7mm The Derby Line - Rolling Stock Gladiator Crab
I may have a spare from our Q7 kits...............
David
dibateg
Western Thunderer
I'd be interested to see that David!
Whilst the loco awaits some parts, I thought I'd tackle the tender.
All etched in nickel silver and interestingly says 'S Barnfield 3mm society' on them!
Plenty of bearings in the kit ... just in case!
The kit came with 2 sets of axlebox and spring castings, smaller ones ( presumably NER ) and some more chunky ones, I'm guessing the LNER replacements with a flatter axlebox cover. However the latter had some chunky bosses on the back, so I resorted to the pillar drill and a taper reamer to open the holes in the frames out. The spring assemblies also have some mounting bosses, so that is handy. There should be pairs of pull rods either side of the wheels, but to make them short free would mean spacing them a ridiculous distance apart. I've an idea forming utilising some plastic strip....
Whilst the loco awaits some parts, I thought I'd tackle the tender.
All etched in nickel silver and interestingly says 'S Barnfield 3mm society' on them!
Plenty of bearings in the kit ... just in case!
The kit came with 2 sets of axlebox and spring castings, smaller ones ( presumably NER ) and some more chunky ones, I'm guessing the LNER replacements with a flatter axlebox cover. However the latter had some chunky bosses on the back, so I resorted to the pillar drill and a taper reamer to open the holes in the frames out. The spring assemblies also have some mounting bosses, so that is handy. There should be pairs of pull rods either side of the wheels, but to make them short free would mean spacing them a ridiculous distance apart. I've an idea forming utilising some plastic strip....
Your wish is my command..........
Flat on top, curved under. Doesn't have the rivet detail or chequerboard top, but the shape is satisfying.
As it's cast into the step I'd think that very highly unlikely. The allen-head csk bolts however...
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Of course! Hoping for the lubricators soon.
David
dibateg
Western Thunderer
The crosshaft is a little undersize, but it's not really that visible. It's populated with various castings, mostly from the spare brake fittings drawer. I've been building 7mm locos for 18 years or so now, so one accumalates plenty of left over castings and spare parts. The neat brake rod clevises are coach truss ones from CPL. I didn't bother with a brake cylinder - it can't be seen. In retrospect I would have cut the 'tabs' for the axle bearings down, they are a bit visible through the side frame holes.
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Good idea Dave - but a recipie for me to make more mess, I'll have to live with this one.....
There wasn't a scoop etch in this kit - but strangely I had exactly the same etch from Four Track that has been in the drawer for a decade..
Then came the jollly task of adding the tender flares. Etched in Nickel silver, they were always going to be a challenge - even half etched. I experimented on some scrap first, and they had to be annealed to get half a chance of doing anything with them. The only way I could think of getting a curve in them was to use a 'V' block and do them in sections. I tried a vice, rod & mouse mat - that didn't do anything!
They are on - not the neatest job, but they pushed my skills to the limit....
There wasn't a scoop etch in this kit - but strangely I had exactly the same etch from Four Track that has been in the drawer for a decade..
Then came the jollly task of adding the tender flares. Etched in Nickel silver, they were always going to be a challenge - even half etched. I experimented on some scrap first, and they had to be annealed to get half a chance of doing anything with them. The only way I could think of getting a curve in them was to use a 'V' block and do them in sections. I tried a vice, rod & mouse mat - that didn't do anything!
They are on - not the neatest job, but they pushed my skills to the limit....
dibateg
Western Thunderer
I felt the detail of the tender front could be enhanced, so scratched up the coal door. There is a vertical hinged latch, which hooks into holes above the coal door. I also added the step from some 'T' bar - it's probably a little undersize. Bracket, for what I'm guessing is the water valve.. I'm not sure there was an upturn behind the tool boxes, but it will be hidden.. Coal raves soldered on, but not cleaned up yet. I dispensed with the 2 part division plates and just used the think one and added soft brass half round wire for the beading. It's going to be fun putting the doors on...
