MOK Standard 4 2-6-0 in S7
- Thread starter SteveB
- Start date
Rob Pulham
Western Thunderer
I use a large syringe fitted with one of the broad nozzles that are sold for refilling ink cartridges. Which probably works in the same way as the flux bottle.
My neighbour gave me the syringes (he's a pharmacist) and the nozzles were 80p for 4 and I am still using the first one. I have had this set up for about four or five years now and I wouldn't go back to a brush now.
My neighbour gave me the syringes (he's a pharmacist) and the nozzles were 80p for 4 and I am still using the first one. I have had this set up for about four or five years now and I wouldn't go back to a brush now.
SteveB
Western Thunderer
I mentioned in an earlier post how easy it is to fit a servo for changing the position of the radius rod. Here are a few photos to prove it.
Nickel silver housing for the servo.
Test fitting of the servo. It’s just pressed in, it shouldn’t need any additional retention, but if it does, then a bit double side tape should do the trick.
Housing soldered into the loco.
Servo fitted.
Top view showing the weighshaft joiner and lever. The linkage is just a bit of bent piano wire. The only problem is on a BR standard it will be seen under the boiler, but it shouldn’t be too bad once its all blackened.
Regards
Steve
Nickel silver housing for the servo.
Test fitting of the servo. It’s just pressed in, it shouldn’t need any additional retention, but if it does, then a bit double side tape should do the trick.
Housing soldered into the loco.
Servo fitted.
Top view showing the weighshaft joiner and lever. The linkage is just a bit of bent piano wire. The only problem is on a BR standard it will be seen under the boiler, but it shouldn’t be too bad once its all blackened.
Regards
Steve
Len Cattley
Western Thunderer
Hi Steve, what servo is it?
Len
Len
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
These are the ones I've used in the past..
4pcs Micro 3.7g Mini Servo for Aeromodelling Aircraft Flight Direction RC450 | eBay
JB.
4pcs Micro 3.7g Mini Servo for Aeromodelling Aircraft Flight Direction RC450 | eBay
JB.
SteveB
Western Thunderer
I think I used similar to the ones you've quoted in the Std4 tank, I wanted a slightly smaller one for the 76xxx as there's a bit less room. I actually used these Servo Shop They're quite a bit dearer but smaller.
Regards
Steve
Regards
Steve
SteveB
Western Thunderer
Brakes as well on this one?
Working brakes………………………….funny you should say that, but I have thought of it. Trouble is though, the amount of movement will be so small that no one would notice it.
However, I do have some other crazy ideas that I’m contemplating. I have a Finney7 light pacific to build. Theres loads of space inside, so maybe steam from the whistle and injectors? How about working firedoors?
But my craziest idea is to try and replicate the wheel slip that they were famous for. Weight of the loco would be taken by the bogie and trailing truck, driving wheels, which would only just be in contact with the rails, would be controlled by a DCC decoder linked to chimney smoke. The actual drive and another decoder could be in the tender, with some form of brake to increase the rolling resistance. It may take two people to operate though. Crazy I know, but I dare say I’ll come to my senses before construction starts.
Regards
Steve
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
Brakes are actually quite simple, and in some ways are more effective visually than the reverser, its just that you do need to over-egg the movement a bit..!
One other thought i'd had is a servo-controlled gearbox so that an engine could become dead for moving around, or easily double heading by simply moving a gear, or moving away from the axle. Save all that DCC consisting stuff. However consisting is probably easier than having a servo controlled final drive!!
JB.
One other thought i'd had is a servo-controlled gearbox so that an engine could become dead for moving around, or easily double heading by simply moving a gear, or moving away from the axle. Save all that DCC consisting stuff. However consisting is probably easier than having a servo controlled final drive!!
JB.
simond
Western Thunderer
Steve,
yes, absolutely. If you short the output of a dynamo, the resisting torque increases with speed - I think it's proportional - until something goes fizz.
I've not tried it with DCC decoders fitted, but I do recall that having two portescap-equipped locos, if they were on the same track, you push one, and the other moves. This won't happen with the DCC decoders in circuit, but I'm not sure whether the decoder acts as a brake on the motor by effectively shorting its terminals.
I'm in the middle of fitting new pickups to my 45xx, which had become unreliable after ~ 19 years (of fairly undemanding operation) so when I have finished, I'll experiment!
best
Simon
yes, absolutely. If you short the output of a dynamo, the resisting torque increases with speed - I think it's proportional - until something goes fizz.
I've not tried it with DCC decoders fitted, but I do recall that having two portescap-equipped locos, if they were on the same track, you push one, and the other moves. This won't happen with the DCC decoders in circuit, but I'm not sure whether the decoder acts as a brake on the motor by effectively shorting its terminals.
I'm in the middle of fitting new pickups to my 45xx, which had become unreliable after ~ 19 years (of fairly undemanding operation) so when I have finished, I'll experiment!
best
Simon
SteveB
Western Thunderer
I’ve now fitted the brakes, sanding gear, a bit of plumbing and the motor. A couple of minor problems with the LWC brake brackets and the etches for the sand pipes. The brake brackets, as I’ve designed the replacements would have been ideal for a 30mm wide chassis but were a bit too short for my 29.2mm wide one. Easy enough to get over by just bending the brake levers a bit and filing the inside of the brake shoes to clear the wheel flange. It does however mean that the brake shoes are further in from the outside of the wheel then they should be.
