jonte
Western Thunderer
Those verticals look truer than mine.
Seacombe signal cabin: an unsuccessful attempt.
- Thread starter jonte
- Start date
Those verticals look truer than mine.
Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
Hi Jonte,
I love the way the above descends from reportage to madness within a few lines. A pithy precis of the 'delights' associated with our dalliances. I doff my hat to the restorative Gentleman Of The Road
Cheers
Jan
I love the way the above descends from reportage to madness within a few lines. A pithy precis of the 'delights' associated with our dalliances. I doff my hat to the restorative Gentleman Of The Road
Cheers
Jan
jonte
Western Thunderer
Hi Jonte,
I love the way the above descends from reportage to madness within a few lines. A pithy precis of the 'delights' associated with our dalliances. I doff my hat to the restorative Gentleman Of The Road
Cheers
Jan
Well, quite.
I'm afraid there's very little for the grown-ups in any of my half baked threads, Jan, as you well know.
Restorative gentleman........luv it, Jan!
Bestest,
Jonte
jonte
Western Thunderer
Good morning, readers.Just an update for those of you who've been kind enough to express an interest or two into this rudderless thread thus far.
Persevered with the window frame building which is thankfully behind me now, apart from the three in the front of the brick basement which shouldn't be too bad in comparison. Here's a photo for you:
Incidentally, I'm still using my iPad to takepiccies with cos I'm too lazy to connect the camera to the lap top, but this means me having to take every photo twice (in different orientations) so that when I upload, I can select the one that comes out the right way up, in the orthopedical interests of my scant readership. I remember Adrian posting about a new facility that allows us to reorientate after uploading, but my ignorance precludes me from finding it, so please accept my humblest apologies. Btw, the other photo was in sharper focus than this one, but I hope it serves to give you the general idea.
Back to the frames.......all are the same height, however, those in groups of three (side windows) are narrower due to my slight compression of the cabin width for the sake of expediency. Each has been primed with an acrylic spray then undercoated with a dark matt grey Humbrol enamel. This was followed by two ultra thin coats of Matt Humbrol enamel this time in white. Hopefully, this will achieve the desired effect of weathered windows that have reached the point of paint fading at differential rates, but not quite yet at the peeling stage. Eventually a dust here and there with a mix of weathering powders should help to kid you all. I hope....
The next stage will be to immerse the lot in a bath of warm water and detergent, and then gingerly try and persuade styrene frame and graph paper backing to part company with their solvent, primer and paint bond. In an unusual pique of foresight, I cannily coated the paper with candle wax to assist the delicate process, but with my usual pessimistic outlook on life, I'm expecting a battle ahead with at least one or two casualties, which will mean a return to the strained eyesight and lumbar pain.
Finally, the sticky out bits will need removing and the stumps filed down, before a general touch up with paint to blend it in; then, they can all be stuck onto their clear styrene backing with the assistance of some Humbrol Clear which I'm assured won't frost the glazing - MEK means postal charges!
Of course, this would have been a darned sight easier if I'd built them directly onto the glazing material, however, this would have made the painting a great deal harder, especially for one lacking dexterity of any form, and in any case, who's ever seen a signal box with whitewashed windows, ahum....
In between coats, I set about addressing the windows in the brick base.
After measuring and marking, I cut out the apertures in the embossed brick, removing the bulk from the arched lintels with a scalpel, before finishing off with a rounded file. This was a mistake as I couldn't find a way to make the bricks forming the lintel fit. The solution was to fabricate the arched lintels first using a method I eventually finalised on another lash piece of plasticard that was fortuitously of the right thickness, my initial attempts can be seen on the attached photo.
Later today I'll mark and cut them properly, using a blunt scalpel to form the mortar lines.
Unfortunately, due to my naivety, I now have even less embossed brick left, so will have to concede to buying some more; so much for the budget build! That will involve a trip to Preston in the morning as they are the nearest supplier of Slaters', as I don't want to waste any of my limited window on hanging around waiting for it to be delivered.
Never mind, I have my niece staying following the end of the University semester, so will use it as an excuse to take her sight-seeing.
So there you go, reader. It's not much, but least I'm able to report some progress.
Thanks for looking in,
Jonte
adrian
Flying Squad
You should see a "rotate" option at the bottom of your post. It'll only appear once you have posted , i.e. you can't do it whilst in the middle of composing a post, it's there to correct images after posting, click on it and see what happens.
