Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Tony, that fearsome possibility had crossed my mind too !!
Pete.
Pete.
Finescale - of a sort?!
- Thread starter Peter Insole
- Start date
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Still playing catchup, and on the making of a detail connected to the previously posted image:
Not really the best way to do it?!
While the thickness of the three pieces of steel were just right for the job, I should have considered some way of connecting them together before attempting the big squeeze!
The joggle ended up at tad uneven as the rusty old brackets shifted outwards slightly in the vice jaws during the process. Oddly enough, close examination of that previously mentioned image of the battered prototype at York reveals a fairly similar appearance, so it will do.
I also admit that the strip was cut a little on the wide side as I feared there was not an awful lot of meat for drilling so near to the edge of the door. It has to function as well as being pretty!
Once again, two small machine screws were dug out of the collection, although they were not identical, their heads were roughly the same size!
This time, they had to be cut short and hammered flush on the rear as they sat a bit close to the contact point with the firehole rim. The bashed in slots could also be hidden with filler, which I am sure would be fine forever, unless of course some hapless soul does in the meantime decide that some real combustion would be rather exciting?!
Despite my best effort, all the household equipment and effects otherwise remain intact, (for the moment anyway?) as I could not find anything made of steel with the right thickness for the catch!
Even more hacking away at that square bar was called for:
I was a bit worried that the angles of the catch might not lift the latch smoothly, nor hold it properly either? I need not have, as the door closes in such a satisfying manner that it is almost impossible to resist temptation, and is probably now in danger of becoming worn out - even before it is completely finished!
It was agony waiting for the first coat of paint to dry!
Heading toward the last act, fitting a baffle plate deliberately cut from some of that fluffy MDF was nice and easy, apart from being a bit fiddly due to the relatively tight clearances that is.
All I need now is a length of chain to hang from the latch handle.
Wait a minute... I wonder if... ?!
Pete.
Not really the best way to do it?!
While the thickness of the three pieces of steel were just right for the job, I should have considered some way of connecting them together before attempting the big squeeze!
The joggle ended up at tad uneven as the rusty old brackets shifted outwards slightly in the vice jaws during the process. Oddly enough, close examination of that previously mentioned image of the battered prototype at York reveals a fairly similar appearance, so it will do.
I also admit that the strip was cut a little on the wide side as I feared there was not an awful lot of meat for drilling so near to the edge of the door. It has to function as well as being pretty!
Once again, two small machine screws were dug out of the collection, although they were not identical, their heads were roughly the same size!
This time, they had to be cut short and hammered flush on the rear as they sat a bit close to the contact point with the firehole rim. The bashed in slots could also be hidden with filler, which I am sure would be fine forever, unless of course some hapless soul does in the meantime decide that some real combustion would be rather exciting?!
Despite my best effort, all the household equipment and effects otherwise remain intact, (for the moment anyway?) as I could not find anything made of steel with the right thickness for the catch!
Even more hacking away at that square bar was called for:
I was a bit worried that the angles of the catch might not lift the latch smoothly, nor hold it properly either? I need not have, as the door closes in such a satisfying manner that it is almost impossible to resist temptation, and is probably now in danger of becoming worn out - even before it is completely finished!
It was agony waiting for the first coat of paint to dry!
Heading toward the last act, fitting a baffle plate deliberately cut from some of that fluffy MDF was nice and easy, apart from being a bit fiddly due to the relatively tight clearances that is.
All I need now is a length of chain to hang from the latch handle.
Wait a minute... I wonder if... ?!
Pete.
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
Not from the sink plug I hope Peter
No not from the sink but from the... noooo.......Pete..
Bagpuss
Western Thunderer
I hope it has not left you without a flush.No not from the sink but from the... noooo.......Pete..
Seriously I do love you're modelling it's amazing what you make in your basement.
I am struggling at the opposite end of scales with my 00 kit as its like working on a watch at times have to use an eye glass and tweezers
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Nah Col and Bagpuss, the links turned out to be the wrong size, so thankfully everyone can still safely reach the chain bob!
