4mm Monks Ferry LNWR
- Thread starter jonte
- Start date
jonte
Western Thunderer
It is indeed, Chris, thank you. We’re all very relieved too as things got a little dicey at one point, but grateful that it’s all mercifully over.
Best
Jonte
jonte
Western Thunderer
jonte
Western Thunderer
jonte
Western Thunderer
In my attempt to deal with the final hump, fellow Westerners, I managed to remove the old troublesome point prior to dealing with the hump as before:
On this occasion however, I also had to remove a tad more track (headshunt/siding) in order to site the replacement point.
Also different to before, I decided to start the gradient ‘after’ the joint in order to keep the point itself level, which I considered vital to avoid any issues with derailment. In effect, the gradient is now towards the buffer stop end, ensuring that we’d returned to the flat prior to where the uncoupler is sited.
In hindsight, I wish I’d allowed a little more length between the point and the joint, as the short additional lengths were a barrier to ensuring the level through to the join, the track bending slightly at the fish plate despite the rails either side having been previously soldered together. In the end, the secret was to allow a slight gap between the base of the rail and the top of the screw rather than ensuring it sat flat, as during the soldering process, the pressure exerted on the rail caused a droop around the join.
Anyway, testing showed the joints were smooth in operation and that the point is probably the smoothest to traverse out of all, although my supplier was at pains to ensure that it was as serviceable as he could possibly determine before dispatching. Here’s a couple of my loco during testing:
Now I need to fit a point motor, which I’ve already prepared and which I found in an old box whilst routing round for something else! Unfortunately, the existing motor had to be binned as I’d cut off the lugs and superglued it, but no big probs here as described. I shall attach it in the same manner as all the others
I’ll also need to refit the siding track and then glue the card supports in place beneath the platform road.
I’m not sure whether I’ll remove the lugs from the tie bar this time, so as not to risk problems with the smooth operation of the switch rails. It might just be that the points where Ive experienced this type of issue were dodgy to start with, as the bar was supported in all planes while the pips were snipped off, but I really don’t want to tempt fate as I don’t want yet another to repair
Probably best to let sleeping dogs lie.
Cheers
Jonte
On this occasion however, I also had to remove a tad more track (headshunt/siding) in order to site the replacement point.
Also different to before, I decided to start the gradient ‘after’ the joint in order to keep the point itself level, which I considered vital to avoid any issues with derailment. In effect, the gradient is now towards the buffer stop end, ensuring that we’d returned to the flat prior to where the uncoupler is sited.
In hindsight, I wish I’d allowed a little more length between the point and the joint, as the short additional lengths were a barrier to ensuring the level through to the join, the track bending slightly at the fish plate despite the rails either side having been previously soldered together. In the end, the secret was to allow a slight gap between the base of the rail and the top of the screw rather than ensuring it sat flat, as during the soldering process, the pressure exerted on the rail caused a droop around the join.
Anyway, testing showed the joints were smooth in operation and that the point is probably the smoothest to traverse out of all, although my supplier was at pains to ensure that it was as serviceable as he could possibly determine before dispatching. Here’s a couple of my loco during testing:
Now I need to fit a point motor, which I’ve already prepared and which I found in an old box whilst routing round for something else! Unfortunately, the existing motor had to be binned as I’d cut off the lugs and superglued it, but no big probs here as described. I shall attach it in the same manner as all the others
I’ll also need to refit the siding track and then glue the card supports in place beneath the platform road. I’m not sure whether I’ll remove the lugs from the tie bar this time, so as not to risk problems with the smooth operation of the switch rails. It might just be that the points where Ive experienced this type of issue were dodgy to start with, as the bar was supported in all planes while the pips were snipped off, but I really don’t want to tempt fate as I don’t want yet another to repair
Probably best to let sleeping dogs lie.Cheers
Jonte
Roger Pound
Western Thunderer
It is looking very good, Jon. Glad to see that things are turning out so well - operation should be a complete pleasure, as and when 
.
Roger
.Roger
jonte
Western Thunderer
Humps out of the way, fellow Westerners, attention returned to the Gaugemaster uncouplers deployed at the end of each platform road. I’m resorting to these as once the proposed overall roof is fitted, there will be little opportunity to use a paddle to uncouple stock.
I’d originally got as far as drilling the two holes required (11mm apart) and preparing the sleepers. Even at this early stage, I discovered that I would have to divert from the brief instructions, as to make the uncouplers sit below the rails, more sleepers had to be removed than shown. Not a problem really, as aesthetics are secondary to the primary goal of building a working layout. Both would be nice, but beggars sometimes can’t be choosers. Thankfully, the white metal uncoupler plates cover a multitude of sins!
Although not explained in the instructions, it appeared that an iron collar, attached to the shaft via a grub screw, which was a slide fit into the circular shaped solenoid, raised the uncoupler plate when the solenoid was energised; gravity returning it to its starting position when de-energised. A push to make switch was advised, however, I wanted the bank of switches to match, so used some spare centre off switches - wired to one side only - for the job (perhaps aesthetics do matter more than I thought!).