That will be an extremely short sight-seeing visit then,
, unless she has a penchant for traffic jams and road works.
jonte
Western Thunderer
You should see a "rotate" option at the bottom of your post. It'll only appear once you have posted , i.e. you can't do it whilst in the middle of composing a post, it's there to correct images after posting, click on it and see what happens.
Ah, I see.
Thanks, Adrian
Jonte
That will be an extremely short sight-seeing visit then,
It's the country bits in between and perhaps a canal side lunch in Scarisbrick if the weather holds.
Jonte
Nice work on the frames Jonte. I bought a selection of frames from York Modelmaking and thought wow this scratchbuilding lark is getting expensive. Next time I need frames I will follow your methods.
Time I have, cash as always is a bit more scarce so your method will be well worth a go.
John
Time I have, cash as always is a bit more scarce so your method will be well worth a go.
John
jonte
Western Thunderer
jonte
Western Thunderer
"Summer Breeze, pain in the **** "
The hazards encountered whilst modelling in the garden prompted me to re-pen the lyric of this classic Isley hit, the consequences of which can be detected by the missing brick in the arched lintel of the right hand most window in the following photo:
Briefly, the process of scoring the plasticard to represent the arched bricks prior to cutting out, as you will all know, can seldom be completed without at least one section of brick parting company from the other. I suppose the benefit of this is that it makes the task of fitting a little easier when planing down and testing for fit in the embossed brick aperture. The downside is that if you part fit and then decide to leave the last bit on the makeshift workbench in your garden while you pop in to put the kettle on, leaving it to the mercy of the elements.......well there was no cooling breeze beforehand when I was sweltering in this current Mediterranean style heatwave, so why do these things happen the moment you turn your back?
Needless to say, a fingertip search of the immediate vicinity proved fruitless, so the marking out and cutting with scalpel, compass, dividers and needle was reluctantly repeated for the sake of one darned brick! It has yet to be fitted in the attached photo, but is snug in its gap as I write.
As you can see, after much deliberation, I decided to opt for plasticard construction as the concern about the longevity of a bond between paper and embossed plasticard using pva weighed heavy; there should be enough to see me through, although as mentioned in my previous thread, I reneged and went out and bought a new sheet of Slaters' brick as it was simply false economy. The advantage of this, was that I can now build it faithful to the prototype which was constructed of English bond brickwork, so, not such a bad outcome after all.
Family commitments dictated that this is the only progress made since last time, although a lot of umming and ahh-ing has taken place to work out how next to proceed as this is the first time I've built a signal box from scratch, and with the budget in mind, there's not a lot of leeway for cocking up.
I've left the windows to soak in a bath of hot water and detergent overnight, so peeling off the backing paper and tidying them up will be the next step.
Thanks for looking,
Jonte
The hazards encountered whilst modelling in the garden prompted me to re-pen the lyric of this classic Isley hit, the consequences of which can be detected by the missing brick in the arched lintel of the right hand most window in the following photo:
Briefly, the process of scoring the plasticard to represent the arched bricks prior to cutting out, as you will all know, can seldom be completed without at least one section of brick parting company from the other. I suppose the benefit of this is that it makes the task of fitting a little easier when planing down and testing for fit in the embossed brick aperture. The downside is that if you part fit and then decide to leave the last bit on the makeshift workbench in your garden while you pop in to put the kettle on, leaving it to the mercy of the elements.......well there was no cooling breeze beforehand when I was sweltering in this current Mediterranean style heatwave, so why do these things happen the moment you turn your back?
Needless to say, a fingertip search of the immediate vicinity proved fruitless, so the marking out and cutting with scalpel, compass, dividers and needle was reluctantly repeated for the sake of one darned brick! It has yet to be fitted in the attached photo, but is snug in its gap as I write.
As you can see, after much deliberation, I decided to opt for plasticard construction as the concern about the longevity of a bond between paper and embossed plasticard using pva weighed heavy; there should be enough to see me through, although as mentioned in my previous thread, I reneged and went out and bought a new sheet of Slaters' brick as it was simply false economy. The advantage of this, was that I can now build it faithful to the prototype which was constructed of English bond brickwork, so, not such a bad outcome after all.
Family commitments dictated that this is the only progress made since last time, although a lot of umming and ahh-ing has taken place to work out how next to proceed as this is the first time I've built a signal box from scratch, and with the budget in mind, there's not a lot of leeway for cocking up.
I've left the windows to soak in a bath of hot water and detergent overnight, so peeling off the backing paper and tidying them up will be the next step.
