Hayfield1
Western Thunderer
This is what held up the finishing of the loco, coupling rods, the method in the instructions I found was not very easily achieved, in fact I could not make it work. But after quite a bit of time this morning, I altered the connection between the coupling rods and crossheads and enlarged the gap in the slide bar support to allow the crosshead to slide through the slide bar support, then tested the running
I did speak with Dave Hammersley (owner of Roxey and a very nice chap) about this issue with the crossheads and slide bars, and he said it is of its time. I think in the end I will have to change the crosshead and piston rods as they are made of whitemetal to a hard casting, also the coupling rod is far to thin where it connects to the crosshead.
Its not apparent, but the instructions suggest you use a bent and shortened lace pin soldered to the connecting rod. and I think fit the slide bars at the same time as the crosshead
Well that did not happen and the gaps in the slide bar end supports were too small to slide the crossheads through
I used I think 16ba countersunk bolts and nuts, which just about went through the connecting rods, then soldered the nut to the rod,
I then filed the nut down (that's why I soldered it to the rod) to reduce the size of its profile
I simply followed what I had done on one side to the other and the chassis now runs fine
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