Check the brakes on your mineral wagon. I’m 99% sure the shoes should be on the other side of the wagon (end door at the left hand end when looking at the side with the brake shoes).
Mike G's Workspace.
- Thread starter Mike Garwood
- Start date
Check the brakes on your mineral wagon. I’m 99% sure the shoes should be on the other side of the wagon (end door at the left hand end when looking at the side with the brake shoes).
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Hi John
I’ve sent for Vallejo Bronze green and also some Humbrol Brunswick green.
A bit of experimenting to see if either colour are of any use…or is it a wait till 30/11 - when a certain person has gone out for the whole day.
Mike
I’ve sent for Vallejo Bronze green and also some Humbrol Brunswick green.
A bit of experimenting to see if either colour are of any use…or is it a wait till 30/11 - when a certain person has gone out for the whole day.
Mike
Edwardian Fred
Member
Hi Mike,
Humbrol Brunswick Green is a pretty good match. Just a matter of whether you prefer acrylic or enamel.
John.
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
They do it in acrylic, I sincerely hope that's what I've ordered. If enamel turns up, then I may as well wait till the month end and go the whole hog with cellulose.
Mike
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
The Humbrol acrylic arrived today. It's bright and much lighter, so a dark primer would be needed. The Vallejo choice should be here tomorrow. Once I've had a play with that, I'll make a decision which one to use. Or may be even hang it out till the end of the month when SWMBO is away for the day and the celly can come out to play.
The 51xx has received 200 gms of lead and is nicely balanced, so the compensation will work properly. Plenty of room to add more, should it be needed. While I was waiting for the glue to dry, I got on with the 16t min and finished it. As always it all fits.
Since I took this, it's been sprayed and weathered. One of the joys of using acrylic paint - very fast drying time, that and the fact there's no nasty smells to linger.
While the paint was drying on the mineral, it was time to clean and then paint the chassis, cab roof and the cylinders.
The body is still being cleaned, I did a really good job making a mess! And I'm still getting a white powdery finish to any excess solder, none on the brass. I think the next scrub will be with Mr Muscle bathroom cleaner, see if that makes a difference.
Tomorrows job will be to wheel the beast and get the motor and gearbox in and then think of some way of constraining this. Gearbox is from High Level 40:1 and one of Mr Gibbons 1320 motors - I used this combination in the 43xx. Which I really liked.
Friday should see this going up to Barrow Road for a run around and look for any obvious gremlins.
Stay safe
Mike
The 51xx has received 200 gms of lead and is nicely balanced, so the compensation will work properly. Plenty of room to add more, should it be needed. While I was waiting for the glue to dry, I got on with the 16t min and finished it. As always it all fits.
Since I took this, it's been sprayed and weathered. One of the joys of using acrylic paint - very fast drying time, that and the fact there's no nasty smells to linger.
While the paint was drying on the mineral, it was time to clean and then paint the chassis, cab roof and the cylinders.
The body is still being cleaned, I did a really good job making a mess! And I'm still getting a white powdery finish to any excess solder, none on the brass. I think the next scrub will be with Mr Muscle bathroom cleaner, see if that makes a difference.
Tomorrows job will be to wheel the beast and get the motor and gearbox in and then think of some way of constraining this. Gearbox is from High Level 40:1 and one of Mr Gibbons 1320 motors - I used this combination in the 43xx. Which I really liked.
Friday should see this going up to Barrow Road for a run around and look for any obvious gremlins.
Stay safe
Mike
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
As usual life got in the way of my plans for the 51xx. So, I took my pannier 7724 and its coaches along with my 8f to Barrow road. It must be 10 odd years since I ran the 8f last. Not surprisingly it was a reluctant runner, so has been re-boxed and joined the County awaiting further attention. I've now bought new coupling rods for the County, so once I've finished the 51xx and a new project (started today), those engines will be getting some attention. The 8f has a first generation DCC chip in it, so I've placed an order for a new chip.
In the meantime...
I've fallen onto the trap of starting something new without finishing the current project. And I'm shying away from wheeling the damn thing...no idea why. I did manage to give it another good wash and is now dried and in a secured plastic sealed bag, awaiting paint.
Over the last few days I've been tidying my study and have found (to my dismay) more kits on the shelves of shame. As I'm still building engines, coaches and wagons for Hengoed, I thought I'd give this a whirl.
14t tank wagon. This is the Bachmann model.
Lurking in the background is the Vallejo paint for the 51xx, having given it a good shake and a little spray, I'm going to use this for the 51xx. The colour really is very good.
So the chassis going under this tank will be from from - wait for it - the Rumney Models range...that's not a surprise for anyone. This chassis is a departure from Justin's normal design, there is not a solid base from which to build.
Once the etch has been cut it's a case of building the skeleton. This consists of two parts - an upper and lower - chassis, which are then soldered together. The solebars have a very clever way of being put together as they are in their own jig. Fabulous piece of design!
