Seacombe signal cabin: an unsuccessful attempt.
- Thread starter jonte
- Start date
jonte
Western Thunderer
Courtesy of Pete Insole, I had a bash at scribing some thick grey card that had spent some time propped up between the cushions of the patio furniture, and here is the result (front wall as test):
After priming:
Let's say it has potential.
There is a texture to the surface not unlike that of later brickwork, and the courses bear more of a resemblance to the prototype than the Slaters embossed stuff. Oh, and of course, it's easy to do and there's lots more card where that came from.
On the downside - yes, ever the pessimist - I can't help thinking it looks a little dated; more '77 than 2017, although in fairness, Pete's painted finish really looks the part, so maybe I shouldn't jump the gun.
Let's say the jury's out, it's neither in nor out at present, just like my previous attempt with the Slaters, although the three windows will be reworked in some type of jig that I'll have to give some thought to ensure a little more symmetry!
My next step will be to glue up the three ply laminate from left over bits as per yesterday's post, which I'll cover with DAS in the time honoured fashion. Only then will I know which method to plump for.
However, I'm afraid that will have to wait to allow a short hiatus from modelling. I just hope my enthusiasm returns with me.
Regards for now,
jonte
After priming:
Let's say it has potential.
There is a texture to the surface not unlike that of later brickwork, and the courses bear more of a resemblance to the prototype than the Slaters embossed stuff. Oh, and of course, it's easy to do and there's lots more card where that came from.
On the downside - yes, ever the pessimist - I can't help thinking it looks a little dated; more '77 than 2017, although in fairness, Pete's painted finish really looks the part, so maybe I shouldn't jump the gun.
Let's say the jury's out, it's neither in nor out at present, just like my previous attempt with the Slaters, although the three windows will be reworked in some type of jig that I'll have to give some thought to ensure a little more symmetry!
My next step will be to glue up the three ply laminate from left over bits as per yesterday's post, which I'll cover with DAS in the time honoured fashion. Only then will I know which method to plump for.
However, I'm afraid that will have to wait to allow a short hiatus from modelling. I just hope my enthusiasm returns with me.
Regards for now,
jonte
jonte
Western Thunderer
Back on the ball, I've used my time away from the forum to consider which method of construction to go with.
As you may recall, I'd decided to opt for the 3-ply laminate method finished off with a scribed modelling clay surface just before I left off. But a brief sojourn with these materials proved fraught. I'll post up a piccie or two to show you what I mean, but let's just say that the prospect was daunting, and as I want to enjoy the brief modelling time that I have, I just didn't want to go there. Thing is, if the method I've chosen ends in a cul-de-sac, I may have to revisit. For now, however...........
So, I've opted for Peter Insole's method of scribed grey board/card which is simple and easy to work with PLUS I've got loads of the stuff!
That said, I nearly used the only section formed to date as a frisbee when the card did what all cardboard does when you try and file it: turned fibrous. I refer of course to the forming of the arch of the window reveal which is great with styrene but no so with card as outlined. A spot of lunch with my wife followed by an unsuccessful attempt to form individual bricks from old greetings cards as an alternative....the less said about this the better, put me in a better frame of mind to try again with file on card. Success came in the form of filing at an angle of approximately thirty degrees to the work, filing the rear of the work first before finishing off at the front at right angles to the surface. I found the card comes away in a fine powder using this method leaving a nice clean edge. Of course, I'm sure most of you know this, but this is new territory for me.
Anyway, here's a photo of where I'm up to:
As you can see, before I went any further, I decided to apply a spot of paint to see whether the score marks remained visible and to determine how the card reacted under the paint, as there would be no point continuing if what had been achieved so far was lost (if you're reading this Peter, this is no reflection on the integrity of you're enjoyable modelling method, just my inability to carry it out!).
Thankfully, it looks as though it's worked although I just need to lightly sand the surface in one or two places prior to continuing, but apart from that, yeah; it looks okay.
Incidentally, the colour is a mix of dark grey, Matt black and metalcote Humbrol enamels to represent the dark mortar colour in the photograph I have of the signal cabin.
