Rye Sands

[Andyj]

Yes it is, I've built two recently. To be honest I'm of the opposite opinion. The prickley pear kit was a real challenge (mainly due to the buffers - I've got absolutely no idea how you're supposed to drill a large enough hole for them) whereas most 3D prints are a doddle.

The quality of the 3D stuff is definitely less consistent though, but Chris's models are excellent.

Will

I think I drilled a hole close enough and then used a triangle file to open the hole out. I've done 2 of those with a 3rd in the works. Also got one of his SECR ballast wagons to do to go with some Chatham kits LBSCR ones.

 

[Willl]

I think I drilled a hole close enough and then used a triangle file to open the hole out. I've done 2 of those with a 3rd in the works. Also got one of his SECR ballast wagons to do to go with some Chatham kits LBSCR ones.

I think part of the problem is that I only have a pin vice so drilling through the buffer beams was basically impossible. I ended up chopping the buffers down but they unsurprisingly ended up wonky. The end result looks excellent though



The next layout project is now underway (it has been for a few weeks but only off/on). The theme isn't finalised but broadly speaking it will be something more urban. The initial idea was for a small goods yard, inspired by Chris Cox's Bricklayses Arms, but I'm now contemplating modelling the excavation of a cut-and-cover line, with the railway representing part of a contractor's system.

I'll be sharing more on this in the coming weeks, probably in a separate thread (unless it becomes more South Eastern!)






Will

 

[Alan]

I like your fiddle stick, might use that idea on my possible micro layout.

 

[Willl]

Thanks Alan, I will add some photos tonight showing how it works but it is basically supported by a tongue that slots into a hole on the end of the baseboard. The alignment and power is all from the fishplates, which are soldered onto copper clad sleeper/brass screws for durability.
Will

 

[Alan]

Hi Will do we get to see snaps of the fiddleyard in operation?

 

[NHY 581]

Thanks Alan, I will add some photos tonight showing how it works but it is basically supported by a tongue that slots into a hole on the end of the baseboard. The alignment and power is all from the fishplates, which are soldered onto copper clad sleeper/brass screws for durability.
Will

Morning Will,

Thar's pretty much how the 'Fiddly Area Re-shuffling Table' works on Ewe. Very basic but simple enough to work.

Rob.

 

[John Bruce]

For those of us who favour the shuffling around of a few wagons simple is perfectly adequate. Indeed on my new Micro there was only going to be one point and that has been replaced by a simple pivoted sector place which save both length and money, have you seen how much points cost these days .

John Bruce.

 

[Willl]

Hi Will do we get to see snaps of the fiddleyard in operation?

Hi Alan,
Hopefully these photos are self explanatory. Ignore the hole in the 'tongue'... I may have forgotten to check that it wasn't in the way before drilling the hole for one of the point motors!












Rye Sands uses a completely different design which I can get pictures of when I'm back home. It's got a small traverser which uses some extremely short bi-directional drawer runners. In terms of alignment, the solution shown above is actually much better than what I achieved on Rye Sands, despite the latter using proper alignment dowels and huge M10 bolts


Will

 

[Alan]

Many thanks Will.

 

[Willl]

I've been modelling in various formats for most of my life and have done plenty of plastic kits, 3d prints, and now even scratch building, but something I had always feared like the plague was etched brass

I'm not really sure why I had such an aversion to it, perhaps because as a 10-ish year old I bought an N gauge kit for a brass class 04, didn't really understand what it was, and ended up with a glue-covered pile of mangled metal. I also think there's something quite daunting about the prospect of turning something so two-dimensional into a 3d object, and which I struggled to get my head around. Then there's the whole world of chassis building, horn blocks, continuous springy bits etc. which I still don't really understand.

I've been wanting to try some etched brass for about a year now. I considered the Connoisseur kits starter loco, but I don't really have much call for O gauge stock (I do have some stock but no plans for a layout). I eventually settled on building a coach or van, and the Roxey Mouldings range looked just the ticket. I literally went to the stand at the Uckfield show and asked which of their kits was easiest, and the answer was the SECR grande vitesse van. I'm very pleased with that choice as the kit so far has been very well designed and the instructions super clear.

So here it is. I still have to figure out:

• the roof
• getting the bolts that retain the body to actually fit through the holes in the underframe (the body is just sitting on the underframe in the below photos)
• Axleboxes, buffers etc.

And then there's lining! I may go with the simplified SECR livery used during/post WW1, as this should be the simplest possible livery.


For a first etched kit, I'm very pleased with it. I made some mistakes along the way, and the brake rigging is a bit of a solder-y mess, but everything is square and the joints are all flush.


So why now? Well the next project will require the construction of some lovely little etched brass industrials, in particular a High Level Neilson (on order). It'll be a while until I embark on that though, practice makes perfect and all!


Will

 

[John Bruce]

Well done for biting the bullet, looks the dogs do dahs! And in the grey livery it will sit well with your other stock.

John Bruce.