Thanks for looking,
Jonte
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jonte
Western Thunderer
I don't wish to bore you all to death, especially when even a glacial pace would be preferential, but making windows this way really is one step forwards, two back.
But something, call it an effect, has come to light as a consequence of the method I've sought which might be of interest to others.
To recap, I'd left my window frames in soak in hot water and detergent at the end of the last post, in order to aid the process of parting frame from paper backing which had become adhered via a candle wax, primer and paint (several coats) bond. Although the back layer of paper came away easily, the thin front bit stuck like the proverbial you-know-wot to a blanket. Scrubbing with my wife's toothbrush (well you wouldn't expect me to use my own) resulted in this mess:
Concerned, I began cleaning it up with a scalpel, and to my surprise, it all came away quite easily. However, peering through my monocle (purchased solely for the purpose of adopting a true railway modeller like pretence of course, along with waistcoat, pocket watch and that rather quaint idiosyncrasy of using the abbreviated form of middle name twixt Christian and surnames, in the unlikely event that I actually enter and win the Cameo competition) I noticed that it feigned the crackled appearance of paint that overlaps onto the window pane. Well, to me anyway. So, rather than clean it all away I decided to leave it showing in places, although some may feel I've overdone it; and perhaps I have. Others might think it's bl**dy awful, and again, perhaps they're right.
Perhaps it's a case of classic versus modern in as much as the abstract conveys a mood: classic, in this case, being window frames that are white, square cornered and neat, whereas mine convey atmosphe....... . Sound like a lame excuse?
Actually, I do like the effect, and I suppose the correct term is that it provides a little relief to the frames.
Still, I think it's a classic Marmite affair: you either love it or hate it. I hope one or two of you might like it and even wish to use it on a future build, and so I just thought I'd share my happy accident with you.
On the bright side, I'm pleased to report that there were none of the anticipated casualties sustained during the paper removal and cleaning up process; these came later, however, when removing the edges of the plastiglaze with scalpel and emery board, so I shall have to make some more..... This is definitely not for the impatient among us!
Incidentally, once the frames were soaked, cleaned and left to dry, they seemed to lose their rigidity and became flexible like the plastic parts of those Dapol kits that you get in plastic bags. They're pliability resulted in them losing their squareness which didn't ease the process of sticking them onto the plastiglaze
whilst trying in earnest not to leave glue residue on the glazing.
Whilst I might like the effect as described, it would be a darned sight easier just to build the frames directly onto the glazing with MEK....I'd probably have finished by now.
In the following, the frames have been glued onto the glazing with Humbrol Clear, the excess being easy to remove with a cocktail stick before it drys. A casualty can be seen second from left in top row (frame split from bottom) and will need replacing. Btw, the thin white top coat came off during the scrubbing process, so a further thin coat will have to gingerly applied afterwards......without getting any on the glazing!
A couple that have been cleaned up.
And that's it.
Till next time, thanks for reading,
jonte
Edit: in that last photo, the frame has split at the bottom although this can be resolved when final fixing into frame.
But something, call it an effect, has come to light as a consequence of the method I've sought which might be of interest to others.
To recap, I'd left my window frames in soak in hot water and detergent at the end of the last post, in order to aid the process of parting frame from paper backing which had become adhered via a candle wax, primer and paint (several coats) bond. Although the back layer of paper came away easily, the thin front bit stuck like the proverbial you-know-wot to a blanket. Scrubbing with my wife's toothbrush (well you wouldn't expect me to use my own) resulted in this mess:
Concerned, I began cleaning it up with a scalpel, and to my surprise, it all came away quite easily. However, peering through my monocle (purchased solely for the purpose of adopting a true railway modeller like pretence of course, along with waistcoat, pocket watch and that rather quaint idiosyncrasy of using the abbreviated form of middle name twixt Christian and surnames, in the unlikely event that I actually enter and win the Cameo competition) I noticed that it feigned the crackled appearance of paint that overlaps onto the window pane. Well, to me anyway. So, rather than clean it all away I decided to leave it showing in places, although some may feel I've overdone it; and perhaps I have. Others might think it's bl**dy awful, and again, perhaps they're right.
Perhaps it's a case of classic versus modern in as much as the abstract conveys a mood: classic, in this case, being window frames that are white, square cornered and neat, whereas mine convey atmosphe....... . Sound like a lame excuse?
Actually, I do like the effect, and I suppose the correct term is that it provides a little relief to the frames.
