Designing For Laser Cutting
- Thread starter 28ten
- Start date
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
Guv',
Looks fine but the braces should run at the same angle, lowest end on the hanging stile
Col.
Looks fine but the braces should run at the same angle, lowest end on the hanging stile
Col.
28ten
Guv'nor
Overlays and spacers for the interior done and test fitted, the walls are 1 1/2" over a scale 9" thick but I cant do much about that, just need to cut some more windows, door frame and threshold, then it is just the joinery for the roof, gutters etc.
Now where have the engine shed drawings gone?
Now where have the engine shed drawings gone?
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Hold on a mo Guv'nor, is that not a tidy for pin chucks and other similar objects which have a tendency to roll off of the bench? Seems to me that you need to start a thread "Guv'nor's Little Helpers", one post per desk holder with photos of that product... and replace the photos when the design is revised.
Do you do one that can take cup-cakes?
regards, Graham
Do you do one that can take cup-cakes?
regards, Graham
28ten
Guv'nor
Windows time!
My initial plan for 5 laminations in the wall void (see earlier post on the door) wasnt going to work as wall isnt thick enough, so another solution needed 3 laminations including glazing in the wall void and two overlays to sit inside the outer and inner wall
Pushing it to the limit the frame on the left is .75mm sq
this is then glued onto the first part of the inner wall lamination
And in place awaiting a bit of cleaning...
The nice thing is that the moulding sits over the sill and brickwork. Happy bunny with this
My initial plan for 5 laminations in the wall void (see earlier post on the door) wasnt going to work as wall isnt thick enough, so another solution needed 3 laminations including glazing in the wall void and two overlays to sit inside the outer and inner wall
Pushing it to the limit the frame on the left is .75mm sq
this is then glued onto the first part of the inner wall lamination
And in place awaiting a bit of cleaning...
The nice thing is that the moulding sits over the sill and brickwork. Happy bunny with this
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Yes mate i have to agree it looks SUPERB
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
I am confused.... I thought that the entire frame slides into place through a slot in the wall and yet the frame in the picture seems to have a multi-level surface. What has changed in the approach to getting a 3D window inset into the reveal?
regards, Graham
28ten
Guv'nor
A door ow window is made from 5 layers frame, mullions, glazing, mullions, frame - 3.75 mm and the wall core is only 2mm in this case as the wall is only 1 brick (9 inches) deep. this shot shows that I can get 2 mullions and glazing in so the frame has to be done as an overlay which is a push fit into the wall. this wouldnt be a problem with a thicker wall. Im hoping mylar (which is a thinner material) will provide a suitable solution for 7mm allowing the whole lot to slot in
Old Buffer
Western Thunderer
The whole building is spot on. This thread is getting better by the day. When will you be marketing them, and under what name?
I think "The Guv's Jedi Emporium" could be one, no doubt someone will come up with a better one.
Alan
I think "The Guv's Jedi Emporium" could be one, no doubt someone will come up with a better one.
Alan
marsa69
Western Thunderer
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
Calling Colincan you confirm that the the end Rafter would be attached using a stopped birdsmouth joint as per p141 Jaggard? if so I will need to extend the wallplates
Heard you shout Guv'
in all my time working as a chippy I have never seen it done( I have worked on 100 year old buildings and not seen it) nor have I used that method, may have been in my Grandfathers time.Just asked Master Carpenter (Dad), he says run the plate through, if it was built in war time then it would less work thus saving time
The brickies may have built as far as plate level, the rafters fitted by the chippy and then the apex of the gable ends built. In some cases I have seen the ridge board, but not always, carried on into the inner skin of brick work.
ATB. Col
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
28ten
Guv'nor
Thanks ColinHeard you shout Guv'
Just asked Master Carpenter (Dad), he says run the plate through, if it was built in war time then it would less work thus saving time
The brickies may have built as far as plate level, the rafters fitted by the chippy and then the apex of the gable ends built. In some cases I have seen the ridge board, but not always, carried on into the inner skin of brick work.
ATB. Col
Looking at Jaggard (again!) it looks a though the ridge should run from one end of the gable to the other which would make sense which makes sense after running the wall plate through.
then it is just a question of running the battens for the corrugated roof across. At this point i will deviate by making the roof from 10thou brass and soldering it to the correct pitch so it can be lifted off....
Every day is a school day
28ten
Guv'nor
The intention is to whitewash the interior walls so i need a quick way of painting the underlying brick. A quick test with red oxide primer and polyfilla for the mortar worked quite nicely, so I decided to whack a bit of white on and then take half of it off
I need to play around with the dirty wash as it is a bit all over the place, but in line with my 'mistakes and all' policy here is the current state of play
The underlying method works even if the wash is
I need to play around with the dirty wash as it is a bit all over the place, but in line with my 'mistakes and all' policy here is the current state of play
The underlying method works even if the wash is