New Super-Layout - Masborough in Emmadale

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Replacement gears are out of stock at Gaugemaster but I found a spare pack from an earlier fix to another loco. So it was time to take 37031 apart and fit the new gears.

20241123_125415.jpg

yes it looks a mess but it isn't too difficult, the new gear is the third on the left, the other gear (next to the right) hasn't split so I left that one in.
It will probably split next week now.

20241123_125423.jpg

Now for the other end, both the gears had split here so this one now only has 1 powered axle for now.


20241123_125431.jpg

The replacement etched steps are a big improvement over the plastic ones, I need to get some more.

It all went back together easily and runs fine now. The only real problem is that this has a loksound XLv3.5 that has no stay alive but it really needs one, so a new decoder is required.
 

Buntobox

Active Member
Hi Richard
I've just been watching your thread. I just love your trackwork. You're one of the few I've seen glueing your track onto Templot printouts. What do you use to fix them to the baseboard. It's a method I'd really like to use but I've always been concerned they would wrinkle if glued down or worse, come adrift from the board once the track was down!

Alan
Edinburgh
 

3 LINK

Western Thunderer
I stick the sleepers down onto the template using double sided tape, and then once built I just use wood glue to stick the paper template to the track bed. Hardly ever a wrinkle, and if there is, it’s always been between the sleepers and you just trim it off with a craft knife.

IMG_0345.jpeg

Martyn.
 

martin_wynne

Western Thunderer
Hi Richard
I've just been watching your thread. I just love your trackwork. You're one of the few I've seen glueing your track onto Templot printouts. What do you use to fix them to the baseboard. It's a method I'd really like to use but I've always been concerned they would wrinkle if glued down or worse, come adrift from the board once the track was down!
Hi Alan,

After sticking them down, stab holes in the template with a spike tool of some sort into the cork underlay. When you add the ballast, the glue will seep through and lock the track in position. But it's hardly necessary in most cases.

cheers,

Martin.
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Father Christmas finally arrived just after 7pm yesterday and delivered a few of these.

20241226_091448.jpg

A heljan MK2 or 2a, the MK2 is the original vacuum braked version, the 2a was the early air brake only version.

It's a very nice model

20241226_091458.jpg


Mine will be 2as, so they need the folding end doors, I've fitted mine, the gangway connector pulls off and you can slip the doors in.

The buckeyes fold down so you can hook up a loco.

20241226_091504.jpg

Of course for S7 the key question is how hard is it to convert them, well the answer is extremely easily, it took me 5 minutes once I had worked out which replacement wheels to use. I've used slaters 3 foot 1 inch 3 hole disc. I really need to add some covers to go over the holes, but as you can see above, even if you don't you can't really see the holes. The original wheels just pull out and the slaters can just be dropped in to replace them, a 2 minute job per bogie.

The roof is held in place with magnets and just pulls off with a finger nail under the ends

20241226_091516.jpg


20241226_091523.jpg

20241226_091528.jpg

20241226_091532.jpg


It's pretty well detailed inside.

They also come with a bag of detailing parts so you can make it a 2 or a 2a. Unfortunately there are no instructions in the box, you need to go to the Heljan website to download them. If you are using Microsoft Edge the dropbox link doesn't work (it didn't for me) but it worked fine with Chrome.


20241226_091557.jpg
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
Replacement gears are out of stock at Gaugemaster but I found a spare pack from an earlier fix to another loco. So it was time to take 37031 apart and fit the new gears.

View attachment 228127

yes it looks a mess but it isn't too difficult, the new gear is the third on the left, the other gear (next to the right) hasn't split so I left that one in.
It will probably split next week now.

View attachment 228128

Now for the other end, both the gears had split here so this one now only has 1 powered axle for now.


View attachment 228129

The replacement etched steps are a big improvement over the plastic ones, I need to get some more.

It all went back together easily and runs fine now. The only real problem is that this has a loksound XLv3.5 that has no stay alive but it really needs one, so a new decoder is required.
Hi Richard , those photos are so familiar after having to replace gears but i went down the brass route . My Heljan 37 plus my two 20s all only run with one motor and unless you want to run really long trains i cant see the need for two . Actually my Heljan 20 donated one of its motors to my second unit which is a DJH Tower kit so both have the same motor gearbox bogie setup for consist purposes. The kit in turn donated one of its bogies back to the Heljan . These are fitted with Heljan bogie sides from Gaugemaster so everything matches .
 
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