So, that's as far as I've got today. The chassis looks so prototypical, it's a real piece of eye candy - if you're really into wagon underframes.
Stay safe
Mike
In the meantime...
I've fallen onto the trap of starting something new without finishing the current project. And I'm shying away from wheeling the damn thing...no idea why. I did manage to give it another good wash and is now dried and in a secured plastic sealed bag, awaiting paint.
Over the last few days I've been tidying my study and have found (to my dismay) more kits on the shelves of shame. As I'm still building engines, coaches and wagons for Hengoed, I thought I'd give this a whirl.
14t tank wagon. This is the Bachmann model.
Lurking in the background is the Vallejo paint for the 51xx, having given it a good shake and a little spray, I'm going to use this for the 51xx. The colour really is very good.
So the chassis going under this tank will be from from - wait for it - the Rumney Models range...that's not a surprise for anyone. This chassis is a departure from Justin's normal design, there is not a solid base from which to build.
Once the etch has been cut it's a case of building the skeleton. This consists of two parts - an upper and lower - chassis, which are then soldered together. The solebars have a very clever way of being put together as they are in their own jig. Fabulous piece of design!
So, that's as far as I've got today. The chassis looks so prototypical, it's a real piece of eye candy - if you're really into wagon underframes.
Stay safe
Mike
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
The 16t min has been completed, but once you've seen one 16t min you've seen them all really. That is, of course, a complete generalisation - given the proliferation of these beasts and the variety of them.
Back to the current project...with the chassis well under way, it's time to tackle the brake gear. Those of you that regularly build Rumney Models kits, will know, that the brake gear is usually great fun combined with a little more frustration (for those with sausage fingers anyway). The design method of the brakes for this, have taken that frustration away. There are 3 layers for these. All jigged together...like this.
This approach really takes the pain away, and you're left with this once you have freed the brakes from the frame with a piercing saw.
If all my brakes had ended up looking this good, I would be over the moon. Brilliant design.
Here's the chassis with the second V added on both sides. The brakes clip into the bones of the chassis and I chose to solder them home from the top of the chassis.
A few more little bits to add to this and the chassis will be complete. This has been a breath of fresh air, absolutely loved this build so far. However, there is a little digging to be done on the Bachmann body. Like the bad sports that they are - they haven't considered putting a proper chassis with their model - which means they've put big lumps of plastic in the way of this lovely chassis, so out they must come. Fortunately I have some real grinding tools that remove plastic as if it weren't there. This will, of course, be a real mess maker.
Stay safe
Mike
Back to the current project...with the chassis well under way, it's time to tackle the brake gear. Those of you that regularly build Rumney Models kits, will know, that the brake gear is usually great fun combined with a little more frustration (for those with sausage fingers anyway). The design method of the brakes for this, have taken that frustration away. There are 3 layers for these. All jigged together...like this.
This approach really takes the pain away, and you're left with this once you have freed the brakes from the frame with a piercing saw.
If all my brakes had ended up looking this good, I would be over the moon. Brilliant design.
Here's the chassis with the second V added on both sides. The brakes clip into the bones of the chassis and I chose to solder them home from the top of the chassis.
A few more little bits to add to this and the chassis will be complete. This has been a breath of fresh air, absolutely loved this build so far. However, there is a little digging to be done on the Bachmann body. Like the bad sports that they are - they haven't considered putting a proper chassis with their model - which means they've put big lumps of plastic in the way of this lovely chassis, so out they must come. Fortunately I have some real grinding tools that remove plastic as if it weren't there. This will, of course, be a real mess maker.
Stay safe
Mike
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
The 14t tank wagon chassis is now complete. Rumney models springing works best with about 50 gms of weight, which brings about a problem with a spiders web chassis. The solution was to drill into the sealed body of the tank. Took all of 10 seconds to do that, then came the next problem - it was the steel weight running through the middle of the tank. Luckily I have a cheap vertical drill and another 10 seconds later, I had a suitable hole through to the second section of the tank. I have to confess that this is the first time I've used the drill and to my surprise the stop button didn't work - at all! Fortunately the power off switch is accessible. As I said...cheap.
Years ago I ran out of lead, I never thought of keeping my off cuts, that taught me a valuable lesson and since then I have always kept the lead stragglers in a seal able container. So instead of sending for some lead balls, I spent an hour cutting up some suitable stragglers into a size that I could use.
This lot weighed in at 34 gms and another hour of putting them into place with tweezers! Once in I thinned down some water based glue and used a syringe to pump it into the right place. This then went onto a radiator to cook for a couple of hours. For the record the body now weighs 58 gms.
Thursday 10:30, and the wife set off for Worcester...
Thursday 10:31, time to get the paint out. I used a mixture of burnt umber and black grey with some 'flow improver'.
Seriously impressed with the result.