I'm quite pleased with the colour as the metalcote gives it that light fleck present in some mortars ( you can just make it out in the photo: it's the light bits that look as though the card is showing through underneath).
The next step will be to apply a dry brushed coat over the top in an appropriate brick colour, and if all goes well, I'll carry on scribing the side walls, and have a bash at building the window frames - hopefully they'll be a little more symmetrical than my first attempt.
Regards for now,
jonte
As you may recall, I'd decided to opt for the 3-ply laminate method finished off with a scribed modelling clay surface just before I left off. But a brief sojourn with these materials proved fraught. I'll post up a piccie or two to show you what I mean, but let's just say that the prospect was daunting, and as I want to enjoy the brief modelling time that I have, I just didn't want to go there. Thing is, if the method I've chosen ends in a cul-de-sac, I may have to revisit. For now, however...........
So, I've opted for Peter Insole's method of scribed grey board/card which is simple and easy to work with PLUS I've got loads of the stuff!
That said, I nearly used the only section formed to date as a frisbee when the card did what all cardboard does when you try and file it: turned fibrous. I refer of course to the forming of the arch of the window reveal which is great with styrene but no so with card as outlined. A spot of lunch with my wife followed by an unsuccessful attempt to form individual bricks from old greetings cards as an alternative....the less said about this the better, put me in a better frame of mind to try again with file on card. Success came in the form of filing at an angle of approximately thirty degrees to the work, filing the rear of the work first before finishing off at the front at right angles to the surface. I found the card comes away in a fine powder using this method leaving a nice clean edge. Of course, I'm sure most of you know this, but this is new territory for me.
Anyway, here's a photo of where I'm up to:
As you can see, before I went any further, I decided to apply a spot of paint to see whether the score marks remained visible and to determine how the card reacted under the paint, as there would be no point continuing if what had been achieved so far was lost (if you're reading this Peter, this is no reflection on the integrity of you're enjoyable modelling method, just my inability to carry it out!).
Thankfully, it looks as though it's worked although I just need to lightly sand the surface in one or two places prior to continuing, but apart from that, yeah; it looks okay.
Incidentally, the colour is a mix of dark grey, Matt black and metalcote Humbrol enamels to represent the dark mortar colour in the photograph I have of the signal cabin.
I'm quite pleased with the colour as the metalcote gives it that light fleck present in some mortars ( you can just make it out in the photo: it's the light bits that look as though the card is showing through underneath).
The next step will be to apply a dry brushed coat over the top in an appropriate brick colour, and if all goes well, I'll carry on scribing the side walls, and have a bash at building the window frames - hopefully they'll be a little more symmetrical than my first attempt.
Regards for now,
jonte
jonte
Western Thunderer
After a single dry brushed coat of Humbrol nos. 62 and 70 (general brickey colour as I've no idea what the real colour was and the Hoylake box built by the same company that stood for many years after, had a wooden base, so no use as a reference):
Slowly coming to life?
Regards,
jonte
Slowly coming to life?
Regards,
jonte
jonte
Western Thunderer
Not a lot to report, fellow Westerners, although a little progress has been made.
My second attempt at making locking room windows:
Better than last time. Not perfect but a little more symmetrical this time round, and I doubt that I could improve upon this with my limited ability.
In the picture, they've yet to have the backing paper removed and be cleaned up with a tooth brush as per the cabin windows. On this occasion, however, the extra relief around the frames by leaving some of the cracked paint in situ didn't work as the results made it look as though I'd cut out the glazing bars myself during a severe case of the D.T.s, so out came the files and with deftest touch mustered, I carefully cleaned them up. Apart from a retouch of paint here and there, I think I got away with it.
The blobby bits in the corners are touches of old tile grout used as a makeshift filler, as the Humbrol plastic filler left over from my youth had turned to stone. I was going to consign the antiquated tube to the bin, but somehow the manufacturer got wind of it and wilfully requested that I submit as an exhibit in their hall of antiquities. Humbrol, it's all yours.