Still, I think it's a classic Marmite affair: you either love it or hate it. I hope one or two of you might like it and even wish to use it on a future build, and so I just thought I'd share my happy accident with you.
On the bright side, I'm pleased to report that there were none of the anticipated casualties sustained during the paper removal and cleaning up process; these came later, however, when removing the edges of the plastiglaze with scalpel and emery board, so I shall have to make some more..... This is definitely not for the impatient among us!
Incidentally, once the frames were soaked, cleaned and left to dry, they seemed to lose their rigidity and became flexible like the plastic parts of those Dapol kits that you get in plastic bags. They're pliability resulted in them losing their squareness which didn't ease the process of sticking them onto the plastiglaze
whilst trying in earnest not to leave glue residue on the glazing.
Whilst I might like the effect as described, it would be a darned sight easier just to build the frames directly onto the glazing with MEK....I'd probably have finished by now.
In the following, the frames have been glued onto the glazing with Humbrol Clear, the excess being easy to remove with a cocktail stick before it drys. A casualty can be seen second from left in top row (frame split from bottom) and will need replacing. Btw, the thin white top coat came off during the scrubbing process, so a further thin coat will have to gingerly applied afterwards......without getting any on the glazing!
A couple that have been cleaned up.
And that's it.
Till next time, thanks for reading,
jonte
Edit: in that last photo, the frame has split at the bottom although this can be resolved when final fixing into frame.
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It's interesting watching your fight with these frames Jonte. They are a bitch of a job to do well which is why I chickened out and bought a load from York Modelmaking, at a price !
Yours are looking good so I think I will give your method a go, even if they take a while it would be a good cost saving and of course means more flexibility with window sizes.
I vaguely remember reading that brilliant white didn't exist pre war so I reckon the shabbier they look the better, I would be interested to know if I am correct in this, certainly looking at period photos the colours seem to be decidedly gloomy.
John
Yours are looking good so I think I will give your method a go, even if they take a while it would be a good cost saving and of course means more flexibility with window sizes.
I vaguely remember reading that brilliant white didn't exist pre war so I reckon the shabbier they look the better, I would be interested to know if I am correct in this, certainly looking at period photos the colours seem to be decidedly gloomy.
John
jonte
Western Thunderer
Hi, John, and thanks for your interest.
I'll be honest: when one of the first frames to be sanded fell apart before my very eyes, I was sorely tempted to ring Modelex! But I suppose that's the benefit of going public, you'll go the extra mile (in the form of perseverance, in this case) to try and make it work. Then again, if it's a bum steer, well so be it; some times it works, sometimes.......it's all part of the hobby after all (trying desperately to be philosophical here but the air was blue). On the bright side, I wouldn't have discovered the crackley paint effect so every cloud, as they say.
You're probably right about the gloomy pre-war shade, John, however I'm unlikely to get away with this in 1960 (towards the end of the line's existence) when 'whites were whiter' (or am I thinking of something else?- oh, the power of advertising). Certainly in the photo of the cabin I purchased, the frames look a little brighter although that could be due to the contrast between the White of the frames and the darker shade of LMS stone in which the shiplap(?) exterior was painted.
Frankly, the photo's in b&w so it's all guess work really.
Ultimately, while making the frames maybe cheaper, it's also time consuming, and that metaphorical window isn't as open as it was last week, if you see what I mean ( not sure I even follow that!).
I suppose what I'm trying to say is, time is money and money can buy you time, a commodity of which there isn't much for the foreseeable future, which is why I commissioned another member to kindly churn out the umpteen concrete platform supports that will be required to shore up Seacombe's remains platform.
Thanks again for tuning in, and hopefully in a couple of days or so I'll have made a little more progress with which to hold your interest.
Kindest,
jonte
I'll be honest: when one of the first frames to be sanded fell apart before my very eyes, I was sorely tempted to ring Modelex! But I suppose that's the benefit of going public, you'll go the extra mile (in the form of perseverance, in this case) to try and make it work. Then again, if it's a bum steer, well so be it; some times it works, sometimes.......it's all part of the hobby after all (trying desperately to be philosophical here but the air was blue). On the bright side, I wouldn't have discovered the crackley paint effect so every cloud, as they say.
You're probably right about the gloomy pre-war shade, John, however I'm unlikely to get away with this in 1960 (towards the end of the line's existence) when 'whites were whiter' (or am I thinking of something else?- oh, the power of advertising). Certainly in the photo of the cabin I purchased, the frames look a little brighter although that could be due to the contrast between the White of the frames and the darker shade of LMS stone in which the shiplap(?) exterior was painted.
