OK, well the problem alluded to in my earlier post......
You assume when building a kit, or at least one by one of the better designers, that it is correct, buildable, and that the parts look like the real thing. It's perhaps only when something doesn't quite work that you start investigating fully, and if you're doing a mix and match from different suppliers as I am here, this happens more often than not.
Ist problem... The valve crosshead guide was too far from the bottom of the valance, and too close to the top slidebar. Solution, remove, drill new locating holes, and relocate about 1mm higher. No real problem.
2nd problem... The hole for the valve cover on the cylinders was about 2mm too low. No way would the valve spindle have located well. This may be because I had used proper slides, so the alignment was more critical, but the previous builder had enlarged the hole in the valve cover to an unacceptable degree, and left it in the wrong place. Valve cover replaced and relocated.
3rd problem... Having sorted this lot out, the gap between cylinder cover and valve cover on the cylinders was too great, but that between the valve crosshead support and the slidebars was too little. Solution.....buy an MOK 9F kit. The reason (I suspect) is that the kit included a Jubilee or Black 5 slidebar/crosshead set, and that a smaller set specific to a Patriot had not been mastered. I'm leaving this as is on this rebuild, but when I come to build a proper Patriot, I shall replace the slidebars and crossheads too.
4th problem. Having made all the adjustments above, the combination lever centre from the union link bearing to the valve crosshead bearing was too short. Solution - move a couple of holes. How can you move a hole?
On the left is the completed combination lever/valve spindle assembly. On the right you can see that the combination lever has had an additional (middle) hole drilled, and the topmost hole (which needed to be bigger) was enlarged by filing upwards rather than kept in place. The valve crosshead was thinned down at the top so that there would be room for the radius rod to be attached. The redundant hole was plugged with some tapered nickel silver rod soldered in and cleaned up, and the thickening of the combination lever round the bearing holes was filed off...
I was also able to work on the radius rod, and the last 2 pictures show the rescued one from the original build and the final version with forked ends, thinned down slides and relocated oiler, and reinforced bearing holes where it fits to the expansion link.
Richard