing, but if I were going 7mm or a maintained door then I think Rowmark would do the job.
btw the 5 door pieces took 45 seconds to cut Door components- the center piece has an enlarged hole to trap the glazing for the door light
Assembled
From the side to show the panels
A couple of MDF wall sections center on the left and outer on the right, there should be another outer but I forgot to cut one
Layer cake
The assembled door will slide in from below
and align itself...
Turn it over and the money side
You can see the panelling and door surround and it would be easy to add another moulding ifneeded
In quite pleased with this, it is quick to assemble, easy to paint both the wall and door as it can be fitted after. full detail inside and out. I want to try a test with Basswood as that might be better for distressing, but if I were going 7mm or a maintained door then I think Rowmark would do the job.
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
Fantastic.
Once I get my head around what I need for my engine shed a PM will be coming your way.
Once I get my head around what I need for my engine shed a PM will be coming your way.
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Exellent Cynric
. This laser gadget of yours is going to become very useful
. Oh by the way hows the coach partitions coming on
. This laser gadget of yours is going to become very useful. Oh by the way hows the coach partitions coming on
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
What, no keyhole?.....
Nice work nonetheless.
Regards
Dan
Nice work nonetheless.
Regards
Dan
28ten
Guv'nor
Easy to addWhat, no keyhole?.....
Nice work nonetheless.
Regards
Dan
Ill put some bricks on and bring it to Bristol
28ten
Guv'nor
I dont think I am a master of marquetry just yet but here is a version in bass wood
I lasered the same pattern as the Rowmark, carefully glued it in place with no glue under the rails and spliced them out to get the grain going in the right direction, looking at the photo I forgot the bottom rail
Next to the Rowmark rails
I shall do some weathering experiments tonight to see if it is worth the extra effort
but here is a version in bass woodI lasered the same pattern as the Rowmark, carefully glued it in place with no glue under the rails and spliced them out to get the grain going in the right direction, looking at the photo I forgot the bottom rail
Next to the Rowmark rails
I shall do some weathering experiments tonight to see if it is worth the extra effort
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
Just a small point with my joiners hat on, the bottom rail on a panelled door would be as deep as the mid-railI dont think I am a master of marquetry just yet
usually ex 9"
Excellent design Guv' I think it would work well in 7mm as well and certainly given me food for thought for when I start on the buildings for "Bow Creek"
Col.
28ten
Guv'nor
It should be the same as the middle rail, it may just be that I havent pushed the door right up. I couldnt make up my mind about a rain strip at the bottom
I think Rowmark might be better in 7mm, but it is a question of grain and texture. plastic looks very 'flat'
I shall have to try some wooden window frames, but there is no way I am doing mullions seperately Bass wood is a no brainer for the shed doors, Im trying to find methods applicable across a range of buildings and what works in 1/32 will not necessarily work in 7mm, every day is a school day Im still not entirely sure about box joints, I need to do some butresses and plinths before a final choice.
I think Rowmark might be better in 7mm, but it is a question of grain and texture. plastic looks very 'flat'
I shall have to try some wooden window frames, but there is no way I am doing mullions seperately
Bass wood is a no brainer for the shed doors, Im trying to find methods applicable across a range of buildings and what works in 1/32 will not necessarily work in 7mm, every day is a school day Im still not entirely sure about box joints, I need to do some butresses and plinths before a final choice.
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
It should be the same as the middle rail, it may just be that I havent pushed the door right up. I couldnt make up my mind about a rain strip at the bottom
I think Rowmark might be better in 7mm, but it is a question of grain and texture. plastic looks very 'flat'
I shall have to try some wooden window frames, but there is no way I am doing mullions seperately
To be honest Guv' on the real thing by the time a wooden door has been primed, undercoated and glossed it's fairly smooth, so in 7mm I think the Romark would look ok.
If you need a grained finish Lime is not bad may be a bit finer than Bass.
I like the box joints, it would be ideal for longer walls/buildings where the material is not long enough to cover in one hit.
How about a working sliding box sash
Col.
28ten
Guv'nor
How about a working sliding box sash
Col.
That would be possible, if somewhat fragile, it could be driven via a servo I guess? might be good for a greenhouse
Rowmark would be my choice for 7mm the only downer is the limited range of thickness available although I am looking into mylar for thinner pieces.I can get about 600 mm on the bed, hopefully any wall that length would have a buttress somewhere
Hopefully I can get a peeling paint finish, which is why I want wood, Lime sounds like a possibility, I will have to try and source some.
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
I know this may sound stupid but couldnt you rough the rowmark up with sandpaper/wet n dry ? to give you the grain effect. I did this with the slaters 4mm planking when i did my UCV china clay opens.
Rob
to give you the grain effect. I did this with the slaters 4mm planking when i did my UCV china clay opens.Rob
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
Guv' try these people http://www.westbourne-model.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_copy_of_Lime-Wood-For-Model-Making.html#a3759
Col
Col
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
Guv',
Timber rafters,4"x2" and ceiling joists,4"x2", normaly fixed at 16" centres, youv'e shown a collar truss, 5"x 2," and these would be bolted to the rafters, the ridge board would probably be 7"x 1 1/4"
Col
Timber rafters,4"x2" and ceiling joists,4"x2", normaly fixed at 16" centres,
youv'e shown a collar truss, 5"x 2," and these would be bolted to the rafters, the ridge board would probably be 7"x 1 1/4" Col
Old Buffer
Western Thunderer
If it's a corrugated roof then the beams would be lengthwise so the corrugations are at 90 degees to them, and this is where I could be very wrong but the gap between the beams are 1/2 the length of the sheet. In effect there is a beam at each end of the sheet for the overlap, and one in the middle. Having recently helped knock an old building down which had asbestos roof sheets about 6 foot long, there were 3 sheets to the fall and 7 cross beams. Having looked at the (leaking) roof in my garage today, they are set out the same.
Hope this helps.
Alan
Hope this helps.
Alan