LBSCR Early Horsebox
- Thread starter Jon Nazareth
- Start date
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
You're very kind, Jamie.
A little bit more. Vac pipes, courtesy of Mike Williams, fitted together with brake cylinder and this is as far as I'm going to go with the gubbins under the box. I did want to make up and fit the yokes but I've set the brake shoes a little too high and they would foul the axles if I tried to fit them now and I didn't want to take off and refit the brake hangers. The rod that fits to the cylinder is hinged and to support the other end, I've fitted a handrail knob with a piece of 1/16 rod passing through it. The vac pipe will eventually be glued to the brass plate that holds the handrail knob. When the horse box is back onto it's wheels, none of this will be seen.
One thing I've learnt from this project is that forward planning is paramount! Maybe next time
Jon
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
This is my interpretation of the horse box chimney. Yes, the fittings are over scale but any smaller and I wouldn't have been able to handle them. At the moment, I'm very slowly filing a curve on the separate base plate to the shape of the roof. The base is no more than a fat washer and I'm sliding it over a half round file. Not quite sure what it will look like when it's finished but, I d have a spare.
Jon
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
Hi Jon,
Just admiring the exquisite brake detail and after looking at the prototype photographs earlier in the thread I wonder whether the brake hose should have a 'glad hand' fitting the end rather than a vacuum brake fitting if being modelled as a air braked version. If air braked wouldn't the pipe be of thinner diameter and have a valve handle on the vertical brake pipe?
The oil lamp pot is lovely and looks like it should have a working oil lamp inside
. .....and it's good to see the LBSCR being modelled.
Just admiring the exquisite brake detail and after looking at the prototype photographs earlier in the thread I wonder whether the brake hose should have a 'glad hand' fitting the end rather than a vacuum brake fitting if being modelled as a air braked version. If air braked wouldn't the pipe be of thinner diameter and have a valve handle on the vertical brake pipe?
The oil lamp pot is lovely and looks like it should have a working oil lamp inside
. .....and it's good to see the LBSCR being modelled.
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
Dave
Looking at the drawing, you're probably right but, I chose that which was commercially available at the time.
Mike
Thanks but I feel that the hinge and spring clip could have been of smaller gauge stuff, hey ho.
Jon
Looking at the drawing, you're probably right but, I chose that which was commercially available at the time.
Mike
Thanks but I feel that the hinge and spring clip could have been of smaller gauge stuff, hey ho.
Jon
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
I'm making up the door furniture for the groom's compartment door and most of it, I have in hand except that is the grooms door hinges. Does anyone have any idea what size the barrels would be? I'm thinking 3" long with a 1/2" or 3/4" barrel. I'd be interested what others think.
Jon
Stevesopwith
Western Thunderer
I measured an Eastern Counties 1st, ( early 1860s ), and it's top and middle hinges were 2 3/4" long and projected by 3/4" , so I'd go with your suggestion of 3/4" dia.
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
Steve
Thanks for that, the barrels look okay at that size. Pictures later........
Jon
Thanks for that, the barrels look okay at that size. Pictures later........
Jon
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
Hinges, door handle and grab handle, all in place. In trying to work out how to represent the hinges, I tried several ideas until I thought of this one. Making up these 'Ts', drilling a hole and gluing in place. These are made up from .020" brass wire. A few broke off while fixing and lost themselves )) but, I just made more. The grab handle, I made from copper wire, a bit soft! I did try brass but the ends kept breaking off when manipulating the flats when setting the angle so that the handle stood away from the body. The door handle, I think, is one of Mike Williams' filed down to shape. I suppose that one could solder these up as 'T' sections too and then file to shape but I think I would use silver solder as much stronger. Next on the to do list is the roof.
Jon
)) but, I just made more. The grab handle, I made from copper wire, a bit soft! I did try brass but the ends kept breaking off when manipulating the flats when setting the angle so that the handle stood away from the body. The door handle, I think, is one of Mike Williams' filed down to shape. I suppose that one could solder these up as 'T' sections too and then file to shape but I think I would use silver solder as much stronger. Next on the to do list is the roof.Jon
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
This item should have been part of my previous post.
What do people think that the thickness of roof boards were? My gut feeling would be 1" to 1 1/2", does that sound about right?
Jon
What do people think that the thickness of roof boards were? My gut feeling would be 1" to 1 1/2", does that sound about right?
