2mm Modbury

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
With nothing to distract the eye there is nothing to indicate that this is 2mm scale! Absolutely superb model making with everything, trains, track, buildings and foliage to the same, very high, standard.

Ian.
 

Ian Smith

Western Thunderer
With nothing to distract the eye there is nothing to indicate that this is 2mm scale! Absolutely superb model making with everything, trains, track, buildings and foliage to the same, very high, standard.

Ian.
Thank you for those very kind comments.

I am lucky in that I enjoy all aspects of modelling, from the track work and everything that runs on it to the scenery and buildings and thence to the details which includes the population. As such I try to apply a reasonably constant approach to all that I do, where everything sits well together.

Although I am happy with what I’ve achieved so far, it is humbling to see that my endeavours are appreciated by others. Thank you!
 

Mikemill

Western Thunderer
Ian

I enjoyed your video, you captured the atmosphere of a rural branch line very well, a superb layout all together.

As a dyed in the wool GWR man I think the Edwardian period of the GWR was its most elegant.

Mike
 

Ian Smith

Western Thunderer
Back to the 517 ...

Over the last few days I've been working up the smaller bits and bobs. Firstly, the tank fillers : These have been made in my usual fashion by turning up the main body of the filler (with a small mounting spigot), the top of the filler is then cut laterally across with a piercing saw. This slot is to accommodate the closing "strap" which is formed from some sheet material, in this case 0.008" as that was to hand (in the past I've used 0.010"). Once soldered securely in the slot, files are brought to bear to shape the "strap" - This time I elected to also include the locking handle in this fretting operation, in the past I've always soldered on a bit of fine wire to represent the handle but this time I thought I'd try fretting it as I thought it might be a bit stronger and also a damn sight easier!!


The embryonic Tank Filler cap, the turned element held in the end of an Archemedian drill showing the slot sawn across the top. The bit of 0.008" which will be whittled away to form the closure "strap" and handle lying next to it.


The bit of 0.008" shown in place in the slot to show the starting point (the sheet wasn't soldered in place for this shot).


The completed pair of Tank Fillers after all the fretting and filing operations were complete.

The other little bits included the Tank Toolboxes. For these I took a length of 3mm square brass bar and filed it down along its length to bring it down to the width and height of the toolboxes (the height was actually a little below the eventual height as I intended to form the lids from 0.004" nickel silver sheet). The top was then filed to the curved profile of the lid. It was then a simple matter of cutting lengths off this bar and truing up the ends to give me half a dozen toolbox shaped pieces - why half a dozen? Well, obviously I needed 2 for the 517, I still needed 2 for the Dean Goods tender and while I was at it I thought I might as well make an extra pair for a Duke that will be my next loco project.

Once I had a basic toolbox shape, I tinned the top, tinned a small over-sized piece of 0.004" and fixed the latter on top of the basic box (obviously, I had previously bent the lid around a drill shaft so that it sat snuggly on top of the box). Files were then brought to bear on the edges of the lid to bring it down to size so that it just overlapped the edge of the box all round. Rather than faff around trying to solder tiny bits of shim on to represent the hinges and locking hasp, on these I decided to try a different approach - I found a piercing saw blade that would cut about 0.010" wide, and proceeded to cut little slots across the corners of the lid/side where the hinges and hasp would be. Then small offcuts of etch waste were soldered into these slots, and finally the etch waste was filed down so that it was a little proud of the lid and sides. Hopefully, the photos below will illustrate.


A pair of Toolboxes, one with the lid soldered in place and filed down to size, the other with the addition of the 3 saw cuts plugged with 0.010" etch waste.


A pair of the completed Toolboxes after the etch waste had been filed back to leave something to represent the hinges and the locking hasp.

Today, the relevant bits have been through the first part of the paint shop - they've been primed.


The various parts of the 517 after priming.