 

[Andyj]

Looks good Will. First etched kit I built was a Roxey coach kit. Must have built about 20 of his coach kits now.
For the lining you could try a gold gel pen.

Andy

 

[Lyndhurstman]

Hello
A nice start. Once you're acclimatised, the water is lovely. Anything with a tumblehome is machina non grata to me I'd suggest spring-clipping the roof on, using some PB wire into the corners.

Regarding buffers and axleboxes, Lanarkshire Models are my Go To. They cover most variations (I must admit to a wagon bias; the prospect of anyone paying to visit the Wharf is nowt but a fever dream down by the Thames).

Cheers

Jan

 

[Willl]

Thanks all, I think I might order another (perhaps the LCDR equivalent) to keep the momentum up.

Two things i've noticed that i'm not 100% on:

• One of the markits wheels is a bit out of round. Is there any easy way to fix this?
• I washed the model once I was done soldering to remove the excess flux, but the solder joins have gone slightly dull and white. Is this just normal oxidation or is more cleaning in order?

Thanks,
Will

 

[John Bruce]

Will, if it helps with the roof I've recently built several (admittedly old whitemetal coaches) using tiny magnets to retain the roof, Magnets glued into the roof with brackets of tinplate in the coach bodies to match the magnets. It works OK with the tinplate brackets but is better with magnet to magnet although this is all a touch more clumpy.

John Bruce.

 

[Willl]

Thanks John, I've just fitted the roof which was a real struggle even with copious amounts of supeglue so that may be a better trick.

To be honest getting the roof to fit was by far the hardest part of the kit. I ended up having to use lots of poly cement to soften it and have managed to hide the worst sins by putting gutters along the edges. I have also had to sand it quite extensively to get a smooth curve. I think it looks alright though

The construction is now complete. I'll prime it on the weekend and then leave it a potentially indefinite amount of time until I pluck up the courage to do the lining!









Will

 

[Phil O]

I washed the model once I was done soldering to remove the excess flux, but the solder joins have gone slightly dull and white. Is this just normal oxidation or is more cleaning in order?

Hi Will,

Did you use any sort of cleaner? I use CIF, other brands are available. I use an old toothbrush to give the model a good scrub with it and then a good dunking in warm water to rinse it all off. Don't use washing up liquid as that leaves lanolin behind which can affect the paint finish.

 

[Andyj]

I'm another that uses CIF and an old toothbrush for cleaning.
You've done a good job on the roof Will. I always find fitting the roof a pain. It gets easier the more you do.

 

[Willl]

Hi Will,

Did you use any sort of cleaner? I use CIF, other brands are available. I use an old toothbrush to give the model a good scrub with it and then a good dunking in warm water to rinse it all off. Don't use washing up liquid as that leaves lanolin behind which can affect the paint finish.

ah, that may be it - I used standard washing up liquid but I was wondering if that may be to blame. It could also be related to the extremely hard water. I'm going to give it a proper clean this weekend and will then mask up the roof and apply some etch primer.

I'm another that uses CIF and an old toothbrush for cleaning.
You've done a good job on the roof Will. I always find fitting the roof a pain. It gets easier the more you do.

I did some more vigorous sanding after these pictures and have removed some of the lumps in the roof. I think it looks pretty smooth and level now, but i'm sure primer will reveal all my sins!

I've ordered a LCDR 4 wheel brake as a next build. I've always had a soft spot for the one on the Bluebell and it may be the start of a whole rake, depending on how the build goes. The plan is to gradually progress the complexity of the builds to develop my skills, with a view to having a go at the High Level Neilson in a few months. The order as planned is:

• LCDR 4 wheel brake
• High level / comet J72 chassis build - to get experience of making chassis
• RT Models Sentinel - first etched loco
• High Level Neilson ? or maybe more revision necessary!

Will

 

[Willl]

The grande vitesse van is all painted up. I'm not entirely convinced by the colour although the beauty of modelling SECR is nobody can actually decide what the correct colour is anyway!

I've not decided I've I'm going to line it or not yet. Once that's settled I'll make the final push and get it done





I've been working on my second etched kit this week. It's the aforementioned Roxey mouldings LCDR brake third. This is definitely a step up in difficulty. The instructions aren't nearly as good and some etches don't seem quite right. The duckets for example don't seem to be designed with the curve where it meets the carriage side, instead just having a flat plane. It was easy enough to reshape it into a curve with some trimming and sanding but given how new I am to this game I was a little nervous departing from the instructions.

I also found out the hard way what happens when you hold the soldering iron in one place for too long, hence the little dent in the non-ducket end

The coach seemed to have an infinite number of overlays and door handles which meant just preparing the coach sides took the same amount of time as the whole Grande Vitesse van build. The sides need some more tidying up

If anyone has tips for removing excess solder from the panel lines beyond just scribing it out they'd be much appreciated!









I'm very much enjoying this etched brass lark but I can't help but feel the more I do the more daunted I become about the prospect of attempting a loco, especially the high level neilson I've got on the way!

Will