Not the most confident of modellers as I’m sure you’ll have gathered by now, I decided to build a model to practise on, using the same materials as per the baseboard (12mm ply topped with half inch cork).
The instructions stated a 3.5mm drill was required for both holes, however, I had 3 and 4mm bits - isn’t it always the way? - so I started with 3 (too tight) and then 4 (looser, but maybe too loose?), so deciding on doing the job properly, slipped on my clogs and popped to the shops. But the 3.5 was still too tight and required precision drilling which was never gonna happen here, so decided to plump for the 4mm. However, not wishing to throw caution to the wind, I decided to look online to see if others had written about fitting these uncouplers. One helpful individual had indeed and made one or two recommendations, including use of a 4mm drill bit as he’d experienced the same problem. He also recommended countersinking the hole where the shaft exited beneath the baseboard to ensure that the plate to which the solenoid is fitted and wired sits flat. I did same, however, I’m not so sure of its usefulness as the lip of the plate on one had curled up, such that tightening the screw via the hole in the plate provided, saw it sitting at an angle.
He also recommended extending the moulded lug that sits in the adjacent hole and which is countersunk. It’s role is stop the plate yawing left or right in operation and touching the wheels of the stock above it (possible source of a short). He added 5mm, although using code 75 rather than my choice of Streamline, but I did the same for reassurance. I’d intended to use some brass tube for the purpose, but there was a spare piece of plastic tubing sticking out of container at the end of the bench, which was quite a good fit, so the use of my tube cutter and a spot of uhu saw the job done (no superglue in case I needed to make adjustments).
It worked fine on the model, so I went ahead and drilled the layout for real.
Thankfully, those in platform roads one and two worked first time without any issues, although the guesstimated positioning of collar on shaft will require adjustment as the collar doesn’t quite lift high enough. Platform road 3 was a different kettle of fish and involved a lot of faffing about to get it to work, including redrilling the shaft hole and repositioning of some adjacent wires to get it to move freely. Ironically, the height of the collar was right first time as can be seen below, however, I’m going to see if I can adjust it further to ensure it lifts such that the plate is horizontal throughout.
Finally, they don’t sit quite as centrally as intended between the rails. To reduce the risk of shorting, I think I’ll coat the edges of each plate with a film of PVA. I hope and trust I wrote all that clearly enough to satisfy your curiosity, however please accept my sincerest apologies if I managed to lose you along the way. Perhaps the pix attached will clear up any ambiguities.
It’s the furthest three switches from the left in the bank of switches in the above photo that operate the solenoids (by pulling towards you - only a few seconds, mind otherwise there’s a risk of burnout!).
Best
Jonte
Edit to add that I used a second screw against each solenoid plate to align it correctly with the shaft, which also supplemented the only screw provided for:
By adjusting the tension of each screw, I found I could ensure that the solenoid was held against the baseboard in the correct alignment, so that the shaft wasn’t held too tightly inside thus preventing free movement. Jonte
I’d originally got as far as drilling the two holes required (11mm apart) and preparing the sleepers. Even at this early stage, I discovered that I would have to divert from the brief instructions, as to make the uncouplers sit below the rails, more sleepers had to be removed than shown. Not a problem really, as aesthetics are secondary to the primary goal of building a working layout. Both would be nice, but beggars sometimes can’t be choosers. Thankfully, the white metal uncoupler plates cover a multitude of sins!
Although not explained in the instructions, it appeared that an iron collar, attached to the shaft via a grub screw, which was a slide fit into the circular shaped solenoid, raised the uncoupler plate when the solenoid was energised; gravity returning it to its starting position when de-energised. A push to make switch was advised, however, I wanted the bank of switches to match, so used some spare centre off switches - wired to one side only - for the job (perhaps aesthetics do matter more than I thought!).
Not the most confident of modellers as I’m sure you’ll have gathered by now, I decided to build a model to practise on, using the same materials as per the baseboard (12mm ply topped with half inch cork).
The instructions stated a 3.5mm drill was required for both holes, however, I had 3 and 4mm bits - isn’t it always the way? - so I started with 3 (too tight) and then 4 (looser, but maybe too loose?), so deciding on doing the job properly, slipped on my clogs and popped to the shops. But the 3.5 was still too tight and required precision drilling which was never gonna happen here, so decided to plump for the 4mm. However, not wishing to throw caution to the wind, I decided to look online to see if others had written about fitting these uncouplers. One helpful individual had indeed and made one or two recommendations, including use of a 4mm drill bit as he’d experienced the same problem. He also recommended countersinking the hole where the shaft exited beneath the baseboard to ensure that the plate to which the solenoid is fitted and wired sits flat. I did same, however, I’m not so sure of its usefulness as the lip of the plate on one had curled up, such that tightening the screw via the hole in the plate provided, saw it sitting at an angle.
He also recommended extending the moulded lug that sits in the adjacent hole and which is countersunk. It’s role is stop the plate yawing left or right in operation and touching the wheels of the stock above it (possible source of a short). He added 5mm, although using code 75 rather than my choice of Streamline, but I did the same for reassurance. I’d intended to use some brass tube for the purpose, but there was a spare piece of plastic tubing sticking out of container at the end of the bench, which was quite a good fit, so the use of my tube cutter and a spot of uhu saw the job done (no superglue in case I needed to make adjustments).