I was following you too JB with my own Beyer Peacock smokebox, but despite not having to be inverted in order to accomplish it, you got way ahead of me!
Bearing in mind what I had planned for the boiler barrel, aft of the shallow smokebox and with a higher degree of support therein required, I decided to completely line the wall with strip wood. This, along with a final inner layer would also correct the internal diameter as well as provide a bit more meat to attach the steam chest to blastpipe and steam pipe joints.
Having searched without success for a more suitable material, I ended up using some layered mountboard in the hope that once it is glued solid and well sealed with plenty of thick, gooey paint, it should be sound and secure enough?!
Like those used for the backhead, 10mm diameter upholstery nails are absolutely spot on for size, and reasonably adequate in general shape for the flange and seam rivet detail.
On reflection, I was probably fibbing when declaring a non Antipodean attitude for driving home the top nails around the steam pipe and petticoat fittings, as it did actually require an almost head standing posture to successfully accomplish!
I doubt our good friend had to engage in similar contortions for his Aussie version?!
The first priming coats of a rusty, muddy brown shade revealed that the knife cut edges of the laminated flange were simply not square enough. I had also forgotten and left the temporary nut and bolt (used for handling during assembly) in the central stay hole.
A rummage produced a nut of the precise dimension needed but with an undeterminable thread!
No matter, as the object is merely for decorative purpose, a short length of dowel with the nut forced on, cleaned up and the stud liberally soaked with cyano' would surely suffice.
I was not too bothered about a neat filler finish as the whole thing wants to look fairly clagged and corroded in that area anyway...?
The bottom lining is still rather smooth, but attacking and thoroughly mullering it before the blast pipe is fitted would be counter productive.
While not wishing to rain on JB's splendid efforts, but in my typically annoying fashion, I have found that Beyer Peacock usually fabricated their bifurcated blastpipes by beating them from copper or brass sheet into sinuously curving square sections - albeit with gently radiused corners that then only become fully circular at the orifice and blower ring!
Fortunately, or maybe rather selfishly, the forked section of mine is hidden as part of the steam chest casting, but the upper and visible portion should be a long, vertical tube that commences at the base in rectangular form, and again tapers to a circle at the top.
That construction will have to wait while I try to make up my mind on the best way to make it...
It is a shame that we don't seem to have anything with a conveniently copper bottom to it anywhere at home ?!
Pete.
I was following you too JB with my own Beyer Peacock smokebox, but despite not having to be inverted in order to accomplish it, you got way ahead of me!
Bearing in mind what I had planned for the boiler barrel, aft of the shallow smokebox and with a higher degree of support therein required, I decided to completely line the wall with strip wood. This, along with a final inner layer would also correct the internal diameter as well as provide a bit more meat to attach the steam chest to blastpipe and steam pipe joints.
Having searched without success for a more suitable material, I ended up using some layered mountboard in the hope that once it is glued solid and well sealed with plenty of thick, gooey paint, it should be sound and secure enough?!
Like those used for the backhead, 10mm diameter upholstery nails are absolutely spot on for size, and reasonably adequate in general shape for the flange and seam rivet detail.
On reflection, I was probably fibbing when declaring a non Antipodean attitude for driving home the top nails around the steam pipe and petticoat fittings, as it did actually require an almost head standing posture to successfully accomplish!
I doubt our good friend had to engage in similar contortions for his Aussie version?!
The first priming coats of a rusty, muddy brown shade revealed that the knife cut edges of the laminated flange were simply not square enough. I had also forgotten and left the temporary nut and bolt (used for handling during assembly) in the central stay hole.
A rummage produced a nut of the precise dimension needed but with an undeterminable thread!
No matter, as the object is merely for decorative purpose, a short length of dowel with the nut forced on, cleaned up and the stud liberally soaked with cyano' would surely suffice.
I was not too bothered about a neat filler finish as the whole thing wants to look fairly clagged and corroded in that area anyway...?
