New O gauge wheel sets

[SimonT]

Andrew,
the problem is not particularly with the 3D printing when it is done on a high spec machine. Moulding materials seem to pick up and amplify imprefections, I have seen a thumb print on a casting produced using these methods. Thought is going in the design world to printing the moulds rather than the masters. This though, requires some mental dexterity!
Simon

 

[Stoke5D]

Real loco wheel castings are not perfect, either. I was quite surprised at just how rough a set of wheels can look, even under a coat or three of paint.

I know that from personal experience but they don't look rough like this... Needs a work around.


Andrew

 

[Elliot 84A]

Andrew, lets wait and see what they come out like from proper tooling as I do only use this method to check the design although it has to be said all the wheels I've done so far using this method have come out fine, I think the photo's are being a little cruel to their actual quality.

 

[Elliot 84A]

Andrew,
the problem is not particularly with the 3D printing when it is done on a high spec machine. Moulding materials seem to pick up and amplify imprefections, I have seen a thumb print on a casting produced using these methods. Thought is going in the design world to printing the moulds rather than the masters. This though, requires some mental dexterity!
Simon

Simon,

I'm intending on trying proper hard tooling for these wheels and not the way Alan used to do it with a resin moulding technique. Yes the tooling will be more expensive but the waxes will be a lot cheaper this way and hopefully nice and straight.

Elliot

 

[Steph Dale]

Simon,

I'm intending on trying proper hard tooling for these wheels and not the way Alan used to do it with a resin moulding technique. Yes the tooling will be more expensive but the waxes will be a lot cheaper this way and hopefully nice and straight.

Elliot

That's going to be a PITA with the Bulleid wheels though and the number of inserts required.

If/when I get my hands on a set of these wheels I'll be tempted to give the wheels a squirt of MrSurfacer to smooth the finish if it's required.

Bronze is definitely the way to go though.

Steph

 

[Elliot 84A]

That's going to be a PITA with the Bulleid wheels though and the number of inserts required.

If/when I get my hands on a set of these wheels I'll be tempted to give the wheels a squirt of MrSurfacer to smooth the finish if it's required.

Bronze is definitely the way to go though.

Steph

Steph,

Unfortunately the only way to make the Firth Brown wheels is by using this method every time. There's no way you could economically make hard tooling for these wheels with all the undercuts.

All standard spoked wheels will not be an issue but anything along the lines of Bulleids design will require 3D printing.

Elliot

 

[Osgood]

Same for the LNWR H section spokes too I guess?

Might they be more economical to build up with one side integral with the centre and the other side a simple inserted etch?

 

[Elliot 84A]

Same for the LNWR H section spokes too I guess?

Might they be more economical to build up with one side integral with the centre and the other side a simple inserted etch?

They've been done with etches before and IMHO just dont look right. At the end of the day if its the only proper way to make them then thats how I'll do them. The beauty about the 3D printed process is I can order them as and when I get an order for a set. Yes they will be more (only slightly hopefully) more expensive then the standard spoked ones but at the end of the day you don't shod a Ferrari in budget tyres now do you

E.

 

[JimG]

I'll be tempted to give the wheels a squirt of MrSurfacer to smooth the finish if it's required.

Que?

Jim.

 

[Steph Dale]

Like this:
Mr Surfacer

Steph

 

[mickoo]

I saw the Bulleid wheels at Reading, more than happy with the surface finish, the front face will buff nicely with a Dremel and wire brush attachment, the rear can stay rough to give it that dirty look and finish.



MD

 

[Mike W]

LNWR wheels with H section spokes have been done different ways. In 4mm some have an etched front, but in Gauge 3 I use a cast iron wheel (from the N2/5GA) and an etched back. Before the War, Jim Richards made 7mm ones with cast (whitemetal) T section front and similar T section back - put them together and you get an H. I defy anyone to spot the join deep in the recess twixt front and back.

Mike

 

[JimG]

Like this:
Mr Surfacer

Steph

Thanks for that. The supplier in your link won't supply from the States but a quick Google shows other suppliers in the UK.

Jim.

 

[Stoke5D]

Andrew, lets wait and see what they come out like from proper tooling as I do only use this method to check the design although it has to be said all the wheels I've done so far using this method have come out fine, I think the photo's are being a little cruel to their actual quality.

I'm still positive. No doubt there's a good work-around, either in the production process itself or post completion finishing. No offence intended but I believe it's important to give this feedback because if people are thinking about it then we are well on our way to solving it.


Andrew

 

[Elliot 84A]

I'm still positive. No doubt there's a good work-around, either in the production process itself or post completion finishing. No offence intended but I believe it's important to give this feedback because if people are thinking about it then we are well on our way to solving it.


Andrew

Andrew, feedback is what I'm after. ultimately whatever I produce won't tick everyones boxes but if I can tick most of them then at least the majority will be happy and the few will be almost happy

I'm getting tooling done for my first proper wheel so I look forward to the results, as for material and finished design........well we'll just have to wait and see, if my casting people can do it then they be cast iron then thats what they'll be so fingers crossed..........

 

[Stoke5D]

Andrew, feedback is what I'm after. ultimately whatever I produce won't tick everyones boxes but if I can tick most of them then at least the majority will be happy and the few will be almost happy

You'll never please everybody of course, you just have to please more people than the competition - looks like you're well on the way to that to me...


Andrew

 

[Susie]

Hi Guys,

I was going to start a thread about insulating wheels but it seems topical to put my question here.

With soild cast wheels such as these or Alan Harris', how are they insulated for engines with outside cylinders and valve gear? Is the crankpin insulated from the wheel as well as the axle, and if so how? I read that Tony Reynalds uses Tufnol pressed into the boss and the crank pressed into that, but some pictures or dimensions would be handy (in 7mm scale).

Susie

 

[richard carr]

Alan Harris type wheels generally have an insulated crank pin if the loco has outside cylinders.

Some people though have put steel tyres on and insulated the rim instead.

Richard

 

[Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen]

Alan Harris turned a couple of sets of wheels for me and rim insulated them. This was achieved by machining a groove through the face of the tyre and filling it with epoxy resin. The wheel is then reversed and similar done on the back making sure that the maching of the groove goes completely through the cast iron into the resin. I've since done some wheels myself this way quite successfully.
Tim

 

[Eastsidepilot]

I have processed quite a few sets of cast wheels both insulated and non-insulated depending on the application.
With split axle current collection the crank pins need to be insulated on outside cylinder loco's.
If using plunger pick-ups ( not my preference ) I usually insulate at the boss, and the crank pins on outside cylinder loco's.

On axles that have a gearbox drive I insulate at the boss and the current will still pick-up but pass through the coupling rod/crankpin, this only works with inside cylinder loco's.

My preference for tender loco's now is to only have current collection on the tender, choosing to insulate all the loco wheels at the boss.

I have also been able to re-tire damaged cast wheels, an example was some second hand AGH wheels given to me for improving the previous owner had mullerd them by trying to turn the flange with conventional tooling instead of a profile tool.
So I turned the tire off and shrunk a new steel tire on, you could not see the difference.

Col.