Frankly, the photo's in b&w so it's all guess work really.
Ultimately, while making the frames maybe cheaper, it's also time consuming, and that metaphorical window isn't as open as it was last week, if you see what I mean ( not sure I even follow that!).
I suppose what I'm trying to say is, time is money and money can buy you time, a commodity of which there isn't much for the foreseeable future, which is why I commissioned another member to kindly churn out the umpteen concrete platform supports that will be required to shore up Seacombe's remains platform.
Thanks again for tuning in, and hopefully in a couple of days or so I'll have made a little more progress with which to hold your interest.
Kindest,
jonte
Icknieldrobin
New Member
A bit late to the party I'm afraid vis a vis what adhesive to use with foam board. I've built my platforms of the stuff and faced it with plastikard using PVA and several sections have lifted after only 12 mths [in a garage]. I've also tried narrow sections of double sided tape as the joining medium and so far no problems what so ever. The foam board is the cheapo stuff bought from a craft chain rather than the more solid board.
HTH
Doug
HTH
Doug
jonte
Western Thunderer
Hi, Doug.
That's okay; I've been keeping a cold beer in eager anticipation of your arrival
From yours, and that of John's, experience with Pva and foamboard it would appear that fluctuations in temperature and humidity seem to be aggravating factors here, as I recall John's platform surfaces returned to 'normal' after removal to a home environment.
In my case, the buildings you see in my first post have been 'resting' in a former out building that was converted to living standards several years ago, so have thankfully been spared the rigours of atmospheric extremes.
Incidentally, after John's heads-up about the perils of using Pva as a reliable adhesive between foambard and an embossed plasticard fascia, I got to thinking about an alternative solution as I desperately wanted to make use of the bits and bobs I had knocking around, at which point I recalled reading about a modeller who had also used double sided sticking tape for the purpose, but in this case, it was between a plasticard shell and the embossed plasticard front in an attempt to stop the dreaded warping caused by solvents. In the event, with discretion being the better part of valour, I bottled it and just opted to use the leftover plasticard for the build.
In the 'too-awful-to-contemplate' event that it begins to resemble a banana, I shall return to the sticky tape as you sagely suggest.........after a break from modelling of some ten years or so to get over the trauma!
As I recall, my foamboard was purchased from an art supply shop as the out-of-town hobby type store wasn't around then, although any future purchases will probably be from there as it's easier to travel to and park etc..
As an aside, a friend of mine is adept at recreating all sorts of lithological and masonry textures in the foam 'core' after soaking the stuff in water to remove the card faces. I tried this myself and found that if you remove card surfaces, the foam remains quite flat. Thinking about it, my friend's creations reside on his train set in the loft which IS subject to atmospheric extremes, and yet, as far as I can recall anyway, there have been none of the horror events that we've been discussing. Perhaps, then, the card is the problem here, not the foam, and further experimenation would prove fruitful?
Anyway, Doug, thanks for sharing and also your valued interest.
Best wishes,
jonte
That's okay; I've been keeping a cold beer in eager anticipation of your arrival
From yours, and that of John's, experience with Pva and foamboard it would appear that fluctuations in temperature and humidity seem to be aggravating factors here, as I recall John's platform surfaces returned to 'normal' after removal to a home environment.
In my case, the buildings you see in my first post have been 'resting' in a former out building that was converted to living standards several years ago, so have thankfully been spared the rigours of atmospheric extremes.
Incidentally, after John's heads-up about the perils of using Pva as a reliable adhesive between foambard and an embossed plasticard fascia, I got to thinking about an alternative solution as I desperately wanted to make use of the bits and bobs I had knocking around, at which point I recalled reading about a modeller who had also used double sided sticking tape for the purpose, but in this case, it was between a plasticard shell and the embossed plasticard front in an attempt to stop the dreaded warping caused by solvents. In the event, with discretion being the better part of valour, I bottled it and just opted to use the leftover plasticard for the build.
In the 'too-awful-to-contemplate' event that it begins to resemble a banana, I shall return to the sticky tape as you sagely suggest.........after a break from modelling of some ten years or so to get over the trauma!
As I recall, my foamboard was purchased from an art supply shop as the out-of-town hobby type store wasn't around then, although any future purchases will probably be from there as it's easier to travel to and park etc..
