Ian's Workshop, G&SWR 'Auld Bogie' in S7

Ian@StEnochs

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
It’s been a wee while since I posted progress on the Aul Bogie but I was re assembling a previous build after painting. However this weekend I got back to work on the tender, well plural, tenders. I don’t really enjoy making tenders. However they are a necessary evil, especially if you model a railway which did not favour pugs. Making two together cuts the time as it is almost as quick cutting out duplicate parts as it is one. The tender for the Aul Bogie is 1800 gallons while the other, which will go behind an 0-6-0, is only 1500 gallons. Same frames but the tanks are a bit lower.


I had the outside frame plates cut out and drilled for the rivets early on in the project and I had a stock of axleboxes left over from a batch I made when I last built a Stirling tender. The axlebox guides are pieces of brass angle soldered onto the frames on a simple jig before the frames were soldered to the footplate. The axles run in ptfe bearings pressed into the axleboxes and each box has its own coil spring.


The tender bodies are built up from 10thou sides around a base and top, the later with the rivet detail pressed in, and with the flares just folded over. The tool boxes are soldered up and are held by screws to aid painting. The body of the 1800 gallon tender is loose and fixed to the frames by screws because the frames and tank will be different colours. The goods one will be all over green so soldered up as one assembly.

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The tender on its wheels looks to be too low but it doesn’t have the springs inserted.


Not sure what to do next, tender brakes or loco valve gear. Both a bit fiddly so I will wait and see what takes my fancy!


Ian.
 
Ian@StEnochs

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
It’s been a while. As I said in my last post I wasn’t sure what bit I would tackle next. Well the tender brake gear won! However I then got a bit diverted and haven’t touched the Auld Bogie since Christmas.


I discovered a picture of the Kilmarnock works pug taken around 1906, my principal period of interest, and this prompted me to start another project!

This is where I got to today! Tomorrow I will start to paint it!


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I had a drawing from the G&SWRA but lack of suitable wheels had held me back in 7mm scale. This engine had 3’6” wheels with 8 H section spokes, nothing available from the trade, so my first job was fabricating the centres, three layers of brass, two outside identical and the centre in thicker metal to give the correct section. An additional crank layer on the front and all assembled by soldering onto a brass sacrificial axle. Tyres were turned from steel and the centre machined to fit and the axle hole drilled at the same setting. The tyres were glued on with epoxy resin and a paper insulating layer between the two. The axles are telescopic and retained with a taper pin. The rest of the model is quite conventional but the buffer beams are boxwood from a broken rule, they were painted early on to keep them clean!


Back to the Auld Bogie now!


Ian.
 
Ian@StEnochs

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
Thanks JB. I only made the wheels because there is nothing suitable on the market. If there was I would have saved quite a bit of time.

Ian.
 
JimG

JimG

Western Thunderer
Very nice build of that saddle tank - I bet there was a wee bit of cursing when that was formed - there would have been if it was me. :):):)
 
Ian@StEnochs

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
JimG said:
Very nice build of that saddle tank - I bet there was a wee bit of cursing when that was formed - there would have been if it was me. :):):)
Click to expand...

Jim,

There was a lot of cursing! I made it too short by 5mm! I misread the rule. Of course I had to make a 2nd one which, despite the practice, was a bu##er to form and took longer! I now have a spare ogre tank which might just become a scenic accessory dumped behind the loco shed.

Ian.

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Ian@StEnochs

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
Not going out and about has freed up quite a lot time so as the weather has been fine and dry I have concentrated on painting and lining out the wee pug and finishing off a couple of wagons However in between coats I got round to fabricating the inside motion on the Auld Bogie.


My AGH wheelset has a crank axle and the connecting rod is quite noticeable when in motion. I decided that as the valves are between the cylinders in this loco, and the movement of same is quite small, it would not really be worth making the full motion move. When the engine is moving valve movement can hardly be seen and when the engine is stationary, so is the valve gear! Anyway there has to be something there and it has to look as though it works. Because of that I ended up making the full gear but locked it up solid with solder once assembled.


All the components are cut from various thicknesses of brass with pins and shafts from various bits of wire. The whole assembly, cylinders, slide bars and connecting rods can be removed from the frames to facilitate painting. The photos show just how little you can see once in place!


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This is the underside, the big hole is where the bogie pivot comes through and the two small holes are for the pickup wires from the bogie split axles.


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From the side you can see a bit more. Running trials showed up a problem. On tight curves the bogie wheels shorted on the frame something I kind of expected but hoped to get away with it, no luck! My solution can be seen behind the bogie wheels, the black shape is a piece of black plastic araldited into a recess milled on the frame.


Next, the cab interior.


Ian.
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Ian@StEnochs said:
On tight curves the bogie wheels shorted on the frame som... My solution can be seen behind the bogie wheels, the black shape is a piece of black plastic araldited into a recess milled on the frame.
Click to expand...
Now that is a neat and tidy solution to the problem.

What is the thickness of the frame plate and of the plastic infill?

Idea duly pinched.
 
daifly

daifly

Western Thunderer
Ian
The aft bogie wheels look as though they might be the wrong way around if the insulation (or lack of) is anything to go by!
Dave
 
Ian@StEnochs

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
Dog Star said:
Now that is a neat and tidy solution to the problem.

What is the thickness of the frame plate and of the plastic infill?

Idea duly pinched.
Click to expand...

The frames are 0.7mm thick nickel silver. I milled out the recesses to a depth 0.25mm, it needed a bit of a lash up to hold the frames on the milling table! A piece of black plastic card, shaped and glued, with Araldite, into the recess and left overnight in my painting oven to cure. Next session I milled the excess plastic flush with the frame.

Ian.
 
Ian@StEnochs

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
daifly said:
Ian
The aft bogie wheels look as though they might be the wrong way around if the insulation (or lack of) is anything to go by!
Dave
Click to expand...

Hi Dave,

No the wheels are the correct way round! The axles run in insulated brass tubes and pick up one either side. On my photo the rear wheel picks up on the near side.

Ian.
 
Ian@StEnochs

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
I got back onto the interesting bits this afternoon and got the cab finished. On a previous session I had fabricated the basic cab and roof. While they were loose and the inside was more easily accessed I completed the boiler backhead and fittings. All soldered together and handrails and footsteps added.

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I have also reassembled the pug after painting. The good weather helped, along with the enforced extra time of course! It still needs works plates, on order, and a bit of weathering but that will have to wait until after the lockdown.

Ian.

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