I also just added a thin washer to either side of the brake lever spreaders (not sure what the right name is!) to take up the extra width.
Conversely, the original etches supplied with the kit for the sanding pipes are too wide for S7. I cut and silver soldered them to suit.
If anyone wants to use my files for the S7 etches and castings, then I can correct these so they wouldn’t have the same issue. They’ll need to let me have an original etch for the sand pipes, because in my haste, I didn’t do a drawing before I cut mine up.
![IMG_0897[1].JPG](https://www.westernthunder.co.uk/data/attachments/68/68253-7e1d5f4d36b91bfcd02d88dc4b2d5c43.jpg "IMG_0897[1].JPG")
![IMG_0898[1].JPG](https://www.westernthunder.co.uk/data/attachments/68/68254-695143a6f8217b233beaac19143c79a0.jpg "IMG_0898[1].JPG")
It works and if you look closely you can even see the lubricator drive mechanism working.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oRtE5vz7eg
My next task will be to see if I can encourage the chassis to negotiate the curves on my very short 6’ long test track.
I’ve started on the lubricator oil pipes. These had a fixing to the sand filler tubes on the full size engines. As the cylinder and motion assemblies are removable, I’ve drilled the tubes to accept a couple of pins on this fixing. I’m hoping that I can solder the pipes into the lubricator boxes and gently prize out the pins when they need to come apart. Not sure if it’s going to work as the fixings are quite close to the boxes so they won’t be much flexibility with them.
![IMG_0896[1].jpg](https://www.westernthunder.co.uk/data/attachments/68/68255-701ab17c220dec9acce02f76c8910d9b.jpg "IMG_0896[1].jpg")
Regards
Steve
I also just added a thin washer to either side of the brake lever spreaders (not sure what the right name is!) to take up the extra width.
Conversely, the original etches supplied with the kit for the sanding pipes are too wide for S7. I cut and silver soldered them to suit.
If anyone wants to use my files for the S7 etches and castings, then I can correct these so they wouldn’t have the same issue. They’ll need to let me have an original etch for the sand pipes, because in my haste, I didn’t do a drawing before I cut mine up.
It works and if you look closely you can even see the lubricator drive mechanism working.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=7oRtE5vz7eg
My next task will be to see if I can encourage the chassis to negotiate the curves on my very short 6’ long test track.
I’ve started on the lubricator oil pipes. These had a fixing to the sand filler tubes on the full size engines. As the cylinder and motion assemblies are removable, I’ve drilled the tubes to accept a couple of pins on this fixing. I’m hoping that I can solder the pipes into the lubricator boxes and gently prize out the pins when they need to come apart. Not sure if it’s going to work as the fixings are quite close to the boxes so they won’t be much flexibility with them.
Regards
Steve
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Brake hanger stretcher, beam or plank, take your pick.
Nice work
you can't beat a BR Standard for fiddly and detailed workmanship 
SteveB
Western Thunderer
I’ve now finished the Pony Truck. This is available as an S7 conversion kit from MOK. It consists of a new etch, two main castings and two longer side control springs.
Pretty poor photos………sorry.
Started on the Lubricator pipes. I think pining the pipe straps to the sand filling tubes will work, just, although I’ve got to shorten the pins a bit to make it a little bit easier to prize them out. I’ve just bought myself a nice new blue cutting mat. Shamelessly copying Dikitriki and Mickoo but it does seem to enhance the contrast between the mat and the model, well better than my old dirty green one. It might actually be brown, I’m quite colour blind! I only wish that my modelling skills could get a bit closer to theirs.
Again, apologies for the photos, my iphone doesn't seem to like close ups.
A short video of the rolling chassis on my test track. It seems to negotiate the 6’ radius curves quite well. Although I’ve got very little experience, I have to say that I’m impressed with the CSB style of suspension, even when there’s very little weight on it.
When I ran my Std 4 tank at Albury, which also has CSB, a couple of people mentioned how smooth it was, particularly over the points. I suspect that’s as much a testament to the quality of the point construction and being S7.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrOvMYjEPtM
Regards
Steve
Pretty poor photos………sorry.
Started on the Lubricator pipes. I think pining the pipe straps to the sand filling tubes will work, just, although I’ve got to shorten the pins a bit to make it a little bit easier to prize them out. I’ve just bought myself a nice new blue cutting mat. Shamelessly copying Dikitriki and Mickoo but it does seem to enhance the contrast between the mat and the model, well better than my old dirty green one. It might actually be brown, I’m quite colour blind! I only wish that my modelling skills could get a bit closer to theirs.
Again, apologies for the photos, my iphone doesn't seem to like close ups.
A short video of the rolling chassis on my test track. It seems to negotiate the 6’ radius curves quite well. Although I’ve got very little experience, I have to say that I’m impressed with the CSB style of suspension, even when there’s very little weight on it.
When I ran my Std 4 tank at Albury, which also has CSB, a couple of people mentioned how smooth it was, particularly over the points. I suspect that’s as much a testament to the quality of the point construction and being S7.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=PrOvMYjEPtM
Regards
Steve
Ian@StEnochs
Western Thunderer
Steve,
I find that springing permits locos to glide smoothly over trackwork, even some which is less than perfect, without lurches and with little noise. Your CSB will let individual wheels rise as well as fall against the datum which is so much better than dead springs where the wheels ride on the stops and are only pushed down into dips.
Ian.
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