7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench

Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen

Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen

Western Thunderer
mickoo said:
More Gladiator 2P meanderings, the 'to do' list is getting smaller, or was until the LMS book turned up, I preferred it when I didn't know anything :)) But, the remit is an out of the box build as far as is reasonably practicable.

The cab'll get a new lower rear wall and shelf and the tank extensions at the front, cab doors and roof will complete the basic structure. Up front I'll need to fabricate the Auto control gear and work out how to replicate all the buffer beam attachments. The tank tops need a few details, some lifting lugs which are not in the kit and I'll tweak the tank straps a bit more like the prototype.

View attachment 180533

View attachment 180534

View attachment 180535

View attachment 180536
Click to expand...
Hate to be picky Mick but on the 3rd photo is that left hand side bunker back/side join not quite right?

Tim
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Mudhen said:
Hate to be picky Mick but on the 3rd photo is that left hand side bunker back/side join not quite right?

Tim
Click to expand...
Tim,

It's fine, the grey mark is actually solder that has turned dark after cleaning :thumbs: It needs a little scrub up to get it back nice and bright.
 
John Baker

John Baker

Western Thunderer
I love watching a master a work! Apologies if this question has already been covered, but how do you attach the prints to the brass? Just regular epoxy glue, or do you screw the larger ones to the footplate?
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
John Baker said:
I love watching a master a work! Apologies if this question has already been covered, but how do you attach the prints to the brass? Just regular epoxy glue, or do you screw the larger ones to the footplate?
Click to expand...
I'm not sure the title of master is worthy yet...if ever :D

The question has been asked and I have written words before, but there was fringe interest was my take away from it all. It's actually a very critical part of the process, in fact it's the first part of the whole process as it determines the design of the 3D printed part.

Most are held with Devcon 5 minute epoxy but never flat to flat faces, just doesn't work I've found. Over time the two dissimilar materials flex and the print pops off. I usually solder a small hoop of wire that goes inside the cavity of the print, then the adhesive bonds to that and the inside of the print and I've not had one fail yet. It's actually quite hard to get them off if you've made a mistake or it twisted slightly when the adhesive set.

For chimneys I rebate the inside around the opening and glue thin walled tube in place, that then passes through the smoke box and is secured with adhesive. Domes just have a printed peg glued into a hole in the bottom that then passes through a hole in the boiler wrapper.

The smoke box is bolted to the footplate and boiler front with 8BA screws, same for the firebox to the boiler rear and cab front, a little bit of Devcon smeared on the joining faces helps lock it all tight as the screws are tightened; I always leave the screws in as a back up fixing.

If possible I'll bore a hole through the middle for smaller parts, things like the brake hanger castings are slid over 1.0 mm wire which also holds the metal hanger, the print takes no weight or forms any part of the the load bearing, it's just cosmetic. The same applies to the safety valves, in this case bored and pinned with 1.2 mm wire right through and trimmed on top to represent the fixing on the real thing; much stronger than the white metal offerings in the kit.
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
mickoo said:
The question has been asked and I have written words before, but there was fringe interest was my take away from it all. It's actually a very critical part of the process, in fact it's the first part of the whole process as it determines the design of the 3D printed part.
Click to expand...
Hello Mick,
I do not know how you measure interest in what you write, suffice to say that I take extreme interest when you start writing about the boundaries of 3DP... and securing a 3D print to a metal structure is definitely far left field in the interest ratings (in spite of, as you note, the need to consider just what method of securing does need to be addressed in the early days of designing parts).

regards, Graham
 
Pencarrow

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Regarding 'fringe interest' Mick, you have my sympathies. It is a downside of WT that most responses are the 'like' box rather than a conversation. I've been posting about my latest building build on my Pencarrow thread for weeks and I must admit I'm starting to wonder if I'm talking to myself...:(
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Dog Star said:
Hello Mick,
I do not know how you measure interest in what you write, suffice to say that I take extreme interest when you start writing about the boundaries of 3DP... and securing a 3D print to a metal structure is definitely far left field in the interest ratings (in spite of, as you note, the need to consider just what method of securing does need to be addressed in the early days of designing parts).

regards, Graham
Click to expand...
It's quite simple, you write a long wordy post, take photos and post up and then get lots of likes and no dialogue. To me that's an abundant lack of interest, hence why my posts are much shorter and less detailed than before these days.