It worked fine on the model, so I went ahead and drilled the layout for real.
Thankfully, those in platform roads one and two worked first time without any issues, although the guesstimated positioning of collar on shaft will require adjustment as the collar doesn’t quite lift high enough. Platform road 3 was a different kettle of fish and involved a lot of faffing about to get it to work, including redrilling the shaft hole and repositioning of some adjacent wires to get it to move freely. Ironically, the height of the collar was right first time as can be seen below, however, I’m going to see if I can adjust it further to ensure it lifts such that the plate is horizontal throughout.
Finally, they don’t sit quite as centrally as intended between the rails. To reduce the risk of shorting, I think I’ll coat the edges of each plate with a film of PVA. I hope and trust I wrote all that clearly enough to satisfy your curiosity, however please accept my sincerest apologies if I managed to lose you along the way. Perhaps the pix attached will clear up any ambiguities.
It’s the furthest three switches from the left in the bank of switches in the above photo that operate the solenoids (by pulling towards you - only a few seconds, mind otherwise there’s a risk of burnout!).
Best
Jonte
Edit to add that I used a second screw against each solenoid plate to align it correctly with the shaft, which also supplemented the only screw provided for:
By adjusting the tension of each screw, I found I could ensure that the solenoid was held against the baseboard in the correct alignment, so that the shaft wasn’t held too tightly inside thus preventing free movement. Jonte
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jonte
Western Thunderer
It is looking very good, Jon. Glad to see that things are turning out so well - operation should be a complete pleasure, as and when
Roger
Thank you, Roger, for your kind words of support
May I rephrase your last: ‘Glad to see things are turning out so well EVENTUALLY…’
Seriously though, I know I’d have given up well before now if it hadn’t been for such a worthy cause. Glad I didn’t as the serpentine set of the track is not only easy on the eye but quite prototypical too. It really is an attractive design. Mind you, I don’t need to tell you that, Roger
Cheers
Jon
jonte
Western Thunderer
At serious risk of boring you, fellow Westerners, I wish to report the following.
Rather than addressing the missing sleepers, yawning gaps and only half-working uncouplers of the Minories boards subject of my posts thus far, which is what most rational modellers would do, I’d decided in my infinite wisdom to address the fiddleyard sooner rather than later, if for no other reason, than in the interests of continuity. Plus, I couldn’t muster the interest to ‘tidy up’ at present
And so a reminder of where I’d left matters: the end of the ‘world’:
The rail ends needed extending with the minutest of rail sections and then soldered to the brass screws already in place.
Boards joined via male and female connectors together with a set of catches which is the manner in which most baseboards are connected these days:
The first job was to fabricate some more L shaped pins from an old bicycle spoke to ensure the metal clasps don’t come away from their fittings:
Then the rails at the end of the scenic section were extended as mentioned and soldered to the brass screws:
Rather than start the cassettes immediately after the scenic section, I considered it more prudent to commence the fiddleyard with more rail, and then mate with the cassettes inboard, so to speak. Here is the job up to this point completed:
Yes. You’re right. There’s the down line to be fitted. However, this is one reason why I’ve been reluctant to look at the fiddleyard until now. Unfortunately, there isn’t enough space to accommodate two cassettes side by side. The Peco spacings between lines may not be a prototypical six foot way, but they’re still too close for the aluminium angles I’m using I’ve decided to address this by introducing yet more reverse curves to increase the gap which will also allow for fingers to slip between. Unfortunately- gotta stop using this darned negative word - it means the board as it stands will be too short by about six inches or so; fortunately- that’s better - there’s space of this magnitude left at the end of the bench; unfortun… it means I’ll have to fashion an extension! Ah well, c’est la vie!
Talking of cassettes, I’m going to be ‘adopting’ a method I found online. It’s several months since I last familiarised myself with the method - not sure I can find it now - but I think I can remember how it was done - I hope. Anyway,here is a picture of the components from which I’ll be assembling them, plus some ply to build it up to meet the line entering the fiddleyard:
I won’t insult your intelligence, fellow Westerners, with how they’ll fit together as I’m sure you’re all far more familiar with proceedings than me; in fact, I’ll probably lose my way at some point so please stay tuned
Cheers for now.
Jonte
Rather than addressing the missing sleepers, yawning gaps and only half-working uncouplers of the Minories boards subject of my posts thus far, which is what most rational modellers would do, I’d decided in my infinite wisdom to address the fiddleyard sooner rather than later, if for no other reason, than in the interests of continuity. Plus, I couldn’t muster the interest to ‘tidy up’ at present
And so a reminder of where I’d left matters: the end of the ‘world’:
The rail ends needed extending with the minutest of rail sections and then soldered to the brass screws already in place.