Finally, a pair of posed shots with all of the little bits plonked in place :





As may be noticed, the drivers have also had their balance weights added, these are simply arcs of 0.010" plasticard cut and filed to shape/size and superglued in place. Also I've filed and bent up the front guard irons, and again these have been superglued in place on the side of the chassis (the rear guard irons are part of the outside frames for the trailing wheels).

Thanks for looking,
Ian
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
You're bloody bonkers, Ian, but I so admire your ability to produce something so precise and detailed in such a tiny frame. I'm struggling with 7mm FS so have nothing but admiration for your work.

Brian
 

Ian Smith

Western Thunderer
The 517 has now been painted ...

After priming, I utilised some Archer's Rivet Transfers (3 different spacings) applied to the tank sides and around the bunker - closely spaced ones along the top and bottom of the tanks and around the bottom of the bunker, a strip of slightly wider spaced rivets were applied vertically midway along the tanks and also down the rear of the bunker in line with the strengthening steps on the inside, finally even wider spaced rivets were placed on the tank sides where (what I assume were) internal baffles/bulkheads within the tanks were fitted. Further waft of primer was then applied to secure the rivets.

Over the last couple of days the rest of the painting has been taking place, and once finished the buffer heads, tank fillers and toolboxes were attached with superglue. The Dome and Safety Valve covers have been polished and given a coat of gloss varnish and secured with their bolts. I've also scraped the paint off the handrails. The boiler bands are simply strips cut from some transfer film that I'd brush painted with body colour (I brush painted it to get a slightly thicker paint layer than I would have got by spraying).

A couple of photos of where I'm at :





The lining is predominantly Fox transfers, the curved lining around the cab side cutouts being brush painted freehand. Turned spectacle plates have also been fitted, secured with dabs of varnish.

I've still got to make and fit the whistles, backhead and brake gear and of course source some number plates for her.

Thanks for looking.

Ian
 

Ian Smith

Western Thunderer
A little work on my Summer/Autumn project ...

For this build I've decided to veer away from my usual solid milled brass chassis, so a couple of pieces of 0.5mm phosphor bronze were sweated together then fretted and filed to shape (after the axle holes were drilled) :


Once separated, cheeks of thin double sided PCB were soldered in place where the frame spacers will go, I cut the frame spacers from fairly robust 1mm brass. With rods to help with the alignment, the two frames were soldered to the frame spacers :


I have decided to use another of the Tramfabriek 6mm diameter motors in this build, so a motor/gear block was milled up from solid brass :


The outsides of the frames were chemically blackened, and the previously painted wheel sets were inserted, quartered and set to the correct back-to-back - rather pleasingly, the quartering was spot on first time (using the sighting through the spokes method), and only needed the crankpin holes to be opened out a smidge to get a perfectly running and free-rolling chassis!! :


And the components bolted together :


Having never built a loco in any scale with outside valve gear, I'm going in at the deep end because this little thing needs the full monty of Walchaerts valve gear, so that will be my next challenge!

A short video to illustrate :


Thanks for looking.
Ian
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
Good lord, a railmotor! At least, I assume that's what it is, because I can't think of anything GWR with four coupled wheels that small (at that date, active in Devon). Cracking work so far, good luck with the valvegear...

Adam
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Adam,

I was on the same page, the Walschaerts is a bit of a give-away too, assuming it’s not an Avonside…

atb
Simon
 

Ian Smith

Western Thunderer
Good lord, a railmotor! At least, I assume that's what it is, because I can't think of anything GWR with four coupled wheels that small (at that date, active in Devon). Cracking work so far, good luck with the valvegear...

Adam
Adam, it will indeed be a railmotor. Worsley Works do a body etch “scratch aid” for No.93 (built 1908). I intend to amend the etch to produce an earlier 70’ railmotor more suitable for my 1906 period - I think the main differences are the engine room windows and the recessed passenger door (earlier ones had double doors)
 

Ian Smith

Western Thunderer
Progress(?) of a sort with the Steam Railmotor ...

With the power unit running (albeit without its full set of Walchaerts motion), I decided that I should now turn my attention to the upper works with the items provided on the "scratch aid" etch from Worsley Works.