The bottom lining is still rather smooth, but attacking and thoroughly mullering it before the blast pipe is fitted would be counter productive.
While not wishing to rain on JB's splendid efforts, but in my typically annoying fashion, I have found that Beyer Peacock usually fabricated their bifurcated blastpipes by beating them from copper or brass sheet into sinuously curving square sections - albeit with gently radiused corners that then only become fully circular at the orifice and blower ring!
Fortunately, or maybe rather selfishly, the forked section of mine is hidden as part of the steam chest casting, but the upper and visible portion should be a long, vertical tube that commences at the base in rectangular form, and again tapers to a circle at the top.
That construction will have to wait while I try to make up my mind on the best way to make it...
It is a shame that we don't seem to have anything with a conveniently copper bottom to it anywhere at home ?!
Pete.
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Thank you Bagpuss! A little while ago someone suggested to me that the engine was a somewhat over complicated canvas support for a bit of artwork!
I think, and hope that was spoken in jest ??!
Pete.
I think, and hope that was spoken in jest ??!
Pete.
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Just when I was looking forward to the relaxing of lockdown and some better weather for getting out and about, my old back problem has returned! I am now facing mobility restrictions of a different kind, and being completely stuck I'm getting rather grumpy in my chair.
Good time for a catch up.
It feels like quite a while ago when the planned chop into the boiler barrel for a battery compartment was required. My heart was in my mouth from the first cut, not being entirely sure whether the tube would hold it's shape with such a large section removed, or not just end up unravelling and collapsing under the knife before it could be suitably braced?
Before showing the pictures, I should point out a clumsy error:
Concern about the big hole in the floor for the motor, and the prospect of a decent and weighty battery being carried in the forward section I had decided to insert a sturdy bulkhead, albeit slightly weakened with a large opening for access to the electrics.
I had already cut and glued some bracing strips in the firebox area, not only for general rigidity but also to bolt external boiler fittings to.
I thought that I had correctly measured the distance between the firebox and smokebox tubeplate bulkheads to provide a comfortable fit for the recommended 20AH, wheelchair type power pack.
Nah!
Forgot the thickness of the materials! Fortunately, it was when marking up for the cut that I realised that I was one quarter of an inch short! A quick change of plan was called for - and an even bigger hole!
You can barely imagine my relief in finding that the barrel had not distorted at all, and even held firm while I cut and broke out the top section of the bulkhead before moving it back to a new position; now in line with the saddle tank rear.
The revision turned out to be surprisingly advantageous later!
Not all fully belted and braced up yet, but perfectly secure until a steel cradle is made for the battery and another section of the bulkhead trimmed away to fit the complete assembly inside.
Pete.
Good time for a catch up.
It feels like quite a while ago when the planned chop into the boiler barrel for a battery compartment was required. My heart was in my mouth from the first cut, not being entirely sure whether the tube would hold it's shape with such a large section removed, or not just end up unravelling and collapsing under the knife before it could be suitably braced?
Before showing the pictures, I should point out a clumsy error:
Concern about the big hole in the floor for the motor, and the prospect of a decent and weighty battery being carried in the forward section I had decided to insert a sturdy bulkhead, albeit slightly weakened with a large opening for access to the electrics.
I had already cut and glued some bracing strips in the firebox area, not only for general rigidity but also to bolt external boiler fittings to.
I thought that I had correctly measured the distance between the firebox and smokebox tubeplate bulkheads to provide a comfortable fit for the recommended 20AH, wheelchair type power pack.
Nah!
Forgot the thickness of the materials! Fortunately, it was when marking up for the cut that I realised that I was one quarter of an inch short! A quick change of plan was called for - and an even bigger hole!
You can barely imagine my relief in finding that the barrel had not distorted at all, and even held firm while I cut and broke out the top section of the bulkhead before moving it back to a new position; now in line with the saddle tank rear.
The revision turned out to be surprisingly advantageous later!