Here they are cleaned up with the front wall placed over them for effect:
They're poised on the cabin side walls which have been scribed and primed as before.
Thanks for looking,
jonte
My second attempt at making locking room windows:
Better than last time. Not perfect but a little more symmetrical this time round, and I doubt that I could improve upon this with my limited ability.
In the picture, they've yet to have the backing paper removed and be cleaned up with a tooth brush as per the cabin windows. On this occasion, however, the extra relief around the frames by leaving some of the cracked paint in situ didn't work as the results made it look as though I'd cut out the glazing bars myself during a severe case of the D.T.s, so out came the files and with deftest touch mustered, I carefully cleaned them up. Apart from a retouch of paint here and there, I think I got away with it.
The blobby bits in the corners are touches of old tile grout used as a makeshift filler, as the Humbrol plastic filler left over from my youth had turned to stone. I was going to consign the antiquated tube to the bin, but somehow the manufacturer got wind of it and wilfully requested that I submit as an exhibit in their hall of antiquities. Humbrol, it's all yours.
Here they are cleaned up with the front wall placed over them for effect:
They're poised on the cabin side walls which have been scribed and primed as before.
Thanks for looking,
jonte
jonte
Western Thunderer
Thanks, Matt.
Will try and add some darker/lighter tones at some stage in the proceedings, using a colour photograph of an old box on Birkenhead docks as a guide. That's the general idea, anyway.
If it all goes pearshaped, I can always paint over it again as it's just drybrushed on.
Thanks for your interest,
jonte
jonte
Western Thunderer
Well not quite, but almost.
Having fabricated some replacement windows for those that had become casualties of the final sanding process (split frames etc.), I discovered that several of those that had, were slightly taller in height...... A solution, or so I thought, was to slice the bottoms of the lower frame which perhaps could be hidden behind a batten, those at the top being too noticeable to mess with. In the event, they looked terrible, so there was no other option than to fabricate replacements of the correct dimensions.
Frankly, WTers, I was surprised at my philosophical attitude to the slight cock-up: my usual response would be either to chuck the darned thing out of the window in a fit of temper or travel hastily down to 'da Smoke' and drag a moped miscreant from his stolen steed and mete out some summary justice.
But no, on this occasion I calmly and collectively put it down to experience, and within the hour, new frames had been drawn up, makeshift jigs blu-tacked on, and the first cross members were dexterously being adhered together. I was rather proud of my new found robust approach; at last, I'd grown up. Then I knocked over a new bottle of solvent
that drenched the drawings, the jigs, the styrene sections, the modelling mat......and the table (guess who couldn't be bothered covering it in newspaper before he started? Well, the wife was at work).
On my return from North east London, I successfully managed to fabricate those replacements without further ado, and buoyed in the knowledge that the patience testing task of signal box window making was safely behind me, I was eager to press on with other parts of the build. So, I turned my attention to building the frames for those dratted windows.
Generally satisfied with their outcome, and relived that I'd cut the sides to allow just enough room for manoeuvre without hacking out too much, I at last felt as though I was getting somewhere. Now, the frames - as far as I can tell - are true to the original. I say this, as the photograph in my possession shows only two sides. The rear I'm not worried about as it sits tight against a supporting wall, however, the side on which the signalman' s door and presumably locking room door are located are not shown in the photo, therefore, it's a work of pure fiction based on the design of similar boxes. However, even though I doubt this side will be seen, I decided to build the frame on the scenic side to match, which seemed the reasonable thing to do. Until, after it was built and the relevant side cut to fit, I realised the windows I'd made for that side were too big........
So, there was nothing for it, but to make some of a suitable size to fit. Back to the marking out, jig making, blurred vision and backache.
All of this preamble is just my long winded way of justifying my glacial progress, but now I know for certain that there will be no more need for window making thank.......!
All they need now is priming, painting, cleaning up and glazing, then they can be glued in the correct format before being fitted to the frames which themselves will require tidying up, priming painting and weathering before final fit.
