7mm Ressaldar's kit building swansong - verse the second - D6320
- Thread starter Ressaldar
- Start date
Muddysblues
Western Thunderer
Hello @Ressaldar Mike, I seem to recall the lower stripe is pale blue, possibly duck egg blue.
I have been trying to find where it is written.
Best regards
Craig
I have been trying to find where it is written.
Best regards
Craig
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
I am pretty sure it's pale grey. I’ve just checked through some colour references, and it’s the same shade as used on the Warship stripe. That’s definitely not pale blue. Duck egg blue was used in the BTH and NBL Type 1 cab fronts
What became Classes 24/25 and 26/27 appear to have had an ivory or pale cream strip.
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
I have three colour photos which are reproduced here for research purposes only - I do not know the origin except for the one of D6320 which is credited to RC Riley. Interestingly for our purposes the description accompanying the photo of D6320, which I attach in full, refers to the bodyline stripe as blue-grey with white numerals. Comparison of the two colours suggests that there is a touch of blue in there.
D6341 was photographed at Swindon on 21st October 1962 and D6344 at Reading on 1st June 1968 - now there's a subject for the weatherer's (if there is such a word) art.
Brian
D6341 was photographed at Swindon on 21st October 1962 and D6344 at Reading on 1st June 1968 - now there's a subject for the weatherer's (if there is such a word) art.
Brian
Andrew Thompson
Western Thunderer
Hi
Diesel Dawn North British Warships refers to a 2 1/2in light grey stripe was applied to the class D600 etc. As they came out of the same workshops I would have thought the same was applied to D6300 class.
This is the problem with references all have a different slant better ask Jeff Bezos to hurry up with that time machine.
Diesel Dawn North British Warships refers to a 2 1/2in light grey stripe was applied to the class D600 etc. As they came out of the same workshops I would have thought the same was applied to D6300 class.
This is the problem with references all have a different slant better ask Jeff Bezos to hurry up with that time machine.
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
On Fox transfers site they quote Rail Match colours for BR green diesel livery , the light grey is RM 303.
Paint Guide
Col.
Paint Guide
Col.
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
You should see some of the immense and contentious threads discussing aircraft colours on plastic model forums. We ain’t got nuffin' on them!
richard carr
Western Thunderer
I'm with Brian, I have always used a duck egg blue colour for the stripe, ie a light blue grey, the humbrol enamel one looks good to me.
Richard
Richard
Eastsidepilot
Western Thunderer
Andrew Thompson
Western Thunderer
Hi
Had a chance to look at my reference books and the following transpires.
Class 6300s originally finished with a duck egg blue (pale grey) coach - line at skirt level.
So one person's duck egg blue is another's pale grey.
Had a chance to look at my reference books and the following transpires.
Class 6300s originally finished with a duck egg blue (pale grey) coach - line at skirt level.
So one person's duck egg blue is another's pale grey.
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
Over the past few days a start has been made on the bogies, following the revised design allowing the sideframes to be removable for maintenence purposes:
the white plasticard strip has been grafted in to make good the flange edge that was damaged when the sideframe was sawn off of the carrier. The only other amendment was to use 10BA bolts for the bogie swivel plates - the holes were made for 10BA but the instructions said 8BA and 8BA bolts were provided.
Next up will be the wheels (once they are blackened) followed by the motor/gearbox and delrin drive. Once that is all up and running, it's the brake hangers and pull rods, additional pipework and brake cylinders - always assuming that it stops raining long enough for me to get out into the workshop!
regards
Mike
the white plasticard strip has been grafted in to make good the flange edge that was damaged when the sideframe was sawn off of the carrier. The only other amendment was to use 10BA bolts for the bogie swivel plates - the holes were made for 10BA but the instructions said 8BA and 8BA bolts were provided.
Next up will be the wheels (once they are blackened) followed by the motor/gearbox and delrin drive. Once that is all up and running, it's the brake hangers and pull rods, additional pipework and brake cylinders - always assuming that it stops raining long enough for me to get out into the workshop!
regards
Mike
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
Otherwise engaged for most of the week and a one step forward and two steps back moment as well.
I squared off the aperture for the gearbox and also roughed out a clearance space for the final drive in the bottom angle - just seen in the centre of the shot above. Then I had a moment of madness and decided to trial fit the motor/gearbox and delrin drive sprocket as I was mindful that I have to trim the boss of the sprocket down to fit in the remaining space on the axle and also give sufficient room for the chain to pass outside the gearbox. Having reduced the sprocket boss, I slid the axle through the outside bearing then the gearbox and lined up the sprocket boss and carefully pushed the axle through then fitted the outside bearing. The sprocket needed adjusting away from the gearbox and as with the previous model, I used a flat screwdriver between the gearbox and the sprocket and twisted slowly - the blade slipped and promptly cut off one of the sprocket teeth
It was at this point that the penny dropped and I realised that I should have not only put the brake pull rods on first but I should also have put the brake hangers on (so that I could align the pull rods) but I should have also primed and painted the whole bogie first
so I removed the axle and set about righting the error of my ways, came in and ordered a replacement sprocket and a couple of spares while I was at it.
Having left things for a couple of days I have now fitted the brakes and the pull rods, both fitted nicely and much better than the 3D printed offerings in the previous kit
The instructions would have you fitting the outer ends of the pull rods to the frame sides and warn you if you do this it then makes it almost impossible to get to the wheels etc once you have completed the task, so as I had made provision to make the sides removable, I glued the outer ends to the chassis block and alignment wise you can hardly notice the difference. The inner ends of the rods are cast with a hole in which fits over a spigot on the bottom of the brake hanger, I enlarged the hole so that slips over the spigot and thus makes it easy when removing the sideframes.