Not all fully belted and braced up yet, but perfectly secure until a steel cradle is made for the battery and another section of the bulkhead trimmed away to fit the complete assembly inside.
Pete.
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Aware that there are still so many significant parts to do, I am perhaps more keen than ever to get the little engine up to full running condition, all wired up and using the intended controls. While I still have to both design and source the materials for the essential battery tray, the prospect of having a bit of fun sorting out the power/reversing switch was an irresistible temptation!
The original toy, with a measly 6v motor, had no need for a speed controller, but was fitted with a small plastic quadrant lever on a console for switching the power off and setting full forward or reverse motion when it was rotated to the right or left. It worked by having a yoke on the pivot that threw a basic, three position rocker switch. Having already tested and proved the separated switch with the new 12v motor, I was quite content to re-use it. My only concern was the very particular geometry of the yoke and it's necessarily accurate relationship with the switch body when installed in a new location. I decided that for the sake of simplicity, cutting out and utilising the entire switch mounting bracket and pivot section from the original console was the preferred option, despite fears that the repurposed soft plastic might not prove particularly robust.
The finished shape of the salvaged bracket was to some extent dictated by the quirky design and layout of the original console, but at least enough plastic was available all round for at least three fixing screws.
A slightly more awkward problem was an issue with clearance between the installed switch and the firebox shell.
Shaving some of the soapy plastic from the inside of the clip with a blade was rather tedious, especially as there were two large ejector pin protrusions that got thoroughly in the way, and in a moment of desperation were dealt with by roughly drilling them out! The whole thing is not very pretty, but it should none the less be effective ?!
Here demonstrated is one of the previously mentioned, and unintended benefits of the revised bulkhead location: Accurately drilling pilot holes and fitting the bracket was greatly eased by having some extra space and daylight to play with !
Nice and snug as a bug... This way... and that...
Whew, that was a tight fit!
I nibbled a tiny, tapered notch in outer edge of the firebox shell at the narrowest point as a precaution to make an alignment allowance if the box has to be drawn out and reinserted, without potentially dislodging the switch or otherwise having to pull everything else apart to safely achieve it.
In the last two views, I had temporarily installed the yoke on a stub remnant of the original plastic lever to check that there was no distortion and ensure that the new arrangement still moved smoothly, and "clicked" sweetly.
A new, longer and stronger pivot pin would be needed to reach far enough out beyond the boiler cladding, and by incredibly good fortune I already had a sufficient length, with (almost!) the right diameter of brass rod required for just such a purpose !
The brass was easily reduced to match the original moulded plastic size with a needle file and briefly whizzing the rod round in the drill press.
After whole load more faffing and filing away metal to match the original pin profiles, the yoke was a nice, strong and thankfully wobble free fit !
Next was a squared and threaded end for a new reversing lever...
The said lever, and especially the method of manufacture would be the cause of a pause, and perhaps some unnecessary concern - or even a bout of outright cowardice?!
More of that shortly.
Pete.
The original toy, with a measly 6v motor, had no need for a speed controller, but was fitted with a small plastic quadrant lever on a console for switching the power off and setting full forward or reverse motion when it was rotated to the right or left. It worked by having a yoke on the pivot that threw a basic, three position rocker switch. Having already tested and proved the separated switch with the new 12v motor, I was quite content to re-use it. My only concern was the very particular geometry of the yoke and it's necessarily accurate relationship with the switch body when installed in a new location. I decided that for the sake of simplicity, cutting out and utilising the entire switch mounting bracket and pivot section from the original console was the preferred option, despite fears that the repurposed soft plastic might not prove particularly robust.
The finished shape of the salvaged bracket was to some extent dictated by the quirky design and layout of the original console, but at least enough plastic was available all round for at least three fixing screws.
A slightly more awkward problem was an issue with clearance between the installed switch and the firebox shell.