Boards joined via male and female connectors together with a set of catches which is the manner in which most baseboards are connected these days:
The first job was to fabricate some more L shaped pins from an old bicycle spoke to ensure the metal clasps don’t come away from their fittings:
Then the rails at the end of the scenic section were extended as mentioned and soldered to the brass screws:
Rather than start the cassettes immediately after the scenic section, I considered it more prudent to commence the fiddleyard with more rail, and then mate with the cassettes inboard, so to speak. Here is the job up to this point completed:
Yes. You’re right. There’s the down line to be fitted. However, this is one reason why I’ve been reluctant to look at the fiddleyard until now. Unfortunately, there isn’t enough space to accommodate two cassettes side by side. The Peco spacings between lines may not be a prototypical six foot way, but they’re still too close for the aluminium angles I’m using
I’ve decided to address this by introducing yet more reverse curves to increase the gap which will also allow for fingers to slip between. Unfortunately- gotta stop using this darned negative word - it means the board as it stands will be too short by about six inches or so; fortunately- that’s better - there’s space of this magnitude left at the end of the bench; unfortun… it means I’ll have to fashion an extension! Ah well, c’est la vie!Talking of cassettes, I’m going to be ‘adopting’ a method I found online. It’s several months since I last familiarised myself with the method - not sure I can find it now - but I think I can remember how it was done - I hope. Anyway,here is a picture of the components from which I’ll be assembling them, plus some ply to build it up to meet the line entering the fiddleyard:
I won’t insult your intelligence, fellow Westerners, with how they’ll fit together as I’m sure you’re all far more familiar with proceedings than me; in fact, I’ll probably lose my way at some point so please stay tuned
Cheers for now.
Jonte
Pencarrow
Western Thunderer
Morning Jonte, still progressing despite all the "unfortunately" additions! The alignment of the track on the main boards looks very smooth - you must be pleased with that.
Anyway, the point of the post. It's very difficult to tell from the photo but the aluminium angle looks thinner than usual. Have you checked to see if it's thicker than the depth of the wheel flanges? If not the wheels won't sit on the angle very well.
If it it just an illusion of the photo, then great, no problem. If it isn't then you've 3 options IMO...
1. Get some thicker aluminium angle (expensive)
2. Rebate the wood/ply/mdf base of the cassette enough for the flange to sit in (messy)
3. Pack under the aluminium angle with something like 1mm (40thou) plasticard (that would be my choice) but check what this does in comparison with the overall height compared to the rail.
With regard to not being able to get 2 cassettes next to each other, is it a problem? Nice to have, yes, but are you actually intending having a train leaving and arriving in the fiddle at the same time? Something to think about.
Anyway, the point of the post. It's very difficult to tell from the photo but the aluminium angle looks thinner than usual. Have you checked to see if it's thicker than the depth of the wheel flanges? If not the wheels won't sit on the angle very well.
If it it just an illusion of the photo, then great, no problem. If it isn't then you've 3 options IMO...
1. Get some thicker aluminium angle (expensive)
2. Rebate the wood/ply/mdf base of the cassette enough for the flange to sit in (messy)
3. Pack under the aluminium angle with something like 1mm (40thou) plasticard (that would be my choice) but check what this does in comparison with the overall height compared to the rail.
With regard to not being able to get 2 cassettes next to each other, is it a problem? Nice to have, yes, but are you actually intending having a train leaving and arriving in the fiddle at the same time? Something to think about.
jonte
Western Thunderer
Hiya, Chris, and thank you for your kind compliment re my ‘joins’ 
Without going into another rambling tale of woe, the link up was harder than it should have been as, believe it or not, the fiddleyard slopes ever so slightly from rear to front
I’ll say no more apart from it should be fun when eventually marrying up the cassettes with the entry road. Watch this space!
My sincerest thanks too, Chris, for your genuine concern over possible issues as outlined with the aluminium angle and for taking the trouble to post up some viable solutions in worst case scenario It really is reassuring to know that you are all looking out for me
Unusually for me, this did occur to me at the time and I recall scrutinising the net for dimensions of 4mm scale wheels and flanges across the RTR range, as this is no doubt from where I’ll be sourcing in the main. The (surprising) cost of angle as you correctly point out in your post, Chris, was quite sobering as the thought of blowing a hundred quid or so in outlay made me sit up and take note (according to the supplier, the angle comes from Turkey thus the dimensions of the angle can change without notice; thinking ahead, I thought I’d better buy as much as I could afford to ensure consistency).
Still, your post had me doubting myself once more, so for reassurance, I made a mock up just for peace of mind:
Here are the results with a couple of examples. First, an old clerestory coach which I’m considering an ‘extreme’ example I.e. the nearest I’ve got to pizza cutter wheels and which I’ll try and shy away from using:
Apologies re the lack of clarity, but the lamp got in the way of the camera; hopefully you can still make out the flange on angle.
And now a more recent Bachmann example which sports the more refined RP25(?) wheel which I shall standardise on:
I was much relieved I can tell you, Chris - despite my research - when the mock up confirmed that all was well ! One less headache, so thanks again, Chris.
Indeed, your mention of plasticard in your set of solutions was something I hadn’t considered if it comes to fine tolerances in height between cassette and entry road in the fiddleyard, so thanks for the heads-up
Many thanks once again.
