Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
I recall assisting a certain individual with some research on the LSWR G6 and there are three significiant variants commensurate with the batches and build dates.
LSWR G6 0-6-0 tank engine
- Thread starter Jon Nazareth
- Start date
I recall assisting a certain individual with some research on the LSWR G6 and there are three significiant variants commensurate with the batches and build dates.
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
Dave,
That’s absolutely brilliant. Thank you for taking the trouble to look it up. I’ll have a look at the RAL fan in the morning.
Thanks again
Jon
That’s absolutely brilliant. Thank you for taking the trouble to look it up. I’ll have a look at the RAL fan in the morning.
Thanks again
Jon
John Duffy
Western Thunderer
This is wonderful and developing really nicely.
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
Brian
I know what you mean and all that I can say is that my version will be loosely based on number 257. I haven't the skills to paint her accurately but she will be in 'Holly Green' with or without the black facings and lining.
Jon
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
Dave
I've ordered an aerosol tin of 08-C-33 from the BS range. Most livery lists for the G6 say that the cab was paint in Buff but recently, I've read somewhere that the cab was painted in Tan. So, I'll use the same pant for the inside of the frames and the inside of the cab, that'll save a few pennies.
Jon
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Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
Now, here's something. In this picture, number 257 doesn't seem to have any balance weights on it's wheels.
Comments from all of you knowledgeable folk will be much appreciated.
Jon
Comments from all of you knowledgeable folk will be much appreciated.
Jon
timbowales
Western Thunderer
As the balance weights are usually (but not always) opposite to the crankpins they are hidden behind the splashers?
Tim T
Tim T
I have just looked online at lswr G6 locomotives and , most images of the locos are parked as above, but yes there are also pictures of them without. There are also pictures with quite big balance weights , and you would see them with the loco parked in the above position, so looks like 257 may not have them.
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
I shan’t bother with the weights then. I presume that they would have been cast into the wheel. The ones in the kit are sheet brass and would have had to be glued onto the spokes.
Jon
Jon
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
Model it as seen in the photo you're using .
No balance weights in photo = no balance weights on model
.
.No balance weights in photo = no balance weights on model
.
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
This is a follow on from the post that I started in Questions and Queries re painting Slaters wheels.
Thinking about painting the wheels with regards to protecting the threads and cleaning up areas where the paint is not needed i.e., prevention is better than cure. I decided to make up these washers which are the same diameters as the brass inserts for the crankpins and the axles which are held in place with 6BA screws. Some may think it a lot of bother but it was far easier for me to make up these washers than to sit with a scalpel scraping off paint.
Jon
Thinking about painting the wheels with regards to protecting the threads and cleaning up areas where the paint is not needed i.e., prevention is better than cure. I decided to make up these washers which are the same diameters as the brass inserts for the crankpins and the axles which are held in place with 6BA screws. Some may think it a lot of bother but it was far easier for me to make up these washers than to sit with a scalpel scraping off paint.
Jon
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
Thinking about painting again but this time the assembled frames. It's quite a weighty item and too heavy for a 'painting stick' bolted to one of the buffers. I looked at Christopher Vine's book on How (not) to paint a locomotive and he put together quite an elaborate piece of kit to paint his 7 1/4" frames. I didn't want to go down his road but thought that there must be a more simple way of holding a chassis so that all parts are accessible for painting.
Can I ask the question, how do other G3 modellers go about the task of painting locomotive frames?
Jon
Can I ask the question, how do other G3 modellers go about the task of painting locomotive frames?
Jon
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
I've been rootling around in the shed and have come up with an idea. I thought that I would post this in case folk come up with explaining elaborate schemes.
Jon
Jon
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
The good news is that I managed to make up a hand held stand to paint the frames. The bad news is that the RAL colour that I mixed for the loco hasn't turned out to be what I was after. RAL 6007 is described as bottle green and the sample in the fan looks bottle green. The paint that came out of the aerosol to me wasn't at all like a bottle green. It was more like a dark olive green, something that would look good on an army vehicle. I discovered all of this after I had painted all six wheels. Not sure why I kept going with the painting after first glimpsing the colour, one of those curious things I suppose. I finished up the afternoon cleaning the paint off with cellulose thinners and re priming in grey. Actually, the bad news started yesterday. I sprayed one wheel with the self etch primer but because the pressure in the can wasn't very high, I ended up putting too much on and ended up cleaning all of that off too. I think that the offending paint colour shows in the picture next to the RAL sample. Believe me, it ain't! The next RAL colour that I'm going to try is 6012 but having looked at it again, it looks a bit bluey although it's described as black green, schwarzgrun. Just before sitting down to write this, I did spray a flat piece of aluminium with the bottle green. Tomorrow, I'll take a picture and hopefully it'll show what I mean.
The frames have a better story. After making up the hand held stand, I gave them a coat of self etch primer, the grey sort, which I already had. Tomorrow, if it's another fine day, I'll give them a primer coat.
Jon
The frames have a better story. After making up the hand held stand, I gave them a coat of self etch primer, the grey sort, which I already had. Tomorrow, if it's another fine day, I'll give them a primer coat.
