4mm Polsarrett: BR(S) N Cornwall Clay, The Final Countdown

[gwrrob]

I hope you don't mind me posting these chum but as they're SR , you might be interested. These are the brand new Rapido open wagons and very nice they are too. Any thoughts ?

 

[Pencarrow]

On the real thing, there's a casting on the end of the rod with a tuning-fork type link to a cotter pin through the crank:
View attachment 159169

Hi Nick, I've been looking at similar photos but I'm at a loss how to reproduce anything even remotely similar in 4mm. The 3d printed cranks are not that robust so won't take much handling or bodgery.

 

[Mark F]

Thin brass wire, bent in a L shape, soldered to the end of the rodding?

 

[Phil O]

The "square" rod is actually channel, round rod is forged square on one end and bolts into the channel and the other end is forged into a fork. You could try drilling the end of the square rod and soldering in a length of round, flatten the other end to look like the fork and drill a hole and fit some smaller diameter wire to represent the pin.

Not tried it, as in my modelling period the GW used round rodding, but flattening the end with a bit of a joggle is my plan, should I get to build a layout that requires point rodding.

 

[Pencarrow]

Thin brass wire, bent in a L shape, soldered to the end of the rodding?

That's my current thinking. Not looking forward to soldering very thin wire to thin wire though.

 

[Pencarrow]

The "square" rod is actually channel, round rod is forged square on one end and bolts into the channel and the other end is forged into a fork. You could try drilling the end of the square rod and soldering in a length of round, flatten the other end to look like the fork and drill a hole and fit some smaller diameter wire to represent the pin.

Not tried it, as in my modelling period the GW used round rodding, but flattening the end with a bit of a joggle is my plan, should I get to build a layout that requires point rodding.

Thanks for the suggestion Phil. I'd potentially give that a go in 7mm but I don't think my eyes or tools would be up to doing it in 4mm. There's something like 35 cranks etc on the layout and that would mean making 70+ of the connections. Not sure my sanity would be up to it.

Considering I've used code 75 Peco track, I don't think it's worth modelling the connections 100% when the point blades and flangeways etc leave something to be desired. Do I regret using the Code 75 given how the layout context has changed since the original concept? Erm...

But what to do that's simple, quick and repeatable 70+ times?

 

[simond]

3D printed forks? Perhaps speak to Alan at Modelu?

I‘d happily draw them for you in 3D but not for a few days.

otherwise, square plastruct rod, drill to fit the wire rods & slot to fit the cranks. Don’t bother about cross-drilling for the pins (or do them later)

 

[Phil O]

Plan X, if you can see to cut a slot in the end of the square rod and then file the last 5 mil or so round, no soldering required.

 

[Pencarrow]

I hope you don't mind me posting these chum but as they're SR , you might be interested. These are the brand new Rapido open wagons and very nice they are too. Any thoughts ?

View attachment 159174View attachment 159175View attachment 159176

They look so nice I think you need to buy more to replace those grotty GWR wagons you normally have.

 

[Pencarrow]

Plan X, if you can see to cut a slot in the end of the square rod and then file the last 5 mil or so round, no soldering required.

It's ex LSWR so I'm using round rod not square. I don't think I have any type of saw blade that's thin enough to cut a slot in 0.4mm wire. I worry now that I've started a task I can't finish.

 

[Phil O]

Just flatten the end of the wire and file it, put a joggle in it to represent the fork and rest/super glue to the crank. No one is likely to see the subterfuge, except the all seeing camera.

 

[Pencarrow]

3D printed forks? Perhaps speak to Alan at Modelu?

I‘d happily draw them for you in 3D but not for a few days.

otherwise, square plastruct rod, drill to fit the wire rods & slot to fit the cranks. Don’t bother about cross-drilling for the pins (or do them later)

I'm going to have an experiment but I think I might end up with some very thin wire bent to an L and poked through the top of the crank. Then either solder or super glue to the rodding.

 

[Pencarrow]

Just flatten the end of the wire and file it, put a joggle in it to represent the fork and rest/super glue to the crank. No one is likely to see the subterfuge, except the all seeing camera.

Going to get my best flattening tools out Phil and see what happens.

 

[Phil O]

Nothing less than a 2lbs will do!, mind you a quick squeeze in the vice, may do the job.

 

[Pencarrow]

I think this sums up the situation...



The 3d printed crank is the aspiration... and the 7mm drill bit is available skill.

The smallest drill bit I have is 0.35mm and I thought that was tiny. The smallest diameter wire I currently have is 0.35mm. Much smaller diameter wire is on the way but I'm not sure that's going to help - I don't really do precision modelling.

Seriously considering ditching the whole idea.

 

[Pencarrow]

Wire squishing works...



This might make gluing easier.

 

[simond]

Placing that on top of the crank would give an appropriate appearance from a coach-length away.

Anyone gets any closer, growl at them.

 

[Pencarrow]

Placing that on top of the crank would give an appropriate appearance from a coach-length away.

Anyone gets any closer, growl at them.

I think that's going to have to be the acceptable compromise Simon.

 

[Andy P]

As I always say, 3ft away and one eye closed it will look spot on.

 

[Mark F]

While the S&T department ponder the point rodding issue, things are progressing nicely over in the wagon works.

(I should, perhaps, study the instructions more closely)