mickoo
Western Thunderer
Is it a cat?Is the cat dead or alive?
My current conundrum is if trees actually make a sound when they fall and you're not there?
7mm Mickoo's Commercial Workbench
- Thread starter mickoo
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My current conundrum is if trees actually make a sound when they fall and you're not there?
mickoo
Western Thunderer
The problem here (as explained several times elsewhere....social media.... in the last few hours) is that it's all bespoke to this model, which makes it sort of commercially unviable, unless you start to add in grey areas to compensate.Wow, amazing work on the valve gear. I take it the brass tube in the above photo is used to thread on the balance weights and gubbins, and then just push the axle through the tube ?
Stephensons Link Valve Gear is very commonly used, any chance you could print some of them ? I have recently fitted some inside valve gear to one of my locos, and although there is a great sense of achievement to see it all wiggling around, the wiggling is hardly noticeable… I for one would benefit greatly, as my next two loco both have Stephensons valve gear, and life’s too short..
Cheers, Martyn.
However, it is viable if you expend some energy in communicating accurate measurements for a specific given model and there are decent drawings to work from.
There's a lot of compensation on this 4F due to the narrower frames for OF, narrower than they actually need to be in all honesty....well unless you wish to run it around your Xmas tree curves that is. That applies to the cylinder block, motion bracket and thickness of cranks and motion etc, I also had to hack the top off my leading axle horn guides or cut through the slide bar. There's also some simplification of parts, whilst you can draw it in CAD and then ramp up the resolution in the print there does become a point where the energy expended is not worth the final result buried deep in an engine.
The brass tube slides through the main cranks and eccentrics and then over the axle, just gives a better running surface when that end sits on top of the axle. The other bits and pieces are just metal pins to fix it all together. Because I had already fixed the cylinder block in I had to make the slide bar assemblies separate, otherwise they could be part of the motion bracket.
The connecting rod little ends are not pinned but a snug fit in the crosshead, a dab of Loctite will secure them pretty well, same for the expansion links into the rocking levers and weight shaft drop links.
I get where you're coming from with life's too short to make it all working and I'd love to streamline these modules for others, which engines were you considering?
3 LINK
Western Thunderer
I have two locos planned for the winter months, a Churchward/Collett 2884 class 2-8-0, and a Churchward mogul 2-6-0 which will be either a 63xx or a 73xx.
I can understand some of the complexities of designing something like this in 3D, and from what you have explained to me, it is a far from simple task. Plug in and play would be great.
All the best, Martyn.
I can understand some of the complexities of designing something like this in 3D, and from what you have explained to me, it is a far from simple task. Plug in and play would be great
.All the best, Martyn.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Who's kits?I have two locos planned for the winter months, a Churchward/Collett 2884 class 2-8-0, and a Churchward mogul 2-6-0 which will be either a 63xx or a 73xx.
I can understand some of the complexities of designing something like this in 3D, and from what you have explained to me, it is a far from simple task. Plug in and play would be great
All the best, Martyn.
GWR is pretty standard with set rod lengths depending on wheel diameter basically, plus there's no inside cylinder block to contend with or motion bracket, therefore the only critical dimension is the centre of the eccentrics to the centre of the rocking arms.
All in all, very simple to do and certainly cost effective, it's when you start adding slidebars and crossheads and cranks and lifting links it all gets messy.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
I've got a MOK 75000 build to start next week and the client wants a Mk2 tender with smaller windows, the kit does parts for a Mk2 but the rear spectacle plates are the larger type. Not sure as yet as to why or where the bigger windows were fitted as both Mk2 and 2A can have smaller windows.
I need to work up new etch sheets for the tender front and rear with the smaller windows, there will probably be a couple of spare sets (to fill the minimum etch sheet size order) so if anyone want's some to share the costs, just shout out
The artwork will go in Monday so as to avoid delays in the build.
I need to work up new etch sheets for the tender front and rear with the smaller windows, there will probably be a couple of spare sets (to fill the minimum etch sheet size order) so if anyone want's some to share the costs, just shout out
The artwork will go in Monday so as to avoid delays in the build.
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mickoo
Western Thunderer
Okay, no problems, I'll see if I can find some works drawings as well, you'll need the weight shaft and that'll have a metal pin right across so you'll need to drill the frames in the right place to support that and possibly make up a little stub at the front where the rocking arm attaches to.
There's also a big casting on the side where the expansion link swing links attach to, you're going to need to drill that and solder a bit of wire in to support that as well.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
No, I'm going this month
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
3 LINK
Western Thunderer
No, I'm going this month
Crumbs, first of the month, pinch, punch and all that
..I agree, it was b***dy freezing last year, do you think they were trying to get rid of us, down in that basement !!
Regards,
Martyn.
Clarence3815
Western Thunderer
Will you be with Finney 7 or as yourself?
mickoo
Western Thunderer
So do I, I popped into the Skating rink next door and it was warmer in there
I'm taking full thermals, working on the theory it's easier to take them off than to put them on if you don't have them.