As an aside, a friend of mine is adept at recreating all sorts of lithological and masonry textures in the foam 'core' after soaking the stuff in water to remove the card faces. I tried this myself and found that if you remove card surfaces, the foam remains quite flat. Thinking about it, my friend's creations reside on his train set in the loft which IS subject to atmospheric extremes, and yet, as far as I can recall anyway, there have been none of the horror events that we've been discussing. Perhaps, then, the card is the problem here, not the foam, and further experimenation would prove fruitful?
Anyway, Doug, thanks for sharing and also your valued interest.
Best wishes,
jonte
jonte
Western Thunderer
Hi folks.
Thought I'd share the fruits of my latest endeavours with you in the form of the locking room windows:
And here with the front section just placed over them for effect:
Frankly, I don't like them.
Asymmetrical frames just won't cut it, although I'm not chucking them out just yet until I've sought a better option for making them, which might just involve forking out for the right tool from Expo or the likes.
Additionally, I'm not sure about the embossed brick. There won't be a lot to behold in this potential micro so detail is important, and I'm not sure, in this scale anyway, whether the texture or the construct of the material will satisfactorily convey the mood or authenticity of the prototype (I'm thinking here especially about the integrity of the mitred joins at meeting points of walls - using the method of construction I've adopted - and around windows and doorways).
Overnight, I tossed and turned trying to think of a solution, and I think it may have come (or returned) to me in the form of modelling clay over wooden shell. You may recall from my first post, I'd unsuccessfully tried this method already on the little outhouse building, but soon replaced it with one of foam board construction as, yet again, I wasn't happy with it, for reasons that will become clear.
On the bright side I can faithfully reproduce, as far as my photo will allow, the brick detail of the prototype and ensure with some ease, continuity of mortar courses around window apertures and corners; not forgetting that essential modelling ingredient of texture and relief that DAS type products bring to the mix.
On the downside, wood isn't the friendliest of materials when it comes to cutting out doors and windows, and I fear that the old piercing saw may be seeing some active service at some point, especially around the arched lintels. And while I welcome the presence of some texture along the surface of the masonry, wavy verticals and chips along the edges are a little too agricultural for an almost Edwardian edifice. On my previous attempt, I must have been a little too heavy handed with the scriber as the mortar courses were more like ploughed furrows rather than the barely noticeable indents of a real building, an effect that imparted a somewhat cartoon quality to the creation. Oh, even woe! the hazards of architectural modelling - on second thoughts, my stuff's not worthy of such a grand title. Perhaps I should call it more shapes with windows.
However, I think I may have hit on a solution to ease the agony of cutting out wood, and my saviour may come in the form of the thin birchwood ply you see in the tub of offcuts in a previous photo. Easier to cut, yes, but I've no doubt a single layer will warp as the clay dries, so I'm afraid a three layer laminate of the stuff will be belt and braces; three times the cutting yes, but easier cuts to make, as well as ease of sanding around curved lintels. Why is there always a pay off in life?
So that's where I'm up to.
On the one hand, disappointment and an unavoidable feeling of time wasted.
On the other, perhaps a little light at the end of the tunnel and a return to one of my aims for this build: to recycle (thanks, Jan), clutter that maybe should have been consigned to the bin a long time ago (I'm talking about the leftover materials not the part constructs in the earlier photos - hey, I've got feelings, you know!).
An enforced cessation in proceedings is around the corner, so maybe the break from modelling will help.
Thanks for reading,
jonte
Thought I'd share the fruits of my latest endeavours with you in the form of the locking room windows:
And here with the front section just placed over them for effect:
Frankly, I don't like them.
Asymmetrical frames just won't cut it, although I'm not chucking them out just yet until I've sought a better option for making them, which might just involve forking out for the right tool from Expo or the likes.
Additionally, I'm not sure about the embossed brick. There won't be a lot to behold in this potential micro so detail is important, and I'm not sure, in this scale anyway, whether the texture or the construct of the material will satisfactorily convey the mood or authenticity of the prototype (I'm thinking here especially about the integrity of the mitred joins at meeting points of walls - using the method of construction I've adopted - and around windows and doorways).
Overnight, I tossed and turned trying to think of a solution, and I think it may have come (or returned) to me in the form of modelling clay over wooden shell. You may recall from my first post, I'd unsuccessfully tried this method already on the little outhouse building, but soon replaced it with one of foam board construction as, yet again, I wasn't happy with it, for reasons that will become clear.
On the bright side I can faithfully reproduce, as far as my photo will allow, the brick detail of the prototype and ensure with some ease, continuity of mortar courses around window apertures and corners; not forgetting that essential modelling ingredient of texture and relief that DAS type products bring to the mix.