The bogies will be primed later and painted tomorrow, hopefully the postie will deliver the sprockets and I will be able to finish the bogies off and at least have a test run on the rolling road.
More to come soon.
regards
Mike
I squared off the aperture for the gearbox and also roughed out a clearance space for the final drive in the bottom angle - just seen in the centre of the shot above. Then I had a moment of madness and decided to trial fit the motor/gearbox and delrin drive sprocket as I was mindful that I have to trim the boss of the sprocket down to fit in the remaining space on the axle and also give sufficient room for the chain to pass outside the gearbox. Having reduced the sprocket boss, I slid the axle through the outside bearing then the gearbox and lined up the sprocket boss and carefully pushed the axle through then fitted the outside bearing. The sprocket needed adjusting away from the gearbox and as with the previous model, I used a flat screwdriver between the gearbox and the sprocket and twisted slowly - the blade slipped and promptly cut off one of the sprocket teeth
It was at this point that the penny dropped and I realised that I should have not only put the brake pull rods on first but I should also have put the brake hangers on (so that I could align the pull rods) but I should have also primed and painted the whole bogie firstso I removed the axle and set about righting the error of my ways, came in and ordered a replacement sprocket and a couple of spares while I was at it.Having left things for a couple of days I have now fitted the brakes and the pull rods, both fitted nicely and much better than the 3D printed offerings in the previous kit
The instructions would have you fitting the outer ends of the pull rods to the frame sides and warn you if you do this it then makes it almost impossible to get to the wheels etc once you have completed the task, so as I had made provision to make the sides removable, I glued the outer ends to the chassis block and alignment wise you can hardly notice the difference. The inner ends of the rods are cast with a hole in which fits over a spigot on the bottom of the brake hanger, I enlarged the hole so that slips over the spigot and thus makes it easy when removing the sideframes.
The bogies will be primed later and painted tomorrow, hopefully the postie will deliver the sprockets and I will be able to finish the bogies off and at least have a test run on the rolling road.
More to come soon.
regards
Mike
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
The replacement sprockets eventually arrived on Tuesday, (having been posted 1st Class on Thursday) and duly fitted and tested on the rolling road and further tested on the Club continuous run tracks on Wednesday and last night and the general comment was how quiet it was running. The body consisted of the two outer walls, the bulkheads and the roof so it looked more like a motorised shed then even the LNER Y6s do! The testing up to yesterday had been carried out with the sprockets just pushed onto the axles but this morning I went for the belt and braces approach and pinned both sprockets to the axles.
The brake piping, lost wax castings and a great deal more convincing than the 3D printed versions supplied with the previous kit, plus my additional pipework was added to the bogies yesterday morning.
this afternoon has seen the Zimo MX699ks fitted + speaker and I am very pleased with the resulting sound and movement.
Tomorrow I will complete the chassis - buffer beam and pipework, steps, water tank vents etc. then get down to the cabs and lighting and giving further thought to a number.
More to follow.
regards
Mike
The brake piping, lost wax castings and a great deal more convincing than the 3D printed versions supplied with the previous kit, plus my additional pipework was added to the bogies yesterday morning.
this afternoon has seen the Zimo MX699ks fitted + speaker and I am very pleased with the resulting sound and movement.
Tomorrow I will complete the chassis - buffer beam and pipework, steps, water tank vents etc. then get down to the cabs and lighting and giving further thought to a number.
More to follow.
regards
Mike
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
Hi Graham,
do you want the polite answer? The only physical connection between the locos will be the couplings, the material connection (hopefully) will be that they are similar and recognisable as 22s.
I have only seen one photograph of the nose doors open and that was in a scrapyard!
Stay safe and well
regards
Mike
do you want the polite answer? The only physical connection between the locos will be the couplings, the material connection (hopefully) will be that they are similar and recognisable as 22s.
I have only seen one photograph of the nose doors open and that was in a scrapyard!
Stay safe and well
regards
Mike
Ressaldar
Western Thunderer
The first thing to report is that a number has been decided on - D6320 - who could resist such a compelling photo
D6320
The only thing that is missing is the SYP, which appears on another photo, so I have no excuses, except that the SYP will have to go on last of all as the masking involved would be very tricky if applying the yellow first.
I have put all of the detailing castings on the chassis and bogies and have also attached the cab doors in readiness for the fettling required to get the cab fit as close as possible to the rest of the body.
No 1 end to the right with the doors having just been inserted and the overall fit isn't too bad.
No 2 end, not quite as good but nit beyond recovery
No 2 end from the other side
No 1 end to the left, roof grill etches still to apply, bodyside etches will be fixed after painting.
The position of the white marker lights has been determined and will all be drilled out, the jury is still out as to which ones will be 'lit'. favourite at the moment is No1 end, lower left and lower centre, No 2 end, lower centre.
Hopefully more to come soon.
regards
Mike
D6320
The only thing that is missing is the SYP, which appears on another photo, so I have no excuses, except that the SYP will have to go on last of all as the masking involved would be very tricky if applying the yellow first.
I have put all of the detailing castings on the chassis and bogies and have also attached the cab doors in readiness for the fettling required to get the cab fit as close as possible to the rest of the body.
No 1 end to the right with the doors having just been inserted and the overall fit isn't too bad.
No 2 end, not quite as good but nit beyond recovery
No 2 end from the other side
No 1 end to the left, roof grill etches still to apply, bodyside etches will be fixed after painting.
The position of the white marker lights has been determined and will all be drilled out, the jury is still out as to which ones will be 'lit'. favourite at the moment is No1 end, lower left and lower centre, No 2 end, lower centre.
Hopefully more to come soon.
regards
Mike