Jonte
Edit: At present, Chris, doubtful I shall be having a train entering and leaving simultaneously, however, when I bother to read the accompanying handbook with my DCC system, I’d like to learn how operate trains in this fashion, bearing in mind that this is one of the benefits of DCC, and an option afforded the Minories modeller
Cheers. Jonte.
Without going into another rambling tale of woe, the link up was harder than it should have been as, believe it or not, the fiddleyard slopes ever so slightly from rear to front
I’ll say no more apart from it should be fun when eventually marrying up the cassettes with the entry road. Watch this space!My sincerest thanks too, Chris, for your genuine concern over possible issues as outlined with the aluminium angle and for taking the trouble to post up some viable solutions in worst case scenario
It really is reassuring to know that you are all looking out for me Unusually for me, this did occur to me at the time and I recall scrutinising the net for dimensions of 4mm scale wheels and flanges across the RTR range, as this is no doubt from where I’ll be sourcing in the main. The (surprising) cost of angle as you correctly point out in your post, Chris, was quite sobering as the thought of blowing a hundred quid or so in outlay made me sit up and take note (according to the supplier, the angle comes from Turkey thus the dimensions of the angle can change without notice; thinking ahead, I thought I’d better buy as much as I could afford to ensure consistency).
Still, your post had me doubting myself once more, so for reassurance, I made a mock up just for peace of mind:
Here are the results with a couple of examples. First, an old clerestory coach which I’m considering an ‘extreme’ example I.e. the nearest I’ve got to pizza cutter wheels and which I’ll try and shy away from using:
Apologies re the lack of clarity, but the lamp got in the way of the camera; hopefully you can still make out the flange on angle.
And now a more recent Bachmann example which sports the more refined RP25(?) wheel which I shall standardise on:
I was much relieved I can tell you, Chris - despite my research - when the mock up confirmed that all was well ! One less headache, so thanks again, Chris.
Indeed, your mention of plasticard in your set of solutions was something I hadn’t considered if it comes to fine tolerances in height between cassette and entry road in the fiddleyard, so thanks for the heads-up
Many thanks once again.
Jonte
Edit: At present, Chris, doubtful I shall be having a train entering and leaving simultaneously, however, when I bother to read the accompanying handbook with my DCC system, I’d like to learn how operate trains in this fashion, bearing in mind that this is one of the benefits of DCC, and an option afforded the Minories modeller
Cheers. Jonte.
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Roger Pound
Western Thunderer
Jon,
I cannot but identify with your problem of the length of a storage line. I have exactly the same problem with Whatborough and have the redesign to effect this afternoon. My maximum length of passenger train is set at two bogie coaches and a four-coupled tender loco and the original idea which I built only accommodated the coaches and tender. Not a clever result
! I really must remember to use that wotsit in future ,,,,,,,,,,,,,you know ........what do they call it? Oh yes! A ruler.
It happens to us all, my friend - and the older you get doesn't mean it get's any better.
Roger.
I cannot but identify with your problem of the length of a storage line. I have exactly the same problem with Whatborough and have the redesign to effect this afternoon. My maximum length of passenger train is set at two bogie coaches and a four-coupled tender loco and the original idea which I built only accommodated the coaches and tender. Not a clever result
! I really must remember to use that wotsit in future ,,,,,,,,,,,,,you know ........what do they call it? Oh yes! A ruler.It happens to us all, my friend - and the older you get doesn't mean it get's any better
.Roger
.
jonte
Western Thunderer
Jon,
I cannot but identify with your problem of the length of a storage line. I have exactly the same problem with Whatborough and have the redesign to effect this afternoon. My maximum length of passenger train is set at two bogie coaches and a four-coupled tender loco and the original idea which I built only accommodated the coaches and tender. Not a clever result
It happens to us all, my friend - and the older you get doesn't mean it get's any better
Roger
Bless you, Roger
Age apart, I’m consistently bad at planning
I still prefer guesstimation to measuring sticks which is probably how I end up making things far more difficult than they should be I put it down to the ‘fun’ of modelling Still not sure what I can get away with in terms of stock in the platform roads, but I’m banking on say three (suburban types) with an 0-6-0 and maybe only two (mainline) with perhaps a 2-6-0 tender engine, my excuse being that they will be marshalled to join a London train at Chester, a bit like the two to three coaches of this type that used to be attached to the London train at Lime Street having been transported from Southport (a practice that I think finished in 1966 or thereabouts).
Guess there’s still a prototype for everything hey, Roger
Best.
Jon
jonte
Western Thunderer
jonte
Western Thunderer
Good evening fellow Westerners.
I spent the afternoon prepping for the process of turning aluminium angle into cassettes. I had intended to build a small extension to the fiddleyard as discussed, but having received a phone call earlier this morning from my brother-in-law inviting me down tomorrow morning to start cutting, that idea was put on hold. Perhaps I should explain.