If it's cold again this year then I suspect many will never go again and I'll hang it out until I've seen all my clients and then leave, perhaps empty tables will be the prod they need to sort it out......doubt it though.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Finney7 are not going, I'll be there with Warren as Nick has pulled out and Warren might as well as yet, in which case, as noted above, I'll see who I need to see and then leave.
warren haywood
Western Thunderer
mickoo
Western Thunderer
75000 tender front artwork done and sent off, I'll get hold of everyone once I get an accurate invoice back but the initial costing of £20 ea + P&P is looking pretty close bar a few pennies
I've also been advised the 2-6-0 76000 had BR2 tenders as well so this'll suit those with smaller windows as well.
I've also been advised the 2-6-0 76000 had BR2 tenders as well so this'll suit those with smaller windows as well.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Quite a productive week it has to be said, mind, MOK are what I call Ronseal kits, does what it sez on the tin.
Complex, fiddly, detailed but above all, fits where it should and castings that frankly need the barest of cleaning up to make good.
There was some slow going in the begining to fit roller bearings but by good chance the cast wheels have smaller axles so the ball bearings OD is just over the top hat bearing size. The extra work was in making the rocking ones flexible, ideally ball bearings need to be fixed to the axle and the housing. The MOK kit has small tabs to hold the bearings and these have enough float to achieve both once opened out.
Other than a few castings at the rear (maybe first thing tomorrow or more as likely Monday before I hit the engine chassis in earnest) there's not a lot more (the ladder I'm leaving of until last) I can do until the new cab fronts come back.
I did find the curl to the etches frustraiting (not a MOK issue) and in my case the nickel silver is the softest I've ever worked with, almost brass softness so extra care needed with overlays etc.
There's a couple of small gaps that'll need some fine milliput in and some even smaller seams which I'll coat with a high fill etch primer and dress back.
Complex, fiddly, detailed but above all, fits where it should and castings that frankly need the barest of cleaning up to make good.
There was some slow going in the begining to fit roller bearings but by good chance the cast wheels have smaller axles so the ball bearings OD is just over the top hat bearing size. The extra work was in making the rocking ones flexible, ideally ball bearings need to be fixed to the axle and the housing. The MOK kit has small tabs to hold the bearings and these have enough float to achieve both once opened out.
Other than a few castings at the rear (maybe first thing tomorrow or more as likely Monday before I hit the engine chassis in earnest) there's not a lot more (the ladder I'm leaving of until last) I can do until the new cab fronts come back.
I did find the curl to the etches frustraiting (not a MOK issue) and in my case the nickel silver is the softest I've ever worked with, almost brass softness so extra care needed with overlays etc.
There's a couple of small gaps that'll need some fine milliput in and some even smaller seams which I'll coat with a high fill etch primer and dress back.
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mickoo
Western Thunderer
Another week done and dusted, slightly better progress this week, no matter how many parts you put on the model, the bits in the box never goes down
No major issues so far other than a casting (engine rear buffer plate) being missing, quite a big chunky one so easy enough to 3D and drop in; hidden up under the footplate it'll not make much shakes if it's brass or 3D.
I had one small niggle with the coupling rods, there's no need for a jig as you can only put the axle box etched guides in one place and such is the accuracy of the kit etches, wheel crankpins and coupling rod etches that you basically don't need a jig.
The issue I had was one crankpinwas a little tight at 15:00 but fine for the rest of the rotation, given the accuracy of everything it really couldn't be the etches, quartering or rods, it was only about 2 thou or so. Turns out the square axle bearing was slightly out in one axis, the hole being fractionally offset. Rotating the bearing 90° to but the offset vertically instead of horizontally solved the problem.
Bear in mind these axles boxes are standard square 3/16" ones bored out to 5 mm so it's possible one wandered a fraction during that process.
On the plus side, the tender front etches should be here tomorrow it Mr Pat and his cat are on form.
No major issues so far other than a casting (engine rear buffer plate) being missing, quite a big chunky one so easy enough to 3D and drop in; hidden up under the footplate it'll not make much shakes if it's brass or 3D.
I had one small niggle with the coupling rods, there's no need for a jig as you can only put the axle box etched guides in one place and such is the accuracy of the kit etches, wheel crankpins and coupling rod etches that you basically don't need a jig.
The issue I had was one crankpinwas a little tight at 15:00 but fine for the rest of the rotation, given the accuracy of everything it really couldn't be the etches, quartering or rods, it was only about 2 thou or so. Turns out the square axle bearing was slightly out in one axis, the hole being fractionally offset. Rotating the bearing 90° to but the offset vertically instead of horizontally solved the problem.
Bear in mind these axles boxes are standard square 3/16" ones bored out to 5 mm so it's possible one wandered a fraction during that process.
On the plus side, the tender front etches should be here tomorrow it Mr Pat and his cat are on form.