Hunslet Works in 7mm

Tom Insole

Western Thunderer
I am back into test piece mode. This time for the windows in the main wall at the side of the test track.

The original mock up that I made that some of you would have seen at exhibitions, had the lintels left on the walls with the openings for the windows openings only.

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Putting some extra thickness on these would be difficult and it would be easy to get them out of position and look a mess.

The only real option was to include the lintels in the 3d drawing of the frames.

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I have printed four frames and used two on a small test wall section with the new openings using MDF.

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This was painted with red oxide and detailed up using army painters acrylic.

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The frames went straight into the apertures without any filing or trimming.

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I cut some black acrylic on the laser to fit in the recess I created in the back of the frames.

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The window frames were painted in Army Painter Green primer. Then masked so the lintels could be painted black.

I then used a dark wash on the brick work as I had before and then fixed the frames. I added another coat of wash on the wholes assembly
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This has come out ok when you compare with a real photo.

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It will need some detailed weathering when it is all built up and some minor selected mortar. most of it had gone black in reality.

I will now look at finalising the designs for all the structure , right sown the yard.


Andy
Fantastic work! Wonderful to see that little yellow beastie. I've still got a half built one in 16mm I start doing using 3D printing. Sadly I no longer work at a place with access so it got sat on the back burner! One of these days I'll get time and space to finish it. Planning to model one in 7mm?

Tom.
 

Andy Ross

Western Thunderer
Since the Leeds Exhibition the layout has been set up in clubrooms , where it will stay until I take it to Preston in March.

The main reason for this is that my garage can get very damp and last winter the it suffered from damp especially as there was no protective paint on any of the surfaces.

The plan is to try and get all the internal floors laid before Preston.

As the structure is now painted I have stared painting some of the items for the boiler shop.

The problem is that we need to create unpainted raw steel.

The heavy constructions such as frames are made from rolled plate and are a red/brown rust colour. Below are the Scunthorpe Bo Bo frames.

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The lines on the top represent where the plates are joined, welded and dressed by a grinder.

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This is an etched construction so I etched primed it first and then used an Army Painters Brown primer. I used Tamiya weathering pads and AK paint pencils to add the effects.

I have also painted the 3d printed Snowdon and Fiji Frames.

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The cab and fuel tank originals would be made from De-coiled 6mm plate and is a grey/blue colour.

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These were primed and then sprayed Army Painter Gun metal with the airbrush. I then used the AK pencils and a blue wash to take some of the shine off.

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The 300 HP Mines bo bo frames have been sprayed with white primer to represent NCB white. The paint pencils were used to add a dirt effect on the edges were they had been man handled.

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I have also used some of the washes to dirty stillages and trestles.

This is just a start and there is a lot more to paint including all the wheel sets, welding tables etc. The two MOD locos also need stripping and painting.

I have also started producing the drawings of the long wall at the side of the test track right up to the end of the layout, ready for laser cutting from MDF.



Andy
 

Andy Ross

Western Thunderer
Happy New year.

With the layout at the clubrooms I have done a lot of part preparation and production at home over the Christmas break.

Just before Christmas I had issues with the original laser machine, all the fixes we had used before no longer worked, so I took the plunge and bought a more powerful and slightly bigger XTool S1 with a 20W laser. (You can get a 40W for this machine but I don't think I need one so powerful for what I am using it for).

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This was put straight to use and over a couple of days I did the drawings for all the remaining internal floors and got them all cut.

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I now have a kit of parts to start gluing in place, all being well on Wednesday night at the club.

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I have also had the filament 3D printer out. I needed to make so more fabrication / welding tables a bit bigger than the original ones I made.

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These come out flatter on this printer than they do on the resin one - I have added a bit on to the top face to sand off to get remove the table markings.

I have also done some work detail painting a couple of the engines which improves them considerably. I now need to make some special pallets for them to stand on.

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I have also been thinking about what other details I need in the shop.

Using some 0.4mm ply I have come up with some shelf unit to go on the benches and some cupboards to go under the benches.

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I have set these out as kits when I cut them on the laser.

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One makes the shelf units and the other makes a pair of cupboards, one can have the door glued in place open. I am really pleased with how these have come out.

The last thing I have been working on in short bursts is the main wall for the building at the side of the test track.

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This has been altered to take the latest version of windows frames as detailed in previous posts. I have spent hours studying photos counting bricks to get window positions and sizes as I have got closer to the Jack lane end.

With the new machine I will be able to do this in larger sections.



Andy
 
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simond

Western Thunderer
Andy,

those engines look the bees’ knees, lovely!

please tell more about the new laser. I’m thinking that a replacement for my old CO2 is, if not imminent, at least on the cards at some point, so I’m gathering info.

ta
Simon
 

Andy Ross

Western Thunderer
Simon

I suggest you look at the XTool web site www.uk.xtool.com.

They make both Diode and CO2 lasers and always have offers on.

Mine is the S1 which is a diode laser. I can now cut upto 500 x 380 sheets. The thickest material I need to cut is 4mm ply and this cuts this with no issues, I think at a push it will go to 8mm.

