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Discussion in 'Area 51' started by Peter Insole, 26 December 2016.
Tony, that fearsome possibility had crossed my mind too !!
Still playing catchup, and on the making of a detail connected to the previously posted image:
Not really the best way to do it?!
While the thickness of the three pieces of steel were just right for the job, I should have considered some way of connecting them together before attempting the big squeeze!
The joggle ended up at tad uneven as the rusty old brackets shifted outwards slightly in the vice jaws during the process. Oddly enough, close examination of that previously mentioned image of the battered prototype at York reveals a fairly similar appearance, so it will do.
I also admit that the strip was cut a little on the wide side as I feared there was not an awful lot of meat for drilling so near to the edge of the door. It has to function as well as being pretty!
Once again, two small machine screws were dug out of the collection, although they were not identical, their heads were roughly the same size!
This time, they had to be cut short and hammered flush on the rear as they sat a bit close to the contact point with the firehole rim. The bashed in slots could also be hidden with filler, which I am sure would be fine forever, unless of course some hapless soul does in the meantime decide that some real combustion would be rather exciting?!
Despite my best effort, all the household equipment and effects otherwise remain intact, (for the moment anyway?) as I could not find anything made of steel with the right thickness for the catch!
Even more hacking away at that square bar was called for:
I was a bit worried that the angles of the catch might not lift the latch smoothly, nor hold it properly either? I need not have, as the door closes in such a satisfying manner that it is almost impossible to resist temptation, and is probably now in danger of becoming worn out - even before it is completely finished!
It was agony waiting for the first coat of paint to dry!
Heading toward the last act, fitting a baffle plate deliberately cut from some of that fluffy MDF was nice and easy, apart from being a bit fiddly due to the relatively tight clearances that is.
All I need now is a length of chain to hang from the latch handle.
Wait a minute... I wonder if... ?!
Not from the sink plug I hope Peter
No not from the sink but from the... noooo.......Pete..
I hope it has not left you without a flush.
Seriously I do love you're modelling it's amazing what you make in your basement.
I am struggling at the opposite end of scales with my 00 kit as its like working on a watch at times have to use an eye glass and tweezers
Scrolling through the pictures, there I was thinking ahhh he’s forgotten the deflector plate on the back of the door....
No he hasn’t.. fantastic stuff!
Nah Col and Bagpuss, the links turned out to be the wrong size, so thankfully everyone can still safely reach the chain bob!
I was following you too JB with my own Beyer Peacock smokebox, but despite not having to be inverted in order to accomplish it, you got way ahead of me!
Bearing in mind what I had planned for the boiler barrel, aft of the shallow smokebox and with a higher degree of support therein required, I decided to completely line the wall with strip wood. This, along with a final inner layer would also correct the internal diameter as well as provide a bit more meat to attach the steam chest to blastpipe and steam pipe joints.
Having searched without success for a more suitable material, I ended up using some layered mountboard in the hope that once it is glued solid and well sealed with plenty of thick, gooey paint, it should be sound and secure enough?!
Like those used for the backhead, 10mm diameter upholstery nails are absolutely spot on for size, and reasonably adequate in general shape for the flange and seam rivet detail.
On reflection, I was probably fibbing when declaring a non Antipodean attitude for driving home the top nails around the steam pipe and petticoat fittings, as it did actually require an almost head standing posture to successfully accomplish!
I doubt our good friend had to engage in similar contortions for his Aussie version?!
The first priming coats of a rusty, muddy brown shade revealed that the knife cut edges of the laminated flange were simply not square enough. I had also forgotten and left the temporary nut and bolt (used for handling during assembly) in the central stay hole.
A rummage produced a nut of the precise dimension needed but with an undeterminable thread!
No matter, as the object is merely for decorative purpose, a short length of dowel with the nut forced on, cleaned up and the stud liberally soaked with cyano' would surely suffice.
I was not too bothered about a neat filler finish as the whole thing wants to look fairly clagged and corroded in that area anyway...?
The bottom lining is still rather smooth, but attacking and thoroughly mullering it before the blast pipe is fitted would be counter productive.
While not wishing to rain on JB's splendid efforts, but in my typically annoying fashion, I have found that Beyer Peacock usually fabricated their bifurcated blastpipes by beating them from copper or brass sheet into sinuously curving square sections - albeit with gently radiused corners that then only become fully circular at the orifice and blower ring!
Fortunately, or maybe rather selfishly, the forked section of mine is hidden as part of the steam chest casting, but the upper and visible portion should be a long, vertical tube that commences at the base in rectangular form, and again tapers to a circle at the top.
That construction will have to wait while I try to make up my mind on the best way to make it...
It is a shame that we don't seem to have anything with a conveniently copper bottom to it anywhere at home ?!
More wonderfully realistic modelling Peter. All looks very realistic now you have painted it.
Thank you Bagpuss! A little while ago someone suggested to me that the engine was a somewhat over complicated canvas support for a bit of artwork!
I think, and hope that was spoken in jest ??!
Just when I was looking forward to the relaxing of lockdown and some better weather for getting out and about, my old back problem has returned! I am now facing mobility restrictions of a different kind, and being completely stuck I'm getting rather grumpy in my chair.
Good time for a catch up.
It feels like quite a while ago when the planned chop into the boiler barrel for a battery compartment was required. My heart was in my mouth from the first cut, not being entirely sure whether the tube would hold it's shape with such a large section removed, or not just end up unravelling and collapsing under the knife before it could be suitably braced?
Before showing the pictures, I should point out a clumsy error:
Concern about the big hole in the floor for the motor, and the prospect of a decent and weighty battery being carried in the forward section I had decided to insert a sturdy bulkhead, albeit slightly weakened with a large opening for access to the electrics.
I had already cut and glued some bracing strips in the firebox area, not only for general rigidity but also to bolt external boiler fittings to.
I thought that I had correctly measured the distance between the firebox and smokebox tubeplate bulkheads to provide a comfortable fit for the recommended 20AH, wheelchair type power pack.
Forgot the thickness of the materials! Fortunately, it was when marking up for the cut that I realised that I was one quarter of an inch short! A quick change of plan was called for - and an even bigger hole!
You can barely imagine my relief in finding that the barrel had not distorted at all, and even held firm while I cut and broke out the top section of the bulkhead before moving it back to a new position; now in line with the saddle tank rear.
The revision turned out to be surprisingly advantageous later!
Not all fully belted and braced up yet, but perfectly secure until a steel cradle is made for the battery and another section of the bulkhead trimmed away to fit the complete assembly inside.