Shaving some of the soapy plastic from the inside of the clip with a blade was rather tedious, especially as there were two large ejector pin protrusions that got thoroughly in the way, and in a moment of desperation were dealt with by roughly drilling them out! The whole thing is not very pretty, but it should none the less be effective ?!
Here demonstrated is one of the previously mentioned, and unintended benefits of the revised bulkhead location: Accurately drilling pilot holes and fitting the bracket was greatly eased by having some extra space and daylight to play with !
Nice and snug as a bug... This way... and that...
Whew, that was a tight fit!
I nibbled a tiny, tapered notch in outer edge of the firebox shell at the narrowest point as a precaution to make an alignment allowance if the box has to be drawn out and reinserted, without potentially dislodging the switch or otherwise having to pull everything else apart to safely achieve it.
In the last two views, I had temporarily installed the yoke on a stub remnant of the original plastic lever to check that there was no distortion and ensure that the new arrangement still moved smoothly, and "clicked" sweetly.
A new, longer and stronger pivot pin would be needed to reach far enough out beyond the boiler cladding, and by incredibly good fortune I already had a sufficient length, with (almost!) the right diameter of brass rod required for just such a purpose !
The brass was easily reduced to match the original moulded plastic size with a needle file and briefly whizzing the rod round in the drill press.
After whole load more faffing and filing away metal to match the original pin profiles, the yoke was a nice, strong and thankfully wobble free fit !
Next was a squared and threaded end for a new reversing lever...
The said lever, and especially the method of manufacture would be the cause of a pause, and perhaps some unnecessary concern - or even a bout of outright cowardice?!
More of that shortly.
Pete.
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
I thought long and hard, perhaps too long about this, and ended up convincing myself that a steel lever, with it's complex design, might be just beyond my capability and limited tools, as well as perhaps becoming a tad too heavy and rigid for the little plastic switch bracket to cope with? The easiest option, maybe the cowardly one, was to use the now familiar laminated ply for it. A major fly in the ointment though was my determination to match the already made up regulator by adding a stainless steel handle. How on earth could the two extremely different materials be securely attached with such a slender and linear joint?
"Nothing ventured..." as the saying goes...
I already had some stainless rod knocking around of the perfect diameter, bought yonks ago for some other long forgotten and never completed project.
First shape cut round with a rat tail needle file, then the main shaft attacked with the large flattie:
And finally worked to shape with fine, flat needle files before being smoothed and polished off in the drill press:
I forgot to photograph, and at the time nearly forgot to drill a fairly deep hole down the centre of the handle from the lever end before the final shaping stage, and while I could still grip it firmly in the work holder!
The bore was drilled for a tight fitting length of stout and fairly unyielding piano wire that had to be hammered fully, and firmly home. Quite a tricky operation as the wire left exposed was intentionally still quite long.
Now for the doubtful, or daft bits:
The upper and lower parts of the lever were made up of three layers, but on the former, the middle ply was slotted almost full length to create a long, parallel hole to snugly grip the piano wire all the way down:
The centre sections were let into upper and lowers to create the right width of slot for a quadrant (or sector?) plate:
It was hoped that the extra thickness created by that long, overlapped centre section would provide enough rigidity when the wired handle was pressed down and firmly glued in place ? Two additional parts, effectively acting as clamps might further strengthen the assembly ?
The first one involved an awful lot of sawing and filing out of a wide, flat lump of scrap steel that had previously been used as ballast under a lightweight, 16mm scale carriage!
Once trimmed and pinched in the vice to a sliding fit for a steel locking latch, a couple of holes were drilled through and lightly countersunk, then pins were driven in and their ends peened over until flush to solidly secure the collar.
The handle seemed to be fitting fairly firmly on the lever.
I am still not sure of the wisdom of adopting this rather peculiar approach though. I do take some comfort from the thought that all my aches and pains from the physical exercise on the metalwork would not be entirely wasted effort. If I do finally decide to apply some common sense and ditch the timber, at least all of the detail parts would be fully salvageable!
Here's hoping anyway ?!
Pete.