Anyway, I'll shut up now and leave you with a photo of the frames slotted into the sides just to give you an idea of how they will look (and it's the right way up for once!).
Best wishes,
jonte
Having fabricated some replacement windows for those that had become casualties of the final sanding process (split frames etc.), I discovered that several of those that had, were slightly taller in height...... A solution, or so I thought, was to slice the bottoms of the lower frame which perhaps could be hidden behind a batten, those at the top being too noticeable to mess with. In the event, they looked terrible, so there was no other option than to fabricate replacements of the correct dimensions.
Frankly, WTers, I was surprised at my philosophical attitude to the slight cock-up: my usual response would be either to chuck the darned thing out of the window in a fit of temper or travel hastily down to 'da Smoke' and drag a moped miscreant from his stolen steed and mete out some summary justice.
But no, on this occasion I calmly and collectively put it down to experience, and within the hour, new frames had been drawn up, makeshift jigs blu-tacked on, and the first cross members were dexterously being adhered together. I was rather proud of my new found robust approach; at last, I'd grown up. Then I knocked over a new bottle of solvent
that drenched the drawings, the jigs, the styrene sections, the modelling mat......and the table (guess who couldn't be bothered covering it in newspaper before he started? Well, the wife was at work).
On my return from North east London, I successfully managed to fabricate those replacements without further ado, and buoyed in the knowledge that the patience testing task of signal box window making was safely behind me, I was eager to press on with other parts of the build. So, I turned my attention to building the frames for those dratted windows.
Generally satisfied with their outcome, and relived that I'd cut the sides to allow just enough room for manoeuvre without hacking out too much, I at last felt as though I was getting somewhere. Now, the frames - as far as I can tell - are true to the original. I say this, as the photograph in my possession shows only two sides. The rear I'm not worried about as it sits tight against a supporting wall, however, the side on which the signalman' s door and presumably locking room door are located are not shown in the photo, therefore, it's a work of pure fiction based on the design of similar boxes. However, even though I doubt this side will be seen, I decided to build the frame on the scenic side to match, which seemed the reasonable thing to do. Until, after it was built and the relevant side cut to fit, I realised the windows I'd made for that side were too big........
So, there was nothing for it, but to make some of a suitable size to fit. Back to the marking out, jig making, blurred vision and backache.
All of this preamble is just my long winded way of justifying my glacial progress, but now I know for certain that there will be no more need for window making thank.......!
All they need now is priming, painting, cleaning up and glazing, then they can be glued in the correct format before being fitted to the frames which themselves will require tidying up, priming painting and weathering before final fit.
Anyway, I'll shut up now and leave you with a photo of the frames slotted into the sides just to give you an idea of how they will look (and it's the right way up for once!).
Best wishes,
jonte
john lewsey
Western Thunderer
Looks good to me
jonte
Western Thunderer
Thanks, John.
Though, those York Modelling windows you mentioned are beginning to look more alluring.
Regards,
jonte
jonte
Western Thunderer
jonte
Western Thunderer
Meanwhile, back at the poor end:
At long last, the point has been reached where the flat bits are beginning to resemble some sort of structure.
I guessed that in using masking tape to clamp the structure together while drying, the brick face would inevitably become a casualty when removing it. As you can see WTers, I was right. The problem was that despite the general rigidity of grey board of this thickness (2mm), the darned thing showed a slight gap (a slight bow) right at the point where I didn't want it to: the scribed brick face. Ultimately, I don't think I had much choice, despite an option being to plug the gap with grout which grips well and can be easily scribed once dried. Also, once pinched together, the PVA glue really got a grip ( bonds really well to this stuff) and could probably, left its own devices, have done the job without the belt and braces approach of using tape. But knowing my luck, it would have opened up again once I'd left the room, so deciding not to trust to luck, I added the tape.
However, I'm not that perturbed, as the brick on the cabin door side which fared worst is the side that won't be seen (especially as it's at the rear) and the opposite wall that WILL be on show isn't too bad.