On the downside, wood isn't the friendliest of materials when it comes to cutting out doors and windows, and I fear that the old piercing saw may be seeing some active service at some point, especially around the arched lintels. And while I welcome the presence of some texture along the surface of the masonry, wavy verticals and chips along the edges are a little too agricultural for an almost Edwardian edifice. On my previous attempt, I must have been a little too heavy handed with the scriber as the mortar courses were more like ploughed furrows rather than the barely noticeable indents of a real building, an effect that imparted a somewhat cartoon quality to the creation. Oh, even woe! the hazards of architectural modelling - on second thoughts, my stuff's not worthy of such a grand title. Perhaps I should call it more shapes with windows.
However, I think I may have hit on a solution to ease the agony of cutting out wood, and my saviour may come in the form of the thin birchwood ply you see in the tub of offcuts in a previous photo. Easier to cut, yes, but I've no doubt a single layer will warp as the clay dries, so I'm afraid a three layer laminate of the stuff will be belt and braces; three times the cutting yes, but easier cuts to make, as well as ease of sanding around curved lintels. Why is there always a pay off in life?
So that's where I'm up to.
On the one hand, disappointment and an unavoidable feeling of time wasted.
On the other, perhaps a little light at the end of the tunnel and a return to one of my aims for this build: to recycle (thanks, Jan), clutter that maybe should have been consigned to the bin a long time ago (I'm talking about the leftover materials not the part constructs in the earlier photos - hey, I've got feelings, you know!).
An enforced cessation in proceedings is around the corner, so maybe the break from modelling will help.
Thanks for reading,
jonte
jonte
Western Thunderer
Bit of an idea.
Been looking at me 'bits in a bucket' and perhaps, by mixing and matching, have inadvertently found a solution to the problem of cutting apertures in the supporting shell I mentioned in my last post.
By laminating with the thin birch and offcuts of foamboard, I think I might have found a way to form a three ply material which will be light, easy to cut and warp free (fingers crossed) after the modelling clay is stuck on with pva.
Here's a piccie or two to show you what I mean:
What might not be clear from the photos is that I've placed the front and rear birch sheets so that the grain is at right angles to each other, just as belt and braces.
I think this might just work.
Worth try.
And thanks fellow Westerners for your likes and interest.
Regards,
jonte
Been looking at me 'bits in a bucket' and perhaps, by mixing and matching, have inadvertently found a solution to the problem of cutting apertures in the supporting shell I mentioned in my last post.
By laminating with the thin birch and offcuts of foamboard, I think I might have found a way to form a three ply material which will be light, easy to cut and warp free (fingers crossed) after the modelling clay is stuck on with pva.
Here's a piccie or two to show you what I mean:
What might not be clear from the photos is that I've placed the front and rear birch sheets so that the grain is at right angles to each other, just as belt and braces.
I think this might just work.
Worth try.
And thanks fellow Westerners for your likes and interest.
Regards,
jonte
Peter Insole
Western Thunderer
Jonte,
I hope you don't mind me throwing this into the mix, but all your fears about using some rather awkward and sometimes aggressive materials might be putting you off a bit - as well they might!
For small structures, there is much to be said for using simple (and much more user friendly stuff) like cardboard and that good old Resin W glue.
Mount Board is perfect, it is relatively cheap (it comes in huge sheets, so there is plenty to waste) and you don't have to break out large, metal things like fret saws to cut fine little odd shaped holes. A number 10A surgical scalpel blade and a steel ruler is all you will need.
Here is the internal blast wall I made for the Love Lane pill box:
As you can see, the structure was made rigid by gluing bass wood strips behind and between the wall surfaces. The bass is so soft that it can be cut reasonably accurately and cleanly with the knife too!
The brick coursing was scribed with nothing more than a 4H pencil...!
Working round the corners was achieved by making a cut and then gently opening the slit out by twisting the blade up and down.
Admittedly, I did rush the end joints a bit, but this was only meant to be an internal wall that would be barely visible once installed - a terrible excuse, I know!
If it had been otherwise, I would have used the proper method of nibbling out and lapping alternate courses, as in my Bagshot build thread!
The important part is the appearance - not what it is made of.
If it goes all wrong, or you just don't like it, you can simply chuck it in the compost bin: After all, cardboard and wood is bio-degradable, unlike that awful plastic and resin muck that we seem to be wedded to!!!
Pete.