Jon
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
The frames had a primer coat yesterday and today at close of play, the sun came out and so, I put some paint on the insides of the frames. I'm going to give them a week or so for the paint to harden off completely. Then, I'll de-nib the outer faces, mask up and spray them. I'm hoping that by leaving them for a week, non of the paint will come away with the masking tape when it's removed.
With regards to the ramblings of the right/wrong paint above. The bottle green came out looking nothing like how I would have expected it. On that basis, I'm going to try a different RAL number this time which is called Blackgreen or Greenblack depending how the German is translated. I'm working on the theory that as the bottle green came out lighter than expected, if the same things happens to the blackgreen, it may not matter so much and it will have to do. The mixed tins of aerosol are something like £22 each which makes for an expensive project if they are changed too often.
The boiler comprises a wrapper formed around two rings with all soldered in place. The kit contains two brass strips that are to be formed into rings/plugs and soldered to the insides of the boiler rings. I felt that, for me, there was a chance of this not working and so, I machined down this piece of bronze tube to act as a continuous plug. It was raining today and so seemed a good idea at the time.
A couple of pictures to show the continuous plug inside the boiler prior to parting off and one all ready for soldering.
With regards to the ramblings of the right/wrong paint above. The bottle green came out looking nothing like how I would have expected it. On that basis, I'm going to try a different RAL number this time which is called Blackgreen or Greenblack depending how the German is translated. I'm working on the theory that as the bottle green came out lighter than expected, if the same things happens to the blackgreen, it may not matter so much and it will have to do. The mixed tins of aerosol are something like £22 each which makes for an expensive project if they are changed too often.
The boiler comprises a wrapper formed around two rings with all soldered in place. The kit contains two brass strips that are to be formed into rings/plugs and soldered to the insides of the boiler rings. I felt that, for me, there was a chance of this not working and so, I machined down this piece of bronze tube to act as a continuous plug. It was raining today and so seemed a good idea at the time.
A couple of pictures to show the continuous plug inside the boiler prior to parting off and one all ready for soldering.
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
What colour primer did you use as it makes a difference? To deepen the tone you would need a black or dark grey. The primers for greens are generally blue or yellow.
RAL 6007 Flaschengrün (bottle green) is correct as it was a German Railway standard color and looks right in your photo for 1939-59 German coaches.
For the 'bottle green' as described in the ex-LSWR colour table linked in post #38 then RAL 6035 is the closest match.
I've added the nearest RAL colours for those in the LSWR colour table for the Adams period.
And more..... Tell me to be shut up if I've been going on too long.
RAL 6012 Schwarzgrün (black green) may be be too dark.
RAL 6020 Chromoxydgrün (chrome green) looks like this (my photo taken under a daylight bulb).
Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
Dave
I have no objections at all to you writing whatever you like in this post. On the contrary, it's nice to have folk making comments good or bad. I'm surprised that no one has said anything about the madness of me turning down a piece of bronze from 2.414" down to 1.765" and skimming the inside too. Maybe people just thought it.
I've been going over colours again and I've changed my mind once again and have gone and ordered a couple of aerosol tins of RAL 6009 and not the much darker RAL6012. The 6009 does have a bit more of the look of being based on a green.
I've attached an extract from Southern Liveries Part One to add even more cats among the pigeons.
Jon
P.S. The story of basing colours on holly leaves is also told about the Goods Green used on the LBSCR locomotives. I can't remember where I've read that though.
I have no objections at all to you writing whatever you like in this post. On the contrary, it's nice to have folk making comments good or bad. I'm surprised that no one has said anything about the madness of me turning down a piece of bronze from 2.414" down to 1.765" and skimming the inside too. Maybe people just thought it
.I've been going over colours again and I've changed my mind once again and have gone and ordered a couple of aerosol tins of RAL 6009 and not the much darker RAL6012. The 6009 does have a bit more of the look of being based on a green.
I've attached an extract from Southern Liveries Part One to add even more cats among the pigeons.
Jon
P.S. The story of basing colours on holly leaves is also told about the Goods Green used on the LBSCR locomotives. I can't remember where I've read that though.
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Jon Nazareth
Western Thunderer
And, looking at the tan colour above, it doesn't look anything like the one that I eventually sprayed onto the frames which was, BS4800 08 C 33.
Jon
P.S. I think that we should have a smiley that is shown raising his/her shoulders in a shrug.
Jon
P.S. I think that we should have a smiley that is shown raising his/her shoulders in a shrug.
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
P.S. I think that we should have a smiley that is shown raising his/her shoulders in a shrug.
Haha - as long it's a Gallic shrug...
The problem with colour is it's so subjective and the descriptions are based on what the viewer saw/perceived in the lighting conditions at the time.
Even more difficult with pre-grouping colours as there's no-one around today who can remember. The closest we are likely to get is from early preserved steam locos such as Gladstone and including those by preserved by British Rail in the 1950's and 60s which would have been repainted in their workshops by people (albeit elderly) who had worked on the railways from the pre-grouping days. Later colour matching would be to those samples.
At the end of the day I'd go with what looks right to your eyes.
I'm afraid I'm one of those modellers who looks a several colour photos (and colour plates for pre-group) knowing there will be a tolerance for processing and computer imaging and just make it up from there. Since most of my locos and rolling stock is weathered no-one will know. On the other hand it sure fire gets the pedants going - much to my amusement
.