The etched parts provided in the "scratch aid" kit. As can be seen there are a pair of sides and ends and an underframe floor.

Initially, I turned my attention to the underframe. This comprises a floor with two fold up uprights to prevent the body sides from bowing inwards, and a pair of parts to fold into an L profile to represent the solebars. These parts were separated from the etch, the relevant folds made and strengthened with solder and the solebars united with the floor. The only hitch on the way was one of the tabs not the sole bar didn't align with its slot in the floor, so the tab was simply filed off. Despite varying my soldering points to minimise heat build up, I did end up with a very slightly bowed underframe, pressing it firmly down onto a sheet of tufnol and re-applying the iron along the floor where the sole bar slots were eradicated this issue though.


A not very clear photo of the assembled underframe (solebars at the bottom, upright support for the body sides top).

As I mentioned in my previous post, I am trying to build an SRM from an earlier lot than the preserved 1908 dated No.93 that the etch represents. The main differences that I can see is that the earlier lot(s) started life with a pair of large windows to the engine compartment (later the windows were reduced in size, a panel instated with a cover for the water filler in the middle), and the main compartment passenger door was a pair of narrow doors on the earlier lots.

With the above in mind, the first task was to enlarge the engine room windows on the etch :

First, the existing vertical window bar was removed, and the panel on the side of the windows towards the rear of the coach cut out, making good with fine files.


Second, the new window spaces received a patch of 0.004" nickel silver sheet - I had decided that it would be far better to cut the new windows in situ rather than trying to align pre-formed windows.


Third, a vertical line was marked with a permanent marker where the central window frame will be, a hole drilled in the middle of each window, then files were employed to work outwards from those holes to removed what will be the glazed area of each window.


This gave me a pair of sides with a pair of windows cut out. In reality, these windows should slide, so one should sit behind the other - the jury is still out on whether I will file one of the windows out to the panelling and solder another piece of 0.004" behind and repeat the process to give me a slightly more rebated window (I almost certainly will as I know it will bug me into the future if I don't!!)

The doors to the engine compartment at the front of the coach were next. From what I can see, it appears that the doors did not have a turn-under (indeed the later ones were sliding doors). First though, the turn-under on the coach sides was formed - I always do this by taping the bottom of the side to a piece of 3/4" round bar and forming the turn-under by rubbing along the lower part of the side with my thumb (for the thin-sided panelled coaches that I've built so far this works really well, although I'm not sure how it would work with more modern stock with thicker sides).

To allow the flat door to sit correctly against the inside of the side, I soldered some 0.004" each side of the upper half of the door frame and then soldered the door in place behind that, filling any gaps where the turn-under is with solder.


One of the engine compartment doors in place.

Now comes the problem !!!

When I originally examined the sides to ascertain whether they would be suitable for an earlier variant, one of the things I'd noticed was that the panels each side of the central passenger door(s) were equal width - the one on the side nearest the engine compartment should be wider. I decided that I could live with this minor anomaly, although even No.93 has the old arrangement of panel sizings around the central door so in actual fact there is an error in the Worsley Works artwork. I was hoping that I would be able to modify the existing single door by simply supergluing small pieces of 0.005" plasticard in the various panels/window to give the illusion that it was a double door in my model. However, it transpires that the error in panel width alluded to has introduced another error in the artwork - the door frame is too wide for the door provided :


As can be seen, the door is too narrow for the door frame (I have added a piece of 0.004" behind the door frame as I had for the engine compartment doors, although it is yet to be filed back to the size of the door frame).

I am now in a bit of a quandary, in that I'm not too sure how to progress. As I see it, I can try to make a new set of double doors to fit the door frame which will I will probably do in plasticard and glue in place after all of the soldering has been completed (I seriously doubt that I would be able to fret out a lace of mouldings in nickel silver to apply over a pair of doors). The alternative (if I want to use the existing doors) would be to lose about 1mm of length in the doorway (which would be the easy way to do (but it would give me a 69'6" SRM, which I don't mind if necessary) with potentially just a single door). Decisions, decisions!!!