I hope you don't mind me throwing this into the mix, but all your fears about using some rather awkward and sometimes aggressive materials might be putting you off a bit - as well they might!
For small structures, there is much to be said for using simple (and much more user friendly stuff) like cardboard and that good old Resin W glue.
Mount Board is perfect, it is relatively cheap (it comes in huge sheets, so there is plenty to waste) and you don't have to break out large, metal things like fret saws to cut fine little odd shaped holes. A number 10A surgical scalpel blade and a steel ruler is all you will need.
Here is the internal blast wall I made for the Love Lane pill box:
As you can see, the structure was made rigid by gluing bass wood strips behind and between the wall surfaces. The bass is so soft that it can be cut reasonably accurately and cleanly with the knife too!
The brick coursing was scribed with nothing more than a 4H pencil...!
Working round the corners was achieved by making a cut and then gently opening the slit out by twisting the blade up and down.
Admittedly, I did rush the end joints a bit, but this was only meant to be an internal wall that would be barely visible once installed - a terrible excuse, I know!
If it had been otherwise, I would have used the proper method of nibbling out and lapping alternate courses, as in my Bagshot build thread!
The important part is the appearance - not what it is made of.
If it goes all wrong, or you just don't like it, you can simply chuck it in the compost bin: After all, cardboard and wood is bio-degradable, unlike that awful plastic and resin muck that we seem to be wedded to!!!
Pete.
jonte
Western Thunderer
Dear Peter
Oh how I adore simple solutions to complicated problems!
However, I learned long ago that you have to be intelligent and ingenious to discover them; I'm merely incompetent which is why I have to do everything the hard way.
That's convincing stuff, Peter, not forgetting the artistry involved to bring it to life; very effective and lifelike.
I'm going to nick your ingenuity, if I may, as my next option as I'm still intrigued to know, if nothing, else whether my stuck together leftovers will resist warping. And the good thing is, Peter, I have a huge piece of thick grey card outside in my den just right for the purpose together with one or two lengths of hardwood section that is normally found in the workshops of model boat builders.
Light, tunnel end etc..
Thank you for your generous time and effort, Peter, in putting this instructive and helpful post together for me. You're most kind.
I'm looking forward to checking out Bagshot too where I'll no doubt learn a thing or two more.
Kind regards,
jonte
Edit:
Actually, no. What am I thinking?
Talk about looking a gift horse and all that.
Stuff the Ply and modelling clay; I'm off out to the den to dig out that card and hardwood section!
You've been good enough to share your very appealing method with me, Pete, so the least I can do is give it a go. And it's a nice way to while away a couple of hours in the garden now that the sun has decided to come out.
I'll let you know how I get on.
Cheers,
jonte
Oh how I adore simple solutions to complicated problems!
However, I learned long ago that you have to be intelligent and ingenious to discover them; I'm merely incompetent which is why I have to do everything the hard way.
That's convincing stuff, Peter, not forgetting the artistry involved to bring it to life; very effective and lifelike.
I'm going to nick your ingenuity, if I may, as my next option as I'm still intrigued to know, if nothing, else whether my stuck together leftovers will resist warping. And the good thing is, Peter, I have a huge piece of thick grey card outside in my den just right for the purpose together with one or two lengths of hardwood section that is normally found in the workshops of model boat builders.
Light, tunnel end etc..
Thank you for your generous time and effort, Peter, in putting this instructive and helpful post together for me. You're most kind.
I'm looking forward to checking out Bagshot too where I'll no doubt learn a thing or two more.
Kind regards,
jonte
Edit:
Actually, no. What am I thinking?
Talk about looking a gift horse and all that.
Stuff the Ply and modelling clay; I'm off out to the den to dig out that card and hardwood section!
You've been good enough to share your very appealing method with me, Pete, so the least I can do is give it a go. And it's a nice way to while away a couple of hours in the garden now that the sun has decided to come out.
I'll let you know how I get on.
Cheers,
jonte
Last edited:
Jonte, don't know if you have heard of this Company www.petite-properties.com but they do an awfully useful little booklet called 'Create exterior finishes'. They mainly aim at the dolls house hobby but lean much more to the authentic modelling of buildings rather than what you or I would think of as Dolls Houses.
I bought it some while ago and it is a really good booklet to add to the armoury, they also have their own range of paints.
Worth a look if nothing else.
John
I bought it some while ago and it is a really good booklet to add to the armoury, they also have their own range of paints.
Worth a look if nothing else.
John