Mike G's Workspace.

Mike Garwood

Mike Garwood

Western Thunderer
Tim Hale said:
Mike,

I have saved the images of the Mobil 14t as I was lucky enough to find a NOS example recently for the Inglenook that is ‘the last project’. I also own two Dapol AM 14t but the Bachmann Mobil has always been a favourite but eluded me, your images will be used to guide me.

Thanks, Tim
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Hi Tim
Some sage advice that was passed to me…never model a model. Find a photo, go from there.
I used a photo for mine but having found what I wanted, I did note that some of these beasts had tie bars and not just axle keeps.
Something to bear in mind.

Look forward to seeing your progress.

Mike
 
Tim Hale

Tim Hale

Western Thunderer
Mike Garwood said:
Hi Tim
Some sage advice that was passed to me…never model a model. Find a photo, go from there.
I used a photo for mine but having found what I wanted, I did note that some of these beasts had tie bars and not just axle keeps.
Something to bear in mind.

Look forward to seeing your progress.

Mike
Click to expand...
Mike,

Weathering is the task that I need to complete, your example is definitely good enough to provide ideas.

Tim
 
Mike Garwood

Mike Garwood

Western Thunderer
Bit the bullet and fitted the Counties brakes. And a little more weathering - if you can spot it...

GWR County of Middlesex 2.jpg

Scalefour next weekend and my club will be exhibiting (Abergavenny Black Brook), have a chat with the fellas they'll appreciate it. The Friday after I have a dentist appointment, followed by a quick sprint down the M5 and a visit to Barrow Road. I'll certainly have the County with me but I'm hoping to have another engine as well plus all the stock that's been built but not tested.

Stay safe

Mike
 
Mike Garwood

Mike Garwood

Western Thunderer
After another trip to Barrow Road, it's been quite a day...

I took the GWR 51xx as I'd got the beast to run smoothly. The last reason that it didn't run was the balance weights being too thick as they fouled the coupling rods as they passed. But this was an intermittent fault, it didn't always happen, so it was difficult to catch. I replaced the etched affairs with some very thin plastic card. Really pleased with the smooth running - considering this has been through 3 sets of wheels and a chassis rebuild. I've also had to get a new set of steam chest from Comet and move their centres out as when I tried those from the kit crosshead would not pass the first driver. I'm still working on that and I shall do a post to show what exactly I've done. I can't be the only one who finds this a real PIA.


I also brought with me the gunpowder vans, 14t oil tank and the A44 coach. Also in the bag went the County. There are some videos on my channel that show these models strutting their stuff.

The County did run, now I need to refine the brakes, because the ones I drew are actually acting as brakes! The only way to get her to run was to really turn the power up. So another step forward, but half a step back!
A very encouraging day! On the right path, just have to keep going to fall over the finishing line.

Have a good weekend all and stay safe.

Mike
 
Mike Garwood

Mike Garwood

Western Thunderer
Captain Kernow said:
Very nice running there, Mike.

Also good to see the progress that Robin has made on Barrow Road and the most impressive collection of motive power on shed - wonderful!
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Tim and Dave

Every time time I step thru the doors of the shed, I am blown away by the quality Robin continues to put into Barrow Road. The man is one 'complete' modeller and a wonderful bloke and friend. I'm so lucky to be able to go and run some of my engines there.

Mike
 
adrian

adrian

Flying Squad
Mike Garwood said:
I took the GWR 51xx as I'd got the beast to run smoothly. The last reason that it didn't run was the balance weights being too thick as they fouled the coupling rods as they passed. But this was an intermittent fault, it didn't always happen, so it was difficult to catch. I replaced the etched affairs with some very thin plastic card. Really pleased with the smooth running - considering this has been through 3 sets of wheels and a chassis rebuild.
Click to expand...
Looking good, smooth running but not helped by the rear bogie in the last 15 seconds.
 
Yorkshire Dave

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Mike Garwood said:
No, my sprung solution has not worked. I'm still thinking about it, but a more mechanical remedy may be appropriate. What that will entail...
Click to expand...

I noticed in your earlier post #506 the 51xx has a trailing radial box. Rather than utilise springing - and if the radial box is free floating and retained in the chassis by other means - is there sufficient space to put some weight on top of the radial box to apply downward pressure?

In a later post I note you had built two 56xx 0-6-2T. Do they have radial boxes for the carrying wheels. It it worth looking at those to see how the trailing axle is sprung?
 
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Mike Garwood

Mike Garwood

Western Thunderer
Yorkshire Dave said:
I noticed in your earlier post #506 the 51xx has a trailing radial box. Rather than utilise springing - and if the radial box is free floating and retained in the chassis by other means - is there sufficient space to put some weight on top of the radial box to apply downward pressure?

