Finney7

queensquare

queensquare

Western Thunderer
Simon showed me a copy of the new M7 instructions at the weekend and I have to say they are very impressive.

I'm hoping one of my customers takes a shine to a Finney kit as I fancy building one of the reintroduced kits.

Jerry
 
Dan Randall

Dan Randall

Western Thunderer
Dikitriki said:
We have updated the web site and added the M7 instructions as a pdf. Do have a look at the new instructions in the Finney7 house style, a lot of work has gone into them.

Richard
Click to expand...

The instructions look excellent to me - well done Finney7! :thumbs: The font used is very easy on the eye and the lovely photographs enhance things even more. This, along with 7mm Mick's recent M7 build have almost made me want an M7 myself...!

I did notice a typo though on page M7-11 in case you wish to correct it at some point (the final word in the following quote)....

"TANK WITH FEED WATER HEATING
(LONG TANK)
The tank sides (97) and tops (100) are the correct length for the 'long'
tanks. The 'long' tank front (99) fits with the side inside the half etched
recess in the front.
To fit the cladding plates (102) drill out all the marked holes on the tank
sides with a 3/16" drill - be careful. This will enable the plates to be tack
soldered in position from the inside through these oles".


Incidentally, I have a couple of questions pertaining to the above:-

1) Is there a recommended approach to drilling large diameter holes (such as th 3/16" quoted above), in thin sheet material, which will hopefully avoid damage? In the past, I've laminated the thin sheet to some thicker material, but what other methods are there?

2) A work colleague has asked me to build a Connoisseur Southern Railway 02 tank (mainland version), for him. He's given me a rather grainy photocopy of the loco he wants it based on and this seems to show some sort of cladding on the tank sides. Would this have had feedwater heating too and if so, what thickness of metal would best represent the cladding please?


Regards

Dan





 
AJC

AJC

Western Thunderer
Dan Randall said:

2) A work colleague has asked me to build a Connoisseur Southern Railway 02 tank (mainland version), for him. He's given me a rather grainy photocopy of the loco he wants it based on and this seems to show some sort of cladding on the tank sides. Would this have had feedwater heating too and if so, what thickness of metal would best represent the cladding please?


Regards

Dan
Click to expand...

While by no means an LSWR anorak (is Steph listening?) I have built a couple of O2s in 4mm. I don't think that feedwater heating was ever fitted to the but I might be wrong. Equally, what makes you think there was cladding on the tanks? The side plates overlapped the tops and had a bead along the top edge but as far as I'm aware these were integral with the tanks themselves. What number are they after? There are a host of variations...

Adam
 
Steph Dale

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
@Dan Randall,
I wasn't aware of any O2 locos having feed water heating, believing it to be a Drummond fitting. I've just checked the applicable Bradley and can confirm that the effect you're seeing is not due to a cladding panel. I suppose it might be a tank repair though; in later days some locos had heavily patched tanks and bunkers, the outer flare on the latter being particularly susceptible to rusting out.

Steph
In passing, wearing his loudly-rustling LSWR anorak.
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
.....and we only proof read it three times......

:)

A bit of a nuisance really, as we have in the last hour received confirmation that the instructions are printed and ready.

Brian
 
daifly

daifly

Western Thunderer
I'd suggest that you get it proof read by someone who is not involved with the project. They will more easily recognise what is written, not what you though you wrote!
 
TheSnapper

TheSnapper

Western Thunderer
You need one of these:

Eye halve a spelling chequer
It came with my pea sea
It plain lee marques four my revue
Miss steaks eye can knot sea.

Eye strike a quay and type a word
And weight four it to say
Weather I am wrong ore write
It shows me strait aweigh.

As soon as a mist ache is maid
It nose bee four two long
And eye can put the air ore write
Its rare lea ever wrong.

Eye halve run this poem threw it
I am sure yore please two no
Its let her purr fact awl the wight
My chequer told me sew.

Anon
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
The clever thing is, and about which few others are aware or should care about, is that I didn't write it. Neither was I the only one to read it before publication although I take full responsibility for the final review.

Finney7 is remarkable in having six partners each of whom has very different skills. Personally I had no involvement in writing the instructions but I have proof read everything. The error is mine and mine entirely. To have the proof reading done by someone who has no knowledge of the subject invites errors of a different, technical and potentially more important kind.

However, I'm not wearing a hair shirt. This is a superb set of instructions, written by someone who knows his business, and to miss a typo or two will cause me some pain but in no way detracts from the effort and attention to detail which went in to the preparation.

After all, the only person to never make a mistake never made anything.

:)

Brian
 
7mmMick

7mmMick

Western Thunderer
Hi Dan,

Glad you liked the build pal, thank you for the kind comments. Re the drilling out on the holes, I took it very steadily. Starting small and moving up in small bite size pieces. Prior to full diameter you end up with half etch thickness is any case, which seems to reduce the risk of the tank side grabbing. Use of my pillar drill also helped, with the side clamped firmly.

Mick
 
oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Dan Randall said:



1) Is there a recommended approach to drilling large diameter holes (such as th 3/16" quoted above), in thin sheet material, which will hopefully avoid damage? In the past, I've laminated the thin sheet to some thicker material, but what other methods are there?
Click to expand...

That's a good question, Dan. (And thanks for drawing the typo in the instructions to our attention). You've seen Mick's build of the M7 and I defer to his experience. For what it's worth, though, I tend to use a broach for small holes and a reamer for the larger ones, even in quite thin metals. I'd never use a drill to finish a hole because of the tendency of a drill to grab. However, having said this, I've also soldered thin metal to a thicker backing plate for initial drilling.

Brian
 
SimonT

SimonT

Western Thunderer
I came to this project after spending my last eight years in the RAF producing Aircrew Documents; along side Nuclear, they have the highest standards, necessary to achieve airworthiness. However, the truth is that no one person can spot all the mistakes and we had documents that received their six monthly updates for 15 years in which we found typos that dated from year dot. The Design Authority missed things on their four stage QA and we missed things on our own four stage QA. 15 x 2 x 4 x 4 = lots. The human brain is very good at seeing what it wants to see. I am also the most useless topist.
Thank you to all who have fed their observations back to us, we very much appreciate your help.

Snapper - thanks. A colleague had that poem on the door of his office and I have always wanted a copy. Cheers.
Simon
 
Heather Kay

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
When I used to design stuff for a living, I worked over a decade with an ex-Fleet Street proof reader. He was amazing. No matter how hard you tried, you couldn't get anything past him. I have always tried to remember the things I learned at Sid's elbow, but as the years pass so do the odd errors and typos. Pobody's Nerfect - and autocorrect really doesn't help as much as it ought!
 
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