I'll rub down the door side with some fine sandpaper before rescribing both. I'm sure it can be recovered (fingers and everything else crossed).
Inside, I took the opportunity while still on the flat, to mark out and glue in some hardwood brackets which will support the floor (which should also provide some support to the structure). As I'm a stlyle over substance individual, this won't be a roof-off type model per se, however, as the observer can see through the cabin glazing (and this is fairly BIG modelling), there will be a requirement for the fitting of levers and some other ancillary signal box paraphernalia (suggestions as to where I can obtain these fitting would be very much appreciated, fellow WTers), so consideration still had to be given to this aspect of the build.
Next step will be to cut out the floor and then prime the inside of the upper story prior to painting. I think I might then be about ready to glue the two parts together to form a box!
Thanks for reading.
jonte
At long last, the point has been reached where the flat bits are beginning to resemble some sort of structure.
I guessed that in using masking tape to clamp the structure together while drying, the brick face would inevitably become a casualty when removing it. As you can see WTers, I was right. The problem was that despite the general rigidity of grey board of this thickness (2mm), the darned thing showed a slight gap (a slight bow) right at the point where I didn't want it to: the scribed brick face. Ultimately, I don't think I had much choice, despite an option being to plug the gap with grout which grips well and can be easily scribed once dried. Also, once pinched together, the PVA glue really got a grip ( bonds really well to this stuff) and could probably, left its own devices, have done the job without the belt and braces approach of using tape. But knowing my luck, it would have opened up again once I'd left the room, so deciding not to trust to luck, I added the tape.
However, I'm not that perturbed, as the brick on the cabin door side which fared worst is the side that won't be seen (especially as it's at the rear) and the opposite wall that WILL be on show isn't too bad.
I'll rub down the door side with some fine sandpaper before rescribing both. I'm sure it can be recovered (fingers and everything else crossed).
Inside, I took the opportunity while still on the flat, to mark out and glue in some hardwood brackets which will support the floor (which should also provide some support to the structure). As I'm a stlyle over substance individual, this won't be a roof-off type model per se, however, as the observer can see through the cabin glazing (and this is fairly BIG modelling), there will be a requirement for the fitting of levers and some other ancillary signal box paraphernalia (suggestions as to where I can obtain these fitting would be very much appreciated, fellow WTers), so consideration still had to be given to this aspect of the build.
Next step will be to cut out the floor and then prime the inside of the upper story prior to painting. I think I might then be about ready to glue the two parts together to form a box!
Thanks for reading.
jonte
Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
Nice work. And top marks for the optimism (never a strongpoint of mine ). I'm a fan of elastic bands - the point force suitably spread by a piece of stripwood twixt binding and bound. Cheap ones are good for weakness. A bit like the Argyle defence this evening...
Cheers
Jan
jonte
Western Thunderer
Hi Jan, and thanks for dropping by.
Of course, lazzy bands! Why didn't I think of that.... Better late than never, though, as I'll probably meet the same problem again before it's' finally finished, so many thanks for the tip.
Optimism, I'm afraid, is still one of many weak points as you probably gathered from my last post, but like the old proverb: try, try and..........(can't be bothered finishing that one).
Commiserations, Jan. As an Evertonian, I can certainly empathise when it comes to Derby games. And talking of defences, I hope Liverpo...... (nope, still can't bring myself to say that expletive) land Van Dijk: with a cart horse like him at the back, we might just stand a chance in the next one. Up the Argyle!
Bestest,
jonte
jonte
Western Thunderer
Just a brief update, but before I do I would like to register my sincerest thanks to fellow WT-er, Brush Type4, who, having taken pity on my plight, offered to fabricate those darned signal box windows - in their entirety - including the arched locking room windows on my behalf, free-of-charge! Not usually one to look a gift horse in the mouth, I would ordinarily have jumped at his kind and thoughtful offer, but this time I was doggedly determined to soldier on.