Due to the number of lengths which will eventually be required for all the stock, I decided that machination would be the best solution in terms of accuracy of cut and thus reduction of waste, not to mention that of sore fingers and aching arms from doing it by hand. So I discovered that Tool and Fix supplied a replacement blade for an electric table/mitre saw that cuts through ally angle like a knife through butter. Now I don’t own such a handy implement but said b-in-law does, and following a recent approach, he promised to ring me back with the required dimensions to ensure that the one I eventually bought would actually fit. Back of the net.
Then I received that phone call.
Apparently he nearly sheared the screw head and Allen key trying to loosen it. It’s not been off in four years of ownership. A straight talker, he said he’d soaked it in speshul oil, but I could tell from the tone things didn’t sound too hopeful at removing it despite his intention of leaving it to soak all day and overnight.
Then came plan B
He also owns a grinder/cutting thingy that cuts through metal clean n fast, so he ended our conversation asking me to bring along all the timber I could muster in an attempt to construct some sort of jig. Oh yes, he also suggested I bring along as much of my treasured ally angle on which to ‘test’ the cuts. So there we go. Perhaps a realistic option if the table saw refuses to play ball, but quite frankly, I’m not all that confident. Despite my latent doubts, I had absolutely no idea how of how many lengths to cut initially, nor their lengths, and before all that, I needed to start thinking about the fundamentals such as what shall I use to build up the fixed length of ally to the required height, the part that will marry the rail with the cassettes? Knowing that my b-in-law isn’t one to hang around - and I’m a ditherer - I reckoned that I’d better put that fiddleyard extension to bed for now and get cracking to ensure a harmonious visit tomorrow a.m., or there’ll be fireworks!
A quick check against the measuring stick showed Streamline track is a tad over 4mm from base to rail head; I had a couple of offcuts of four milli left over from that awful fascia stuck to the front - look at it and it splinters! - so sticking a piece on top of the twelve milli base on which the track at the entry to the fiddleyard is seated should ensure the ally angle is there or thereabouts in relation to the rail head, any slight excess could be filed down, I reckoned. But in the back of my mind lurked the monster that is the sloping entry rail towards the back that I mentioned in my last post. To cut a very long story short, I’ve shoved a couple of pieces of cardboard of different thicknesses under the angle next to the ‘higher’ rail. When I screw it’s down it should ensure a nice smooth transition from rail to ally and vice versa The front one’s okay.
So this afternoon, I spent sometime cutting up offcuts of ply on which to base the fixed sections, and from which I could take my first measurements, so that at least we will have a starting point. I also decided that creating an ‘S’ bend in the entry rail to the front of the fiddleyard as suggested by moi last time to create space between the cassettes side by side, was going to seriously reduce the length of trains entering via that line, so eventually opted for just a curve away which you can see in one of the following photos. Okay, it will lie at an angle to the table and I will have to create a further extension to the front side to accommodate, but at least they’ll be no loss of length.
So this is where I’m up to:
Straight entry to up line in yard; curved exit from yard on down line as per text:
Up line (rear) is built up to required level with twelve and four milli ply respectively, but still requires card insert forward under rear aluminium angle to bring it to level of sloping track; you can also make out where cassettes will meet with fixed sections. Down line just pinned for marking at present; next time will see removal and then soldering ends to brass screws. The twelve milli base is glued in situ, and still requires four milli top to bring to required level. No slopes thankfully to deal with in this side. Better measure up fixed sections in morning prior to cutting session to avoid blank expression on my face when he asks what the lengths are
Finally, the fixed ally angle ‘not fixed’ and still requiring cutting, on up line - just for illustration purposes:
So there we are. Praying that tomorrow goes well.
Will let you know.
Jonte
Edit to add that the foreground line (up line) will need a small angled section adding to ensure that rectangular cassettes (normal type) can be used; this shouldn’t take long and is parallel with existing angle. Jonte.
Further edit to say ignore previous edit; talking wham; been a long day folks. Good nite. J.
I spent the afternoon prepping for the process of turning aluminium angle into cassettes. I had intended to build a small extension to the fiddleyard as discussed, but having received a phone call earlier this morning from my brother-in-law inviting me down tomorrow morning to start cutting, that idea was put on hold. Perhaps I should explain.
Due to the number of lengths which will eventually be required for all the stock, I decided that machination would be the best solution in terms of accuracy of cut and thus reduction of waste, not to mention that of sore fingers and aching arms from doing it by hand. So I discovered that Tool and Fix supplied a replacement blade for an electric table/mitre saw that cuts through ally angle like a knife through butter. Now I don’t own such a handy implement but said b-in-law does, and following a recent approach, he promised to ring me back with the required dimensions to ensure that the one I eventually bought would actually fit. Back of the net.
Then I received that phone call.
Apparently he nearly sheared the screw head and Allen key trying to loosen it. It’s not been off in four years of ownership.