Hope this helps.

Andy
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Thanks Andy,

I guess with diode, there’s no need to have a water cooling system?
do you extract outside, or does the filter module do the job?
does it work with Lightburn?

Due to these constraints, my CO2 is in the garage, which is ok in the summer but not much fun today, particularly as it clearly needs some fettling / service to return to its usual performance. I’m not going to spend an hour or two fiddling today! It seems the diode lasers are generally simpler. And of course, they are much more recent, my CO2 was second hand in about 2012.

the larger sheet size is attractive too.

cheers
Simon
 

Andy Ross

Western Thunderer
Thanks Andy,

I guess with diode, there’s no need to have a water cooling system?
do you extract outside, or does the filter module do the job?
does it work with Lightburn?

Due to these constraints, my CO2 is in the garage, which is ok in the summer but not much fun today, particularly as it clearly needs some fettling / service to return to its usual performance. I’m not going to spend an hour or two fiddling today! It seems the diode lasers are generally simpler. And of course, they are much more recent, my CO2 was second hand in about 2012.

the larger sheet size is attractive too.

cheers
Simon
Simon

No there is no cooling system it is all in the machine.

I bought a filter unit from Xtool with the old machine and this is comparable with the new one. So mine is in the spare bedroom and gives of little or no smell - They do a new unit that also removes smells with Carbon filters.

The one limitation there is with the diode laser is it will not cut clear acrylic as the blue beam just goes straight through.

They are also so much cheaper.

Andy
 

Greengiant

Western Thunderer
Martin

The 0.4 ply comes form a company called Laserply - Laserply - Plywood, MDF, Veneered MDF, Acrylics, Rubber.

They are very good and supply within a few days of ordering.

Andy
Thanks Andy.
I normally get my laser stuff from Hobarts, they are not far from me, but the thinest they do is 0.8mm. I will get some of this 0.4mm and give it a go on my diode laser. I have been using Polybak for thin stuff, but interested in how the ply performs.
Martin
 

Andy Ross

Western Thunderer
So despite it being very cold at the clubrooms with very little heating we did have a meeting tonight and I took all the floor parts I had cut down to try on the layout.

All the packing pieces fitted as planned in the Erecting/boiler shop and in the wheel shop.

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The engraved floor panels fitted except for a section against the wall in the boiler shop. Not sure what happened but they were too narrow and the spacing was out for the columns, these things happen and it won't take long to redraw. These will be recut in the next few days.

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All the panels in the wheel shop fitted as planned.

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Whilst drawing these I had an Idea on how to make the hearth for the gas rings used to fit tyres to wheel centres.

The picture below is of the original and you can see the different size gas rings.

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My original plan was to 3d print this but in the meantime I have made one from plywood which looks fine for now - I just need to come up with a way to make the gas rings.

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At the moment everything is just laid in place - it was so cold I did not think it was a good plan to glue it down. It should be quite a bit warmer next week and the plan is to get it all glued in place then.


Andy
 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
Just slightly curious as to the mix of profiles of the cutouts in the floor packing sheets - or am I overthinking it? :rolleyes:
 

Andy Ross

Western Thunderer
Just slightly curious as to the mix of profiles of the cutouts in the floor packing sheets - or am I overthinking it? :rolleyes:
Hi

There are a couple of reasons.

1. Some of the panels will need to side out to change the scenes as the layout develops. These will be the plain concrete sections - you will note there is a scored line down each edge of the packing pieces and some clearance.

2. I came up with the shapes just by chance on the original section and just copied and paced and trimmed to fit. But it is all made up as I went along.

The reason for them being there was to save a little bit of wight but it is also better I find for gluing large areas together if there is gaps to prevent bulges from trapped air etc.

Andy
 

Andy Ross

Western Thunderer
I have been putting it off since before Christmas, but I have to face up to the fact that I need to get on with soldering up the benches the run down both sides of the workshop.

It's worth noting that I have had a go at 3d printing the bench frames but even with thickening them up they were still too flimsy.

I did the etches for these ages ago and made a couple up when I got them to prove that everything worker. I have placed these on the layout at recent exhibitions to see how they will look.

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The etches have been produced to make one bench assembly.

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Last weekend I put one together so I could remind myself how they go together. This took around 3 hours.

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The draws are separate and will be positioned in different positions and glued in place when the benches are fixed to the layout.



I was concerned how long these will take, so I thought I would do a batch of sub assemblies in the hope it would speed things up. I cut the parts out for seven sets.



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I built the legs up first.

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I then built up the draw frame assembly's.

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I then added the tops and the legs to complete the frames.

The draws were then built up and added - the handles are very fiddly to add.

Building in a batch definitely reduced the assembly time by about 50%.

The only issue is I now still need to make about 10 more sets.

There was also some progress on Wednesday at the club, all the packing pieces for the floor are now glued in place and the engraved wood floor panels should be all in place this Wednesday.



Andy
 
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