In truth, however, it came a little too late as I'd already finished and partly weathered them. In any case, plumb true verticals and equally spaced glass panels would just put the rest of my cut-up cereal packet creation to shame. Every cloud 'n' all that. Never mind perhaps next time, Phil, but thank you anyway for the extremely generous gesture.
Pleased to report that at last I have a four sided box, although not quite a signal box and certainly not as quickly as I would have liked. Despite making good progress after my last instalment, it wasn't until I came to offering up the front frame that I realised my error: by sanding an angle on the front panel to match the roof, I'd in essence made the roof line too low: the guttering etc would unprototypically obstruct the windows. The solution was to reinstate the height of the front of the box PLUS a bit more, by gluing on two thicknesses of card (effectively, putting a lid on it).
Whilst it solved that problem it created another: the corner framing (already temporarily installed - or so I thought, more of that in a mo') would have to be extended, not to mention that it also prevented full access to the interior for fitting levers etc. AND hindered the of fitting windows when the time came. In the end, the second and third problems - essentially the same problem - were purely academical as, having been naively unaware that solvent glue not only sticks plastic to plastic but plastic to cardboard too, by gluing the frames to their adjacent window frame to form a composite piece, I'd inadvertently glued the whole lot FIRMLY in place. This had now rendered the task a whole lot harder!
I hate modelling.
Actually, by writing that last statement, I think I may have just disqualified myself from entering the Cameo competition - if I'd ever had any real intention of entering in the first place - as one of the requirements of the competitor, if I remember rightly, was to have fun. Is that with a capital 'eff', Ricey?
Anyway, enough of the agony and on with the pictures.
Four sides of structure glued up and blutac providing a 'temporary' (see text) fix for window frames shored up by card offcut.
Still nothing protecting the table top from those iron weights. I never learn.
Frames now extended to meet heightened roof line and filler applied to hide joins (I hope). The card beneath partially marked out for scribing. These will form the brick plinth.
This next shot shows the beginnings of a locking room door I've knocked up from bits of plasticard and section (friction fitted for now).
Finally, a selection of windows partially weathered. Still need attacking with fibreglass pencil and dirt wash. The arched windows (echoes of Playschool?) already glazed, will be airbrushed with a dirt wash in Matt varnish to emulate splatter from passing trains before fitting.
Best wishes,
jonte
In truth, however, it came a little too late as I'd already finished and partly weathered them. In any case, plumb true verticals and equally spaced glass panels would just put the rest of my cut-up cereal packet creation to shame. Every cloud 'n' all that. Never mind perhaps next time, Phil, but thank you anyway for the extremely generous gesture.
Pleased to report that at last I have a four sided box, although not quite a signal box and certainly not as quickly as I would have liked. Despite making good progress after my last instalment, it wasn't until I came to offering up the front frame that I realised my error: by sanding an angle on the front panel to match the roof, I'd in essence made the roof line too low: the guttering etc would unprototypically obstruct the windows. The solution was to reinstate the height of the front of the box PLUS a bit more, by gluing on two thicknesses of card (effectively, putting a lid on it).
Whilst it solved that problem it created another: the corner framing (already temporarily installed - or so I thought, more of that in a mo') would have to be extended, not to mention that it also prevented full access to the interior for fitting levers etc. AND hindered the of fitting windows when the time came. In the end, the second and third problems - essentially the same problem - were purely academical as, having been naively unaware that solvent glue not only sticks plastic to plastic but plastic to cardboard too, by gluing the frames to their adjacent window frame to form a composite piece, I'd inadvertently glued the whole lot FIRMLY in place. This had now rendered the task a whole lot harder!
I hate modelling.
Actually, by writing that last statement, I think I may have just disqualified myself from entering the Cameo competition - if I'd ever had any real intention of entering in the first place - as one of the requirements of the competitor, if I remember rightly, was to have fun. Is that with a capital 'eff', Ricey?
Anyway, enough of the agony and on with the pictures.
Four sides of structure glued up and blutac providing a 'temporary' (see text) fix for window frames shored up by card offcut.
Still nothing protecting the table top from those iron weights. I never learn.
