Easton Mill
- Thread starter Easterner
- Start date
Joe's Garage
Western Thunderer
Good to see your update Josh, looking very nice. I wondered what was going on, thought you might have gone back to 2 mm FS!!
Cheers Julian
Cheers Julian
Osgood
Western Thunderer
The instructions (ooh that’s a giveaway….yes, open cab factory livery) suggest It is a straightforward process, Graham?
Essentially being: 4 screws out to remove body, remove blanking plate to reveal Next18 DCC interface (to which the built-in speaker is presumably already connected), install a compatible decoder of your choice (they specify as an example ESU LoksoundV5 Micro 58818). They recommend using a decoder with stayalive function but give no indication of available space above/around the decoder position or elsewhere.
In due course I shall investigate what Zimo decoder will fit and where to source same loaded with Paul Chetter Activedrive - if a separate stayalive capacitor has to be disguised as a 5 gallon oil drum in the cab I’m fine with that.
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Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Precisely.... Where to put that gizmo is the important omission.
Bill Campbell
Western Thunderer
The 48DS have a battery box at the back of the left hand side of the cab. There is a photo about three quarters down this page:
Whisky Shunters
The restoration of former distillery shunters at Aviemore, starting with "Queen Anne", the Ruston 48DS (1948) from Longmorn.
whiskyshunters.blogspot.com
A tantalum capacitor (or small stack of same) of cuboidal shape should fit in this space. Do, however, note the sandbox tucked right back in the corner!
Regards.
Easterner
Western Thunderer
Morning All,
Thanks for all the comments, some feedback for you in regards to the DCC Sound conversion. I have effectively copied exactly what Digitrains recommend which is to replace the factory speaker location with a stay alive and upgraded the speaker (The factory one is okay but found it a bit tinny in comparison to the upgraded one) which I have slotted into the back of the cab, which you wouldn't know was there unless you were looking for it.
However, if you keep the factory speaker where it is, I think your could remove the metal block which the Decoder is mounted to and replace this with a plasticard frame which the Stay Alive would slot in to thus keeping it all under the body and avoiding anything being mounted in the cab.
The thing to bear in mind is the lights for the forward directional travel spot light is mounted on the PCB and follow up with a piece of perspex plastic so you would need to make sure you mounted the PCB in the correct place if doing this.
Hope this is of help,
Regards
Josh
Thanks for all the comments, some feedback for you in regards to the DCC Sound conversion. I have effectively copied exactly what Digitrains recommend which is to replace the factory speaker location with a stay alive and upgraded the speaker (The factory one is okay but found it a bit tinny in comparison to the upgraded one) which I have slotted into the back of the cab, which you wouldn't know was there unless you were looking for it.
However, if you keep the factory speaker where it is, I think your could remove the metal block which the Decoder is mounted to and replace this with a plasticard frame which the Stay Alive would slot in to thus keeping it all under the body and avoiding anything being mounted in the cab.
The thing to bear in mind is the lights for the forward directional travel spot light is mounted on the PCB and follow up with a piece of perspex plastic so you would need to make sure you mounted the PCB in the correct place if doing this.
Hope this is of help,
Regards
Josh
Easterner
Western Thunderer
The other 2 things to note are, you could use the MS581N18 "G" which I believe comes with 2 Gold Caps already built in to it so you wouldn't need an external capacitor but it was to late for me as I had already bought the decoder. I'm not sure how much bigger this decoder comes up so cannot confirm if it will fit but certainly seems like a viable option subject to checking the size.
With the "Next" Generation of Zimo chips, you are also limited to which Stay Alives you can use as unlike other Zimo chips you cannot just use a bank of Capacitors, you need to include the protection circuity externally to the chip so you will need some like a Staco or life link which is something else to find a home for!
With the "Next" Generation of Zimo chips, you are also limited to which Stay Alives you can use as unlike other Zimo chips you cannot just use a bank of Capacitors, you need to include the protection circuity externally to the chip so you will need some like a Staco or life link which is something else to find a home for!
