4mm Polsarrett: BR(S) N Cornwall Clay, The Final Countdown

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Simply, Wow!

Jonte

Cheers chap. Been a learning curve and I'm thinking of doing things somewhat different on Pencarrow. I don't think that the bi-colour 2835 LEDs will be strong enough as the layout is twice as deep and the lighting will be twice as far from the layout.

Going to be 5050s for Pencarrow and probably separate runs of dimmable warm and cool white LEDs. The lit area will be 5.3m x 1m and I'm thinking of making it in 1m X 1m modules that will be easier to move and put up.

On all there will need to be something like 25m - 30m of LED strip lighting, which will be 200-300w. Definitely beefer controller and power supply required...
 

PMP

Western Thunderer
Cheers chap. Been a learning curve and I'm thinking of doing things somewhat different on Pencarrow. I don't think that the bi-colour 2835 LEDs will be strong enough as the layout is twice as deep and the lighting will be twice as far from the layout.

Going to be 5050s for Pencarrow and probably separate runs of dimmable warm and cool white LEDs. The lit area will be 5.3m x 1m and I'm thinking of making it in 1m X 1m modules that will be easier to move and put up.

On all there will need to be something like 25m - 30m of LED strip lighting, which will be 200-300w. Definitely beefer controller and power supply required...
On Shelfie 3 I’ve been using strip fluorescent tubes at 4000k, and they give a good overall balance. They’re lightweight and relatively cheap too. The ‘display’ dimensions are roughly 8’x 18”
981B03E1-930C-4439-839C-B0FD95732679.jpeg
Straight out of the phone, no colour editing taken place. On pic, front mounted lighting roughly 15” above lowest baseboard level.
 
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Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Well that was a faff.

The 3' of leftover LED strip has now been added to the underside of the top fascia. As the fascia top is removable and separate to the lighting lid, I needed to add in a plug and socket between the two parts.

A suitable 4 pin plug and socket was eventually found - funnily enough in the box of spare LED strip fittings and the male end was fitted to the fascia strip. That was the easy bit.

Then came wiring in an extension lead from the female socket to the end of the lighting lid run. Oh, no copper contacts on the end of the strip. So the strip end was lifted and wires soldered to the underside of the LED strip, then insulated with tape.

The extension lead was run along the top of the lighting lid and then passed through a hole to the position of the male plug. Did I mention that the extension lead wasn't long enough and needed splicing to extra wire...?

Anyway that was all done and the opportunity taken to go around the edges of the lighting lid with gaffer tape. Hopefully this will make it more resilient.

And now the photos...

IMG_20210925_151424.jpg
The new socket on the lighting lid.

IMG_20210925_151435_1.jpg
And the plug on the fascia top.

IMG_20210925_151411.jpg
Gaffer tape!

IMG_20210925_151826.jpg
More gaffer tape!

IMG_20210925_151741_1.jpg
All lit up from underneath.

IMG_20210925_151850_1.jpg
All lit up from the front.

IMG_20210925_151721.jpg
And the purpose of all the tatting about - no shadow on the very front siding. Sorted.
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
On Shelfie 3 I’ve been using strip fluorescent tubes at 4000k, and they give a good overall balance. They’re lightweight and relatively cheap too. The ‘display’ dimensions are roughly 8’x 18”
View attachment 149447
Straight out of the phone, no colour editing taken place. On pic, front mounted lighting roughly 15” above lowest baseboard level.

Hi, do you mean this sort of tube?:
rps20210925_153617.jpg

The above is in my train room: an LED tube in an old fluorescent fitting after the latter expired.
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Interesting exercise Chris, overall would you use this lighting system on another layout and is there anything that you would change / do differently ?

( Asking for a friend )

Good question G Bloke...

On the whole I'm happy with how it's all gone and the end result. The LED strips with the two colour whites are good and the diffusers soften the light spread well. I like how I can change the colour temperature and also dim the light.

The lightweight lighting lid seems to work well and I'd use the idea again on a similar small layout.

The only bits I'd do differently are those I got wrong. The cable was intended to start rear left and wind back and forth in a Z pattern. Somehow during construction I started rear right instead which meant the end tail was on the wrong place when I came to add the strip on the fascia top.

Speaking of which, I forgot that my original intention was to run lighting along the fascia top. Got a bit carried away fitting all the strips to the lid but hey, a bit of fiddling and faffing later, all ended ok.
 

NHY 581

Western Thunderer
Mange tout, Pencarrot.

I use led tubes on my modest efforts. Pretty certain those on Bleat Wharf are a mix of warm and blue light from Screwfix and Lidl.
In addition the inside of the 'roof' is lined with the same mounting card as used to create the backscene.

The colour of the card is described as being Porcelain, a slightly lavenderesque shade rather than plain blue which I find rather alarming.
The ambience offered by the more subtle porcelain is rather pleasing, slightly arty but not in any way pretentious.

Photos are taken with my phone in auto sheep mode. Any tweaks can be applied using 'snapseed' a free downloadable photo editor which is also sheep friendly and one which is hoof compatible.

SB
 
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