A straight talker, he said he’d soaked it in speshul oil, but I could tell from the tone things didn’t sound too hopeful at removing it despite his intention of leaving it to soak all day and overnight.Then came plan B
He also owns a grinder/cutting thingy that cuts through metal clean n fast, so he ended our conversation asking me to bring along all the timber I could muster in an attempt to construct some sort of jig. Oh yes, he also suggested I bring along as much of my treasured ally angle on which to ‘test’ the cuts
. So there we go. Perhaps a realistic option if the table saw refuses to play ball, but quite frankly, I’m not all that confident. Despite my latent doubts, I had absolutely no idea how of how many lengths to cut initially, nor their lengths, and before all that, I needed to start thinking about the fundamentals such as what shall I use to build up the fixed length of ally to the required height, the part that will marry the rail with the cassettes? Knowing that my b-in-law isn’t one to hang around - and I’m a ditherer - I reckoned that I’d better put that fiddleyard extension to bed for now and get cracking to ensure a harmonious visit tomorrow a.m., or there’ll be fireworks!A quick check against the measuring stick showed Streamline track is a tad over 4mm from base to rail head; I had a couple of offcuts of four milli left over from that awful fascia stuck to the front - look at it and it splinters! - so sticking a piece on top of the twelve milli base on which the track at the entry to the fiddleyard is seated should ensure the ally angle is there or thereabouts in relation to the rail head, any slight excess could be filed down, I reckoned. But in the back of my mind lurked the monster that is the sloping entry rail towards the back that I mentioned in my last post. To cut a very long story short, I’ve shoved a couple of pieces of cardboard of different thicknesses under the angle next to the ‘higher’ rail. When I screw it’s down it should ensure a nice smooth transition from rail to ally and vice versa
The front one’s okay.So this afternoon, I spent sometime cutting up offcuts of ply on which to base the fixed sections, and from which I could take my first measurements, so that at least we will have a starting point. I also decided that creating an ‘S’ bend in the entry rail to the front of the fiddleyard as suggested by moi last time to create space between the cassettes side by side, was going to seriously reduce the length of trains entering via that line, so eventually opted for just a curve away which you can see in one of the following photos. Okay, it will lie at an angle to the table and I will have to create a further extension to the front side to accommodate, but at least they’ll be no loss of length.
So this is where I’m up to:
Straight entry to up line in yard; curved exit from yard on down line as per text:
Up line (rear) is built up to required level with twelve and four milli ply respectively, but still requires card insert forward under rear aluminium angle to bring it to level of sloping track; you can also make out where cassettes will meet with fixed sections. Down line just pinned for marking at present; next time will see removal and then soldering ends to brass screws. The twelve milli base is glued in situ, and still requires four milli top to bring to required level. No slopes thankfully to deal with in this side. Better measure up fixed sections in morning prior to cutting session to avoid blank expression on my face when he asks what the lengths are
Finally, the fixed ally angle ‘not fixed’ and still requiring cutting, on up line - just for illustration purposes:
So there we are. Praying that tomorrow goes well.
Will let you know.
Jonte
Edit to add that the foreground line (up line) will need a small angled section adding to ensure that rectangular cassettes (normal type) can be used; this shouldn’t take long and is parallel with existing angle. Jonte.
Further edit to say ignore previous edit; talking wham; been a long day folks. Good nite. J.
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jonte
Western Thunderer
So often, fellow Westerners, will you see the subject of ‘Model Railway Casettes’ preceded by the word ‘simple’, yet again however, I’ve found nothing simple about it
To pick up from my last bewildered post, I arrived to find - not surprisingly as you may recall - that my brother in law’s circular blade was stuck faster to the saw than an Irish Jig to Mr. John’s bonce. So it was on to plan B replete with grinder, cramps and all the wood I could muster. The implement was hastily clamped against a piece of ply mounted on a slice of two by one, itself screwed to the (scaffolding board constructed) bench. With the body of the grinder sporting more curves than the Minories plan itself, it was no easy task to find the vertical or even to try and secure it:
A sort of sliding table, with the intended action of a precision lathe but actually more akin to the aim of an eager blindfolded participant in a game of ‘pin the tail’, was fashioned from ply and a spare piece of ally angle which railed along the edge of the end scaffolding plank with the metal shimmy protector removed for greater precision:
Held fast by pinkies against yet another offcut of two by one screwed to the ‘table’, the beast was powered up as I steadily fed the sacrificial piece of angle to the wobbly wheel of the grinder. Rather than cutting it, the wretched wheel merely melted it:
Sorry about the lack of clarity in that last shot, but I guess you can get my drift
Defeated but not yet beaten, I returned home with a borrowed mitre board and hack saw, resigning myself to aching arm and fingers after all. But at least it worked
With sections of angle now cut to size and tidied up with file while clamped in a vice, I made a start on the fixed sections of the cassette betwixt entry rails and removable cassettes. I’m using the plural here because that was the intention for today; regretably, progress was glacially slow so only one was completed together with a trial removable cassette in its initial throws. To be fair, I’ve not done this before and apart from having to deal with the sloping up line side, the aluminium greenhouse clips were a bit of a bum steer too in as much as the force exerted by the cassette being adjoinedpushed them out of alignment. Realising something more robust would be the order if the day, I just started messing about with the angle itself. The solution I discovered was to affix another piece of angle behind/in front of the join using the same screw attaching the joiner to the cassette rail. To ease matters when joining cassettes, I filed a wedge shape onto the leading lip of the joiner.
