Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Blue and favourite in the same post? Enough to make anyone see Red and White.
P4 New Street
- Thread starter Jim S-W
- Start date
Blue and favourite in the same post? Enough to make anyone see Red and White.
Jim S-W
Western Thunderer
Hi All
Been adding a spot of detail to '18
First up - I didn't like the supplied buffers at all and so I replaced them with A1 models 18" oleos - OK these are not sprung but I am not doing and shunting so I am not bothered. The air horn covers are simply bits of plastic tube cut to shape (the stem of a cotton bud is ideal) and the little triangular steps are just .4mm wire bent to shape. Finally a little bit of microstrip for the ETH recepticle and thats about it. I notice theres no builders plates under the second mans window so I will see what brian at Shawplan has.
Cheers
Jim
Been adding a spot of detail to '18
First up - I didn't like the supplied buffers at all and so I replaced them with A1 models 18" oleos - OK these are not sprung but I am not doing and shunting so I am not bothered. The air horn covers are simply bits of plastic tube cut to shape (the stem of a cotton bud is ideal) and the little triangular steps are just .4mm wire bent to shape. Finally a little bit of microstrip for the ETH recepticle and thats about it. I notice theres no builders plates under the second mans window so I will see what brian at Shawplan has.
Cheers
Jim
Simon
Flying Squad
Hi All
Been adding a spot of detail to '18
First up - I didn't like the supplied buffers at all and so I replaced them with A1 models 18" oleos - OK these are not sprung but I am not doing and shunting so I am not bothered. The air horn covers are simply bits of plastic tube cut to shape (the stem of a cotton bud is ideal) and the little triangular steps are just .4mm wire bent to shape. Finally a little bit of microstrip for the ETH recepticle and thats about it. I notice theres no builders plates under the second mans window so I will see what brian at Shawplan has.
Cheers
Jim
That is a very handsome looking representation of a classic locomotive. I still can't believe "it's" all gone* - so modern and clean to my eyes, much better than what has followed.
Keep up the good work on your plank
Simon
* ie "proper" electric locos and a functional and visually pleasing livery.
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
Neat work on the Electrics - they do look so good.
Takes me back to the 80s. I've been scanning my negatives and have come across photos of 86s, 87s, 310s around the Stafford, Stoke, Crewe, Manchester areas along with Berkhamstead, including the original 87 101 'Stephenson'.
Will you be driving yourself mad with the catenery at some point which I suspect will have to be scratchbuilt?
Takes me back to the 80s. I've been scanning my negatives and have come across photos of 86s, 87s, 310s around the Stafford, Stoke, Crewe, Manchester areas along with Berkhamstead, including the original 87 101 'Stephenson'.
Will you be driving yourself mad with the catenery at some point which I suspect will have to be scratchbuilt?
Jordan
Mid-Western Thunderer
And at that time, the locomotive was still at the proper end of the train....
I never could get my head around that later, nasty 'push-pull' arrangement with a DVT, and the loco most likely at the back... just looked SO wrong....
Jim S-W
Western Thunderer
Hi All
there are a few reasons that the layout is set in 1987 - the introduction of DVT's was later than this and is a fairly big one!
I will have to scratchbuild the OLE (or design my own kits for it - see below for work in progress on one of them). I worked it out once that theres something like 7 scale miles of it. Its things like this that remind me not to think of the totals required for the layout and to just work my way along.
Cheers
Jim
there are a few reasons that the layout is set in 1987 - the introduction of DVT's was later than this and is a fairly big one!
I will have to scratchbuild the OLE (or design my own kits for it - see below for work in progress on one of them). I worked it out once that theres something like 7 scale miles of it. Its things like this that remind me not to think of the totals required for the layout and to just work my way along.
Cheers
Jim
S
Simon Dunkley
Guest
Talking of which, I am intrigued as to how you will carry the wires over baseboard joints, assuming the layout remains portable. Or is this an issue you will solve when you get to it?
Jim S-W
Western Thunderer
Hi All
This is how I have weathered my class 85's (other methods are available but I hope this is useful.)
I use 3 different techniques and the first is washes.
I use neat turps substitute to 'wet' the model and then with small amounts of paint add streaks and dirt around the details - those used to water colour painting will find this very familiar. For 85020 I found a pic with the front looking quite chipped and to replicate this I loaded my brush with a small amount of grey and used a screwdriver to flick the paint onto the front.
I also washed the roof and the corridor while I was at it.
The next stage (when thats dried for a few days) is airbrushing.
I Use humbrol 29 for the dust and a mix of gunmetal and black for the greased bits.
Final stage is drybrushing
Referring to pictures class 85s seem to collect dark patches on the brake push rods, the axleboxes, on the battery box hinges and below the dampers - use gunmetal for this and also to highlight the springs. Use metal coat aluminim for the edges of the footsteps and finally a touch of clear floor polish (or gloss varnish) for the shiny bits on the push rods. (you can better see the chips on the front in this picture)
Below a couple of pics on the layout
Cheers
Jim
This is how I have weathered my class 85's (other methods are available but I hope this is useful.)
I use 3 different techniques and the first is washes.
I use neat turps substitute to 'wet' the model and then with small amounts of paint add streaks and dirt around the details - those used to water colour painting will find this very familiar. For 85020 I found a pic with the front looking quite chipped and to replicate this I loaded my brush with a small amount of grey and used a screwdriver to flick the paint onto the front.
I also washed the roof and the corridor while I was at it.
The next stage (when thats dried for a few days) is airbrushing.
I Use humbrol 29 for the dust and a mix of gunmetal and black for the greased bits.
Final stage is drybrushing
Referring to pictures class 85s seem to collect dark patches on the brake push rods, the axleboxes, on the battery box hinges and below the dampers - use gunmetal for this and also to highlight the springs. Use metal coat aluminim for the edges of the footsteps and finally a touch of clear floor polish (or gloss varnish) for the shiny bits on the push rods. (you can better see the chips on the front in this picture)
Below a couple of pics on the layout
Cheers
Jim
Yorkshire Dave
Western Thunderer
I like the OLE gantry.
Where do/would you source your pantographs namely the cross arm version fitted to 87s and later 86s, obviously the 85 came with a factory fitted version?
Where do/would you source your pantographs namely the cross arm version fitted to 87s and later 86s, obviously the 85 came with a factory fitted version?
Phill Dyson
Western Thunderer
I always enjoy keeping up to date with this thread Jim 
lancer1027
Western Thunderer
Hi Jim, the pic with the two leckys stabled looks REAL. 
Excellent stuff.
Rob
Excellent stuff.Rob
Pugsley
Western Thunderer
Yes, even though there is something significant missingHi Jim, the pic with the two leckys stabled looks REAL.
Pugsley
Western Thunderer
In which case I'm odd too. It's very utilitarian, but it has a definite charm about it.