Jon
jamiepage
Western Thunderer
Jon,
A drawing for an early (ex- SM&AR) M&SWJR horsebox shows tongue and grooved planks. Thickness is not given, but they scale out at 3/4in..
However, it looks appreciably thicker in photos of that particular prototype; the drawing shows the planking was cut flush to the body all round (no overhang) with a moulded section pinned over the joint- along top of sides and ends. Presumably these were to hold roof canvas in place- and perhaps guttering as well.
So even though the roof described a simple arc on this vehicle, the boards did not overhang the sides or ends, and the roof gives the impression of being quite thick.
More usefully, a couple of MR drawings are clearly annotated and show the roofs covered with 1in. thick tongue and grooved planks.
One, an arc roofed variant, does in this case show the 1in. planking simply overhanging sides and ends, with no moulding strips or guttering.
I guess I'm suggesting that 1in. plank thickness seems ok, but the roof edges may have looked thicker on some vehicles due to some form of moulding or guttering strips around the roof/ body join.
Thoroughly enjoying your progress with this model,
Yours,
Jamie
A drawing for an early (ex- SM&AR) M&SWJR horsebox shows tongue and grooved planks. Thickness is not given, but they scale out at 3/4in..
However, it looks appreciably thicker in photos of that particular prototype; the drawing shows the planking was cut flush to the body all round (no overhang) with a moulded section pinned over the joint- along top of sides and ends. Presumably these were to hold roof canvas in place- and perhaps guttering as well.
So even though the roof described a simple arc on this vehicle, the boards did not overhang the sides or ends, and the roof gives the impression of being quite thick.
More usefully, a couple of MR drawings are clearly annotated and show the roofs covered with 1in. thick tongue and grooved planks.
One, an arc roofed variant, does in this case show the 1in. planking simply overhanging sides and ends, with no moulding strips or guttering.
I guess I'm suggesting that 1in. plank thickness seems ok, but the roof edges may have looked thicker on some vehicles due to some form of moulding or guttering strips around the roof/ body join.
Thoroughly enjoying your progress with this model,
Yours,
Jamie
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
Thanks, Jamie, 1" it is then.
Jon
Jon
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
I'm having problems with a, making the roof for the horsebox and b, making it removable. Any ideas anyone, please.
A 1" thick roof equates to just over 1mm in G3 terms so, styrene seems the obvious choice as trying to hand roll a curve on a piece of 1mm thick brass to me is a non-starter.
Jon
A 1" thick roof equates to just over 1mm in G3 terms so, styrene seems the obvious choice as trying to hand roll a curve on a piece of 1mm thick brass to me is a non-starter.
Jon
AndyB
Western Thunderer
A bit of a late response - but here is an extract from the General Arrangement drawing for a Midland horsebox of similar vintage.
The 1" thickness dimension can be seen on the roof boards (which have separate tongues), and there is a small cornice moulding between the roof overhang and the sides.
Andy
The 1" thickness dimension can be seen on the roof boards (which have separate tongues), and there is a small cornice moulding between the roof overhang and the sides.
Andy
jamiepage
Western Thunderer
Jon,
I would still cast a vote for aluminium sheet.
It is available in usefully sized rectangular/ square sheets and various thicknesses, including iro 1mm.
It cuts well with a scrawker, ie score and snap, sands well, and is easy to roll to a radius. It is of course self supporting.
It can be scored lightly to suggest the planking and covered with paper or material of choice to represnt the canvas weatherproofing.
Yours
Jamie
I would still cast a vote for aluminium sheet.
It is available in usefully sized rectangular/ square sheets and various thicknesses, including iro 1mm.
It cuts well with a scrawker, ie score and snap, sands well, and is easy to roll to a radius. It is of course self supporting.
It can be scored lightly to suggest the planking and covered with paper or material of choice to represnt the canvas weatherproofing.
Yours
Jamie
jamiepage
Western Thunderer
This sort of thing, maybe.
I have no idea what this particular supplier is like, but 'thin aluminium sheet' brought up a number of options on ebay.
Aluminium Plain Plate & Sheet various thicknesses and sizes available
Yours
Jamie
I have no idea what this particular supplier is like, but 'thin aluminium sheet' brought up a number of options on ebay.
Aluminium Plain Plate & Sheet various thicknesses and sizes available
Yours
Jamie
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
Thanks for that, Jamie, I'm inclined to give them a try and maybe you will think I ought to give them a try too after seeing my effort at a styrene roof. This one was heated to 150 @ 20 mins. 
Jon
Jon