"Nothing ventured..." as the saying goes...
I already had some stainless rod knocking around of the perfect diameter, bought yonks ago for some other long forgotten and never completed project.
First shape cut round with a rat tail needle file, then the main shaft attacked with the large flattie:
And finally worked to shape with fine, flat needle files before being smoothed and polished off in the drill press:
I forgot to photograph, and at the time nearly forgot to drill a fairly deep hole down the centre of the handle from the lever end before the final shaping stage, and while I could still grip it firmly in the work holder!
The bore was drilled for a tight fitting length of stout and fairly unyielding piano wire that had to be hammered fully, and firmly home. Quite a tricky operation as the wire left exposed was intentionally still quite long.
Now for the doubtful, or daft bits:
The upper and lower parts of the lever were made up of three layers, but on the former, the middle ply was slotted almost full length to create a long, parallel hole to snugly grip the piano wire all the way down:
The centre sections were let into upper and lowers to create the right width of slot for a quadrant (or sector?) plate:
It was hoped that the extra thickness created by that long, overlapped centre section would provide enough rigidity when the wired handle was pressed down and firmly glued in place ? Two additional parts, effectively acting as clamps might further strengthen the assembly ?
The first one involved an awful lot of sawing and filing out of a wide, flat lump of scrap steel that had previously been used as ballast under a lightweight, 16mm scale carriage!
Once trimmed and pinched in the vice to a sliding fit for a steel locking latch, a couple of holes were drilled through and lightly countersunk, then pins were driven in and their ends peened over until flush to solidly secure the collar.
The handle seemed to be fitting fairly firmly on the lever.
I am still not sure of the wisdom of adopting this rather peculiar approach though. I do take some comfort from the thought that all my aches and pains from the physical exercise on the metalwork would not be entirely wasted effort. If I do finally decide to apply some common sense and ditch the timber, at least all of the detail parts would be fully salvageable!
Here's hoping anyway ?!
Pete.
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Thank you Tony and Steve. Triumph over adversity can be very satisfying, and if I am honest, an addiction to that particular pleasure is probably what keeps me going? It comes at a price though, and there are many times when I find myself thinking that it would be so much easier to whack this or that bit in a lathe or milling machine - especially when my arms feel as if they are going to fall off during, or just after a prolonged session with a ragged hacksaw or slightly blunted file! That was partly the reason for an admission of cowardice at the beginning of my previous post!
Continuing therefore with the mostly joyful, but sometimes painful obsession:
The next part was simple in principal, but turned out to be surprisingly difficult. Bashing and squeezing a strip of steel into a nice little U bend this time generated a few moments of frustration. Even the exercise of some choice expletives helped little!
On the prototype, the upper locking latch guide appears to be an integral part of the lever forging. The projection is machined with a larger, cupped hole at the top running through to a smaller hole for the rod below, providing a seat for the spring and some lateral as well as vertical movement.
I not only fancied a more basic approach, but wanted the part to have two fixing "pins" that would pinch either side of the internal piano wire armature.
Out with the files again...
Before the bend was fully formed, both ends could be squeezed close enough together in the vice to shape both the pins reasonably even and parallel.
Once the pins were done and cut free from the strip, it was possible to try and straighten the sides out:
I used an old, broken drill bit, bashed and wriggled through to finally set the correct gap!
I felt fairly happy that the wire armature would not have anywhere to go if the lever ever met with some sideways force ?!
Then the fun really started:
My original plan was to cut a tee from some thin sheet steel, and fold it to form the cranked latch handle. Unfortunately, I then realized that the geometry, with the latch rod pivot location too near the edge precluded that method. Besides, the proper handle has some lovely, almost sexy shapes to it.
Only working from solid would suffice then ?!
I was never more thankful for a mug of tea after hacking even more off that jolly lump of ballast !!
That was just for starters...
There is not much to say about this and what follows, apart from counting all the huffing, puffing and grunting the went on for a couple of days !!
The last act was to give the handle a subtle bend.