I try to write engaging, interactive and hopefully educational posts, not lectures, clearly I'm failing ;)

Regarding securing prints, I've lost count of the number of comments where people complain their prints fall off, it's always the prints fault or the adhesive, I'm afraid not, it's failed because it was designed poorly with no forethought into the final application.

Here's a good example of fixing tender axle boxes, simply design a corresponding 3D plug with flange on, this passes through the tender frames and into the rear of the axle box and bonds the two together.

There's usually enough room between the frames and Slaters wheels for fine scale to take a 0.6 mm flange, if not, just skim a little off the wheel hub. The trimming of the wheel hub is inverse thinking for many, but you've effectively made the axle box the dog and the hub the tail, if you did it the other way around then you'll compromise your axle box securing plug.

Image.jpg
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Pencarrow said:
Regarding 'fringe interest' Mick, you have my sympathies. It is a downside of WT that most responses are the 'like' box rather than a conversation. I've been posting about my latest building build on my Pencarrow thread for weeks and I must admit I'm starting to wonder if I'm talking to myself...:(
Click to expand...
Boom, finally someone bold enough to raise the topic, I've skirted around the issue for years, personally the like button should be banned, here, Facebook, WhatsApp, everywhere. It makes people lazy and reduces interaction to a level where people who do write stuff become disillusioned.

I don't often use the like button...except in the cases where folks have written one liners that really only need a nod to acknowledge the other persons input. I do have to confess secretly (so don't tell anyone else!) to just liking some of your posts in Pencarrow...with a view to going back or writing something at the end, but, here's the frightening bit, since having Covid four times now...I simply forget, short term memory is shocking.

It's a lame excuse I know and I make a mental note frequently to make amends....but then forget :cool:

As I wrote this I knew I have something else to do after...but have totally forgotten by now :eek:
 
mickoo

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Mudhen said:
Mick,

Bugger! finally thought I found an error in your work :) Back to the workshop now and create some more scrap.
all the best
Tim
Click to expand...
No problems, you feel free to keep pointing stuff out, I've often spotted something in the photo that I missed on the model during the build and subsequent 1:1 handling.
 
Heather Kay

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
If you take the "like" button away, though, I won’t have anything with which to register my interest. Posting a one word reply really won’t cut it.

Over on Britmodeller, for instance, there are some members who visit a dozen or more threads and insist on replying with "that’s nice", "lovely build", "excellent stuff". They add nothing to the conversation that tapping "like" wouldn’t do.

I often don’t feel able to comment or ask pertinent questions, but still want the writer to know what they’ve written has been noted and, well, liked.
 
Dog Star

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
mickoo said:
It's quite simple, you write a long wordy post, take photos and post up and then get lots of likes and no dialogue. To me that's an abundant lack of interest, hence why my posts are much shorter and less detailed than before these days.

I try to write engaging, interactive and hopefully educational posts, not lectures, clearly I'm failing ;)

Here's a good example of fixing tender axle boxes, simply design a corresponding 3D plug with flange on, this passes through the tender frames and into the rear of the axle box and bonds the two together.
Click to expand...
Mick,

There have been several posts where I have thought "how has he (Mickoo) achieved that?"... and not asked for fear of raising a question about an aspect of your professional work that you might wish to keep under wraps. Bingo! apparent lack of interest.

The drawing and text about retaining the axlebox is smart, informative and educational, just how I like things. Thank you.

regards, Graham
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
What's New?
Top