Templot Plug Track Developments

John Walker

Active Member
Simon

Unfortunately Colron don't seem to produce their solvent based dyes any more. They moved to water soluble which doesn't soak in as well. I have some Rustin's solvent based to try. I also have some potassium permanganate crystals which were recommended to me.

Regards
John Walker
 

Hayfield1

Active Member
Simon

Unfortunately Colron don't seem to produce their solvent based dyes any more. They moved to water soluble which doesn't soak in as well. I have some Rustin's solvent based to try. I also have some potassium permanganate crystals which were recommended to me.

Regards
John Walker
John

Good morning and how are you?

A thought has just crossed my mind, watching both Will from the repair workshop and some of the restorers on Salvage Hunters when colour matching new wood to old they start with spirit based shellac (possibly thinned down ?) then add dry pigment (powder).

Why not follow a similar process in find a suitable spirit based mixture as a base coat then add other pigments into small amounts of base colour ?

Not being either an artist or a restorer I have no idea where to look or what to buy, over to those in the know
 

Hayfield1

Active Member
I dont know whether this is a good quality product, or whether it is gloss, but its a start


How about this for pigments and if its what's required what colours would one need ?

 

martin_wynne

Western Thunderer
Simon

Unfortunately Colron don't seem to produce their solvent based dyes any more. They moved to water soluble which doesn't soak in as well. I have some Rustin's solvent based to try. I also have some potassium permanganate crystals which were recommended to me.

Regards
John Walker
@John Walker @Hayfield1

Hi John,

Try soaking a dried used tea-bag (or several) in a little IPA (isopropyl alcohol, as used in washing resin prints). Leave for an hour or two, stirring occasionally. (Unused tea-bags seem to take longer. Used tea-bags can be dried in the oven.) Adjust time and number of tea-bags to suit required depth of colour.

Produces a brownish spirit stain which soaks in instantly and can be built up with repeated application. Low-cost. :)

To my eye most stained ply timbers look too dark, unless you are modelling freshly relaid mainline track. Most timbers sun-bleach to a lightish grey colour, and can vary a lot from one to the next:


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Martin.
 

martin_wynne

Western Thunderer
Yes, more difficult to do in CAD. The four are different, but having different orientations on adjacent chairs would be more work that I care for!

And they are quite small…
@simond

Hi Simon,

Just to say that the GWR used through-bolts with nuts on top only on plain track.

In pointwork they used flat-top square-head chair screws inserted from above instead (in the same chairs). They were used directly in the chair holes, unlike REA chairs where a raised boss and tapered ferrule is used.


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(screws!)

This means that strictly speaking for GWR S1 ordinary chairs you need 2 versions of the CAD -- one with the end of the bolt protruding through the nut, and one with a flat top. :)

cheers,

Martin.
 

Phil O

Western Thunderer
I guess they didn’t need to tighten the fang bolt nuts very often. I’d have been a grumpy granger if I’d had to carry two spanners…

Simon,

If the chair nuts need tightening, the sleeper or timber is well past its useful life.

To remove the chairs turn the sleeper/timber upside down and split it through the bolt holes and cut the bolts.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
@simond

Hi Simon,

Just to say that the GWR used through-bolts with nuts on top only on plain track.

In pointwork they used flat-top square-head chair screws inserted from above instead (in the same chairs). They were used directly in the chair holes, unlike REA chairs where a raised boss and tapered ferrule is used.


index.php

(screws!)

This means that strictly speaking for GWR S1 ordinary chairs you need 2 versions of the CAD -- one with the end of the bolt protruding through the nut, and one with a flat top. :)

cheers,

Martin.
thanks Martin,

alternatively, a scalpel will remove the tip of the fang bolt leaving a flat square head!

the 95R chairs are intended for plain track - I'm hoping that by the time I need to do the P&C, you'll have programmed GW chairs within Templot :)

cheers
Simon
 
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