In a later post I note you had built two 56xx 0-6-2T. Do they have radial boxes for the carrying wheels. It it worth looking at those to see how the trailing axle is sprung?
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Hi Dave

There is already lead on top of the radial truck, I'm thinking of gluing more to the bottom. Looking at the way the truck fell off the rail, I also wonder if there's a force being exerted (inadvertently) by one or both of the springs. To bottom this problem out requires further observation and experimentation. As I said in a previous post I'm very skeptical over radial trucks and their use. Relying on gravity of weight doesn't really sit well with me. I do like proper solutions that I can replicate and know that the system will work if I have to employ this on another engine...not that this is likely to happen.

The 2 56's, one is Comet, the other is High level. The HL chassis has compensated radial truck, being compensated off the final driver. The Comet chassis is basically a 'T' shaped bogie attached to the chassis with a nut and bolt. I think I added some lead to that, I'd have to check.

regards

Mike
 
Yorkshire Dave

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
One solution I came up with on my O scale LBSC E4 0-6-2T - which may be or not be helpful in a smaller scale where space is at a premium - was to use handrail knobs and brass wire.

RTruck 1.jpg

I have annoted the same photo (below) to provide more explanation. All handrail knobs and springing is down the centreline of the chassis.

By mounting the handrail knob on the base of the radial truck means the spring wire is pulling the truck down to the rail rather than having pressure applied from above.

It did take some trial an error to get the spring strength desirable and once it was running as I wanted I then soldered the wire to the handrail knob on the truck.

RTruck 2.jpg
 
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Mike Garwood

Mike Garwood

Western Thunderer
Yorkshire Dave said:
One solution I came up with on my O scale LBSC E4 0-6-2T - which may be or not be helpful in a smaller scale where space is at a premium - was to use handrail knobs and brass wire.

View attachment 224702

I have annoted the same photo (below) to provide more explanation. All handrail knobs and springing is down the centreline of the chassis.

By mounting the handrail knob on the base of the radial truck means the spring wire is pulling the truck down to the rail rather than having pressure applied from above.

It did take some trial an error to get the spring strength desirable and once it was running as I wanted I then soldered the wire to the handrail knob on the truck.

View attachment 224701
Click to expand...
Hi Dave

I like the idea of sleaving the spring to cut out shorts...what did you use?

regards

Mike
 
Mike Garwood

Mike Garwood

Western Thunderer
GWR 51xx

This post has been has been over due for at least 6/9 months!

As discussed in a previous post, the cylinders would not allow the crossheads to pass. Two solutions, open up the etch and re-solder or move the piston centres out. I went with option 2.

This is the etch as provided from Comet.

Comet GWR cylinder etch 1.jpg

The parts circled (badly) are integral to opening out these centres. The centre of these holes are 4mm from the bottom of the etch. This is useful as when the smaller of the 2 is opened out to 1.5mm (same size of the tube used for the piston sleeves) we have a parallel line between the front and back of the cylinders. Next I scribed a line 1mm out. I should add that this 1mm measurement is purely guess work. A round file used to open out the holes to the corrected diameter. Then soldered in the brass tube.

Comet GWR cylinder etch 2.jpg

I used the Brassmasters etch for the 43xx for the new slide bars and crossheads. What surprised me most was that these (slide bars) were the correct length and that the G hangers were in the correct place as well. He shoots and he scores...less work! The rest is just adding the detail.

Comet GWR cylinder etch 3.jpg

I reused the drain cocks from the Finney kit. This time there was no messing about with the slide bars, the crossheads ran perfectly first time. Unlike the ones I built for the County which took a lot of fettling to get to run smoothly. Blame the builder not the kit...
Once this had been completed out with the air brush to push some matt black over them. Added the coal to the bunker and used micro sol for glazing the cab windows - which turned out really well...another surprise. This kit had one more surprise left, the fixing holes in the chassis actually married up with the holes in the body!

GWR 51xx completed 1.jpg


GWR 51xx completed 2.jpg


After 18 months of trials and tribulations this is done - a bit of weathering to do but that'll wait till next year when SWMBO goes on her hols again. More running in at Barrow Road in the near future.

Would I build another...umm, no. And fortunately I don't need to either.

So whats next...I fancy building some more coaches, namely my M set (the last coach set that I will need for Hengoed). So, there are 4 sets of 9 foot bogies to build first.
Thanks to everyone that helped with ideas that have got me through this build. And special thanks to my pal Morgan Gilbert for sorting out the third set of wheels :) .

Stay safe

Mike.
 
Bulldog3444

Bulldog3444

Active Member
Good to see that you have got to the end of this build - well done!

Mine hasn’t moved forward at all in the past year, so I’ll try to use your progress as a stimulus to get on and finish it.

Ian
 
Nick Rogers

Nick Rogers

Western Thunderer
Great stuff, Mike. Lots of inspiration for my modelling this winter! I’ve got (a very long way down the line) the same kit to do: I’ve taken notes!

All the best,
 
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