While all the official drawings, and indeed the preserved Beyer Peacock "Dot" at Tywyn show the handle to be straight, the eight Horwich engines had theirs angled backwards by varying degree. During her time at the NRM, "Wren" has been the victim of some carelessness, with the handle now notably twisted in completely the opposite direction, along with a rather nasty looking fracture adjacent in the main lever that could well have been a result of the same incident!
Ironically, a potential weakness in the area of the damage was something that would shortly come to haunt me here at home !!
Pete.
Continuing therefore with the mostly joyful, but sometimes painful obsession:
The next part was simple in principal, but turned out to be surprisingly difficult. Bashing and squeezing a strip of steel into a nice little U bend this time generated a few moments of frustration. Even the exercise of some choice expletives helped little!
On the prototype, the upper locking latch guide appears to be an integral part of the lever forging. The projection is machined with a larger, cupped hole at the top running through to a smaller hole for the rod below, providing a seat for the spring and some lateral as well as vertical movement.
I not only fancied a more basic approach, but wanted the part to have two fixing "pins" that would pinch either side of the internal piano wire armature.
Out with the files again...
Before the bend was fully formed, both ends could be squeezed close enough together in the vice to shape both the pins reasonably even and parallel.
Once the pins were done and cut free from the strip, it was possible to try and straighten the sides out:
I used an old, broken drill bit, bashed and wriggled through to finally set the correct gap!
I felt fairly happy that the wire armature would not have anywhere to go if the lever ever met with some sideways force ?!
Then the fun really started:
My original plan was to cut a tee from some thin sheet steel, and fold it to form the cranked latch handle. Unfortunately, I then realized that the geometry, with the latch rod pivot location too near the edge precluded that method. Besides, the proper handle has some lovely, almost sexy shapes to it.
Only working from solid would suffice then ?!
I was never more thankful for a mug of tea after hacking even more off that jolly lump of ballast !!
That was just for starters...
There is not much to say about this and what follows, apart from counting all the huffing, puffing and grunting the went on for a couple of days !!
The last act was to give the handle a subtle bend.
While all the official drawings, and indeed the preserved Beyer Peacock "Dot" at Tywyn show the handle to be straight, the eight Horwich engines had theirs angled backwards by varying degree. During her time at the NRM, "Wren" has been the victim of some carelessness, with the handle now notably twisted in completely the opposite direction, along with a rather nasty looking fracture adjacent in the main lever that could well have been a result of the same incident!
Ironically, a potential weakness in the area of the damage was something that would shortly come to haunt me here at home !!
Pete.
Last edited:
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Ah, thank ye so 'm deario, if only it were true ?! Painfully all too aware of the wreckage trail in my wake, I must surely be getting the spells mixed up?
Bringing the tale up to date, and while evidently wearing the wrong hat, I had to have a rummage for some suitable material for a latch rod, preferably round with a lumpy bit on one end, and found this slightly odd version of an old coach bolt:
It proved to be just the right length, and after filing down there was just enough meat left on the head to drill through for a scale size pivot bolt.
A silly mistake was to follow, but before that was discovered:
Still to finish and tidy each end, it was checked for fit.
I was pleased find that it swung quite nicely. A niggling minor detail is that the head should have been larger, with the squared top laying flush with the slot in the handle body when the lever is set in each locked position.
The error referred to was still to come...
Careful examination of drawings, photographs and even peering at the real thing, (with the weakened lever firmly wired and clamped there was no opportunity to try it out at the NRM) have failed to reveal the precise means by which the rod moves vertically in linear motion, while the top end has to follow the radial action of the handle? I therefore opted for a subtle and buried pin between the rod and latch:
I chose brass rod for two reasons: Firstly, such a fine and enclosed pin would be less effected by rust, and it would be softer and easier to hammer down flush on the bearing surfaces on either side of the latch.
All sweet it seemed, until I tried to slide the assembly into position !!
Ahhhhhhh !
