richard carr
Western Thunderer
Those figures will get removed once I put everything back together I prefer my locos not to have crew.
So the next challenge was the front ditch lights, the atlas ones are appalling, they look nothing like the real things.
I 3D printed some a few months back and found some spares and set about fitting those.
So these just pull out, the wires are run through a nice channel in the frames, it's worth removing the multiple working cable to make fitting the new wires a bit easier, they just pull out and push back in again once it's done.
So here are the new ditch lights glued in place, I still need to feed the LED wires through the channel, I find a tiny bit of black tack placed in the channel helps keeps the wires in place while you screw the cover back on. You can see the tiny LEDs they are held in place with some Kristal Klear canopy glue. Once that is done each light needs wiring to it's own function on the decoder, you can then set each function to be a ditchlight, add in grade crossing logic, have one light set to the opposite phase to the other and then they will flash on and off like the real thing.
Then I went to put it all back together and found that it didn't run very well and the headlights didn't work, just great.
The running issue was down to having to remove the motors and then fit them back into the truck to get the side frames off, I had probably over tightened the screws putting them back together. As for the headlights I'm hoping that it's just a case of me plugging them back into the wrong sockets on the PCB.
So the next challenge was the front ditch lights, the atlas ones are appalling, they look nothing like the real things.
I 3D printed some a few months back and found some spares and set about fitting those.
So these just pull out, the wires are run through a nice channel in the frames, it's worth removing the multiple working cable to make fitting the new wires a bit easier, they just pull out and push back in again once it's done.
So here are the new ditch lights glued in place, I still need to feed the LED wires through the channel, I find a tiny bit of black tack placed in the channel helps keeps the wires in place while you screw the cover back on. You can see the tiny LEDs they are held in place with some Kristal Klear canopy glue. Once that is done each light needs wiring to it's own function on the decoder, you can then set each function to be a ditchlight, add in grade crossing logic, have one light set to the opposite phase to the other and then they will flash on and off like the real thing.
Then I went to put it all back together and found that it didn't run very well and the headlights didn't work, just great.
The running issue was down to having to remove the motors and then fit them back into the truck to get the side frames off, I had probably over tightened the screws putting them back together. As for the headlights I'm hoping that it's just a case of me plugging them back into the wrong sockets on the PCB.