Some pix:
I started neatly: dainty screws in appropriately sized counter sunk holes. However, they just weren’t up to the job *especially in the rail furthest from camera which falls in a slight gradient from rail end to cassette end. Not the neatest job by any means, but the bigger screws allow the ever so slightest adjustment with adjoining rail for smoother transition. The holes in the centre are where the screws were fastened to secure the Tracksetta spacer. To the rear can be seen the discarded greenhouse glazing clip which had been my intention to help fasten adjoining cassettes and supply power. Also seen is the bracing section with the bottom of the ‘L’ shape cut and filed back towards where it joins with the top of the ‘L’ shape.
Next, the trial removable cassette I’m in the process of building, which is waiting for the glue to dry between the join of the base -twelve milli - and top -four milli- ply, and is placed for purposes of illustration only:
I’ll fix the angle on tomorrow when dry, but you might just see one rail intersected with joiner on nearest side to camera.
And from another angle:
The place is in a right mess again. Swarf, saw dust and array of tools everywhere
Never mind. Hopefully should be able to move onto the down line over the next couple of days. Am thinking of attaching power via some electrical tags (?) which can be attached to the fixed casette by the screws. Might see if Halfords have got some.
Cheers for now.
Jonte
To pick up from my last bewildered post, I arrived to find - not surprisingly as you may recall - that my brother in law’s circular blade was stuck faster to the saw than an Irish Jig to Mr. John’s bonce. So it was on to plan B replete with grinder, cramps and all the wood I could muster. The implement was hastily clamped against a piece of ply mounted on a slice of two by one, itself screwed to the (scaffolding board constructed) bench. With the body of the grinder sporting more curves than the Minories plan itself, it was no easy task to find the vertical or even to try and secure it:
A sort of sliding table, with the intended action of a precision lathe but actually more akin to the aim of an eager blindfolded participant in a game of ‘pin the tail’, was fashioned from ply and a spare piece of ally angle which railed along the edge of the end scaffolding plank with the metal shimmy protector removed for greater precision:
Held fast by pinkies against yet another offcut of two by one screwed to the ‘table’, the beast was powered up as I steadily fed the sacrificial piece of angle to the wobbly wheel of the grinder. Rather than cutting it, the wretched wheel merely melted it:
Sorry about the lack of clarity in that last shot, but I guess you can get my drift
Defeated but not yet beaten, I returned home with a borrowed mitre board and hack saw, resigning myself to aching arm and fingers after all. But at least it worked
With sections of angle now cut to size and tidied up with file while clamped in a vice, I made a start on the fixed sections of the cassette betwixt entry rails and removable cassettes. I’m using the plural here because that was the intention for today; regretably, progress was glacially slow so only one was completed together with a trial removable cassette in its initial throws. To be fair, I’ve not done this before and apart from having to deal with the sloping up line side, the aluminium greenhouse clips were a bit of a bum steer too in as much as the force exerted by the cassette being adjoinedpushed them out of alignment. Realising something more robust would be the order if the day, I just started messing about with the angle itself. The solution I discovered was to affix another piece of angle behind/in front of the join using the same screw attaching the joiner to the cassette rail. To ease matters when joining cassettes, I filed a wedge shape onto the leading lip of the joiner.
Some pix:
I started neatly: dainty screws in appropriately sized counter sunk holes. However, they just weren’t up to the job *especially in the rail furthest from camera which falls in a slight gradient from rail end to cassette end. Not the neatest job by any means, but the bigger screws allow the ever so slightest adjustment with adjoining rail for smoother transition. The holes in the centre are where the screws were fastened to secure the Tracksetta spacer. To the rear can be seen the discarded greenhouse glazing clip which had been my intention to help fasten adjoining cassettes and supply power. Also seen is the bracing section with the bottom of the ‘L’ shape cut and filed back towards where it joins with the top of the ‘L’ shape.
Next, the trial removable cassette I’m in the process of building, which is waiting for the glue to dry between the join of the base -twelve milli - and top -four milli- ply, and is placed for purposes of illustration only:
I’ll fix the angle on tomorrow when dry, but you might just see one rail intersected with joiner on nearest side to camera.
And from another angle:
The place is in a right mess again. Swarf, saw dust and array of tools everywhere
Never mind. Hopefully should be able to move onto the down line over the next couple of days. Am thinking of attaching power via some electrical tags (?) which can be attached to the fixed casette by the screws. Might see if Halfords have got some.
Cheers for now.
Jonte
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
Solder tags are what you need - I purchase mine from electronic parts suppliers on t'interweb.
jonte
Western Thunderer
Solder tags are what you need - I purchase mine from electronic parts suppliers on t'interweb.
Good morning, Dave, and thank you for identifying them. Please forgive my ignorance.
After a spot of web interrogation (Google
) I eventually managed to trace them, and have a box of 100 waiting for my collection at Screwtool If in the event I’ve been barking up the wrong tree, I shall duly order a set ‘tags’ as you sagely advise Best.
Jonte