Mr Dunkers here's the offending conduit (the curvy silver pipe in the middle of the picture), picture taken at the asbestos stripping yard showing the door to the passenger compartment
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I think that during the midlife overhaul they had this door fitted as I have found other drawings with a long seat next on the other side of this bulkhead
Col
Thanks for the picture - missed your post earlier this week.
I can confirm from personal usage that originally the long seat went right across the carriage, and I remember the surprise when I saw a doorway appearing after refurbishment.
I think scratch might have been an option but getting the Mk2 shape right would have been a bit of a bugger.
I realise that. I wondered if it might make sense to simply remove the whole side (one at a time) and fit some plastic card into the resulting aperture.
This is not going to be easy to describe, but I will give it a try...
Keep the ends as well as the roof, and form a piece of (say) 60 thou or 80 to match the body curvature, or laminate some pieces together and file/wet and dry them to the correct profile. Don't worry about getting a dead smooth finish, but make the piece slightly longer than the aperture.
Where there is to be windows, cut a rectangular hole slightly bigger than the final window.
Put a top layer of 20 thou onto this which has the window apertures carefully cut out to size and shape, and door outlines scribed to about 10 thou deep. Cut another piece of 20 thou to match this in outline, but do not join it to the other pieces: this can be painted a sort of fake wood colour (from memory) on one side: this side will become the interior of the body.
Leave to harden thoroughly, under a weight.
When fully hardened, carefully remove a little bit from each end, to get the side to be a nice fit into the aperture.
Cement this into the aperture of the body shell. Leave to fully harden, then apply filler, leave to hard, and file smooth.
When the work on the body is completed, and it is painted, cut some glazing material of the same thickness as the main body insert, to sizes to match the windows (IIRC, you only have 3 to worry about, so careful cutting out out of the rectangular holes and of the glazing should speed things up). Some of the droplights can be cut shorter, to represent open windows. Cement the inner side in place.
Glazing trapped and providing there is not too long a time interval between all these processes, there is a triple laminate which should avoid distortion over the years.
Does that make sense? The idea was to create more or less flush glazing.