The pivot head might be prototypically too small, but it was still too big to pass through either guide from below.
Rather than sitting back, having a fag and cuppa while contemplating a sensible redesign solution, I allowed the Neanderthal genes to have a go instead!
"Derrr..., it must go in that way..."
Amazingly, and I'll never be sure how, it went in!
I then realised that there was no way to insert the essential spring without pulling it halfway back out again.
(It gets worse):
While attempting that, I discovered that the joint between the lovely stainless steel handle and the plywood lever was not so child (or idiot?) proof after all !
Four new brass "rivets" and a slightly mangled "Biro" spring later...!
Sadly, it is now working smoothly and beautifully, but not quite so prettily. My ancient ancestors may carry on laughing at me for a little while longer - at least until I get round to replacing the brass pin and bent spring with a simple, slender and lets face it, much more sensible grub screw anyway!
I still need to find a matching M3 nut and bolt for the main handle pivot, but in the meantime, a splash of my "oily steel" mix at least gives the impression of advancement.
With my lumbar problem receding, and with it a reliance on paracetamol, is it nearly, or really safe for me to start picking up hard or sharp things in the workshop again... ??
Pete.
Bringing the tale up to date, and while evidently wearing the wrong hat, I had to have a rummage for some suitable material for a latch rod, preferably round with a lumpy bit on one end, and found this slightly odd version of an old coach bolt:
It proved to be just the right length, and after filing down there was just enough meat left on the head to drill through for a scale size pivot bolt.
A silly mistake was to follow, but before that was discovered:
Still to finish and tidy each end, it was checked for fit.
I was pleased find that it swung quite nicely. A niggling minor detail is that the head should have been larger, with the squared top laying flush with the slot in the handle body when the lever is set in each locked position.
The error referred to was still to come...
Careful examination of drawings, photographs and even peering at the real thing, (with the weakened lever firmly wired and clamped there was no opportunity to try it out at the NRM) have failed to reveal the precise means by which the rod moves vertically in linear motion, while the top end has to follow the radial action of the handle? I therefore opted for a subtle and buried pin between the rod and latch:
I chose brass rod for two reasons: Firstly, such a fine and enclosed pin would be less effected by rust, and it would be softer and easier to hammer down flush on the bearing surfaces on either side of the latch.
All sweet it seemed, until I tried to slide the assembly into position !!
Ahhhhhhh !
The pivot head might be prototypically too small, but it was still too big to pass through either guide from below.
Rather than sitting back, having a fag and cuppa while contemplating a sensible redesign solution, I allowed the Neanderthal genes to have a go instead!
"Derrr..., it must go in that way..."
Amazingly, and I'll never be sure how, it went in!
I then realised that there was no way to insert the essential spring without pulling it halfway back out again.
(It gets worse):
While attempting that, I discovered that the joint between the lovely stainless steel handle and the plywood lever was not so child (or idiot?) proof after all !
Four new brass "rivets" and a slightly mangled "Biro" spring later...!
Sadly, it is now working smoothly and beautifully, but not quite so prettily. My ancient ancestors may carry on laughing at me for a little while longer - at least until I get round to replacing the brass pin and bent spring with a simple, slender and lets face it, much more sensible grub screw anyway!
I still need to find a matching M3 nut and bolt for the main handle pivot, but in the meantime, a splash of my "oily steel" mix at least gives the impression of advancement.
With my lumbar problem receding, and with it a reliance on paracetamol, is it nearly, or really safe for me to start picking up hard or sharp things in the workshop again... ??
Pete.
Last edited:
Tom Insole
Western Thunderer
Yet another thing I really want to touch and try out... This is going to be the big problem when I'm allowed to visit soon... I'll just be trying out all the brass knobs, latches, hinges and levers!
I hope they're kiddie friendly... This (not so little) kid want's to play Dad
Click, clunk, creak, tick and donk.
I hope they're kiddie friendly... This (not so little) kid want's to play Dad
Click, clunk, creak, tick and donk.