Frames now extended to meet heightened roof line and filler applied to hide joins (I hope). The card beneath partially marked out for scribing. These will form the brick plinth.
This next shot shows the beginnings of a locking room door I've knocked up from bits of plasticard and section (friction fitted for now).
Finally, a selection of windows partially weathered. Still need attacking with fibreglass pencil and dirt wash. The arched windows (echoes of Playschool?) already glazed, will be airbrushed with a dirt wash in Matt varnish to emulate splatter from passing trains before fitting.
Best wishes,
jonte
Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
jonte
Western Thunderer
Thanks, Jan.
Glad to read that my modelling mayhem serves some useful purpose. Only wish it could make me smile more, too
Excellent chassis pun btw. What was that quote about a fool and not knowing when to quit?
Many thanks as usual, Jan, for the warm words of encouragement.
Bestest,
jonte
PS the 'codpiece' video wouldn't download for some reason
Glad to read that my modelling mayhem serves some useful purpose. Only wish it could make me smile more, too
Excellent chassis pun btw. What was that quote about a fool and not knowing when to quit?
Many thanks as usual, Jan, for the warm words of encouragement.
Bestest,
jonte
PS the 'codpiece' video wouldn't download for some reason
jonte
Western Thunderer
"You've overcooked those, son", I could well imagine my dear departed Dad saying in response to my latest offerings, as one who spoke as he saw (or as the young of today would put it: he had no filter). And he would probably be right.
I refer, of course, to those windows mentioned in my last post that just needed distressing and weathering with a dirtied fibreglass brush and muddied wash. In the event, I'd left the paint too long to dry; the frame gave way well before the paint so some remedial work was required before I could continue (must make a note of using paint to glue frames in future in lieu of solvent). Undaunted, I pressed on, and on and......via other means, until cracks and blisters outweighed paint.
Despite wishing to portray the line in its final throes, I doubt it would ever have ended up in this state - but that's how I saw this subject in my mind's eye: overlooked, unkempt and left to rot. In short, abandoned to the elements, especially those abrasive sea-salt gusts funnelling through the narrowing Mersey estuary, acting like sandpaper on exposed timber surfaces. I know I implied earlier that in the interests of authenticity I needed to exercise restraint in the weathering department, but yet again I find myself in contradiction. Sometimes you just gotta go with the flow (my excuse and I'm sticking to it).
See for yourselves, WTers.
Glued with UHU that took an eternity to cure, and shot in natural light.
Glued with slow setting epoxy resin and shot under LED lighting (frames same colour as those in previous shot) and just placed in frames for orientation.
As I said, Dad would probably have been right, but for once I was having fun.
Best wishes,
jonte
I refer, of course, to those windows mentioned in my last post that just needed distressing and weathering with a dirtied fibreglass brush and muddied wash. In the event, I'd left the paint too long to dry; the frame gave way well before the paint so some remedial work was required before I could continue (must make a note of using paint to glue frames in future in lieu of solvent). Undaunted, I pressed on, and on and......via other means, until cracks and blisters outweighed paint.
Despite wishing to portray the line in its final throes, I doubt it would ever have ended up in this state - but that's how I saw this subject in my mind's eye: overlooked, unkempt and left to rot. In short, abandoned to the elements, especially those abrasive sea-salt gusts funnelling through the narrowing Mersey estuary, acting like sandpaper on exposed timber surfaces. I know I implied earlier that in the interests of authenticity I needed to exercise restraint in the weathering department, but yet again I find myself in contradiction. Sometimes you just gotta go with the flow (my excuse and I'm sticking to it).
See for yourselves, WTers.
Glued with UHU that took an eternity to cure, and shot in natural light.
Glued with slow setting epoxy resin and shot under LED lighting (frames same colour as those in previous shot) and just placed in frames for orientation.
As I said, Dad would probably have been right, but for once I was having fun.
Best wishes,
jonte
Heather Kay
Western Thunderer
Fun, in the end, is what it's all about. I can say, without fear or favour, some of your frames match rather too well to some of the frames around my house!