Either way, I'm going to put it to one side for a few days while I cogitate
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One other thing that I need to check is the coach ends - I'm not completely convinced that they aren't too tall compared to the sides!! I haven't removed them from the fret yet, but a casual look makes me think that they may be! I'll report back on that one.

Thanks for looking,

Ian
 

Joe's Garage

Western Thunderer
The 517 is really impressive, is it really 2 mm??!!
Look forward to seeing the rail motor Ian
Thanks for sharing
Julian
 

Ian Smith

Western Thunderer
A small amount of progress has been made with the SRM, viz the ends ...

In my previous post I remarked that I was concerned that the ends might have been a tad too tall for the sides, I need not have worried as once removed from the fret I was able to compare the relative heights of each and am satisfied that all is well.

On RMweb, Siberian Snooper alerted me to the possibility that the ends when folded to the correct angles may come out too narrow, again on a dry run of folded ends compared with folded up end supports showed that all is well on that front too. Although it has to be borne in mind that the ends are designed to fit inside the sides, so if Siberian Snooper was expecting the sides to fit inside the ends then that would give the impression that the ends were too narrow. (Assuming that the 2mm etch is a shot down version of the 4mm one). So on with this instalment ...

The first step is to fold up the end supports and to open out the body-to-underframe bolt holes to accept 12BA. With that done, 12BA nuts were soldered in position over the holes (on the inside) using a cocktail stick through the hole into the nut to hold said nut in place while a bead of solder is applied. The side supports need to be folded up to the angle of the turn under of the body side rather than a full 90 degree bend. All of the folds were reinforced with a bead of solder.

Before the ends were folded up, I drilled the various handrail holes (these are marked with half-etched dimples on the rear). Once drilled, the ends were carefully folded to the correct angles (comparing the end with the end support). It was then a case of bending up pieces of phosphor bronze wire to the correct sizes to suit the half dozen handrails on each end, and then soldering each in place - I decided to fit the handrails before attaching the ends to their supports because once attached it would be pretty tricky (if not nigh on impossible) to get the iron to the backs of the handrail wires!! Once all the handrails were in place, I filed back the stubs of wire on the inside to allow the end supports to fit unimpeded.

Because of the recessed door at the engine end of the sides, the not-quite-vertical side supports on the previously folded up end support piece need to be filed away to clear the recessed door so that later in the build the side will fit properly - As can be seen I'm thinking ahead on this build for a change!!

It was now that I decided to unite the folded ends with their respective supports. To ensure that the ends would be vertical compared with the base of the support, I double-sided taped an engineers square to a piece of tufnol against which I could push the end while I tack soldered the end support. Once tacked, I checked that the side supports were flush with the edge of the ends (both along the bottom and at each side), and also made sure that the end support was true in all directions (it took a couple of attempts with each end until I was happy with everything). Once satisfied the solder joints were all made good. Hopefully, the image below should illustrate the principal :


The two ends after uniting with their respective end support pieces. Also shown is the taped down engineers square against which the first tack joint was made. As can be seen the turn under support of the end against the square has been filed back to clear the recessed door at this end of the coach sides. Also noticeable is the small patch that I soldered over the holes etched in the ends for mounting the warning gongs - when first built the rail motors did not have gongs instead relying on an ordinary whistle, so I won't be fitting gongs.


The current state of the ends - I have fitted a couple of lamp irons on the engine compartment end (and over-enthusiastically tinned one of the panels on the other end for same). I still need to fabricate and fit steps on both ends too.

Thanks for looking,
Ian

PS
The 517 is really impressive, is it really 2 mm??!!
Look forward to seeing the rail motor Ian
Thanks for sharing
Julian
Julian, thank you for the positive comment, and yes the 517 is 2mm scale (just under 2 and a quarter inches long) :D
 
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