Then the body was mounted on the chassis and now I need to weather the body as it sticks out like a sore thumb. But I'm really pleased with the result...so why no wheels, I'll explain.
Next thing was to completely clean the air gun - Iwata TRN2. The 51xx had already had it's final hard clean, so as Mr Rathbone had suggested a wash over with cellulose and a stiffish brush to remove the remainder of any grease on the brass. After that I put the model onto the radiator to warm up and give the cellulose time to dissipate.
I used Vallejo primer. I really rate this stuff.
I left this for 2 hours to dry. And then on with the top coat...
The only thing I'm disappointed in is that dried matt. Had it dried gloss I would have been completely blown away. The colour is a very good match for what I have in my cellulose stock.
It's been a really good day, tomorrow will see the springs and wheels go into the tank wagon.
Stay safe
Mike
Years ago I ran out of lead, I never thought of keeping my off cuts, that taught me a valuable lesson and since then I have always kept the lead stragglers in a seal able container. So instead of sending for some lead balls, I spent an hour cutting up some suitable stragglers into a size that I could use.
This lot weighed in at 34 gms and another hour of putting them into place with tweezers! Once in I thinned down some water based glue and used a syringe to pump it into the right place. This then went onto a radiator to cook for a couple of hours. For the record the body now weighs 58 gms.
Thursday 10:30, and the wife set off for Worcester...
Thursday 10:31, time to get the paint out. I used a mixture of burnt umber and black grey with some 'flow improver'.
Seriously impressed with the result.
Then the body was mounted on the chassis and now I need to weather the body as it sticks out like a sore thumb. But I'm really pleased with the result...so why no wheels, I'll explain.
Next thing was to completely clean the air gun - Iwata TRN2. The 51xx had already had it's final hard clean, so as Mr Rathbone had suggested a wash over with cellulose and a stiffish brush to remove the remainder of any grease on the brass. After that I put the model onto the radiator to warm up and give the cellulose time to dissipate.
I used Vallejo primer. I really rate this stuff.
I left this for 2 hours to dry. And then on with the top coat...
The only thing I'm disappointed in is that dried matt. Had it dried gloss I would have been completely blown away. The colour is a very good match for what I have in my cellulose stock.
It's been a really good day, tomorrow will see the springs and wheels go into the tank wagon.
Stay safe
Mike
John Duffy
Western Thunderer
simond
Western Thunderer
Mike,
your “water based glue” isn’t PVA is it? I assume you’re aware of the swelling problem, but just in case
Post in thread 'Liver & Fry's workbench'
Liver & Fry's workbench
fingers crossed
Simon
your “water based glue” isn’t PVA is it? I assume you’re aware of the swelling problem, but just in case
Post in thread 'Liver & Fry's workbench'
Liver & Fry's workbench
fingers crossed
Simon
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Simon
Yes PVA and yes to the expanding problems. That’s why the hole I drilled has been left unplugged so any gases can escape. I’ve seen first hand what a blocked in PVA solution can do to a model…not a pretty sight and quite distressing.
Thanks for the reminder.
Mike
simond
Western Thunderer
Mike
sorry to bang on about this, but it is not a "gas" problem (MEK does have this issue). The issue is lead acetate which is a solid and forms on the surface of the lead shot.
I do recall an article that described the chemistry, but I can't find it. These are relevant and the first one confirms my recollection
Roket Card Glue - does it react with Lead like PVA?
Hi, I believe Roket Card Glue is recommended for card kits so I thought about asking in the card modelling section but thought you would understand my fears better here. I have a wagon with 'liquid lead' attached by being flooded with 'Roket Card Glue' making a solid mass. I know there is a react...
www.rmweb.co.uk
Dangers of PVA?
I've just read that using PVA to secure 'Liquid Lead' is a very bad idea because after a few years the PVA/Lead expands 'exploding' the model! It this true? If it is, i've go some serious emergency digging to do.
www.modelrailforum.com
Edwardian Fred
Member
I just poured ball bearings in and sealed the hole. No glue, makes a nice maraca.
John.
John.
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer
Adam
The examples I found on Paul Bartletts site all showed a mucked up solebar. The colour was completely unrecognisable. I didn’t find an Esso tanker on there. But I take your point.
This kit was completely enjoyable. I put the wheels in today…another wagon that rolls off the desk!
Mike
AJC
Western Thunderer
The red solebar was a standard identification feature of class A railtanks, post-war, regardless of operator so it really ought to be red!
Adam
Nick Rogers
Western Thunderer
Good morning Mike,
Nice to see you progressing with various projects. The 51xx is looking very nice. I have one to build myself one day… that’s a very long way off mind!
Keep up the good work.
All the best,
Nick.
Nice to see you progressing with various projects. The 51xx is looking very nice. I have one to build myself one day… that’s a very long way off mind!
Keep up the good work.
All the best,
Nick.
Mike Garwood
Western Thunderer