Mickoo's American Modelling Empire

simond

Western Thunderer
We had a “pull off” at the late Ken Stansfield’s outdoor line some twenty years ago. I forget the actual results but Pete Finch’s H15 (might have been an S15) beat my 52xx by a few wagons. We were up in the 70’s or 80’s. It was level.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
In other news I finally found some time to do some HO trainset work.

A few weeks back I bagged these from a well known auction site, up until now I've only ever bought O scale brass imports but these were a silly price and all boxed up to. I have to confess my inception into US railroads in the early 90's was through George Cockles book on the UP, specifically the SD40-2 chapter and since then they've been a corner stone (though often muted) of my US Railroad interests.

Both are factory paint jobs and someone has done some weathering, it's not bad but it's not the best it can be and rather than re-strip I'll use it as a base and hopefully blend it in here and there a bit better.

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The other project to gain some momentum is some Amazon domestic intermodal containers, Scaletrains did a run but they got snapped real fast and as far as I know are not in the re run list anytime soon. Luckily Fusion do a decal pack so those were procured and so were some blank containers from Woo Shun Tan Kin hobbies or some such far eastern trader.

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The biggest problem so far has been, what the hell is Amazons intermodal container colour, technically as far as I can ascertain its 232F3E which to the rest of us is squid ink ‍♂️ from some angles it looks blue, others a dark charcoal grey. In the end I just went with something close as it changes hue in direct sunlight, shade, LED lighting and on the layout, I also think that once the decals are added and a satin coat is added it'll all change again.

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There is a slight variation in hues as I mixed several batches and blew lighter or darker coats over the base colour, the real things are never all uniform; mind the fourth from right needs another blow over as some of the base coat is still showing through.

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The photo of all the painted containers stacked is a good example, they all look dark grey except the front solo which has changed hue due to the decal sheet in front of it.

So it's decal time, I've plenty spare so if it all looks rubbish I can strip and redo.

Having worked in the container industry I felt it worth exploring the different types in the Amazon fleet (real nerdy anorak stuff). Most US domestic containers have a different style of ribbing, usually on the doors and head end sheet, typically larger/deeper and fewer transverse ribs. International (deepsea) containers usually have more and thinner vertical ribs which matched the donor models.

FUWA build the smaller more vertical type, as far as I can tell, CIMC, DFIC and Jindo build the larger fatter horizontal ones, thus there are more of the latter; luckily Amazon still has hundreds if not thousands of FUWA's to choose from.
 
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mickoo

Western Thunderer
Works for me, might be a little to dark and a little too blue but it does change to a more grey colour at certain angles. I've got some Tamiya matt varnish on order so I'm sure they'll have an effect as the gloss coat is picking up a lot of refracted light.

Just need to paint the twistlock pockets and door handles, I couldn't easily get them off without damaging them so a little bit of silver/metallic grey paint to bring them out as yet.

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Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
I've got some Tamiya matt varnish on order so I'm sure they'll have an effect as the gloss coat is picking up a lot of refracted light.

If it's their Flat Clear then it's good stuff but watch out as the instructions do make it clear not to use on decals. If anything I'd seal the decals first with a gloss varnish then use the Flat Clear.

I suspect the Tamiya Flat Clear is a similar formula to Testors Dullcote which did attack decals if heavily applied. Testors Dullcote rattle cans have not been exported outside the US for a while now apart from to Canada. Not even sure if the Testors Dullcote is still available in bottles.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Appreciated, I've read that else where as well, thin light coats seems to be the answer but beware of milky finish if too thin. I've got a can of gloss and matt coming which I'll decant and use in an airbrush diluted for finer control.

What gloss varnish do you use to seal your decals. I've tried Vallejo and AK and couldn't get on with either to be honest, I do have some celly lacquer but that might attack the decals as well.

Back in the old days we never had any of these issues, I'd happily blatt Tamiya matt over finished models straight from the can and can't recall any issues.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Peter (@Spike) has recently lettered a GW shunter's truck and what follows is what was used / done.

First, brass body sprayed with etch primer followed by acrylic GWR grey.
Next, Windsor & Newton acrylic gloss varnish.
Then waterslide transfers.
Finally, Windsor & Newton acrylic matt varnish.

I think that the chariot may visit Croscombe / Masborough in a couple of weeks.

Rgds, Graham
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
What gloss varnish do you use to seal your decals. I've tried Vallejo and AK and couldn't get on with either to be honest, I do have some celly lacquer but that might attack the decals as well.

For my buses painted with enamels (bus colours don't seem to be available in acrylics) I use Alclad II gloss lacquer to seal my decals.

I've seen on several military modelling forums they use Tamiya Flat in light coats.

Back in the old days we never had any of these issues, I'd happily blatt Tamiya matt over finished models straight from the can and can't recall any issues.

I'd try it out on one container and if it goes pear shaped it appears you have plenty of decals or alternatively just weather that container.
 
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