Rear view - probably another day's work in it yet to add the detail..
Rear view - probably another day's work in it yet to add the detail..
dibateg
Western Thunderer
Some commercial work for a change, back to 4mm scale :-
Passing across my workbench yesterday:
60111 - whilst checking the back to backs I managed to knock a smoke deflector off, three of the tiny plastic spigots broke off! So repaired with 0.5mm brass wire and superglue.
Problems with the early Hornby L1 have been well documented - the crabbing pony truck, mazak rot - all four L1s tested derailed in the same place on a curved point. Guiding wires will be added - and spot the distorting rear bogie... Mazak rot well under way...
Whilst looking at those problems I noticed the union link hanging down, the pin off the crossedhead drop link had fractured - is the crosshead mazak too? I drilled out the gudgeon pin and replaced it with a 14BA screw, I could then bolt a new brass droplink there, secured in place with superglue. the motion doesn't come apart easily, the lifting arms are secured in place with a plastic 'rivet' so I drilled those out and replaced with 14BA screws, so that I could get it apart to get the crosshead out.
Somewhat easier to repair was this kit built A1/1 - Crownline/Hammet. The RH crosshead was dropping out as there was no inner lower slidebar to retain it. The fix, was an 'L' shaped length of 0.6mm N/s wire with the short leg soldered to the underside of the slidebars right next to the cylinder. You can just about see the end of it to the rear of the crosshead.
And ready to return to service after a much easier fix ( to my mind ) than RTR!
Passing across my workbench yesterday:
60111 - whilst checking the back to backs I managed to knock a smoke deflector off, three of the tiny plastic spigots broke off! So repaired with 0.5mm brass wire and superglue.
Problems with the early Hornby L1 have been well documented - the crabbing pony truck, mazak rot - all four L1s tested derailed in the same place on a curved point. Guiding wires will be added - and spot the distorting rear bogie... Mazak rot well under way...
Whilst looking at those problems I noticed the union link hanging down, the pin off the crossedhead drop link had fractured - is the crosshead mazak too? I drilled out the gudgeon pin and replaced it with a 14BA screw, I could then bolt a new brass droplink there, secured in place with superglue. the motion doesn't come apart easily, the lifting arms are secured in place with a plastic 'rivet' so I drilled those out and replaced with 14BA screws, so that I could get it apart to get the crosshead out.
Somewhat easier to repair was this kit built A1/1 - Crownline/Hammet. The RH crosshead was dropping out as there was no inner lower slidebar to retain it. The fix, was an 'L' shaped length of 0.6mm N/s wire with the short leg soldered to the underside of the slidebars right next to the cylinder. You can just about see the end of it to the rear of the crosshead.
And ready to return to service after a much easier fix ( to my mind ) than RTR!
dibateg
Western Thunderer
The back of the B16 tender, there is a hefty rivetted beam between the frames. It seems there was a variety of pick up domes, rounded and square edged, the latter being more common ( original ?) .
I'm awaiting on quite a few extra parts now, but there are still a few jobs that can be dealt with.. The cab roof is obviously not fixed yet!
I'm awaiting on quite a few extra parts now, but there are still a few jobs that can be dealt with.. The cab roof is obviously not fixed yet!
dibateg
Western Thunderer
It was never my idea to fit working inside motion in this model, but it did look a bit empty between the frames. I found in the loco motion box a set of dummy Stephensons gear left over from a David Andrews 2P. Yes, I know it should have three sets, but I only have two and at least there is something there now. the dummy big end came from the same fret, and is on a piece of tube which clamps on the the axle in the same manner as a final drive gear.. Not much can be seen when the body is on apart from the middle crank whirling round, I shall lie and say it's fully working!
tomburnham
Active Member
For future reference you should note that the North Eastern Railway used circular inside cranks. If it helps, and it's not too late, here's two extracts from the General Arrangement for the Class S3 (B16) showing the valve gear.
Tom.
